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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko Fratello
Seiko Our Fratelli Stories series Dec 4, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko

Our Fratelli Stories series shares some of the wonderful and interesting backstories of our readers around the world. Today, we speak with Robert Eames, who is an enthusiast for all sorts of watches and has a fascinating backstory. One vintage Seiko has particular resonance with him. Fratello reader Robert Eames wrote in after a story […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Retrieving NASA Rocket Boosters While Wearing A Seiko to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...

Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster “First Omega Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me. The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861. Initial thoughts Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect. Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul. My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat. Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I ...

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2024

Vyntage Horology Debuts Time-Only in Tantalum and Onyx

Vyntage Horology is a micro brand established by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East watch retailer giant best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. Vyntage has so far focused on small-run limited editions, with the latest being the Purity Tantonyx. The 24-piece edition is a time-only executed in a novel combination of exotic materials: a tantalum case with a polished black onyx dial. Inside is a manual-wind La Joux-Perret LJP7380 with a 90-hour power reserve that’s rotated 45 degrees from the usual position, giving the watch its signature four o’clock crown. Initial thoughts On its face, the Tantonyx seems like a familiar proposition from a micro brand. But a couple of things set this apart from the typical offerings in this segment. For one, the materials are unusual, especially at this price point. Granted, the tantalum case and onyx dial make this substantially more expensive than the base model Vyntage watch, but the pricing remains reasonable. The attention to detail in the execution also stands out. It’s obvious in the domed bezel and recessed seconds register (thanks to a two-part dial), but more notable in the finishing of the case, which has brushed flanks and polished tops for contrasting surfaces that are rarely done with tantalum due to its hardness. However, the design is a missed opportunity in terms of minimalism in my opinion. Though the dial is already clean – the model name is Purity after all – I would have gone a step further and eliminate...

Book Review: ‘Time on My Hands’, a Watch Collector’s Memoir by Mitch Katz SJX Watches
MB&F; Dec 3, 2024

Book Review: ‘Time on My Hands’, a Watch Collector’s Memoir by Mitch Katz

Time on My Hands: A Collector’s Journey in a World of Watches. By Mitch Katz. Tasfil Publishing. US$24.99 in paperback, US$10.89 for e-book Thanks to the growing popularity of watch collecting, there is no shortage of books one can find about watches. Even mainstream bookstores often have a few in stock, while specialty bookstores across the world, from Powell’s in Portland, Oregon to Tsutaya in Daikanyama, Tokyo, have entire sections devoted to watch books. But the watch publishing industry is dominated by brand books, like MB&F;: The First Fifteen Years, that celebrate a particular brand or model. Perhaps because watch collecting is still a nascent hobby, there have not been many (if any) memoirs written about watch collecting. And while Time on My Hands by Mitch Katz is highly educational at times, it succeeds most as a personal story about one man’s long journey down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. Initial thoughts As hard as it is to find a book written by a fellow collector, it’s rarer still to find one that recounts events that formed the basis of one’s own watch education. I first became aware of Mr Katz in 2008 when I joined the Purists forum, which is also where I became acquainted with SJX. When I was at university, the forum served as my nightly reading, and the wisdom I gained reading Mr Katz’s posts, and those of fellow Purists, helped me get up to speed on the many nuances of the watch industry. In Time on My Hands, Mr Katz shares the ups and...

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Worn & Wound
Dec 2, 2024

Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch

There’s a saying “To know your future, you must know your past”. The new KUOE Sombrero collection exemplifies this very concept. KUOE is a Kyoto, Japan-based brand that looks for inspiration from all kinds of sources-from the colors found within a distant galaxy of stars that’s over 13 million years old to referencing ancient architecture here on planet earth. KUOE also looks to the future by adding their very first dive watch to expand their collection. Called the Sombrero 90-011, named after a galaxy that’s 29.35 million light years away, it comes in 5 out-of-this-world colorways that draw inspiration from each of these various points of inspiration. Just as the Sombrero galaxy stands as one of the most resilient and captivating formations in space, the KUOE Sombrero 90-011 is designed with exceptional durability, featuring 200 meter water resistance, an AR coated sapphire crystal, a Miyota Cal. 9039 movement, and a magnetic-resistant case. This watch, engineered for the most extreme conditions, mirrors the vastness and strength of its celestial namesake, crafted with precision and care in KUOE’s Kyoto workshop for those who seek both form and function. The 38mm case and warm, subtle tones make the Sobrero 90-011 a clear, down-to-earth for your next everyday wearer. The post Lookbook: KUOE Takes a Down-to-Earth Approach to their Out-of-This-World Sombrero 90-011 Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” Fratello
Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies Dec 2, 2024

Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green”

Following the success of the Czapek × Fratello Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green, we knew we wanted to continue working with one of the most exciting brands in Haute Horlogerie. Without further ado, we introduce you to the Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green,” a watch that proudly celebrates its namesake color. Despite […] Visit Coming Soon: Czapek × Fratello Promenade Transparencies “Viridian Green” to read the full article.

