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27,189 articles · 2,094 videos found · page 12 of 977

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MB&F;’s Affordable M.A.D.1 is Now Slimmer and Swiss SJX Watches
MB&F; ’s Affordable M.A.D.1 Aug 27, 2024

MB&F;’s Affordable M.A.D.1 is Now Slimmer and Swiss

Conceived as an affordable sub-brand of MB&F;, M.A.D. Editions has become a runaway success by making an MB&F;-esque design accessible. Now the concept has been further refined with the M.A.D.1S, where the suffix stands for slimmer, Swiss, and single cylinder. The case is thinner by almost 4 mm, and now contains a Swiss-made movement that indicates the time (approximately) on a single cylinder. Initial thoughts The original M.A.D.1 was a fun watch that was affordable but expensive, and extremely thick at almost 19 mm. The slimmed down version has sleeker proportions, and the same price tag, but offers comparatively better value. The M.A.D.1S is priced at CHF2,900, just like the original version. Like the original, the M.A.D.1S is priced well for a watch with a little bit of the MB&F; magic, but expensive for a watch of its build and movement. However, the M.A.D.1S is comparatively less expensive, and conversely offers a bit more value, because it has a slightly more upscale movement inside. Mad but more wearable Two versions of the M.A.D.1S are available, one with a blue dial and the other in purple. The blue is available to the public, while the purple is only for “Friends & Tribe”, namely associates of the brand and owners of MB&F; watches. Both will be sold via an online raffle, as is convention for the M.A.D. watches. Both editions are otherwise identical, with a case that’s substantially slimmer than the original M.A.D.1. While the original was almost 19 mm high, th...

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Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 27, 2024

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.  

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In-Depth: The Prestige and Patents of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Arguably Aug 16, 2024

In-Depth: The Prestige and Patents of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date

Arguably the most prestigious Rolex wristwatch, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was introduced in 1956 and has only ever been available in precious metals – with the exception of a handful of prototypes in stainless steel. From its beginnings the Day-Date had a particular significance in the Rolex catalogue. The brand’s advertising from the 1960s for the Day-Date carried the phrase “Men who guide the destinies of the world of the world wear Rolex watches”. It was also during this time that the now-familiar “President” nickname for the model emerged when American president Lyndon Johnson, along with several of his successors, were photographed wearing a Day-Date. The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date ref. 6611 of 1956 The Day-Date was the first wristwatch to indicate the date as well as day of the week spelled out in full, a technical feat at the time. In the near-seven decades since, the Day-Date has remained consistent in terms of design and function: the date sits in a window at three o’clock, while the day is displayed within the arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock. Though the dial layout has stayed the same, the mechanics behind the display have been refined and improved substantially over the years. Today’s models – namely the Day-Date 36 and Day-Date 40 – are powered by the cal. 3255. The movement boasts all of Rolex’s technical innovations, along with a double instantaneous calendar display, where both the date and day indicators jump instantaneously and s...

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Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Continuing Aug 9, 2024

Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art

Continuing its recent run of watches dedicated to great art and ancient cultures, Vacheron Constantin (VC) now turns to the decorative symbolism of Imperial China. The Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols “Eternal Flow” and “Moonlight Slivers” are a pair of elaborately decorated watches inspired by 海水江崖纹, or “seawater, river, and cliff”, a highly symbolic motif employed during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Executed in a variety of decorative techniques, the dials of the Métiers d’Art pair are subtle reinterpretations of the traditional motif. “Eternal Flow” is rendered in vivid cloisonné enamel and the more striking of the duo. “Moonlight Slivers”, on the other hand, is set with diamonds but presents a more restrained, stylised take on the pattern. “Eternal Flow” Initial thoughts VC has a good track record at reproducing art on its watch dials. The Les Cabinotiers “Thunder God” and “Wind God” is a prime example of that. The Tribute to Traditional Symbols are similarly successful, though each of the pair is distinct from the other. “Moonlight Slivers” is almost low-key with its dark blue enamel, though the diamond setting gives it a bit of glamour. It also feels more modern. At a distance the motif appears almost geometric and abstract, particularly in this monochromatic execution. “Moonlight Slivers” In contrast, “Eternal Flow” is full Technicolour with the Imperial robe motif in all its glory. It’s almo...

