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INTRODUCING: The new G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red is a colourful daily wearer for a hard-knock life Time+Tide
Feb 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red is a colourful daily wearer for a hard-knock life

We can all debate what are the best daily wearers, but if the term is based on robustness and reliability there is arguably nothing better than a G-Shock. The Full Metal series elevates the offering from resin cases and straps, to a full stainless-steel build – even titanium in the more premium editions. So far … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new G-Shock Full Metal Rich Red is a colourful daily wearer for a hard-knock life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment SJX Watches
Piaget s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets Feb 2, 2021

Piaget’s Luxury-Sports Watch Gets the Skeleton Treatment

Long in Piaget’s catalogue – the original model was introduced in 1979 – the Polo underwent a significant redesign in 2016, transforming the charmingly 1970s original into the Polo S. Now the brand’s entry into the luxury-sports watch segment has received a major facelift with the Polo Skeleton, which boasts an open-worked movement that gives it a strikingly more distinctive aesthetic. But more than just a new face, the Polo Skeleton is also a step up in terms of wearability and sleekness: the open-worked movement results in a thinner case – one that’s a substantial 3 mm slimmer. The result is a case with proportions rivalling those of the thinnest-ever luxury-sports watch made by a certain Italian jeweller. Initial thoughts The revamp of the Polo five years ago stirred controversy, because the Polo S was a departure from the style of the vintage original, and a turn towards fashionable and predictable designs like the recently discontinued Nautilus. Still, the Polo S did combine strong quality with competitive pricing, explaining its subsequent commercial success. The original controversy means the Polo Skeleton is a better idea. Besides being more original visually, it incorporates many of the brand’s technical strengths. Ultra-thin watches are Piaget’s forte – the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch ever – and the 1200S  skeleton movement reflects that, being extra-thin and extra-revealing. The Polo Skeleton is a mere 6.5 mm high The Polo...

MICRO MONDAYS: A titanium watch for under $500? No, we haven’t been drinking. Meet the Boldr Venture Chaigo… Time+Tide
Boldr Venture Chaigo… Titanium Jan 17, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: A titanium watch for under $500? No, we haven’t been drinking. Meet the Boldr Venture Chaigo…

Titanium: the strong, ultralight metal of the future. Once exclusive to Formula 1 cars and racing bike parts, now you can get hold of it in watch form for less than than $500 in a limited edition with a full titanium bracelet. The Boldr Venture Chaigo might be the world’s best value titanium watch at … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: A titanium watch for under $500? No, we haven’t been drinking. Meet the Boldr Venture Chaigo… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collector Conversations: Shark Tank’s ‘Mr. Wonderful,’ Kevin O’Leary, Reveals Watch Collecting Philosophy To GaryG – Reprise Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe New York Boutique anniversary Jan 17, 2021

Collector Conversations: Shark Tank’s ‘Mr. Wonderful,’ Kevin O’Leary, Reveals Watch Collecting Philosophy To GaryG – Reprise

It’s still all about the people! Nothing makes GaryG happier than getting together and talking watches. At the F.P. Journe New York Boutique anniversary dinner late 2019, he had the pleasure of chatting with entrepreneur, television personality, and enthusiast watch collector Kevin O’Leary. In this post, he comes back to him with specific questions . . . and gets the answers!

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist… Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Jan 14, 2021

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist…

Conor McGregor is a larger-than-life personality within the world of MMA. When you’re as successful as the “The Notorious” Irishman, you can not only afford to strut your stuff in the manner he does, but also spend ludicrous sums of money on watches. Yesterday, McGregor shared a window into his extraordinary life, filming his visit … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock SJX Watches
Jan 1, 2021

Clockwright Introduces the Wind & Water Clock

A self-taught clockmaker in Michigan, Rick Hale has unveiled his latest timekeeping sculpture – Wind & Water. Working under the name Clockwright, Mr Hale specialises in the creation of bespoke, monumental wooden clocks, such as the KL1 introduced in 2018, which stood over 5 ft, or 1.5 m, tall. Initial thoughts One could be forgiven for thinking that Wind & Water is a static work of art rather than a functional, mechanical clock regulated by a pendulum. It’s an illusion created by the disconnected layout of the components and the deceptively simple looking gear train. The Wind & Water is, in fact, both. Naturally, the motion of the pendulum isn’t captured in still photos, and can only appreciated in person. The clock is doubtlessly a dynamic presence in real life: measuring 1.5 m by almost 1 m, it will be hard to miss on the wall. Made almost entirely out of figured cherry that has been aged for several years, the components exhibit varied grain and colour, giving it a nuance impossible with conventional metal parts. Meanwhile, lignum vitae, a dense wood that’s hard wearing and self-lubricating, is used for the bushings and rollers. And unlike metal, wood is isotropic; its strength is directional – strong along its grain, but weaker laterally. As a result, the direction of the grain has to be kept in mind when creating both the mechanical and structural parts of the clock – while also considering the aesthetics of the grain and colour – which calls for an ad...

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona sell Dec 27, 2020

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m?

