Inside The Design: Lust For the Must
Cartier has a runaway hit with the Must, the youngest and coolest watch to come out of Paris in a long time. Here, our design columnist explains why there's more to the simple aesthetic than meets the eye.
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Cartier has a runaway hit with the Must, the youngest and coolest watch to come out of Paris in a long time. Here, our design columnist explains why there's more to the simple aesthetic than meets the eye.
Quill & Pad
Michael Clerizo sat down at Watches and Wonders 2022 to talk to the watch world at large about Scott Lenga’s just-published book, 'The Watchmakers,' the true story of how Scott's father Harry used watchmaking as a survival skill as a Jewish prisoner in a Nazi labor camp. Here we have the full discussion on video.
Deployant
We come to the end of our armchair picks from this year's W&W;, and here is our Chief Editor rounding up with his top 3 picks from the shows.
Hodinkee
Sometimes it seems like every "collectible" watch costs as much as a condo. Here's a rare Timex that's plenty collectible, but not because of the price – it's because the thing was just about impossible to buy.
Quill & Pad
Watches and Wonders 2022 (previously SIHH) recently took place in Geneva. It is an invite-only event for retailers, journalists, and collectors. According to the fair organizers, nearly 22,000 unique visitors (including almost 1,000 journalists) attended. But enough about that, let’s get to what you’re here for: our unblemished comments on the watches we saw, which you can find right here!
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Hodinkee
HODINKEE staff photographer Tiffany Wade turns her camera on the quieter moments of our big trip to Geneva.
Time+Tide
In 1979, Evelyn Brooker walked into a jeweller in Sydney. She was seeking a 21st birthday gift for her son, Murray, a keen scuba diver. She left the store with a Seiko 6309-7290, a professional diver’s watch, which was gift-wrapped for the special occasion. Four years later, Murray is 25 and diving off Broughton Island … ContinuedThe post How a Seiko diver connected Jack with the daredevil uncle he never got to meet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...
Time+Tide
“We’re here at the pinnacle of watchmaking – the top tier of the holy trinity!” That’s how Zach introduces Patek Philippe in this video with Ricardo that mulls over the brand’s best release of Watches & Wonders. And as you can quickly tell from his liberal use of superlatives – he’s pretty excited. But when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Tudor's latest creation alters the course of the Black Bay and I'm here for it.
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Quill & Pad
Anyone who expresses even so much as a fleeting interest in great wine will soon come across Krug, for many the greatest champagne of all. There are champagne lovers and then there are devotees of Krug: Krugists. Ken Gargett doubts that any other champagne, or wine, has a word to designate its adoring fans. Here he explains why.
Deployant
A calm today, before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022 and associated watch fairs being held in Geneva. Here a quick rundown on what is coming this week.
Time+Tide
If you’re old enough to remember the song Video Killed the Radio Star, you’re also old enough to remember a time when most people wore quartz watches. This was a time of breakdancing, big hair, even bigger shoulder pads, and every song on the radio having at least one saxophone solo. The 80s might have … ContinuedThe post Why this is the golden age of mechanical watch collecting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Citizen releases a new model to their The Citizen Mechanical Cal. 0200 lineup with a model inspired by Japanese armour. Here is the Ref. NC0206-18E.
Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern generally likes relatively restrained, traditional, high-end watches that are not too big for his small wrists. So with its large, high case, blingy, spinning “LOOK AT ME!” rotor on top, and mass-market Miyota movement, the M.A.D.1 ticks all of the boxes on his “may be interesting, but not for me” list. Here he explains why he bought one anyway and his first impressions.
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Quill & Pad
Ineichen Auctioneers’ first auction of 2022, aptly entitled “La Vie en Rose,” took place in Zurich and online on March 12, 2022. As the name of this auction professed, all 40 of the watches offered in the white glove sale were encased in pink – “rose” – gold. Here, Elizabeth Doerr brings you the results, including five of the less “mainstream” independent offerings and one rarity from an established brand that interested connoisseurs.
Hodinkee
A simple, straightforward, and refreshing spin on Girard-Perregaux’s jet-setting WW.TC.
