475 articles · 26 videos found · page 12 of 17
Time+Tide
Here at Time+Tide we have a soft spot for smaller brands that are built on passion. Oak & Oscar definitely fits that bill. Chase Fancher (the man behind the brand) has made a series of retro-ish classics with loads of thoughtful details - the sort of details appreciated by true believers. These details are still … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oak & Oscar Humboldt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
TAG Heuer kicks off its worldwide Globetrotter exhibition, in Singapore, in the presence of Patrick Dempsey and Formula One racer, Max Verstappen.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Pay that $2500 dental bill? Or just get a Grand Seiko Quartz and call it a day? This is just one of the many questions we tackle in this week's episode! Plus Kaz is going strong with his #watchfast with the Casio MDV106 dive watch.
Time+Tide
Let’s get this out of the way early on. Does the Girard-Perregaux Laureato share some visual similarities with other well-known luxury steel sports watches? Sure, but we can easily think of half a dozen watches that fit that particular bill. AP and Patek don’t have a monopoly on ’70s design. And make no mistake, the Laureato … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Our picks of the Gentleman's essentials from Kevin Seah Bespoke featuring Kevin Seah Bespoke, W. Bill, Thomas Mason, Hat of Cain, Edward Green and Roger Smith.
Revolution
This year marks MB&F;’s 10th anniversary, and to commemorate the milestone, the brand will present a series of anniversary pieces throughout the year with the theme ”A creative adult is a child who survived”. The first piece is an impressive mechanical table clock called Melchior. Why a robot named Melchior? MB&F; founder Max Büsser explains: […]
Deployant
C3H5N3O9: what a curious name for a watch brand. The chemist amongst us will recognise this as formula fo Tri Nitro Glycerine…or dynamite. A horological experiment born out of the wickedly curious minds of Max Bussier, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, this playful, whimsical and immensely interesting watch is based on the principle of theRead More
Deployant
Max Bussier…the man and the company which bears his name – Max Bussier and Friends, is always entertaing to watch, and his products always pushing the envelope. The Legacy One created quite a stir when it was introduced two years ago, and the followup, with the same team of Mojon, Voutilainen and Giroud with BussierRead More
Deployant
The Opus series from Harry Winston was a project started when Max Busser was CEO at Harry Winston. One of the remarkable watches he commissioned during his tenure there was the Opus 3…a very special digital, mechanical watch to be made by Vianney Halter. Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter A watch which wasRead More
Deployant
MBF…enigmatic, provocative. But always with an edge and a story to tell. Max Busser himself is full of energy, and creativity. I covered the HM4 series with interest in these pages, and we now come to the concluding episode of this outrageous timepiece. I am amazed by Max’s creativity. A small change here, a twistRead More
Deployant
The long awaited HM5 by MB&F; is now revealed! These are one of the first photographs and commentary to reach the world…Max presented this watch to Singapore collectors on Dec 4, about 8pm, while the same is being presented across the world in the form of a press release about the same time. I managedRead More
Deployant
Max Bussier’s MBF is rather innovative…that’s an understatement. The watches coming out from his stable is truly stretches the imagination, and the wonderful stories he can tell to describe them equally wonderful. It is with great interest that I can now present the HM3 Frog Moonmachine. A variant of the HM3 Frog, with its bulgingRead More
Deployant
Max Bussser is an unusual talent in watchmaking. Not a watchmaker by trade, but makes watches for a living…His imagination is wonderful…almost child like, but always totally rooted in true business sense, however fantastical the idea. MB&F; HM4 Flying Panda for Only Watch 2011 In support of Only Watch 2011, he came up with theRead More
Deployant
On Monday I showed the beautiful rose gold final version of the Jaeger LeCoultre Gyro Tourbillon. Today is another, arguably even more interesting, and certainly more complicated JLC timepiece. The aptly named Grande Tradition Grand Complication. The dial is an amazingly beautiful blue, engraved with the stars and firmament, the flying tourbillon makes its wayRead More
WatchAdvice
The retro-futuristic lines of the King Seiko VANAC give it character, but does the titanium frame elevate it to modernity? Let’s find out! What We Love: Angular, geometric case Strong but lightweight presence Finishing makes titanium interesting What We Don’t: Accuracy still a touch behind modern standards Thickness could have been toned down Is loud design ostentatious? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 “A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one” is one of the most commonplace sentiments of modern life. It governs almost everything, from the clothes we wear and the careers we pursue to the books we read, the media we consume, and the food we eat. In this chapter of modern watchmaking, the sentiment is much the same. We love a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, removing the burden of decision from our already overcomplicated lives. But is the burden of choice really such a bad thing? Is it truly more valuable to have broader appeal than a deeper one? Some say no. Thus, there’s been an uptick in maximalist design principles throughout the watch world. Being good at everything doesn’t have to be the only selling point anymore; Rather, watch designs are turning back towards specialisation in form and function to make for a more compelling case. That’s exactly what Seiko did when they revived the King Seiko VANAC collection in 2025. A model line d...