Nothing over $1 million can really be called a bargain. Particularly when it’s a mere wristwatch from the Swinging Sixties. Yet we all know the stratospheric values paid for Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6241. The first one went for a mind-boggling and (then) world record $17.8 million USD back in 2017. Fast forward to the … ContinuedThe post Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGX343 Dec 24, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement

Is this the perfect everyday tool watch from the Zaratsu wizards? I am seriously baffled by the Grand Seiko SBGX343. This seems to be nothing less than a dynamic amalgamation of our favourite design traits from Grand Seiko and a prominent Swiss crowned supplier of largely unavailable cyclopsed divers’ watches. Our Japanese friends have managed … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bays Dec 22, 2020

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT

Having a relationship with brands and authorised dealers is something any watch collector strives for. If you’re thinking that a quick re-read of How to Make Friends and Influence People will help you with this, we have bad news. This connection is typically developed through purchase history rather than charm, genuine dialogue and friendship. Being a … ContinuedThe post 3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGX341 Dec 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option

Are there any manufacturers that do quartz better than Grand Seiko? The brand, after all, makes their own quartz crystals in-house and upholds them to the most rigorous standards of accuracy – the 9F series of movements, for example, are regulated to run within +/- 10 seconds per year at a minimum. The deviation is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Resistance is useless: Why I simply had to buy the Baltic Bicompax 002 Time+Tide
Baltic Bicompax 002 You know Dec 15, 2020

Resistance is useless: Why I simply had to buy the Baltic Bicompax 002

You know how it is. You spend ages thinking about your next watch – planning, saving, researching, deciding, changing your mind, procrastinating … And then a new release wanders by, flashes its bright shiny dial and you pick it up with hardly a thought. That’s how the sector dial Baltic Bicompax 002 ended up on … ContinuedThe post Resistance is useless: Why I simply had to buy the Baltic Bicompax 002 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review Dec 13, 2020

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review

The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production.  Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture!  Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s.  The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...

Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries) Time+Tide
Richard Mille Dec 9, 2020

Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries)

Being a superstar athlete clearly has its perks. Sure, there is glory within achievements and success found in their respective sport, but if you become such an anchoring presence to a team, such as NBA player James Harden, it also means you receive quite the hefty payday. Harden, who has reportedly amassed more than $224,000,000 … ContinuedThe post Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Limited Edition Dec 7, 2020

Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Limited Edition Review

Chronoswiss is a Lucern based Swiss watchmaking company that was founded in 1983. Created during a time where quartz timepieces were the popular choice for wristwear, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang founded Chronoswiss, as he believed in the timeless fascination of mechanical timepieces.  Chronoswiss was a brand made for visionaries, pioneers, and nonconformists. They were the first brand to miniaturize the regulator into a wristwatch, and then build a whole collection of watches around this design. Chronoswiss is also a specialist when it comes to skeletonised watches. They have been practicing this craft in watchmaking for more than 30 years, while also giving the skeletonised timepieces a modern twist. For Chronoswiss, the process of skeletonising a watch isn’t just simply removing pieces of the dial to see the movement underneath. For this Swiss brand, skeletonisation of a watch is to “highlight the key points such as open-gear trains to cutting away as much as possible to create extremely see-through timepieces”.  The Opus Chronograph is a watch born from Chronoswiss’s expertise in creating aesthetic skeleton timepieces. Introduced in 1995, the Opus Chronograph advanced the skeletonising chapter at Chronoswiss.  The latest 2020 version of the Opus Chronograph has been thoroughly updated. This exceptionally complex 300-part masterpiece has been modernised with new geometric features that fit better on the wrist while also making it more comfortable for everyday wear. The...

Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition Time+Tide
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Nov 26, 2020

Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition

Just as IWC overhauled their Pilot’s collection in 2019, this year is all about the Portugieser collection for the Schaffhausen-based brand. While there are more than a dozen new references within the 2020 lineup, there’s one particular piece that not only captures the new direction of the collection but also encapsulates what IWC does so … ContinuedThe post Complexity made simple with the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: High-Tech LIGA Within the Rolex Daytona Cal. 4130 SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Cal 4130 In-house Nov 17, 2020

Insight: High-Tech LIGA Within the Rolex Daytona Cal. 4130

In-house movements are common in modern watchmaking, and practically the norm at the biggest brands. But new movements are usually developed to replace existing calibres, making 21st century movements with lifespans of decades fairly uncommon. Such mechanical longevity, on the other hand, is only possible with consistently implementing incremental but significant technical upgrades. Perhaps more than others, Rolex has perfected the art of carefully engineered movements that remain in production for many, many years thanks to incremental upgrades. The sheer scale of Rolex as a manufacture doubtlessly plays a big role in making that possible. Producing close to a million watches a year, according to estimates by banks Vontobel and Morgan Stanley – and owning almost all of its distribution and after-sales service network – Rolex certainly possesses tremendous data on the performance of its movements over prolonged, real-world use. Such information would be invaluable boosting the performance of its movements as well as extending the longevity of the calibre designs. The Cosmograph calibre One such long-lived movement is the cal. 4130 that debuted inside the Cosmograph Daytona in 2000. Over its two decade production run, the chronograph calibre – featuring both a column wheel and vertical clutch – has undergone four key technical updates according to Rolex, all of which are found in the cal. 4130s produced today. [And any Daytona with earlier versions of the cal. 41...

