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Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch SJX Watches
May 28, 2025

Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch

A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process.  Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements.  Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing.  The watch itself is pre...

Our Favorite Watches for Summer 2025 Worn & Wound
Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50 I May 26, 2025

Our Favorite Watches for Summer 2025

It’s Memorial Day Weekend, the unofficial start of summer. You know what that means: it’s time to talk summer watches. We’re not really sure when the “Summer Watch” concept began in earnest, but every year, the community’s thoughts collectively turn to seasonally appropriate watches for the hot and sticky months. Are summer watches a watch media invention? It’s possible. But there’s no denying that some watches just work better in the warmer, sunnier weather. We’d never say you can’t wear a precious metal watch dress watch on a glossy leather strap in the middle of July, but somehow we all seem to know that a lightweight diver on a rubber strap just makes more sense. Here then, are the watches we anticipate getting the most time on our wrists this summer. Feel free to chime in in the comments below to let us know what you expect to be wearing most as the summer heat sets in. Devin Pennypacker A go-to summer watch could really only mean one thing to me, it’s dive watch season. Truthfully, it’s always dive watch season for me, but at least during this time of year, I have some justification. More likely than not, if you run into me this summer baking like a lizard on the beach, jumping through the cold waves like a child, or taking in some fresh air, prolonging my time in the park, I’ll most likely be wearing my Omega Planet Ocean 2200.50. I am sure I just shocked everyone with that out-of-character pick.  Sure, I could have selected any dive watch...

Black Badger and Micromilspec Team Up for an Intergalactic Adventure, and a Limited Edition Milgraph Worn & Wound
May 26, 2025

Black Badger and Micromilspec Team Up for an Intergalactic Adventure, and a Limited Edition Milgraph

Micromilspec has been around for a while, and has carved out a niche for themselves by producing unapologetically tactical watches, often made in collaboration with military units all over the world. Their vibe tends to be somewhat serious, which is what you’d expect given the type of watches they make, and their focus on performance and durability. I mean, it’s all there in the name, right? “Micromilspec” conjures a certain idea of a watch in your brain, and it’s probably not, well, whatever it is that Black Badger has come up with for this limited edition.  Black Badger (otherwise known as James Thompson, the Chief of Materials at Arcanaut and the designer behind many lume forward watches over the years), has partnered with Micromilspec for a new take on their popular chronograph, the Milgraph. The so-called “Sabotage” edition of the Milgraph features healthy amounts of X1-grade Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands, for that signature Black Badger glow, but this is much more than a heavily lumed Milgraph. It’s a high concept art piece that imagines an entire alternate anime universe referenced in the watch as well as the little extras that come with it (a dog tag that has been laser engraved and blowtorch oxidized, which I think just means the guys lit it on fire). It’s way more playful and fun than what we’d typically expect from Micromilspec, but is somehow exactly what we’d expect from Black Badger.  The story Micromilspec and Black Badger h...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver Fratello
Longines Legend Diver Another Sunday May 25, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver

Another Sunday morning, another showdown. Grab your hot cup of coffee and get ready to vote! This week, it’s all about popular retro dive watches. One is the recently released white-dial Longines Legend Diver. It was met with much praise from media and fans alike as a brighter alternative to the black- and blue-dial options. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.

Have Luxury Limited-Edition Watches Lost Their Meaning And Purpose? Fratello
May 24, 2025

Have Luxury Limited-Edition Watches Lost Their Meaning And Purpose?

Limited-edition watches come in many shapes and sizes. And numbers. Almost every brand active in the luxury watchmaking sector makes LEs for countries, cities, retailers, car brands, sports teams, individual athletes, pilots, significant events, bands, fictional characters, artists, etc. Yes, the list of reasons to create a limited-edition watch seems unlimited, and that can hardly […] Visit Have Luxury Limited-Edition Watches Lost Their Meaning And Purpose? to read the full article.

