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The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed Dec 10, 2024

The Highly Anticipated Omega Speedmaster Pilot Has Landed

One of the cool things about the Omega Speedmaster is that it can truly be just about any watch it needs to be. It’s the Moonwatch, of course, but it’s also a racing chronograph, a dressy chronograph, a chronograph inspired by WWII era military watches, and it can even be a plastic toy. That, I think, is what makes it “iconic,” an overused word if there ever was one in our trade, but one that nonetheless applies perfectly to the Speedmaster. It’s also, from time to time, a pilot’s watch, and Omega’s newest release, part of a late-in-the-year drip of new product that has the brand positioned as one of the big winners of 2024, is a Speedmaster that is purpose built for the skies in a way we rarely see the Speedy outside of Omega’s quartz offerings.  The new Speedmaster Pilot, as it is known, has been the subject of speculation for much of this year. Leaked images of the watch on the wrist of US military pilots generated a great deal of discussion on the forums and Instagram, and our friends at Fratello provided a great overview of everything that was known about the Speedmaster “Flight Qualified” back in September. That watch (the one seen in the leaked images) appears to be made for military personnel only. The one seen here can be thought of as the civilian version. It differs somewhat in aesthetic details, but in terms of specs and features it appears to be identical, and offers its own unique Speedy experience.  This is a two register Speedmaster wi...

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Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 29, 2024

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful

The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...

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Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Nov 28, 2024

Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise

Today, Americans sit down at their Thanksgiving table with their friends and family, and consider all that they’re thankful for. Good health, a warm home, great company, and a delicious meal will top many lists, as they should. But if you’ll allow a quick thought experiment (really, all of this is just one big thought experiment, if you think about it) and narrow the focus of thanks to the watch world, I’d have to say that the singular event of the last few years that I’m most thankful for is whatever transpired during the first meeting between the team at Louis Erard and watchmaker Vianny Halter. It led to a collaboration that launched a thousand other collaborations (slight exaggeration, but maybe not), and brought an affordable indie brand and a Capital I Independent watchmaking legend together in a genuinely interesting way. There’s a compelling case to be made that the first Louis Erard x Vianney Halter collaboration was the seed of many similar LEs to come, from Louis Erard and other brands, so it makes sense that just like that first collab, their second drops on Thanksgiving weekend, bringing one of the most interesting stories in contemporary watches full circle.  While the first collaboration with Halter felt like one of his watches in spirit, the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II takes steps to make the physical object feel more like a watch that could have come out of Halter’s workshop. Using Halter’s iconic Antiqua as inspiratio...

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Rumors Become Reality: Sony Unveils New Flagships Worn & Wound
Nov 26, 2024

Rumors Become Reality: Sony Unveils New Flagships

In late October/early November, I started seeing various “rumor mill” sites teasing some new cameras from Sony. While my initial hope was for something in the Alpha 7 line, it was quickly determined that Sony was updating the A1, their sports/action camera line. This new camera has been dubbed the A1 II, although I’ll frequently refer to it as “Mark 2” to avoid any confusion when comparing models and specs. One of the best ways I’ve found to describe this camera is that it updates the A1 with features from other flagship models, which should position this camera as the “go to” professional camera for both photo and video, if you’re in the market for such a camera. One of the newest features, a first for the Alpha line of cameras, is a “dynamic subject recognition” which allows it to switch between various modes, without any intervention from the photographer. Additionally, the new mark 2 features impressive in-body image stabilization, offering 8.5 stops for the center of the frame. Among the list of features that have carried over, the mark 2 has the newest AI chip which boosts auto focus capabilities (30% improvement in eye detection for animals and humans and a 50% boost in bird eye detection), 30 frames per second image capture, and a 50 MP sensor. It’s my understanding that Sony has targeted wildlife and action photographers with the A1 line, and this mark 2 should suit the needs of these photographers with ease. Just as every watch needs a str...

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Serica’s Parade is the Brand’s Most Ambitious Watch to Date Worn & Wound
Serica s Parade Nov 21, 2024

Serica’s Parade is the Brand’s Most Ambitious Watch to Date

Nearly a year ago I sat in on a conference call with some colleagues and members of the Serica team, who outlined their upcoming slate of 2024 releases. They were particularly excited about a new watch they weren’t yet ready to show us that would debut toward the end of the year, a watch they claimed was a significant departure for them in terms of style, shape, and what enthusiasts have come to expect from Serica over the last five years. While not an anniversary piece, per se, they framed this release as one that celebrates the brand and their unique perspective on the watch world, and now, finally, having seen the new Reference 1174 Parade, their excitement makes a lot of sense. This is an ambitious release, and should go a long way in expanding what the community might expect from Serica going forward.  Serica has built their brand on designing purpose built but elegant tool watches in the style of classics from the midcentury period made by Rolex and countless other historic brands. Their watches tend to have a very clear vintage influence without being too on the nose – they never mimic or borrow completely from any specific classic watch. The same holds true for their first watch in a more formal vernacular. The Parade jumps in the shaped case arms race with a dramatic oval, stepped case in what the brand calls a “Stadium” footprint: straight sides, but with soft, curved corners that suggest both roundness and length simultaneously.  The watch might immedi...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On Impressions of the Tudor FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Worn & Wound
Tudor FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Nov 20, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On Impressions of the Tudor FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