Finding A New Fallback Watch Worn & Wound
Dec 2, 2024

Finding A New Fallback Watch

My favorite thing about the watch world is the people. Far and away, my experience of watch enthusiasm has been - if you avoid anonymous comments sections - one of kindness, warmth, and, above all, generosity. This is a world in which people routinely hand you the watches off their wrists, and are always willing to offer up information, experience, and advice. So in that context, it was shocking, but not surprising, when our illustrious CEO, Blake Malin, offered me his own Lorier Hydra Zulu for an extended trial period. The Lorier Hydra Zulu, which was introduced around Windup NYC last year, has been on my radar since its release. To be frank, the only reason I don’t own this watch yet is that it’s been pretty hard to find one. With the infrequent drops selling out quickly and a real dearth of availability on the second-hand market, my only choice has been to wait for Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega to restock. Thankfully, Blake’s intervention means I’ve had an excellent chance to experience the watch and to see if the Hydra Zulu has what it takes to fill in as my new ‘fallback watch.’ I’ve always resisted the term ‘beater watch.’ While I understand the sentiment behind the phrase, I’ve never liked the connotation. After all, one person’s beater can easily be another’s grail (again, a phrase I’m not a fan of), and, while most use the term entirely innocuously, ‘beater watch’ has always struck me as somewhat… dismissive, if not downright condes...

Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity SJX Watches
Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch Dec 2, 2024

Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity

Soon to go on the block at Sotheby’s upcoming New York sale is the very first Citizen 100th Anniversary Special Limited Edition Pocket Watch, numbered “001/100” on the case back. The penultimate lot in the sale that will take place on December 6, the pocket watch is being sold to benefit 1% for the Planet, the environmental charity whose founders include the entrepreneur who established outdoor clothing brand Patagonia. Included with the pocket watch is a special edition copy of Citizen: The Essence of Time, a book that details the brand’s history over the past century. The book is numbered “001/100” to match the watch. The cal. 0270 Launched earlier this year to mark the centennial of Citizen’s first-ever watch, the anniversary pocket watch was inspired by the original 1924 timepiece. Though it has a vintage-inspired aesthetic, the pocket watch is entirely modern in construction and materials. The delicately textured dial is made via electrodeposition, while the case is polished titanium. More notably, the case houses the in-house cal. 0270, a newly developed manual-wind movement with a sophisticated construction that includes a free-sprung balance. After the automatic cal. 0200, this is the second mechanical movement unveiled by Citizen, continuing its progress in developing a stable of high-end in-house calibres. (We reviewed the pocket watch in detail last month.) Estimated to sell for around US$10,000-15,000, the pocket watch “001/100” will be sold a...

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Plus Dec 2, 2024

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont

Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.

Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization Fratello
IWC Boutiques Portugieser Chronograph Customization Dec 1, 2024

Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization

In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program. It’s nice to see a large brand […] Visit Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization to read the full article.

Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models Fratello
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models Blancpain has Dec 1, 2024

Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models

Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models to read the full article.

5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point Worn & Wound
Dec 1, 2024

5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point

5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! 5 Watches You Can’t Miss at Every Price-point As watch enthusiasts, the only thing that’s better than a new watch, is getting a great deal on said new watch. Whether you’re looking to add something to an existing collection or start a new one, we’ve curated a selection of our top picks across multiple price points, and we’re super excited to share them with you. Regardless of price, these watches are packed full of features making them the perfect gift this holiday season! The post 5 Super-Versatile and Value-Packed Watches at Every Price Point appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Fratello
Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Dec 1, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 to read the full article.

Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More! Worn & Wound
Nov 29, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More!

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of new micro-brand news we’re following. This includes promising concepts, Kickstarter launches, restocks, and everything in between. Worn & Wound was founded over 10 years ago to support small independent companies and affordable micro-brands, and our passion for these brands remains strong. Here’s what has caught our attention this month. If you come across a project that qualifies for our roundup, please email us at info@wornandwound.com to be included. Houtman Watch Jason Liddell grew up in Western Australia and has always deeply appreciated the great outdoors. He is particularly fond of the iconic regions and landmarks in Western Australia, including the Murchison River and the Pilbara. Houtman Watches is named after the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, charted by the Dutch sailor Frederick de Houtman in 1619. The Houtman Abrolhos is the southernmost true coral reef system in the Indian Ocean and comprises a stunning chain of 122 islands along with their associated reefs. The first two series have been named after the rivers mentioned earlier, and their most recent collection is called the Murchison. This series showcases four dial and hand configurations, which include two field/dress watches, one field/sport watch, and one pilot watch. All these watches have a stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 11.5mm, and a length of 48mm from lug tip to lug tip. The interior width measure...

Industry News – Shakeups at Richemont – Jérôme Lambert Back as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Perves named CEO of Vacheron Constantin Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Swiss luxury powerhouse Richemont Nov 29, 2024

Industry News – Shakeups at Richemont – Jérôme Lambert Back as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laurent Perves named CEO of Vacheron Constantin

Swiss luxury powerhouse Richemont has just announced yet another round of shifts in top management positions, with new direction for two of its most prestigious watchmaking brands, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-Lecoultre. Effective January 1st, 2025, the nominations of Jerôme Lambert and Laurent Perves follow the appointments announced earlier this year. Nicolas Bos was promoted from […]