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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

In-Depth: Alfred Helwig’s Flying Tourbillon in Wrist- and Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Oct 29, 2024

In-Depth: Alfred Helwig’s Flying Tourbillon in Wrist- and Pocket Watches

The flying tourbillon marks the beginning of my career as a watch dealer and collector. In the mid-1970s, I met a former fellow pupil of mine, Richard Miklosch, in a little antique shop in my hometown of Aachen. At the time, I was unaware that Miklosch (1939-2014), originally a technical schoolteacher, had become a highly sought-after watchmaker specialising in pocket watch tourbillons (Fig. 1) – to his great credit being entirely self-taught in the field [1, p. 198][1, pp. 374-377][2, p. 140][3, p. 40]. That is how Theodor Beyer, who ran Chronometrie Beyer and Beyer Uhrenmuseum in Zürich, came to have a Miklosch tourbillon, as well as a George Daniels tourbillon, in his collection. I told him about my growing fascination for watches and my plans to start organising auctions specialised in this field. Miklosch looked at me sympathetically, and, pulling a watch out of his pocket he said: “This is one of the best precision timepieces ever made”. Although I had only rudimentary knowledge of the subject at the time, I was immediately struck by the visual aesthetics of the movement. It was one of the flying tourbillons from the famous Glashütte School; to be precise the 1930-1931 tourbillon made by Max Hahn marked “School no. 3673” and “Special no. 21”. That was my eureka moment and one that ultimately marked the beginning of my watch career. Some of these iconic watches were to pass through my hands in the following 50 years, or even to find a place in my colle...

Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing Fratello
Oct 29, 2024

Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we tackle a listener question about pairing watches and straps with our clothing. Do we care or put a lot of thought into what watches we wear with our garb? Stick around to find out more. Watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. This […] Visit Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing to read the full article.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 28, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review

There are some watches that kind of stay with you. They may not be in your wheelhouse as far as taste is concerned (or at least what you think your taste is), but something about them just resonates. This is how I feel, and have felt, about the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow, a watch that has been in production for some time, one that I have reviewed in the past, and one that I still do not own but which continues to take up valuable real estate in my brain.  The version of the watch that I got turned onto was the only one available until recently - a blasted-finish, black-coated titanium chronograph in the retro A384 case format that plays on the past but brings a decidedly modern design sensibility to the overall package. The dial is a matte, flat black and the text on it is well thought-out in terms of the vintage effect, down to the printing of the logos and numerals. It’s as if you’re looking at a museum artifact, except that it's packed with one of the best modern automatic chronograph movements in the game, Zenith's own El Primero, and at 37mm it fits perfectly on my 6.25-inch wrist. If you have been paying attention to Zenith over the past half-decade or so, you are sure to notice that the brand has done quite a job in balancing vintage revivals with innovative new releases. It’s the only brand I know that revives a watch and keeps everything true to form down to the clasp on a bracelet. I recall handling another Shadow model – the Defy Shadow ...

Awake Gives Us a Lesson in Creating Watches for Future Generations Worn & Wound
Oct 28, 2024

Awake Gives Us a Lesson in Creating Watches for Future Generations

The concept of a “mid-life crisis” has long had a negative connotation thanks to the word “crisis” implying a moment of difficulty, but I’d suggest we rethink this as a mid-life turning point. For Lilian Thibault, founder of Awake, this moment came when he reached a certain age and his kids began to grow. He took the opportunity to turn a mid-life crisis into a mid-life reinvention. After years of investing in other successful businesses, he decided to invest in himself and his own passions. Lilian had been an avid watch collector for more than two decades, and in 2018 he set out to create his own brand-Awake was born. “As my kids are growing older, I’ve started to think more and more about the legacy that will be left behind for them,” Lilian told me. “I decided I wanted to bring my own brand to market that reflects the vision I would like to see in the world for the next generation. This is, in fact, why I chose the name ‘Awake,’ I have a mission to awaken people’s attention to beauty and what really matters in life.” Lilian Thibault To bring his vision to life, Lilian launched a Kickstarter to raise funds for production in 2018. The campaign was originally planned to run for a month, but the brand reached its goal of $30,000 within an hour and ended up raising $400,000-Lilian was clearly onto something, and his vision was resonating. A year later, the brand unveiled its first collection aptly named “Origins.” In the spirit of thinking a...

Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches Fratello
Breitling Expands Oct 28, 2024

Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches

Breitling just unveiled a bunch of new Avenger models. With a handful of new black ceramic Night Mission editions alongside new 46mm titanium and 42mm stainless steel Avenger chronographs, there is plenty to talk about. The Night Mission versions that stand out immediately are the 42mm chronographs with Sand and Turquoise colorways. And what do […] Visit Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches to read the full article.

Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume Worn & Wound
Laco Limes Stowa Oct 28, 2024

Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume

Germany is the home of many prominent timepiece manufacturers. The most notable city known for watchmaking is Glashütte; however, another city, Pforzheim,, located roughly 560 kilometers away, has its own proud watchmaking history. Brands calling Pforzheim home include Circula, Laco, Limes, Stowa, and others, along with the famous case maker Ickler, whose work supplies numerous watch brands worldwide. Heinrich is a watch brand located in Stuttgart, less than an hour from Pforzheim. This proximity allows brand founder Wolfgang Heinrich to collaborate with skilled watchmakers to develop new sport and dive watches that take inspiration from the 1970s while incorporating a unique twist. Twist barely describes their latest creation, the Taucher Infused Forged Carbon V2. If that sounds like a mouthful, it is, but it is also an eyeful. These watches feature dials and bezel inserts made from colored forged carbon combined with SuperLuminova BGW9. We are not only referring to the indices, minute track, and bezel markings being lumed; instead, we mean that the dial and bezel material itself is integrated with lume. The fusion of materials in each watch is unique, ensuring no two are alike.  The 41mm stainless steel case measures 13.6mm to the top of the boxed sapphire crystal, and due to the very short lugs, it has a compact length of 47.8mm from lug tip to lug tip. This watch should fit nearly everyone comfortably. Although it has a 1970s throwback style, this case is 200 meters ...

Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore? Fratello
Oct 28, 2024

Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore?

Watch brands are on a high-paced treadmill to constantly release new watches. In fact, most brands release several new models every single year. Why? “To remain relevant” is an often-heard explanation. Or it could be to provide a constant stimulus to drive sales. Could this be why most new watches receive lukewarm responses from the […] Visit Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore? to read the full article.

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Pair Oct 28, 2024

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel

Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....

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Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss, take you inside Windup Watch Fair New York City 2024. The biggest and best Windup yet, there were over 140 brands in attendance and tens of thousands of guests. Unfortunately, we couldn’t cover everything we saw there, so we focused on talking to six brands new to Windup. This episode was sponsored by Trafford Watch Co and their new Touring GMT. The latest from the Austin-based watchmakers is inspired by the relentless spirit of musicians and their fans. The Touring GMT has independent hour and GMT hands so you can seamlessly track the time in your next venue and back at home. Available in three colorways inspired by American music venues, check out the Touring GMT at Trafford Watch Co The post A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Doxa Sub 200T Fratello
Oris Divers Date Vs Doxa Oct 27, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Doxa Sub 200T

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we will focus on two vintage-inspired dive watches from 2024. The Doxa Sub 200T came out this past spring, while the Oris Divers Date debuted just last week. Both celebrate the style of vintage divers from bygone eras. The brand-new […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Date Vs. Doxa Sub 200T to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Bulova with Military Provenance, a Glycine in Great Condition, and a Classic LeCoultre Memovox Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux   Starting off Oct 25, 2024

eBay Finds: A Bulova with Military Provenance, a Glycine in Great Condition, and a Classic LeCoultre Memovox

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard-Perregaux  Starting off this week with an absolutely stunning vintage Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk. The 33mm wide stainless steel case looks unpolished with crisp edges. The white dial is a beauty, with nice slim, steel arrow markers that are reminiscent of the classic vintage 1950’s Omega Seamasters. The dial looks original and appears spotless, and is complemented by steel dauphine hands. The crown is original and signed with the GP logo as it should be. There is no movement picture, but the seller states the manual wind movement runs and keeps time. This is a classic looking piece from a premier, yet under-rated vintage watch manufacture.  View auction here Vintage Bulova Military  What this little guy lacks in size, it makes up for in swag. The vintage Bulova MIL-W-3818A is a classic and well known Vietnam era issued military watch designed for pilots. It has the classic pilots black dial with easy to read lumed Arabic numerals and a 24 hour inner track. The movement is manual wind and hacks for accuracy. The watch looks all original to me, and in fantastic condition. It has the correct military engravings on the back, and the original jumbo crown (for easy winding ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus list it’s time Oct 25, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models to read the full article.

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement SJX Watches
Carl F. Bucherer Oct 25, 2024

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement

In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...

Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Oct 25, 2024

Zenith Introduces Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee

For the Singapore retailer’s 70th anniversary, Zenith debuts the Defy Skyline Big Date Flyback Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. In a first for the model line, the limited edition combines a big date and flyback chronograph, while the case and integrated bracelet are in sandblasted titanium for a clean, monochromatic aesthetic. Initial thoughts Best known for the landmark El Primero high-frequency chronograph movement, Zenith also jumped on the fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches with the Defy Skyline. The angular case and polygonal bezel bring to mind other designs, but like other Zenith offerings, the Defy Skyline is appealing because it’s well priced and equipped with a solid movement. The Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is no exception. In fact, it’s one of the best looking iterations of the model with its all-grey look. Even though the colours are muted, this iteration of the Defy Skyline stands out. Priced at 22,200 Singapore dollars (about US$17,000), the Sincere edition is priced competitively for what you get, which includes an El Primero calibre with extra complications. El Primero The Sincere edition has the signature Defy Skyline design of a dodecagonal bezel, angular case with oversized pushers, and an integrated bracelet. The case and bracelet are sandblasted to a smooth matte finish, resulting in a striking, deep grey tone. The titanium case is 42 mm in diameter and 47.4 mm lug-to-lug. Despite the seemingly large case, the Defy Skyline is weara...

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Worn & Wound
Alpina s Seastrong Extreme Iceland Oct 24, 2024

Tool/Kit: Staying Strong in Iceland with Nick Stirbis and Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme

Iceland is known worldwide for its extreme environments, temperamental weather, and otherworldly scenery. I’ve been lucky enough to experience the Arctic island on two occasions this year, this time accompanied by the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic and Extreme Automatic GMT. As an outdoor adventure-focused photographer, I needed a watch that was bombproof and capable of taking on the elements, from gale-force winds and sideways rain to jagged rocks and freezing temperatures (all of which we experienced on this mission). These rugged watches were particularly well suited for the job. The post Tool/Kit: Staying Strong in Iceland with Nick Stirbis and Alpina’s Seastrong Extreme appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials

The Breguet Classique line - contrary to what its name suggests - always reminds me of Baroque music. I can hear Scarlatti when I see the coin-edge cases, welded lugs, swirly Breguet numerals, and guilloché or enameled dials. They exude the same regal, exalted, masterful feeling as Mikhail Pletnev interpreting Scarlatti on piano. Today’s release […] Visit Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Quill & Pad
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Oct 24, 2024

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M

After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.