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The post All Roads Lead to Art for Custom Porsche Builder, Visual Artist, and Watch Modifier Rich Gonçalves of ROCS appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water; it can also protect against dust, humidity, sweat, and even baby drool, prepared to handle any adventure. We have curated a selection of medium-sized dive watches suitable for small to medium wrists now that the trend for oversized watches has waned. We even believe that individuals with larger wrists may find them appealing. Dive watches have always been popular, and it is no wonder nearly every brand must have one in their repertoire. People love owning overengineered things. This could be a car capable of reaching speeds well over 100mph, even though the highest maximum speed limit in the U.S. is 85 (in Texas), or a watch with a water resistance rating of 200+ meters, despite the maximum depth for recreational diving being only 40. Not to mention that most dive watch owners rarely get their timepieces wet. The advantage of wearing a rugged dive watch is that it can withstand more than just water;...
Time+Tide
I knew the Citizen exhibition in NYC was celebrating its 100th anniversary, but i didn't know 100 watches would be on display.The post 100 Years, 100 Watches: Zach visits private Citizen exhibition in NYC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Unimatic took a step in a new direction this summer with the release of a new collection simply called Toolwatch. The collection consists of four watches across two styles, and represents a push into function-driven design. Each of the watches meet the MIL-STD-810 standard used by the US Department of Defense, and boast an internal protection system designed by Unimatic. It’s clear the Italian brand is making a serious move into true tool-watch territory here, and the watches themselves have a number of unique elements on their side, but how do they stand up to real-world, practical use? We went hands-on to find out. The UT1 GMT is one of four variations released within the Toolwatch collection, utilizing a fully indexed rotating bezel, and featuring a GMT disk and date complication. As with all Unimatic watches, the case is the most distinctive feature of the UT1, and it falls into very familiar territory. The design language that Unimatic has developed for its cases is geometric and confident, with fixed planes that meet at set angles, and no real curvature in sight. At 41.5mm in diameter, and 49mm from lug to lug, this case has a muscular presence, but never feels overbearing. This is a case that invites a closer look at a variety of angles, and there’s always a dramatic view that awaits. It’s not graceful, but it works just fine on the wrist, all things considered. This is a watch that wears its personality on its sleeve, and at nearly 14mm thick, it won’t be...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year we told you about Swiss brand Delma’s 100th anniversary celebration, which kicked off with the release of a limited edition tourbillon. Of course, plenty of brands release tourbillons and they are a natural for a celebratory watch, but very few come in at under $10,000, which the Delma did during its pre-order period (the full retail price is $13,900, which is still quite affordable for a Swiss tourbillon). Their latest effort, announced last month, has also been released to coincide with the brand’s centenary, but it’s a bit more modest in its focus. The new Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition pays tribute to Delma’s long history of making chronographs in a handsome package that’s a bit more under the radar (and more affordable) than their release from earlier in the year. Delma traces their history of making chronographs to the mid 1940s when the brand’s focus began to shift to sport oriented watches. Over the years, they’ve made watches for just about every sporting discipline that a well rounded watch brand would ever attempt, including dive watches, timepieces meant for racing of all kinds, as well as travel watches. The new Heritage Chronograph has several clear vintage cues meant to tie this watch to the brand’s earliest sports watches. Like many WWII era and later mid century chronographs, the Heritage Chronograph features both tachymeter and telemeter scales at the dial’s outer perimeter. Red accents within the te...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we decided to skip our best-of-2024 lists and focus on watches commemorating the Olympic Games. With the Paris Olympics in full swing, it’s a good moment to look at some of Omega’s best Olympic releases. But while Omega has been the Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games since 1932, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Omega Olympic Games Special Editions to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Non-vintage champagnes were consider second tier to their vintage superstars, but that's now changed. Ken Gargett takes a look at the history of non-vintage champages and shares some of his favorites.
WatchAdvice
We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...
Hodinkee
The Michelin star chef brings us into his award-winning restaurant to show a few of his watches.
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Fratello
According to an early ’50s print ad for the Zodiac Autographic ref. 666, “No motorist would buy a car without a petrol gauge.” It’s amusing but true, I can’t help but think it’s such a witty way to put a bug (or watch) in your mind. Zodiac stole my heart a few times in the […] Visit #TBT A Wonder-Packed And Unusual Zodiac Autographic Ref. 666 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Grand Seiko pays tribute to the transitioning sky over Lake Suwa with its new regional releases.
Time+Tide
The dusty rose and cool blue dials of the new Grand Seiko USA exclusives are bound to have international fans groaning.The post Grand Seiko debuts two new kira-zuri USA exclusives that will stir up global envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One of Martin Green's favorite complications is the perpetual calendar, aka QP. While he knows that an annual calendar can do almost the same for a lot less, he is still mesmerized by the human ingenuity of being able to a miniature mechanical device that can even deal with leap years.
Worn & Wound
The post How To Change A Watch Strap Or Bracelet appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Hanhart releases a new special edition: the Fly Navy Aerosphere. Two references, each limited to 150 pieces. Eath in either fabric strap or steel bracelet.
