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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Dec 6, 2019

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure Review

Zenith introduced the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure as part of the unveiling for their 2019 Baselworld line up. The Chronograph was released alongside the Type 20 Extra Special Adventure which is the three-hand layout of the Pilot model.  Zenith does have a vibrant history with pilot models, which stretches back to the early 19th century. The Zenith Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef released around 1939 is a timepiece that closely resembles the current Pilot Type 20 editions. The iconic cathedral hands with the Gothic-font Arabic numerals and the large knurled bezel have all been carried over from the original Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef model. The pilot models only lasted up until 1960, where Zenith stopped production of their aviation watches bar one or two models so that the brand could more solely focus on racing chronographs.  In 2010 however, the brand came back to its aviation pedigree and once again started the manufacturing of pilots watches, which was when the modern Pilot Type 20 collection was born. It’s great to see a design of a watch remain unchanged for almost eight decades and shows how true to their history Zenith are.  Zenith has given the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure a more 21st century modern and urban look. Typically when thinking urban colours or colours of nature, one is drawn to the likes of green and brown. Zenith has utilized these colours extensively throughout the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure. The 45mm casing has been produce...

Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” Sep 16, 2019

Sneak Peek: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”

On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...

A Long Overdue Encounter With The Impressive Sinn U50 Dive Watch Fratello
Sinn U50 Dive Watch Sinn 4 days ago

A Long Overdue Encounter With The Impressive Sinn U50 Dive Watch

Sinn has no shortage of great watches. That became clear again last weekend at the brand’s stand at the WatchTime show in Düsseldorf, Germany. The big news was the new limited-edition 140 A S Anniversary chronograph, and it was a pleasure to try it on. Yet it was far from the only highlight. I was […] Visit A Long Overdue Encounter With The Impressive Sinn U50 Dive Watch to read the full article.

Photo Report: The Watches And Scenes Of Patek Philippe's 2026 Milan Watch Art Grand Exhibition Hodinkee
Patek Philippe s 2026 Milan Watch 4 days ago

Photo Report: The Watches And Scenes Of Patek Philippe's 2026 Milan Watch Art Grand Exhibition

For a few years, the general date for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition has been circled on my calendar. Fall 2026—somewhere in there, I'd have to find a way to visit Milan. I had hoped that I would go as part of my job, of course, but after missing the last exhibition in Tokyo, I knew that, even if I had to go on my own, it would be easier to visit Italy, a place that I feel very attached to thanks to the mentorship of the great Italian collectors and dealers. Luckily, a press preview was in the cards, and now that the event is wrapped up (it ran from October 2 to the 18th), I wanted to bring the experience to those who couldn't attend.  One of the great parts about the Grand Exhibitions, this one being the seventh, is that the brand opens them to the public for free, bringing the history and savoir-faire of watchmaking to a new market at each show. While those of us in the industry get to see things like enameling demonstrations or movement construction as part of our jobs, the Watch Art Grand Exhibition brings that to life for those who aren't as lucky. More than that, Patek Philippe goes so far as to organize school trips from the local market, helping bring the craft to life for children. Patek Philippe's President Thierry Stern and his 24-year-old son Adrien Stern, who has worked at the company for 18 months and was touted (multiple times) by Thierry Stern as his successor alongside his youngest son. Stern repeatedly emphasized that Patek Philippe woul...

Introducing - Meet the TYPE 10 DN, Ressence’s First Oil-Filled Watch with the Proprietary Movement Monochrome
Ressence s First Oil-Filled Watch Oct 16, 2026

Introducing - Meet the TYPE 10 DN, Ressence’s First Oil-Filled Watch with the Proprietary Movement

A few months ago, at Watches and Wonders, Ressence introduced a watch to be seen as a pivotal moment for the brand. It was potentially the most important launch for the independent watchmaker since its creation. Dubbed the TYPE 11, this watch remained very Ressence at first sight… Evolutionary more than radically novel. That was […]