Popular Watch Brands And Their Most Underrated Watches Teddy Baldassarre
May 23, 2025

Popular Watch Brands And Their Most Underrated Watches

In the world of watches, as with pretty much every niche of consumer goods, brands begin to become associated with the things that receive the most praise and attention. While the hyped watches in question undoubtedly earn the adoration of the masses for many reasons, whether it be their unique historical context, utility, or just plain and simple great looks, there are many other watches that get relegated to the sidelines that deserve another look. Since I personally love to root for an underdog, I wanted to take some time to shine a spotlight on some watches from the big popular watch brands that we know and love that often get lost in the shadows cast by the more popular catalog compatriots. From Rolex and Omega to Tudor and beyond, below you’ll find watches that deserve a little more love than they typically get.  Rolex 1908 I’m beginning with the watch that has quite literally been relegated to the bottom of Rolex’s own website with the Rolex 1908. Given that this is the most dressy model within The Crown’s contemporary collection, I would argue that it's also the watch that flies under the radar the most. The 1908 isn’t something that you spot across the room at a crowded restaurant or at a bar and immediately clock as a Rolex watch, which is ultimately why I find it endearing. It’s something that needs to be appreciated up close and personal. The world's most popular watch brand has made recent attempts to breathe some new life into the Rolex 1908 with...

eBay Finds: a Dressy Omega Seamaster, a Cool Compu Chron LED, and an Accutron Deep Sea in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Accutron Deep Sea May 23, 2025

eBay Finds: a Dressy Omega Seamaster, a Cool Compu Chron LED, and an Accutron Deep Sea in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille This may not be one of the famous Omega Seamasters with fat lugs, or the iconic divers, but this Seamaster DeVille is a great dress watch. The 35.5 yellow gold fill case is in good shape, with sharp edges and classy thin lugs. The caseback has a beautiful hand engraved personalization for 25 years with GTE Sylvania, dated 1974. The crown is original and signed with the Omega logo. The acrylic crystal is scratched and could use a good polish, but the silver dial underneath looks super clean. Classic simple Omega dial with applied gold baton markers and gold stick hands. Mo movement picture but the seller states it runs and keeps time.  View auction here Vintage Seiko 5  Here’s a nice, simple vintage Seiko 5, with original bracelet and a Seiko box. I’m not 100% sure this box is original, but it certainly looks to be from the correct period. The steel case is in beautiful shape, unpolished and with the original brushed finish. The silver dial is clean as a whistle, with cool applied steel baton markers that have large lume plots. The steel hands have matching lume filled plots as well. The dial has the ubiquitous day/date window at three o’clock, and...

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Teddy Baldassarre
Longines May 22, 2025

Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

Longines introduced the Zulu Time models to its aviation-influenced Spirit collection in 2022, and the watch’s dual-time complication, stylishly bold design, and undeniable value proposition have made it one of the brand’s biggest hits of the 2020s, spawning additional models in an array of sizes, materials, and color executions. The Spirit Zulu Time is now such a fixture in the Longines portfolio that it almost seems like it has always been there, despite being a relatively recent addition to the lineup; it doesn’t even precede the Covid pandemic, which, of course, somehow  seems like it happened only yesterday and yet also in another time and dimension entirely. However, all of that said, Longines’ history of making dual-time or GMT wristwatches like the Zulu Time reaches back much further - 100 years, to be exact. And it is that century milestone to which Longines pays tribute with the latest member of the family, unveiled today: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925.  Longines Zulu Time History: Longines produced its first “Zulu Time” wristwatch in that eponymous year of 1925, in the heart of the Art Deco era. Very dissimilar to the round-cased modern descendant, that watch had an angular, square case and ornate hour numerals, along with a third hand to indicate a second time zone and, most notably, a Zulu flag emblem with a red letter “Z.” Where did this iconography originate? In military jargon, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for t...

Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Certina May 22, 2025

Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Review

The Certina DS Action Diver 38mm is a dive watch that has been largely off the radar of many U.S. watch enthusiasts until somewhat recently but is having a moment in our current era, in which sporty utility, striking colorways, value for money, and understated sizing reign supreme in the watch market. How much do you know about the DS Action Diver, including the meaning of “DS,” or about the not-so-famous but very historic Swiss watch brand that produced it? Read on, and you’ll be up to speed. Origins Of Certina Certina traces its roots to 1888, but it wasn’t called Certina back then. That year, a pair of Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above), initially, to make movements and parts to sell  to other watch companies in the region. By 1906, however, they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces in the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the c...

Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End Fratello
Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 May 22, 2025

Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End

The older I get, the easier it is for me to pass up buying opportunities, especially when the watch in question isn’t 100% perfect and requires a compromise. I was searching for the right example of an Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” ref. 105.003 for six years, but my hunt recently ended, and it couldn’t have […] Visit Retrospective: A Long Hunt For An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 Comes To An End to read the full article.

8 Great Watches under $8,000 from Watches & Wonders 2025 Quill & Pad
May 22, 2025

8 Great Watches under $8,000 from Watches & Wonders 2025

After replacing her heating system, Carol Besler has been considering all the other thingsshe could have had for $8,000, which naturally led to thoughts about all the nice watches she could have had for around that price. Here are a few that stand out. Since then, I’ve been watching for them, and although it’s a challenging price point for a luxury watch, I’ve come up with a few contenders that offer real value for the money.

Knowledge: Popes and Precision – Papal Clocks and Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin also played May 22, 2025

Knowledge: Popes and Precision – Papal Clocks and Watches

With the recent election of Pope Leo XIV-the first American and Augustinian pontiff-a rare opportunity arises to revisit one of the most intriguing intersections between horology and the papacy. While much attention has historically centered on Pope Leo XIII’s Jubilee in 1888, when Patek Philippe crafted commemorative watches for the occasion, the relationship between watchmaking and the Vatican stretches further back, rooted in the values and vision of Patek Philippe’s co-founder, Antoine Norbert de Patek. A devout Catholic and Polish émigré, Patek viewed watchmaking not merely as a commercial enterprise but as a moral and cultural calling. His personal faith and longstanding connection to the Catholic Church helped shape the company’s enduring ties to religious institutions, most notably the Vatican. This ethos of sacred precision and spiritual patronage found material expression in a number of papal commissions, the most prominent of which emerged during the reign of Leo XIII. Complementing Patek Philippe’s contributions, Vacheron Constantin also played a significant role in this narrative. In collaboration with Parisian retailer Ratel, they produced devotional timepieces that transcended mere functionality, serving as instruments of spiritual reflection. These watches, rich in symbolism and craftsmanship, further exemplify the deep connections between horology and the papacy. Papal Precedents: The Watches of Pius IX Before Leo XIII’s Jubilee, the tradit...

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 21, 2025

Tudor Pelagos 39 Review

Back in 2012, Tudor unveiled its action-ready diver, capable of surviving depths up to a whopping 500 meters (that’s over 1,640 feet) with the Pelagos. To achieve that extensive depth rating, for many, the necessary tradeoff came with the 42mm sizing that the Pelagos debuted, which is the caveat made with the inclusion of a helium escape valve to make the case more secure in deeper diving excursions. In the years since its release, Tudor has riffed upon the Pelagos in various ways, even including teaming up with the French Marine Nationale to create the FXD extension on the line, and recently, throwing in a GMT complication into the mix. And let's not forget this year's Pelagos Ultra. But we are gathered here today to take a good, long look at the Pelagos many asked for, with the more versatile-sized Tudor Pelagos 39. Despite listening to the audience and essentially delivering what they ordered on a silver platter, the Pelagos 39mm has largely remained in the shadow of the brand’s golden child, the Black Bay 58. When comparing the two, there’s a lot of common ground between the two watches on the surface: they’re of comparable size (the Pelagos 39mm is actually .1mm slimmer), identical levels of water resistance at 200m, and the price difference between the two is under $1,000, which doesn’t seem incredibly significant given the Pelagos 39mm is all in Titanium, which always more costly. So, what is the secret sauce that the Black Bay 58 has that the Pelagos lack...