Deployant
Discover the Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Guilloché, with a hand-guilloché blue dial, Chronode-based FL T01 calibre, 25-piece edition and CHF 26,000 price.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...
WristBuzz
Green or blue, gray gold, 15 pieces each, CHF 129,000, and 238 inward angles finished by hand
WristBuzz
The Swiss micro-brand goes harder with its ceramic sports watch, adding motorsport-inspired red accents, a matte black case, and a COSC-certified movement to the mix.
SJX Watches
The Maltese cross is a ubiquitous device found inside all sorts of mechanical movements. Originally devised to limit a mainspring’s working range, it also makes an appearance in perpetual calendars and unconventional jumping hours complications. The elegant mechanism is both simple and clever, warranting a closer look. From cross to mechanics The Maltese cross mechanism gets its name from the heraldic symbol adopted by the Order of St. John, and remains associated with the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. While the original cross has four arms, the Maltese cross as a horological component commonly features five arms or more. Collectors also recognise the cross as Vacheron Constantin’s logo, adopted in 1880 in tribute to the horological component. Today, Vacheron Constantin also incorporates the cross into its tourbillon cage and even some decorative screw heads. Screw for the column wheel fashioned with a Maltese cross head inside the Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200. The component itself is a masterfully simple example of geometry and mechanics. The system allows a true 1-to-any transmission ratio, since the driving component only has one tooth which makes the cross-shaped wheel advance one single step every revolution. For comparison, a 1:5 transmission ratio can be accomplished by a pinion with ten leaves paired to a wheel with 50 teeth, but the motion transmitted would then be continuous. A Maltese cross still makes one full revolution after the driver turns five...
Hodinkee
It's not often that a microbrand makes a complete pivot in design language. In fact, I'd argue that it's rarely advisable. Once you've built an audience around your existing design codes, introducing a product with virtually zero overlap with what your customers already love is a massive gamble. But NYC-based microbrand Wren, created by Craig Karger of Wrist Enthusiast, has taken that risk today with a completely new design called the Wren Vessel. Last year, I spent some time with the Wren Diver 38 models, which stuck to the brand's singular design language centered around vintage dive watches. Not the most groundbreaking concept in the microbrand space, even if the watches are impressively specced for the price point. But I think it's quite interesting to see that the brand's ambitions are much higher than what it's currently offering, and today's new watch marks the next step for Wren. For this new watch, the brand teams up with designer Max Resnick, a watch designer with a background in automotive design who's done work for other microbrands like VPC, Traska, and Anoma. The final result feels quite original, despite the high-level concept of a modern, integrated sports watch being explored by many brands in many other ways. Wren logo aside, the Vessel shares almost no similarities with the rest of the brand's designs. The Vessel brings a new, integrated(ish) bracelet design that feels almost retrofuturistic in its silhouette, with a generally tonneau shape but executed ...
