Time+Tide
This is how Hamilton became Hollywood’s go-to watch brand
From Shanghai Express to Dune, Hamilton is the movie watch brand.The post This is how Hamilton became Hollywood’s go-to watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Habring² Pilot Watches: A Tale of Two Fun (and Rare) Complications
My journey with Habring² started back in 2009 when my girlfriend (now wife) and I decided to spend a cozy weekend in Vienna. At the time, I was living and working in Prague, thus it was an easy drive to Vienna. On a chilly November morning, after a delightful breakfast, we wandered through the city. That’s when I noticed these enormous banners showcasing various watch brands for an event called Vienna Time. Among them was a banner for Habring². I had been a fan of the brand but had never seen any of their watches in person. So, I jumped at the chance to visit and meet the brand’s founders, Richard and Maria Habring. Fast forward to today, after knowing the Habrings for so many years, I can honestly say they are some of the most down-to-earth and caring people you’ll ever meet. And it shows in their watchmaking too. I like to call it “honest watchmaking.” Their watches are reasonably priced, especially considering the various complications they offer. Even the packaging is charmingly unpretentious-a compact wooden box that simply says, “made with love.” In this box, the Habrings also include spare parts necessary for the first service with our preferred local watchmaker-a practical consideration. The Habrings do not like to discuss Richard’s past accomplishments at various big brands like IWC and Lange. However, they are well documented online. As a primer, I would recommend reading this Hodinkee article by Jason Heaton, and this WatchProZine write-up ...
SJX Watches
Norqain Introduces Flagship Skeleton Flyback Chronograph
The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam. Initial thoughts The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model. The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high. The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practica...
Time+Tide
Breguet’s Type XX Civilian 2067 is now available in gold with a first-ever ceramic bezel insert
The 18k rose gold Type XX 2067RK/Y0/9WU marks the first time the Breguet brand has ever used ceramic for the externals of a watch.The post Breguet’s Type XX Civilian 2067 is now available in gold with a first-ever ceramic bezel insert appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
WatchCharts September 2024 Watch Market Update: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Holding Value, TAG Heuer Less So
The WatchCharts Overall Market Index saw its largest monthly drop so far this year in August, losing 1.0% of its value. The last time we reported this index losing more than 1% of its value in a single calendar month was in November 2023.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rado Over-Pole Review
In 2022, Rado re-released the Over-Pole as a limited edition of 1,965 pieces. The diameter remains as svelte as the original at 37mm. The height of the case is 10.4mm, and the lug-to-lug is 43mm. The lug width is 19mm, and it has a water resistance rating of 100m, though it does not have a screw-down crown. The case is fully polished. Interestingly, Rado chose to use a manually-wound movement for this reissue, rather than the automatic movement an original Over-Pole would have used. The movement is known as the Rado R862, and is modified from a Powermatic 80 found in other Swatch group watches. It has 80 hours of power reserve, and the Nivachron hairspring to increase its anti-magnetic properties. The movement is well finished, and can be seen through the watch’s transparent caseback.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch. Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard. Initial thoughts The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement. The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on. The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well. And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that...