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3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion Quill & Pad
Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me Aug 5, 2024

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion

Rolex had never called out to Joshua Munchow as a watch that he must have or that would be the pinnacle of his collection. He thinks that this is because of the downsides to it being the most widely known watch brand in the world: forgeries and overexposure abound. So what is it about 2015's Rolex Day-Date 40 that turned him into a convert? Read on to find out.

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Introducing: The Second Version Of The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler Fratello
Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler Jul 23, 2024

Introducing: The Second Version Of The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler

You may have missed it, but last week would have marked Clive Cussler’s 93rd birthday. The famous adventure author wrote over 80 books and sold over 100,000,000 copies before passing away in 2020. Both Cussler and Dirk Pitt, his most famous protagonist, were known to wear Doxa watches. This spawned a fruitful relationship with the […] Visit Introducing: The Second Version Of The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler to read the full article.

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Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain Almost Jul 22, 2024

Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain

Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...

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First Look – The Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler, the Second Chapter of the Story Monochrome
Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Jul 15, 2024

First Look – The Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler, the Second Chapter of the Story

Nothing does more for a brand’s image than having a famous name spontaneously endorse your product. Although Doxa was not the first Swiss brand to produce a professional dive watch, it was the first to introduce a dive watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel to ensure safe no-decompression ascents in 1967. Doxa’s SUB 300, with […]

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First Look – The New and Affordable Certina DS-1 Day-Date Monochrome
Certina DS-1 Day-Date Certina’s robust Jul 12, 2024

First Look – The New and Affordable Certina DS-1 Day-Date

Certina’s robust and affordably priced DS-1 is a descendant of the brand’s pioneering DS (Double Security) concept introduced in 1959. Back then, much like a turtle’s protective shell, the DS concept was engineered to enhance the resilience, reliability, and water resistance of watches against external threats by incorporating O-ring seals. This versatile and straightforward timepiece […]

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Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat Fratello
Doxa Sub 200T Jun 21, 2024

Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat

Doxa’s Sub 200T is a wonderful underwater companion and underlines the trend toward smaller tool watches. Having debuted just before the start of Watches and Wonders 2024, the Sub 200T was met with broadly positive acclaim. As a truly mid-sized option with a 39mm case diameter and slim profile, it rounds out Doxa’s cushion-cased offerings […] Visit Testing The Doxa Sub 200T In Its Natural Underwater Habitat to read the full article.

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Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Jun 17, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”

The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...

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De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References Worn & Wound
De Bethune Launches Two New DB Jun 14, 2024

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References

A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand.  De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...

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Hands-On: Rolex Day-Date With A White Dial And Deconstructed Roman Numerals Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Jun 5, 2024

Hands-On: Rolex Day-Date With A White Dial And Deconstructed Roman Numerals

When I assembled my list of favorites from this year’s Watches and Wonders, I didn’t even mention the Rolex Day-Date with the new white dial and deconstructed Roman numerals. Honestly, I didn’t think much of it because it’s way out of my league budget-wise, and it seems like such a small update that it didn’t […] Visit Hands-On: Rolex Day-Date With A White Dial And Deconstructed Roman Numerals to read the full article.

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De Rijke & Co. Partners with Illustrator Guy Allen on a Trio of Limited Editions Inspired by the Amalfi Coast Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co Partners Jun 4, 2024

De Rijke & Co. Partners with Illustrator Guy Allen on a Trio of Limited Editions Inspired by the Amalfi Coast

Over the last few years, De Rijke & Co. has built out an unlikely niche within the watch world: making highly desirable character watches featuring the beloved “Miffy” character, a staple of children’s books in the Netherlands, the brand’s home country. After the launch of the first successful Miffy moonphase, there have been several additional variants released in short order, offering colorful takes on a whimsical subject. I think most would probably agree that this represented a somewhat unexpected turn in the life of De Rijke. When we first encountered them, it was as a maker of a clever driver’s watch, with a unique case that allows the dial to be rotated within a cage to suit a driver’s needs. What’s more, De Rijke has always offered customers the ability to customize their watches to a high degree, allowing for a truly bespoke experience. The Miffy watches have been fun, but if you knew the brand before, they felt almost like a diversion.  De Rijke never stopped making those custom pieces of course, so it would be unfair to ask “What happened to this brand?” or something similarly dramatic. They haven’t gone anywhere, but clearly took an opportunity to capitalize on a watch concept that became a bit of a sensation with a very specific crowd. But now, for the first time since I’ve been writing about them, De Rijke is back with a new series that is not Miffy based, but still has a sense of that whimsy. The new entries in the Amalfi series are ba...

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