It’s been just a few weeks since the release of the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT, and if one thing is already clear, this latest addition to the FXD lineup is a hit. I already personally know a handful of people who have picked one up, and even if I didn’t, I’ve seen enough wrist shots on Instagram to know that this is going to be an exceedingly popular watch across the board and is likely Tudor’s most successful new release of the year (no small feat considering the consistency and quality of their 2024 releases). The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is also probably the most surprising Tudor release of the year, not because we didn’t expect some version of this to hit the catalog eventually, but because of just how closely Tudor has hewn to the theoretical watch so many collectors have been clamoring for. It’s exceedingly rare for either Tudor or Rolex to give enthusiasts exactly what they’ve been asking for, but with the Pelagos FXD GMT, they’ve done just that. So with all that in mind, I went down to my local AD to spend some hands-on time with Tudor’s latest and greatest. I came away from that visit with two clear thoughts cemented in my mind. The first is that the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT is, without a doubt, the objectively best GMT to come out of either Rolex or Tudor, ever. The second is that I have absolutely no interest in owning one, at least not yet. On paper, the FXD GMT is everything you could want from a Tudor GMT. Here we have an FXD (already possibly the coo...

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Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Oct 23, 2024

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH

The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...

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[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better? Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Sep 13, 2024

[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better?

Tudor has been on a roll this year with new additions to the Black Bay Chronograph collection. Just a few weeks ago, they dropped a new addition to its Black Bay Chronograph lineup: the Blue Boutique Edition. Since I recently picked up the pink dial variant, naturally I wanted to get my hands on the blue and see how it stacks up against my current favorite. Both models bring something unique to the table, but should you go out of your way to pick up either? Let me see if I can encourage some of ya’ll to come to the dark side with me! Starting with the classic (and widely available) Black Bay Chronograph, I had a chance to wear the white panda version a few months ago, and while I appreciated its solid build and good looks, something about it wasn’t quite right. I’ll be the first to admit that I am attracted to the Black Bay Chrono because of its similarities to its “big sister” chronograph, the Rolex Daytona. Since I’m not willing to pay gray market prices and getting one at retail is a grail move in itself, I’ve always considered the BB Chrono a solid alternative.  I was super excited Tudor lent me the white panda as I had never gone hands on with one for more than 5 minutes. Upon putting it on my wrist I was totally down with the look of the thicker chronograph but something just wasn’t sitting right (literally). The oyster bracelet just felt too heavy for my taste and bulky in nature. I also found the lack of on-the-fly adjustability frustrating in the ...

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The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn

Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...

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Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Four New References Aug 9, 2024

Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection

Farer has long been on my radar as a watch brand to trust not only for exceptional quality, but a distinct design language imbued into every new reference the British brand puts out. Take, for instance, the four new references from their latest Cushion Case collection. Already a favorite (or should I say favourite) of Farer fans, the cushion case is at once totally classic and modern. Because of this chameleon-like quailty, Farer has played with the coloring and design of each watch to make four distinct “personalities” to the series.  Let’s explore each model here. The new lineup features four distinct models, each offering a different style while maintaining the signature cushion case silhouette that has become a hallmark of Farer’s design ethos. First up is the Benham, which stands out with its bold cherry red dial, accented by horizontal grooves and a playful baby blue seconds hand on the sub-dial. The brushed bezel adds a sporty touch, complementing the watch’s contemporary look. Inspired by Gertrude Benham, an English explorer and mountaineer, this watch embodies adventure and boldness without veering too much into ostentation. On the other hand, the Mansfield Midnight offers a more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Its deep inky blue dial is highlighted by polished rose gold batons and numerals, further complemented by its rose gold dauphine hands, for a classic look. This watch balances metallic tones with polished rose gold accents, making it a sligh...