Time+Tide
6 questions to ask yourself before buying a watch
Even if you think you know everything, we would recommend asking yourself the following questions before you purchase a watch.The post 6 questions to ask yourself before buying a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Military-Inspired Pilot Watches, Versatile EDC Carryall, and Great Deal on ADPT
The post Military-Inspired Pilot Watches, Versatile EDC Carryall, and Great Deal on ADPT appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g goes Salm0n fishing, now with a Swiss monopusher movement
Studio Underd0g brings a Swiss movement to the catalogue in the new Series03 monopusher chronograph Salm0n.The post Studio Underd0g goes Salm0n fishing, now with a Swiss monopusher movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Six More Budget-Friendly Novelties from Geneva Watch Days 2024
Last week’s selection of novelties from Geneva Watch Days were our personal picks from everything new we’ve seen during our stay in the Swiss capital. Looking back at the list, we stand by our choices, but one thing stood out: all but one watch cost tens of thousands of euros, if not more. While that’s […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGH347 Vs. Rolex Datejust 36 Ref. 126200
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for breakfast with a classic Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head to head with two great mid-sized daily wearers from Rolex and Grand Seiko. One is the latest generation of the classic 36mm Rolex Datejust with a domed bezel. It will go up against […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGH347 Vs. Rolex Datejust 36 Ref. 126200 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Reviewed by Tim Mosso
One of the best parts of the Patek Philippe 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a caseback spectacle. Watch carefully, and the chronograph minutes jumper displays action that corresponds to the dial-side instant jumping chrono minute
Time+Tide
New releases from Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Chronoswiss and more
Not just one, but two watches dedicated to sailing have just been announced. Both Hublot and Panerai presented two maritime-themed timepieces. In addition, Omega’s Constellation collection has been greatly expanded and Ulysse Nardin is introducing a colourful collaboration using the Freak as a platform. Discover our full selection here below and let us know what … ContinuedThe post New releases from Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Chronoswiss and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko 45GS limited edition
Grand Seiko introduces two new limited edition timepieces, the SLGW004 and SLGW005, which pay homage to the iconic 45GS model first introduced in 1968. These watches reintroduces the iconic Seiko - Grand Seiko dial on a 45GS case and with the new hand-wound movement.
Hodinkee
Why Jaeger-LeCoultre's Latest Traveling Collection Is Worth Your Time
With stops in NYC and Los Angeles, "The Precision Pioneer" offers a unique chance to see watchmaking at the highest level and without a trip to Switzerland.
![[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better?](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/09/C05A4290.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better?
Tudor has been on a roll this year with new additions to the Black Bay Chronograph collection. Just a few weeks ago, they dropped a new addition to its Black Bay Chronograph lineup: the Blue Boutique Edition. Since I recently picked up the pink dial variant, naturally I wanted to get my hands on the blue and see how it stacks up against my current favorite. Both models bring something unique to the table, but should you go out of your way to pick up either? Let me see if I can encourage some of ya’ll to come to the dark side with me! Starting with the classic (and widely available) Black Bay Chronograph, I had a chance to wear the white panda version a few months ago, and while I appreciated its solid build and good looks, something about it wasn’t quite right. I’ll be the first to admit that I am attracted to the Black Bay Chrono because of its similarities to its “big sister” chronograph, the Rolex Daytona. Since I’m not willing to pay gray market prices and getting one at retail is a grail move in itself, I’ve always considered the BB Chrono a solid alternative. I was super excited Tudor lent me the white panda as I had never gone hands on with one for more than 5 minutes. Upon putting it on my wrist I was totally down with the look of the thicker chronograph but something just wasn’t sitting right (literally). The oyster bracelet just felt too heavy for my taste and bulky in nature. I also found the lack of on-the-fly adjustability frustrating in the ...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More
Another Friday, another list! This week, we enter the wonderful world of the El Primero movement. As most of you know, Zenith introduced its famous El Primero trio of watches in 1969. The brand was part of the illustrious race to release the first automatic chronograph, competing with Seiko and the consortium of brands formed […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic El Primero-Powered Watches - Featuring Zenith, Ebel, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
Deployant
New & Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon
So you think that you have seen everything from Bell & Ross' BR-03, think again! Presenting the latest Bell & Ross BR-03 Horizon which transposes one of the most iconic flight instruments, the Artificial Horizon from an aircraft's dashboard onto the wrist.