Hodinkee
In her HODINKEE debut, the founder of Dimepiece takes a flaming-hot AP on a tour of Manhattan.
Quill & Pad
As GaryG prepares for his trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders 2022, the demise of Baselworld is very much on his mind. It seems to him that the era of all-inclusive mega watch shows is rapidly coming to an end. The natural implication is that Watches and Wonders Geneva will be the next exhibition to change radically or that it will even cease to exist. Here he explains why.
Time+Tide
I’ve always had a crush on the dual register Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection. The design felt modern and sleek while I also appreciated the date complication that was added. Furthermore, Omega still managed to fit a 12-hour counter on the watch. It truly was a match made in heaven until I got to the specifications. … ContinuedThe post Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Early American historian and Harvard professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich titled her 2008 book 'Well-Behaved Women Seldom Make History.' Ulrich would probably be very interested to know about three famous Swiss and French brands whose very first wristwatches were made for – and in a way by – women. Their watches have made history as some of the first examples of wristwatches in history, too.
Deployant
Omega released a series of watches yesterday in their Omega Watch Days show. We attended the conference online, and here is our top pick from the watches released – the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A very special watch, challenging the depths of the oceans where no watch has gone to before. Press Release informationRead More
SJX Watches
Omega has just taken the covers off a slew of new watches for 2022, but the standout is doubtlessly the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m. The Ultra Deep began with a trio of experimental Ultra Deep watches that completed a 12-hour dive strapped onto the exterior of a submersible, reaching 10,935 m, or 35,876 ft, the deepest any human or watch has ever dived according to Omega. The experimental watch – which was rated to 15,000 m – has evolved into the commercially-available Ultra Deep, which is Omega’s capable dive watch. While having half the depth rating of the experimental model, the Ultra Deep 6000 m is much more wearable with a diameter of 45.5 mm, similar to that of a Planet Ocean 600 m, albeit with a case thickness of 18.12 mm. The experimental watch, on the other hand, was almost 28 mm thick. And needless to say, the Ultra Deep is a saturation diver’s watch, but one constructed impermeable to gases, explaining the lack of a helium escape valve. Initial thoughts Omega’s top-tier dive watches have always been thick, but the Ultra Deep takes it to the next level. With its enormous case, the Ultra Deep is probably not very wearable, but that’s an integral feature of a dive watch like this. It is so overbuilt that it doesn’t really make sense, but that’s what makes the Ultra Deep cool. While the technical achievement of the depth rating is impressive, the Ultra Deep is notable for more than just raw numbers. Among its novel features is O-Megast...
SJX Watches
The latest watchmaker to strike out on his own as a one-man operation is Yosuke Sekiguchi, a Japanese watchmaker who has spent his entire career in Switzerland. Based in Le Locle, Mr Sekiguchi spent several years at well-known complications specialists before starting on his namesake brand. His debut watch is the Primevère, a wristwatch that is uncompromising in its adherence to tradition, both in style and substance. Powered by a finely finished movement, the Primevère was inspired by the 19th century “Le Locle” style ebauche that LeCoultre supplied to several brands, most notably Jules Jurgensen. In fact, Mr Sekiguchi modelled the Primevère on an 1871 Jurgensen pocket watch that he restored and then re-cased into a wristwatch. Initial thoughts Mr Sekiguchi is one of several Japanese watchmakers working in Switzerland. Like a few of his compatriots, Mr Sekiguchi’s background is in complications and restoration. His reverence for high-quality Vallee de Joux movements of the 19th century is equally obvious in the eminently traditional layout of the movement. Mr Sekiguchi has done such a good job of recreating the original that the movement is difficult to distinguish from a 19th century calibre in both aesthetics and finishing at a distance. But up close the Mr Sekiguchi’s movement reveals a higher level of finishing and decorative extras than a 19th century original, which were often robust and workmanlike – the very qualities that drew Mr Sekiguchi to the...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: They’re the questions we all ask ourselves when contemplating a new mechanical watch: is it worth it? Is that price-tag truly justified? Here’s Justin’s excellent piece offers some pointers on what to look for and what separates fine from very fine watchmaking. It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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