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Into the Elements: Hamilton and the Khaki Field Expedition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Jun 28, 2024

Into the Elements: Hamilton and the Khaki Field Expedition

The Hamilton Watch Company stands as a venerable name in horology, renowned not only for its timepieces, but also for its deep-rooted connection to military history. Established in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton quickly made its mark by producing pocket watches that were instrumental in both civilian and military spaces. During World War I, Hamilton became a primary supplier of timepieces to the U.S. Armed Forces, earning accolades for their reliability and design. This role continued into World War II, when Hamilton halted their production for civilian use in order to focus on supplying Allied forces with standard issue wrist watches – watches that became indispensable to soldiers and aviators alike. The company’s commitment to military excellence culminated in the creation of the iconic Hamilton Khaki Field line, a collection that pays homage to its heritage while meeting the demands of modern adventurers in its specifications. Inspired by the rugged timepieces worn by military personnel, the Khaki Field collection blends classic military aesthetics with contemporary functionality. The Khaki Field Expedition launched last year, and their 41mm and 37mm options highlight the brand’s move into inclusive sizing options. These watches are characterized by their durable stainless steel cases, legible dials, and the notable bidirectional compass bezel which allows its users to find their bearings using the sun. Their accessible price point also lends them to be...

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Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original May 30, 2024

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review

While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Glashütte Original can legitimately trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watches for military and civilian customers. Many of the watches produced in the GUB era - spanning the Cold War years from 1951 up to the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 - are largely forgettable, but Glashütte Original, the luxury-watch firm that emerged from the dissolution of the GUB, has cherry-picked the most interesting and memorable of those utilitarian timepieces, produced in the late 1960s and ‘70s, for modern reimagining in its “Spezialist” series. Serving as the base model for the Spezialist models is a single, now-collectible divers’ sport watch from 1969, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was the first dive watch produced in Germany (technically, at the time, East Germany) that met the international ISO 6425 standard. Glashütte Original paid tribute to the fondly rem...

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Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

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Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ Worn & Wound
Sinn HQ May 16, 2024

Celebrating 30 Years of the Lothar Schmidt Era at Sinn HQ

On an unusually warm day in early March, I was invited to visit Sinn headquarters in Frankfurt, Germany. Sinn had prepared a special program including a special exhibition showcasing their technologies over the last 30 years in the main foyer. This was followed by a factory tour, and finally seeing their latest collection.  Most of us are familiar with the origins of Sinn, which all started with Helmut Sinn, who was a flight instructor, and former World War II pilot. The company’s core business under his ownership was the manufacturing of navigation clocks and pilot chronographs. In 1994, certified engineer Lothar Schmidt acquired the company from Helmut Sinn and renamed it to “Sinn Spezialuhren GmbH”. Lothar Schmidt worked previously with IWC, and was also part of Günter Blümlein’s team to revive A. Lange & Söhne. This year Sinn is celebrating 30 years since Mr. Schmidt acquired the company. It was a coincidence that the day of my visit, news broke regarding Mr. Schmidt’s succession plans. He will celebrate his 75th birthday this year, and announced plans to create a foundation similar to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, that will own the shares of Sinn and its subsidiary companies. Mr. Schmidt also owns the SUG casemaker in the famous watchmaking village of Glashütte.  Over the past 30 years, Mr. Schmidt, with his engineering background, has developed several technologies for Sinn watches. In 1995, Ar-Dehumidifying Technology was introduced for the first tim...

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Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

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The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII Fratello
Omega introducing Apr 30, 2024

The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII

It has been a busy few months for Omega, introducing the Apollo 8, Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with a white dial, and the new Speedmaster 38 models. I expect to see some more Speedmaster releases in 2024, not least of all because it is a significant Apollo 11 anniversary. But we should also not forget about […] Visit The April 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Apollo XIII to read the full article.

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Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli Nivada Apr 29, 2024

Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli

Nivada Grenchen’s F77 was a big hit when it was released last year. With an integrated bracelet, 37mm case, and exposed-screw bezel, the F77 captured all the fun of 1970s sports watches. Even better, this was no mere homage: the watch has actual heritage street cred as a reissue of a model produced by Nivada Grenchen in 1977. Now, Nivada Grenchen has leaned even further into that 70s funk, with four new dials for the F77. I got to go hands-on with arguably the funkiest of the bunch: the F77 Lapis Lazuli. The F77 LL keeps all the specs that made the original a hit, but with a new dial crafted entirely from–as you may have guessed from the name–lapis lazuli. The other three dials in the new F77 releases are beautiful, with one dial featuring an ​​anthracite basket-weave pattern, another made of aventurine, and one limited-edition model in meteorite. But despite the attractiveness of the other models, the F77 Lapis Lazuli is the clear standout. The blue of the lapis is vibrant and eye-catching, while the speckled pattern evokes a starry night’s sky. And because it is made of stone, each lapis lazuli dial will be unique. Despite being something of a novelty in today’s market, the lapis lazuli dial is true to the 1970s vibe Nivada Grenchen is trying to capture in the watch. Stone dials had their moment back in that era, and lapis dials are particularly collectable. (Just look up the lapis Rolex Datejust that now sells for tens of thousands of dollars.) Fashion is ...

