Deployant
New and Reviewed: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID
Panerai releases a new mechanical Submersible with a special luminescence dial called the Elux LAB-ID. Here is our hands-on impression of the novelty.
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Deployant
Fratello
Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches
Seiko serves three new cocktail-inspired watches, and I am slightly concerned that going hands-on with all of them at once will lead to delirium. The new Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT watches come in outspoken “flavors.” There’s the SSK037 Skydiving in refreshing light blue, the whiskey-inspired SSK039 Rusty Nail, and the fruity SSK041 Acacia. What’s your […] Visit Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Breitling SuperOcean Rainbow And 46mm Super Diver Editions
Breitling sets the mood for summer with two colorful rainbow SuperOceans in 36mm and 42mm cases. The 42mm stainless steel version has rainbow-shaded hands and indices and is available with striking rubber straps. Conversely, the 36mm rainbow option has a steel case with an 18k red gold bezel grip and white ceramic inlay. The 46mm […] Visit Introducing: The Breitling SuperOcean Rainbow And 46mm Super Diver Editions to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The New Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds
At the end of last year, I went hands-on with the colorful new versions of the Orient Bambino 38. I was surprised by how much value these watches packed for their very affordable price. The Fratelli in the comments were also impressed. Now the Japanese brand is introducing a more formal Bambino 38. Its four […] Visit Introducing: The New Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806
The Breitling Navitimer 806 with a black dial and sub-dials was on my wish list for quite a time. But it is not an easy watch to get your hands on. Despite that fact, I had two of them within the last two years. Well, as of today, I don’t have any either anymore. Let’s […] Visit #TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Beaubleu Seconde Française is a Fresh, Modern Interpretation of the Sector Dial
Founded in 2017 in Paris, we came across this relatively young and unusual brand in 2022 and can assert that Beaubleu has been a pleasant surprise. Elegant, original and different, there’s something arty and truly imaginative in the design of all collections, particularly in how the hands (a crucial element of a watch, don’t you […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series
Last November, Morgan and I visited the cozy Holthinrichs atelier on one of Delft’s picturesque canals. There, we had the chance to go hands-on with the brand’s new Deconstructed models and talk to the founder, Michiel Holthinrichs. We got to know the brand a little better and got a good look at those impressive watches. […] Visit Introducing: The Graceful Holthinrichs Signature Ornament And Limited Signature Lab Series to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: The New Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810
Who knew a brand known for making luxury pen could end up making an intriguing watch that caught our attention! Here's the latest Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 that was launch at Watches and Wonders 2024. We at Deployant are one of the first journalist to get our hands on it for "A Week on the Wrist" review. Read on to find out more!
Deployant
New and Reviewed: Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released today. Three new models are announced.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range
Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design. The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...
Monochrome
News - IWC Unveils Ceralume, The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch (Spotted at Monaco GP on Lewis!)
The use of luminescent materials on watches is far from new… Soon after the discovery of radium and its properties (and dangers…) by Marie and Pierre Curie in 1898, watch dials – markers, numerals and hands – have been coated with radium and then different substances (tritium, Super-LumiNova) to produce light in the dark. Fully […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Conquest 38 Review
Last year, Longines relaunched the Conquest, a mainstay of its collection since the mid-1950s, in a new execution heavily influenced by its earliest vintage forebears and staking out a dressier territory than its sporty dive-watch sibling, the Hydroconquest. Longines set out to expand the new Conquest’s appeal this year with a new series of models in unisex 38mm cases. Read on for a hands-on review of the new Conquest 38 with an effervescent champagne dial. Longines, founded in 1832 in the Jura valley of Switzerland, where it remains headquartered today, can claim a variety of milestones in its long history, including one that is largely overlooked. In the 1950s, Longines became one of the first watchmakers to introduce product “families,” today a staple of the watch industry; the first was the Conquest collection, whose name was registered on April 3, 1954 with the Swiss Registry of Intellectual Property and which launched that same year. Like just about any timepiece well past the half-century mark on the market, the Conquest has evolved substantially over the decades since. The first Conquest (Heritage re-edition pictured above) was a model of midcentury masculine simplicity, and one of the first wristwatches notable for its high levels of waterproofness and magnetic resistance. Its steel case measured a modest (but at the time standard) 35.2mm and fastened via wide, chamfered lugs to a leather strap. Its champagne-colored dial had arrowhead-style notched indexes ...