Fratello
Why Rolex Losing Its Formula 1 Sponsorship Role May Be A Long-Term Win
They say money can’t buy you happiness, but pretty much everything else is for sale - especially when you have super deep pockets. LVMH stepping into Formula 1 in 2025 for a rumored annual sum of US$150 million is proof of that. Rolex has sponsored the biggest motorsport circus on Earth since 2011. Initially, the […] Visit Why Rolex Losing Its Formula 1 Sponsorship Role May Be A Long-Term Win to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Dubai Watch Week’s Horology Forum in Hong Kong October 2024
Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is set to host the 10th edition of its Horology Forum in Hong Kong October 22-24, 2024. Titled HF.10, the event will take place at Christie’s expansive new premises at skyscraper The Henderson in Hong Kong’s Central business district. As is typical for DWW, HF.10 will comprise panel discussions, classes, and various exhibitions. Amongst the speakers at the panel discussions will be watch influencer Carson Chan, journalist Robin Swithinbank, TAG Heuer director of heritage Nicholas Biebuyck, Benoît Mintiens of Ressence, and our founder SJX. The lectures will include Tim Mosso of The 1916 Company (formerly known as Watchbox) discussing the evolution of the watch industry over the past 300 years. And the event will also offer classes on topics as diverse as automata, tea blending, and Chinese calligraphy. A panel discussion at DWW 2023 While Dubai Watch Week itself traditionally takes place in the Emirate every two years, the event migrates to an international city in the years in-between. The last time the event took place outside Dubai was in 2022 when it landed in New York, and before that London in 2018. Admission to HF.10 is free though registration is required. Find out more on Dubaiwatchweek.com.
Time+Tide
Norqain’s new flyback chronograph calibre debuts in two Independence watches
The debuting 8K manufacture flyback chronograph calibre inside the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm ushers in the next chapter of Norqain.The post Norqain’s new flyback chronograph calibre debuts in two Independence watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Tissot Introduces Compelling new PRX References that Play with Materials and Colors in New Ways
Confession time: I’ve long been something of a Tissot PRX skeptic. The ultra popular watches have found a wide and enthusiastic audience, but for me they always seemed just a little too much like a Royal Oak homage. I know, I know – they are based on watches from the Tissot back catalog and a side by side comparison reveals plenty of obvious differences. It’s a somewhat irrational position, perhaps, but they feel a little too close for comfort if observed from a distance. But Tissot recently revealed a pair of new watches in the PRX line that took me by surprise in how much I was immediately drawn to them, and taken together they are possibly the most unconventional and visually striking watches in this collection to date. There’s a huge variety of PRX watches out there – it’s a line that has become the centerpiece of Tissot’s expansive catalog in recent years. There are quartz and mechanical versions of these watches in multiple sizes (40mm and 35mm), as well as a mechanical chronograph. Tissot has also made the PRX in a dizzying array of colors, with gold plated case options as well. The newly introduced variants fall in the PRX Powermatic 80 camp, so they feature Tissot’s 80 hour automatic movement, and each comes in at the 40mm size. The release that seemed to garner the most traction from the most online members of the watch community was the new PRX with a forged carbon case. This is the first time forged carbon has been used in a PRX, and it imme...
Worn & Wound
Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection
“Attesa” is an Italian word that means “expectation” or “anticipation.” Since 1987, it has been the home of Citizen’s next-generation watches, where its expertise in processing titanium and employing innovative technologies exceeds expectations and anticipates the future. Think of it as their E-Class; anecdotally, Mercedes’ E-Class is the first to receive all the latest bells and whistles, which are later incorporated into the other model lines. Speaking of bells and whistles, Attesa is launching two new world-time chronographs for 2024, both packed with a wide range of features and functions. The first is the CC4059-64L, a 44.6mm Super Titanium timepiece featuring an ultra-hard black Duratect DLC coated case. Its dial features blue-violet vertical striping, while the subdials and rehaut are black. Its bezel matches the color of the dial, and the city names are applied using a special vapor deposition process to create a reflective silver color. The second is the CC4074-61W, which utilizes the same case, bracelet, and black Duratect DLC coating. However, this model features a sunburst charcoal dial with black subdials and rehaut and a black sapphire bezel with city names in pink gold. Pink gold also appears on the bezel edges, hands, applied markers, the edges of the subdials, and the date window. Powering these high-tech pieces is the state-of-the-art Citizen caliber F950. This movement can receive a satellite-correcting signal in just 3 seconds, which is ...