Time+Tide
The Rolex 1908 launched with much fanfare, so why has the Omega De Ville Tresor been overlooked for years?The post Have modern Omega dress watches been slept on for far too long? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a union of almost everything that is associated with A. Lange & Söhne, from the Lumen treatment to the case metal. Appropriately enough, it was conceived to mark a milestone: the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, the brand’s trademark chronograph. While the impressive watch has nearly all of Lange’s signature elements, is it truly great? Initial thoughts The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is ambitious because it is an all-in-one limited edition. The watch is big, heavy, and flawlessly executed. It feels like an object of exceptional quality, and lives up to expectations under a loupe. It captures Lange as a brand in tangible terms. The long name is descriptive and sums up the key elements of the watch, almost all of which are unique to Lange. While the earlier versions were already extremely complicated, this goes a further by incorporating uniquely Lange livery with the Lumen dial and Lange’s own Honeygold alloy. Essentially everything synonymous with Lange can be found here. There’s the Datograph chronograph movement, outsized date, a hacking tourbillon with a cage that will be familiar to fans of German watchmaking, the tinted-and-luminous dial, and the case in Lange’s proprietary gold alloy. The only distinctively Lange features missing are Handwerkskunst decoration and a chain and fusee, either of which would have hoisted the price past the million-dollar mark. But the latest...
Time+Tide
Has the old adage of not wearing your dive watch with a suit finally become outdated? There's an argument to made that is has.The post Dive watches can be dressy, and this is why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Introducing the Lange & Heyne and introducing the 7 piece limited edition Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Quill & Pad
The Etheral Twin Orbital Tourbillon is, in many ways, a landmark model for Cyrus, marking the start of a new chapter.
SJX Watches
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
Teddy Baldassarre
In recent years there has been a flurry of small watch brands that have succeeded in making a big impact on the watch-collector community and in the overall watch industry. With new watchmakers coming on the scene from almost every corner of the world, with styles ranging from vintage to traditional to avant-garde, which of these brands are worth paying attention to, and why? We asked two veteran watch-industry watchers and commentators (and regular fixtures on TeddyBaldassarre.com) - contributing writer Blake Buettner (former managing editor of Worn & Wound and founder of The Deep Track); and our Director of Editorial Content, Mark Bernardo (former senior editor of WatchTime magazine) - to name five small watch brands that are on their radar in 2025. Formex (Switzerland) Formex is, in many ways, an interesting brand and manufacturer. Its design DNA is quite bold and won’t be to everyone’s taste, but it’s matured quite nicely in recent years, though the true story of this brand goes deeper still. Formex designs and manufactures many of the components used in the case and bracelet, from a quick-adjustment system to a full case suspension (explained in this article), so there’s plenty to appreciate when it comes to mechanical ingenuities. On top of that, Formex is aggressively experimental when it comes to working with novel materials, offering rarities like forged carbon cases and stone dials across its lineup. What I love about Formex is the company...
Monochrome
Originally founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, Germany, A. Lange & Söhne has become over the past years one of the most important watchmakers of the Saxon region. The story of Lange Uhren GmbH is, however, not as simple as it seems and despite subsequent generations of the family keeping the brand […]
Worn & Wound
Casio is celebrating 50 years of TOM’s Racing with the release of a new racing-inspired chronograph. The Casio Edifice Sospensione TOM’s 50th Anniversary builds on Casio’s long history of technical, multi-function watches to deliver a fittingly contemporary watch that also references half a century of racing history. TOM’s Racing, for those not overly invested in the world of JDM tuner cars or Super GT, is a longstanding aftermarket parts manufacturer and tuner, primarily focused on Toyota and Lexus models. TOM’s Racing has also been heavily involved in competitive racing since day one, often acting as a tuning partner for factory race teams across racing divisions, and they have served as an official tuning shop for Toyota since 1975, just a year after their founding. This latest release from Edifice draws inspiration from one of TOM’s most iconic cars, the KP47 Starlet, which helped launch the brand onto the racing scene, winning touring car series championships in 1975, 1976, and 1978. With its vibrant livery, the KP47 has become somewhat of a mascot for the race house over the last five decades, so there’s no more fitting car for Casio to choose as inspiration for this limited edition. Edifice often gets overlooked by enthusiasts in favor of Casio’s other brand known for technical, multi-function watches, but pay close attention in the real world and you’ll see Edifice watches everywhere. Affordable, capable, and dripping in multi-functional goodness,...
Fratello
Today, Walter Lange would’ve turned 100 years old. It’s a special day for A. Lange & Söhne because Walter Lange, who passed away at the respectable age of 92 in 2017, revived the brand his great-grandfather founded in 1845. In December 1990, a year after the Berlin Wall fell, Lange re-established his great-grandfather’s legacy under […] Visit A. Lange & Söhne Remembers Walter Lange On What Would’ve Been His 100th Birthday to read the full article.
Fratello
There’s no shortage of vintage-inspired watches in today’s market. With so many options, there are bound to be hits and misses. This article will be a personal take on the factors that attract me to a vintage-inspired watch design or do the complete opposite. I have found four main aspects that seem to frustrate me […] Visit Vintage-Inspired Watch Designs - What Makes Them Work Or Not? to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso is like most collectors of luxury watches; he's bought, owned, and sold many brands and models of watch. Here Tim discusses the deeper reasoning behind the decision to sell each of his watches.
Monochrome
End of July, the sun is out, temperatures are rising and the sea is blue… This is the time of the year when a high-end dress watch doesn’t make much sense. Unless you’ll spend your holidays reading books in an air-conditioned library (no judgment, if that’s your thing), most of us will spend time next […]
Fratello
It’s finally getting warmer here in the Netherlands, and many people are already enjoying their summer vacations. That means it’s time to dig up those funky, colorful dive watches and wear the hell out of them while diving, swimming, hiking, or relaxing next to your tent. We’ll do the same today during another Sunday Morning […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite to read the full article.
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