Fratello
#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget
It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767
One of the most fascinating timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe grand complication pocket watch ref. 767. Made in 1950 and sold in 1952, this one-of-a-kind pocket watch boasts a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and double split-seconds chronograph. More accurately, it is a mono-pusher, double split-seconds, or even triple-split seconds. This ref. 767 features not two, but three, chronograph seconds hands. As a result, it can simultaneously measure three elapsed times of up to one minute. The complication is possibly unique amongst Patek Philippe watches. A historically significant watch in itself, this ref. 767 also has notable provenance: it once belonged to Seth Atwood, the American industrialist who founded the now-closed Time Museum. According to Philips, this ref. 767 was Atwood’s everyday watch, not surprising since he was a legendary collector of his day with a collection that included the Patek Philippe Graves Supercomplication and the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique. Three seconds hands, two in blued steel and one in gold Initial thoughts I’ve been impressed by many pocket watches – some that come to include a Patek Philippe observatory tourbillon and the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie – but I’ve rarely been surprised. This ref. 767 was, however, entirely unexpected. When it was first described to me, I was confused and immediately thought of the Lange Double Split. But as it turns out, this is entirely d...
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Professional 300M 2254.50 Vs. 2531.80
Another Sunday, another Showdown! This week, we are pitting two neo-vintage Seamaster Professional 300M references against each other. In the black corner, we have the sword-handed 2254.50. Out of the blue corner fights the 2531.80 as worn by Pierce Brosnan in Die Another Day. Our very own Nacho owns the former, while Morgan proudly rocks […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster Professional 300M 2254.50 Vs. 2531.80 to read the full article.
Deployant
Today’s office: At The Hour Glass and the launch of the new MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue
We attended the MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue launch event at the MB&F; Lab by The Hour Glass, and bring you this event report and our hands-on with the new watch.
Monochrome
First Look - The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple
Armin Strom (1938) has gone down in the annals of watchmaking as a pioneer in the art of hand-skeletonisation. Now in the hands of Serge Michel and master watchmaker Claude Greisler, the independent watchmaking brand with 17 in-house calibres continues the master’s legacy of “transparent mechanics” with showstopping models like its Mirrored Force Resonance and […]
Monochrome
Event - Taste of Time - Indie Watch Event in the Netherlands
Watches & Wonder is just behind us… and that means a huge number of new watches for us to cover in articles and videos, and for you to discover. And now, we are planning an event where you can get some hands-on time with some of these new timepieces if you didn’t have the time […]
Deployant
Review: the new Hermès CUT
At Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, Hermés released a new model lineup which they call CUT. We got our hands on one, and here is our review.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”
One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...
Fratello
Pre-Owned Spotlight: Jumping-Hour Watches From Bell & Ross, Gérald Genta, And Breguet
For some reason, watches with a jumping-hour complication always intrigue me. The fact that they don’t necessarily need to have traditional hands inspires designers to do things differently. They come up with original ways of displaying the time. Sometimes, there’s just a simple hour window and an additional minute hand. But the watches can also […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Jumping-Hour Watches From Bell & Ross, Gérald Genta, And Breguet to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGW003
Here we bring you our hands on, comprehensive review of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hand wound Mechanical High Beat SLGW003 in Brilliant Hard Titanium.
SJX Watches
An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Deployant
Live from WWG 24: new watches from Speake Marin
Model refresh is the order of the day with Speake Marin. And here are our impressions after the hands-on, live from PalExpo.
Deployant
Live from WWG24: new watches from Vacheron Constantin
We covered the press release with commentary by Frank Chuo on Monday, and today, we are have our hands-on session. Here are our imppressions.
Deployant
Live from WWG 24: new watches from Piaget
We kick off this Friday morning with our hands-on session at Piaget . And give you this hands-on live report. See it with us.
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek
Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours
Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad
UN releases a Freak with a new release for 2024 - the Freak S Nomad. No dial, no crown and no hands. Return to conceptual origins of The Freak.
SJX Watches
The Parmigiani Tonda PF Does Away with the Date
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier is launching the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, a concise sports watch clearly catered to those who want just two hands. Featuring a “Golden Siena” (or “salmon”) dial in its inaugural guise, the new Tonda PF barely deviates from the design of the original released in 2021, retaining the same case, proportions, and movement, but eliminates the date. Initial thoughts Among the sports watches launched during the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch fad, the Tonda PF stood out for its unique aesthetics that are neither boring nor flashy. While many of its competitors were often obvious derivatives of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Tonda PF was more original and managed to retain some of the traditional design codes of Parmigiani’s more formal watches. From a distance, it is challenging to tell the difference between the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date and the original. In fact, the only real difference lies in the dial design and colour. Although the differences are minimal, the salmon dial with a no-date layout offers a more refined aesthetic that will appeal to purists. At CHF23,500, the watch is priced the same as the date version and like it, is a decent-enough value proposition. Though it seems expensive when compared to more affordable alternatives like the Louis Vuitton Tambour or Moser Streamliner, the Tonda PF is more affordable than the Royal Oak or a Nautilus (which are mostly unobtaina...