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Oct 10, 2026

Five Watches to See at Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026

The Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano 2026 is a Patek Philippe extravaganza that’s on show until October 18 at CityOval, a restored 1920s sporting complex. Hundreds of timepieces populate the over-30,000 sq ft space, including 99 from the venerable Patek Philippe Museum. But some watches stand out, for reasons ranging from artisanal beauty to historical significance – here’s five worth paying attention to. Starting with the present day are a duo from the Rare Handcrafts collection put together specifically for this event. These are proof that beauty is both rare and expensive – each is a one-off and costs about US$800,000. The first is the Rare Handcrafts Pocket Watch ref. 995/147G-001 “Venetian Cruise” that is literal: the reverse depicts a journey across the waters of Venice from the perspective of a passenger on a runabout, perhaps a Riva. The scene is something of a modern riff on classical painting depicting the entrance to the Grand Canal of Venice. The wood deck of the boat is actually wood – the dial has over 330 pieces of wood forming the marquetry motif. The lake and buildings, which include the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, are in miniature enamel painting. The juxtaposition of techniques and intricacy of the work make this a particularly compelling piece. In contrast, the front of the watch is functional and almost no-frills, yet entirely appropriate. The dial is modelled on the instruments on the dashboard of a boat, explaining the funct...

Not Completely Out Of The Blue: Introducing The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback With Blue Dials Fratello
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 3, 2026

Not Completely Out Of The Blue: Introducing The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback With Blue Dials

A year after Longines debuted the refreshed and resized Spirit Pilot models, four new iterations are touching down. They’re not completely out of the blue. After the black versions, the Longines Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback with blue dials make perfect sense. So do the 39mm cases. The initial black-dial Spirit Pilot and Spirit […] Visit Not Completely Out Of The Blue: Introducing The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback With Blue Dials to read the full article.

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Longines Spirit Pilot Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics)

What We Know Not all of the releases we cover are horological heavy hitters or groundbreaking mechanical inventions. Yes, plenty are, but sometimes a simple new dial color is worth talking about. And in the context of Longines' mighty newsworthy year, with several extremely well-received launches like the Hydroconquest and the Master Collection Monopushers already in the recent catalog, a new colorway for the Spirit Pilot and Pilot Flyback still feels worth discussing. The new time-only Spirit Pilot in blue.Image, courtesy Longines. The second iteration of these two watches, since its update last year, introduces a matte blue dial (and a glossy blue ceramic bezel insert on the chronograph). At a high level, that's kind of it. But with the change from a gilt-style look, swapping the golden accents of the applied numerals, chapter ring chamfer, and printing, this is the first time the latest generation of Spirit Pilot feels like a decidedly modern product. Yes, you lose a little bit of the vintage charm, but the new versions are not replacing those "gilt" editions, so now you have the same models in two very different aesthetic contexts. I won't spend too much time on specs because they remain unchanged—the time-only Spirit Pilot is 39mm by 11.5mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.2mm, and the Flyback chronograph is 39.5mm by 13.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm. The time-only model features the automatic L888.4 caliber, which is COSC-certified and offers a 72-hour power reserve with...

Introducing - The New Ressence Art Watch Type 9 x Jules Wittock Monochrome
Ressence Art Watch Type 9 Sep 17, 2026

Introducing - The New Ressence Art Watch Type 9 x Jules Wittock

Founded in 2010 by industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, indie brand Ressence stands out from the crowd with its original and contemporary way of displaying time. Like planets orbiting the Sun, time circles around the dial thanks to the brand’s patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). For the brand’s latest Art Watch, Ressence has teamed up […]

This New Hamilton Field Watch Has a Cosmic Story, but the Dial Is the Real Hook Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hamilton Field Watch Has Sep 5, 2026

This New Hamilton Field Watch Has a Cosmic Story, but the Dial Is the Real Hook

Hamilton has returned to the 38mm Khaki Field Murph with another variation, and this time the familiar Interstellar watch is getting considerably more color. The new Murph pairs the existing 38mm platform with a textured blue dial that darkens toward black at its perimeter. Hamilton says the dial was inspired by the glowing ionized gases surrounding an interstellar comet. If you ask me, that explanation feels secondary to the simpler reality: someone decided the Murph would look good in blue. I think they were probably right.