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner Quill & Pad
Nov 5, 2020

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine turning), skeletonizing, and more. Which make comparisons between the different crafts extremely difficult. But our five panelists accept the challenge and come up with three predicted winners.

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panelists Are Split For A Winner (Again) Quill & Pad
Nov 3, 2020

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panelists Are Split For A Winner (Again)

The GPHG foundation’s rules for the Jewellery category state that the watches must demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gem setting. This is an especially difficult category to judge from still photos as you really need to touch and manipulate the jewelry and see the gems reflecting from different angles. Our panelists settle on two favorites as top contenders despite the fact that they haven't had a chance to handle these treasures.

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Edition Celebrity watch spotting Oct 28, 2020

Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition

Celebrity watch spotting is a pastime of watch enthusiasts - there is something more genuine about a watch in the wild on a famous wrist than a planted timepiece as part of a contractual ambassadorship. While many opt for flashy precious metal and gemstone-covered watches to convey a sense of status and success that ties … ContinuedThe post Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 1 – The yellow gold Patek Philippe Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Anton Suhanov Introduces the Lotus Triple-Axis Tourbillon Clock SJX Watches
Cartier Oct 27, 2020

Anton Suhanov Introduces the Lotus Triple-Axis Tourbillon Clock

Russian clockmaker Anton Suhanov has just unveiled his next table clock, one that is even more monumental than his preceding creation, last year’s Alexandria lighthouse-inspired Pharos. Standing on a long, thin stem, the Lotus is a flower-like clock with a triple-axis tourbillon within a sphere enclosed by metallic petals. Running for 14 days when fully wound, the clock is also an automaton – the petals open and close slowly in a 12-hour cycle, much like a real flower. Initial thoughts A feat like this inevitably costs a substantial amount of money – €45,000 in this case – but it is worth every euro, because the clock is incredible, and there is nothing else like it. Mr Suhanov makes almost the entire clock himself in his workshop – and there is a lot of clock. Beyond the obvious features, namely the world time within the base and the intricate yet organic triple-axis tourbillon at the top, the mechanism of the clock is ingenious and intriguing. Like the mystery clocks Maurice Couet invented for Cartier, the tourbillon is driven by a long, narrow pinion, one so long it runs all the way up the stem. Beyond the mechanics, the clocks is also impressive for its design, which manages to blend organic forms and colours with vast expanses of metal, resulting in an appealing, sci-fi aesthetic. Night and day The central feature of the clock is within seven petals made of rhodium-plated brass, which function as a day and night indicator. Fully open at midday, the petal...

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Deployant
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” DEPLOYANT Oct 24, 2020

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith  collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted  the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time. Only Read More

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model Time+Tide
Massena Lab MB&F; Oct 22, 2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F; and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the … ContinuedThe post Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 22, 2020

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One

Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...

Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin Blast Highly Volatile Explosive Oct 21, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive

Ulysse Nardin offers the Blast in five different case versions, and each of these case materials has great impact on the look of the individual watch. In most watches, ceramic cases provide an edgy feel that Martin Green thinks often makes them look better than their metal-encased siblings. Not so with the Blast, he feels. Check out all of his thoughts on this new watch here.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Oct 19, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue

A proven trend within the world of watches is for brands to reinterpret historic models within their archives for modern-day release. Seiko has revived and renewed one of their classic ’70s divers with the new Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. ⁣ The case While slightly larger than the original, the Seiko Prospex SPB183J … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money Time+Tide
Oct 19, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money

It seems like every week, another Kickstarter microbrand comes forward with its own take on a diving watch. Some of these are more successful than others, but the one certainty is that in order to stand out, companies have to increasingly  think outside the box. AUDRIC Watches have done so with the home-run combination of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: AUDRIC SeaBorne 500 M is a proper spec MONSTER for the money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective SJX Watches
Oct 18, 2020

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective

I recently had a wide-ranging conversation with a fellow collector during which the following question was raised: is it possible for one watch to be objectively better than another? While pondering this question, I was reminded of Euthyphro, a Socratic dialogue written by Plato.  The “TL;DR” version is this: Plato asks Euthyphro if he can provide a definition of piety. Euthyphro responds with a clear-cut example of piety, but Plato is unsatisfied. He responds that an example is not enough; he wants the underlying rules that define piety, those by which Euthyphro chose his example. So it is with watches. We can all point to examples of great watches, and to some extent we can defend these examples with some kind of justification. But it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to articulate a set of criteria that can be applied universally – a necessary precondition of truly objective comparison. But as an exercise, I think it’s worth exploring in what ways, specifically, watch collecting defies objective analysis so that we can understand the limitations of this way of thinking.  Defining objectivity Objectivity is, according to the Cambridge Dictionary, “the quality of being able to make a decision or judgment in a fair way that is not influenced by personal feelings or beliefs”. Objectively, there’s not much more to a watch than its size, shape, colour, materials, and functions. A lot of the criteria collectors use to make value judgements about watches ...