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Longines Updates the HydroConquest GMT with a New 43mm Option Worn & Wound
Longines Updates Mar 25, 2024

Longines Updates the HydroConquest GMT with a New 43mm Option

Last year, Longines had something of an unexpected hit with their HydroConquest GMT. The dive watch with the “flyer” L844.5 caliber was much discussed in enthusiast circles, and I have my own personal theory as to why. For years, Longines has excelled at being expert curators of their own back catalog, releasing a seemingly never ending string of well considered vintage reissues important releases from their past. They never stopped making watches in a more contemporary style, but they kind of dropped out of focus in recent years. The HydroConquest overhaul, then, was somewhat unexpected, and really stood out in their collection. And it was just weird enough to set itself apart from a market full of divers that kind of all look alike. Now, less than a year after the new HydroConquest saw the light of day, Longines has added new additions to the collection, which surprise in another way altogether.  Announced last week, Longines now makes the HydroConquest GMT in a new larger size, with a case coming in at 43mm. When I saw the press release for this watch, I did a double take. Was there a typo here somewhere? The trend in recent years, Rolex notwithstanding, has been for brands to downsize their sport models to a more universally accepted “medium” size. Think anywhere between 38-40mm. With last year’s HydroConquest GMT coming in at 41mm, I’d have bet the lion’s share of my watch fund that the next iteration of this watch would be somewhere in that sub 40mm ra...

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Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Mar 20, 2024

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection

As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials.  These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...

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An Equation for Watch Buying Satisfaction with the Bulova Hack Worn & Wound
Bulova Hack Jan 24, 2024

An Equation for Watch Buying Satisfaction with the Bulova Hack

In the early days of Facebook, “Facebook official” was a big deal. A status update from “in a relationship” to “single” sent shockwaves through social circles, and an update to “it’s complicated” was always sure to add some confusion and perhaps a few laughs. If such a social media page existed for watches (this is a terrible idea, please don’t do it), my status with the Bulova Hack would be: It’s complicated. I purchased my first Hack back in 2020 based on a subjective infatuation with its aesthetics. Afterall, the decision to purchase a watch is often triggered by an emotional response, and boy did the Hack have me smitten with its clean and legible classic military design. While I’m far from an expert on military watches, in the same way I can geek out over a racing chronograph without being a car guy, I appreciated that the modern Hack stayed relatively true to the Bulova A-11, credited as the watch that won the war. But technology has changed in the decades since the original Bulova Hack was issued to the US Military in World War II. As sapphire crystals and 100 meters of water resistance have become ubiquitous staples of field watches, the Hack remains stuck in the past with a mineral crystal and a mere 30 meters of water resistance. And though the modern Hack features a hackable movement just like the original ones that allowed for synchronizing time with the simple pull of a crown, the chunky Miyota 82S0 that allows for this feature, with an...

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What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast Fratello
Jan 22, 2024

What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast

Why you own a particular watch is a deeply personal affair. No one should tell you what you should collect and wear, nor should anyone suggest how you should live your life. You like what you like, and you do what you want to do. That’s why, in this article, I will only tell you […] Visit What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast to read the full article.

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Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs Fratello
Studio Underd0g Jan 19, 2024

Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs

Did anyone order pizza? Well, actually, I know many of you did. When Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc and Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen seemed to launch a pizza watch last April, watch enthusiasts went wild. Unfortunately, it was a very well-played April Fools’ joke, and everybody could soon get back to what they were doing. […] Visit Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs to read the full article.

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OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Jan 12, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: 2023 Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Review

What’s it like to own the Tudor Back Bay GMT Opaline Dial? And is it better than the original Black Bay GMT with the black dial? After spending half the year with mine, I know my answer! Purchasing Expectations Loved the bulky aesthetic Wanted a traveller’s GMT that ticked all the boxes My first Swiss luxury watch brand Ownership Reality Incredibly well-rounded and reliable; A true GADA timepiece Perhaps too bulky, almost unbalanced even on the bracelet Where is the in-clasp adjustment? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Taking the Pepsi Plunge If you have just dipped your toes into the whirlpool that is the watch world, you would know the recognisable blue and red colours of the Rolex GMT-Master II, nicknamed “Pepsi.” You would also know that acquiring such a watch is – for want of a better phrase – a massive pain in the behind! To even get a chance at one, you must: A)     Know a guy who knows a guy, or B)      Play games with the Authorised Dealer for what can extend to an eternity, or C)      Fork over exorbitant amounts of money for instant gratification on the secondary market. If you’re in the same financial situation as me, or even significantly wealthier, this kind of behaviour would put anyone off from trying to get one.            Even so, they are still incredibly popular – but that’s a whole different rabbit hole to go down. So, when Tudor released the original Bla...

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