SJX Watches
The Jacob & Co. Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater returns with a transparent red mineral crystal dial and an updated movement, 12 years after the original introduced chiming complications to the brand. Combining a wearable case with a clear view of the striking racks, it makes a convincing addition to the more mechanically focused side of the collection. Initial thoughts After 12 years of minute repeaters and musical wristwatches, it’s easy to take Jacob & Co.’s presence in the category for granted. Working closely with external specialists, the brand has developed an impressive portfolio of striking watches in a remarkably short time. That repertoire encompasses the decimal repeater of the Twin Turbo Furious, the three-gong carillon of the Astronomia Maestro, and the combination of a music box and minute repeater in the Opera Godfather. These different approaches to sound illustrate the breadth of the brand’s ambitions and its relationships with specialist movement makers. We recently sat down with Jacob & Co. chief executive Benjamin Arabov to discuss how smaller watches like the Palatial have helped broaden the brand’s clientele. Mr Arabov admitted that he is affectionately known by some of his staff as the “size dictator”, due to his insistence on reducing dimensions while retaining the mechanical creativity. While the brand still makes a number of extremely large watches, the increase in smaller, more wearable options has attracted a new clientele...
Monochrome
A young microbrand based in Paris, Inercy started out with a flying tourbillon at a price that makes the complication accessible to a much wider audience. Introduced in 2023, the One was a 42mm watch with a compass-inspired dial and a flying tourbillon. And, tagged at around 1,300 euros, it offered something spectacular for the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Filippo Loreti takes a swing at accessible high horology with the Celestial Tourbillon, pairing an automatic tourbillon with a blue aventurine dial.
WristBuzz
MB&F; took their debut dress watch and covered it in stones. Here's why that actually makes more sense than it sounds.
WristBuzz
Three pastel dials give the brand's quirky handless regulator a softer, more wearable personality - without touching what makes it tick
WristBuzz
An inclined flying tourbillon, carbon construction, and a flame-kissed dial that makes this DC6 variant unlike anything else on the market right now.
Hodinkee
What We Know If H. Moser is guaranteed to do anything, it's to surprise us. A watch made out of cheese. A watch inspired by the Reebok "Pump." Those are easier to process because they're fun and a bit silly. But when Moser signed a deal to be a sponsor of Alpine's Formula 1 team, it was even more surprising to me. That's a serious sponsorship for a brand that makes far fewer than 5,000 watches a year and doesn't charge Richard Mille prices. But Moser is taking full advantage of the platform and turning out very sporty watches, including this new collaboration. This isn't the first collaboration between the brands; it began with a surprising smartwatch for the pit crew, paired with a skeletonized chronograph. Pierre Gasly (one of Alpine's drivers) also got his own limited edition. But this one takes the automotive inspiration in a different direction: lightweight and with all the Alcantara you could want (maybe even more). While Moser has done a Streamliner tourbillon in ceramic before, that watch came with a full dial and a ceramic bracelet. The 40mm by 12.8mm case is made of anthracite grey ceramic, but now it comes with an integrated light blue Alcantara strap, a synthetic microfiber material with a soft, suede-like texture. If you're into cars, you've run into this material a lot. Unlike the previous release, this is the first skeleton-flying tourbillon version of the Streamliner, made in ceramic. Powered by the HMC 814, the watch has blue-toned plates with diamond...
Monochrome
Named after the illustrious 18th-century watchmaker Charles Leroy, L.Leroy made its return over the past couple of years with high-end complications such as the Osmior Bal du Temps Tourbillon Minute Repeater or the Elyor Flying Tourbillon. Yet, the first watch heralding this renaissance was a unique piece combining a minute repeater and a tourbillon that was presented […]
WristBuzz
A hand-wound monopusher with 1930s soul and a very modern calibre, dressed in blue or silver
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