Fratello
#TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed
An opisometer is a small instrument with a tiny gear wheel integrated into its edge that you run along a surface to measure the length of curved lines on topographic maps, charts, schemes, and plans. It’s also called a map measurer, meilograph, or curvimeter, and believe it or not, someone made it into a watch […] Visit #TBT A Triangular Unicorn Dulux Curvimetre Finally Landed to read the full article.
Deployant
Review: Hercules HP Watch in Tantalum with Ice Blue Dial
Review of the Hercules HP Tantalum. I have brought the watch back to Western Australia (WA) with me for an adventure. Here are our honest thoughts.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical
The very first wristwatch François-Paul Journe created was the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité – three prototypes were made in 1993 and he retained the very first example. Arguably the most famous F.P. Journe wristwatch alongside the Résonance, the tourbillon has since evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, which is likely the final version of the watchmaker’s take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Conceived for chronometric utility as a wristwatch, the Tourbillon Vertical, or “TV” for short, is the latest iteration of Mr Journe’s interpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s invention. It was launched in 2019 for the 20th anniversary of the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. The vertical tourbillon sits in a countersink with mirror-polished sides The Tourbillon Vertical retains the signature double feature of the original F.P. Journe tourbillon, namely a tourbillon regulator and a remontoir d’egalite, or constant force device. But while the prototype and all subsequent iterations of the F.P. Journe tourbillon had a flat tourbillon on the same plane as the movement, the Tourbillon Vertical is self-descriptive. Its tourbillon sits perpendicular to the movement, with both the carriage and balance wheel standing at a 90° angle to the plane of the dial. In sophistication, finish, materials, and even size, the Tourbillon Vertical is far removed from the 1993 prototypes. Yet it is quintessential F.P. Journe in its elegant, concise technical approach while al...
Fratello
Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More
The flyback function is arguably the epitome of technicality in sports watches, and it can be an expensive collection goal. Many of you will know the snap-quick function from Patek Philippe and über-horology from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne. However, as manufacturing techniques improve, so does the possibility of (comparatively) affordable flyback chronographs. […] Visit Accessible Flyback Chronographs: Five Value Propositions Well Under €10K From Longines, Sinn, Frederique Constant, And More to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair: Wrap Up and Industry Outlook
The 43rd Hong Kong Watches and Clocks Exhibition closed its analog doors on Sunday, September 7th at the end of six intense days. Marton Radkai sums up with his final report from the fair.
Worn & Wound
Hanhart’s Long Awaited Preventor HD12
While it can often feel like the watch industry today is an arms race of sorts to see who can come out with the best, brightest, and flashiest, it’s a nice respite to see a watch that is built with simplicity in mind. That, to me, is embodied in the Hanhart Preventor HD12, the newest reference from the German brand. While the name Preventor may sound like a prescription I took while I was single, it is, in fact, a successor to the already-established Pioneer model from Hanhart. You can see elements such as the stripped-down dial and case shared between the collections. While the Pioneer models may have promoted simplicity within the brand, it’s the Preventor which has shown restraint. With a decidedly Spartan design, the decoration on this watch is in the hands and the use of the vintage-style Hanhart logo, making this a distraction-free watch that isn’t running the risk of being overdesigned. At its core, this watch is meant to be a daily wearer, able to blend in with whatever outfit or occasion and that means all the bells and whistles are reserved for, say, Hanhart’s Primus collection. Customers can choose between a black or blue dial, both a cohesive design choice against the 39 mm steel case. And about that steel, I’d be remiss to not mention the HD12 steel used, for which the Preventor was named after. This particular steel is created through introducing carbon into the stainless steel alloy, which in turn increases the hardness of the case’s surface ...