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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space Fratello
IWC Watches Sep 30, 2024

Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space

Four IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Polaris Dawn” models in white ceramic with space-blue dials are back on Earth. Along with their wearers, they launched from NASA’s Kennedy Space Center in Florida at 05:23 EDT on September 10th, 2024. The four members of the crew and their watches safely splashed down off the coast of […] Visit Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sep 29, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 90: Formex and Fears Focus on Fun (Complications)

On episode 90 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers three exciting and fun new releases, two of which have uncommon complications. First up is the new Formex Stratos UTC, which while being a GMT, operates unexpectedly. Next, is the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, a non-limited version of the watch they released with Christopher Ward a few years back. Lastly, we have the Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon, which continues the brand’s playful take on pilot instrumentation. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe. This episode was sponsored by Sternglas and their new Naos Pro Automatik Watch. As a special feature with this release, early buyers can secure a gold-toned Miyota 9015 movement. Head to sternglas.com to learn more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 90: Formex and Fears Focus on Fun (Complications) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Last Sep 29, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

Last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown saw two very dressy watches pitted against each other. We continue the formal streak this week but in a much more wallet-friendly manner. These two dressy numbers were positively received here at Fratello, even if they don’t represent the ultimate in horology. The big question today is: if you want […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 29, 2024

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

There are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, and then there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. For GaryG the Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain falls into the third category, so much so that it became a running joke for a friend to pantomime a “smelling salts” motion as a signal for Gary to pull up his sleeve and jolt him back to attention. Here he explains why he bought this new classic watch.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Marathon Sep 26, 2024

Enthusiast Spotlight: Navy Diver Brock Stevens Takes on Marathon’s New OSAR-D

For this latest edition of our ongoing Enthusiast Spotlight series, we’re excited to introduce you to 2nd Class Petty Officer Brock Stevens, a Navy Diver with over 5 years of active duty experience. During his service, he’s accumulated more than 9,000 minutes of bottom time. He is currently stationed at the MARMC Dive Locker in Norfolk, VA, and serves as a Ship Husbandry Repair Specialist, maintaining aircraft carriers, submarines, and other surface ships. As a proud co-founder of the MARMC Dive Locker ROV team, Brock leads a group dedicated to utilizing cutting-edge ROVs for underwater inspections and retrievals. Outside of his military role, Brock is a tool watch enthusiast with an ever-growing collection of dive watches. Additionally, he’s passionate about photography and pursues this passion by documenting his adventures, watches, and EDC on Instagram as @deepsea.edc. For this edition, we’ve equipped him with Marathon’s brand new reissue of the first of their iconic SAR line. The watch famously featured a MIL-SPEC Type I dial with a cyclops date. It relaunches today as the 41mm OSAR-D (Original Search and Rescue with Date). Hey Brock, Thanks for joining us for this latest edition of Enthusiast Spotlight. Tell us a little bit about yourself and what you do for a living. My name is Brock Stevens. I’m a US Navy diver. I’ve been a diver for a little over five years now as a Ships Husbandry Specialist working on repairing aircraft carriers and submarines. When...

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zenith Sep 25, 2024

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition

Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations.  The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal.  For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...

Hublot Returns to Mineral Stone Dials with Classic Fusion Elements II SJX Watches
Hublot Returns Sep 25, 2024

Hublot Returns to Mineral Stone Dials with Classic Fusion Elements II

Two years ago Hublot introduced mineral stone dials for the first time and now the brand has returned to Earth’s rare natural stones – and one from elsewhere in the galaxy – with the Classic Fusion Elements II. As with the first edition, the Elements II is a limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass made up of five different models, each sporting a dial of mineral stone: pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite. The Elements II is based on Hublot’s signature time-only watch, a minimalist design with the trademark porthole-shaped bezel and case. With just three hands and no date, plus the Hublot logo in gold-powder print, the dial is a blank slate that allows the grain of each mineral stone to stand out. Turquoise Initial thoughts Hublot does two things well, the minimalist, classic Hublot, and artist collaborations, particularly the recent Daniel Arsham and earlier Takashi Murakami. The Elements II is essentially a classic Hublot with a mineral stone dial free of any markings save for the brand logo in gilt print. The clean aesthetic of the dial is maximised to show off the natural graining of various mineral stones. The case is unusual for being entirely in polished titanium, and also two-tone thanks to 18k gold accents, but it’s a perfect complement to the colours of the mineral stone dials. Lunar meteorite This might seem surprising given the clean styling of the watch, but the stone dials would have arguably been even ...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Jaeger-LeCoultre Sep 25, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Sep 24, 2024

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches

There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point.  The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...

Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 24, 2024

Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review

Sophomore releases are always tricky business. Just ask Depeche Mode, or Kiss. An innovative or evocative debut sound before the artist has really had a chance to flesh out their own voice can lead to unrealistic expectations from fans. Small, independent watch brands face a similar challenge, often expressing an exciting vision for a single watch without a firm framework to expand upon. This isn’t always the case, however, and just like Pearl Jam or The Strokes, there are some emerging watch brands with freshman success that manage an equally compelling follow-up vision. This is exactly what New York-based Lorca, founded by Swiss-Canadian Jesse Marchant, is looking to do with its new Model 2 Chronograph, hot on the heels of their popular initial release, the Model 1 GMT. The visionary behind the brand, Jesse Marchant, is also a recording artist, and is no stranger to the process. The Model 1 GMT was a revelation when it was first revealed in early 2023. The design was subtle, and the execution well considered. All the little details worked, and it was a watch that managed to find its own style and identity in a sea of watches that had neither. The Model 1 didn’t break any new ground mechanically, but it did present a unique vision that touched on multiple genre points in a cohesive manner. It also featured a somewhat polarizing bezel that would ultimately add to the depth of its character. Beyond that, the bracelet, case, and overall fit and finish of the watch unders...

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Streamliner Sep 24, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Streamliner Chronograph in Red for Cortina

In celebration of its partnership with its retailer in Southeast Asia, H. Moser & Cie. has created the 20-piece Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Cortina Watch. Based on its signature sports chronograph, right down to the “lobster” bracelet, the Cortina edition gets a striking red fumé dial with an “invisible” Moser logo. Initial thoughts Though the Streamliner is one of Moser’s strongest sellers, the brand hasn’t done that many limited editions of the Streamliner chronograph, so it’s not a theme that’s been overdone. As a result, the Cortina edition stands out as one of the few iterations of the model. And it also stands out in tangible terms: the red dial sets this apart from past Streamliner Chronographs that were all dressed in darker colours. At the same time, the smoked red dial is different from the usual dark blue or grey that’s the norm for integrated-bracelet sports watches. More generally, collaborative timepieces are often marked with various logos, front and back, in an unambiguous illustration of the collaboration. In case of the Cortina edition, however, subtlety wins the day. The retailer’s logo has been omitted, and even the Moser logo is barely visible on the dial. The timepiece speaks for itself, rather than the collaboration, which is a good thing. Priced at 83,000 Singapore dollars (or about US$64,000), the Streamliner Cortina edition costs about 8% more than the regular production in local currency terms (which include taxes). Given...

Fratello On Air: In-Depth Watch Research And Myth Busting Fratello
Sep 24, 2024

Fratello On Air: In-Depth Watch Research And Myth Busting

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air! We apologize for missing last week, but travel and visitors got in the way. This week, we’re discussing watch research, the time it takes, and the self-satisfaction obtained when uncovering a new fact. It’s another nerdy episode, but recording was a lot of fun. For our […] Visit Fratello On Air: In-Depth Watch Research And Myth Busting to read the full article.