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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Aug 28, 2024

Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic

In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration Aug 27, 2024

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone

Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection.  The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout.  While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 27, 2024

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.  

IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Patrouille Suisse SJX Watches
IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Aug 27, 2024

IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Patrouille Suisse

Continuing with its series of editions made for the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatic team, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is a clean, no-frills watch based on IWC’s entry-level pilot’s watch. A limited edition of 250 pieces, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is the fifth edition dedicated to the aerobatics team. This has two notable features that set it apart from the regular production Mark XX. First, the case is entirely in matte titanium instead of stainless steel. Secondly, the dial is sunburst-brushed slate grey rather than black or blue. Initial thoughts As one of IWC’s bestsellers, the Mark XX is a modern take on the historical IWC pilot’s watch. It’s relatively affordable and an easily wearable 40 mm. The standard Mark XX sticks to the standard template, so it isn’t that interesting. The Patrouille Suisse edition, on the other hand, is different enough to be interesting, but not so much that it loses the recognisable styling. The lightweight, low-key titanium case is particularly fitting for a pilot’s watch, both in terms of visuals and feel. And the grey dial adds a bit of nuance to an otherwise monochromatic look, though it could have been better without the date. Priced at US$6,500, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse doesn’t cost too much more than the standard model, which makes it a compelling alternative. Admittedly the cal. 32111 inside is one of IWC’s most economical movements, but it is acceptable for the price. Shades of grey Ent...

Orient Bambino 38 Expands with Fresh New Colors and Versatile Steel Bracelet Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Aug 27, 2024

Orient Bambino 38 Expands with Fresh New Colors and Versatile Steel Bracelet

While Orient's Bambino series has built its reputation as an ultimate bang-for-the-buck final destination for every automatic dress watch wannabe, the new additions to the Bambino 38 collection only further reinforce this claim. In 2022, the company released a baby Bambino in the form of the Bambino 38-a slightly smaller and unisex version of the rather notably famous 40.5mm sibling-still aiming at that smaller customer group wanting something dressier, a bit more versatile, and refined. Now, with three new dial colors and a steel bracelet hitting the market, the Bambino 38 has some serious potential to wow a fresh new audience.

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl SJX Watches
Citizen s Affordable Series 8 Aug 27, 2024

Citizen’s Affordable Series 8 GMT in Mother-of-Pearl

Having already debuted a thoughtful reissue of a pocket watch for its centenary, Citizen is continuing with the commemorative editions with something more affordable: the Series 8 880 100th Anniversary. Featuring a second time zone function and integrated bracelet, the watch has a tone-tone finish of brushed steel and blue-coated steel, matched with a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Initial thoughts The Series 8 GMT is most notable for being a “true” GMT – with an independently adjustable hour hand – at an affordable price point. It retails for just under US$2,000, and most GMT watches in this price segment have an add-on GMT function of an adjustable 24-hour hand instead. While the standard versions of the Series 8 GMT are in familiar GMT colours, including a blue and red “Pepsi” version, this anniversary edition is unusual with the blue case treatment and sky-blue mother-of-pearl dial. For someone who wants an affordable, functional dual time zone that looks different, this is a competitive proposition. A true-blue GMT The Series 8 GMT has a two-part case construction that allows for the unusual two-tone finish of grey and blue. A central section that’s coated blue slots into the case middle, giving it the twin blue flanks on either side of the bezel. Measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.5 mm high, the case is entirely steel, with the blue components coated to achieve the blue finish. Like the other Series 8 models, this has alternating brushed and polished fin...

A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom After talking Aug 26, 2024

A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom

After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous […] Visit A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” Fratello
Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Aug 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy”

Welcome to this Sunday Morning Showdown “Summer Edition.” Last week, we put two high-end golden travel timers up against each other. This week, two stainless steel divers from the more affordable side of the watch spectrum will battle it out. Both the Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” and the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC (short for […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko SRPE05 “King Turtle” Vs. Certina DS Super PH1000M “Sea Turtle Conservancy” to read the full article.

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More Fratello
Omega Credor Aug 24, 2024

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More

Let’s face it: 2024 didn’t come loaded with optimism from brands, so we weren’t expecting big changes. Watches and Wonders was filled with evolutionary timepieces and studied tweaks, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far caught us napping. It might have taken less to surprise me this fairly quiet year, but I’ve still […] Visit More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More to read the full article.

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen Worn & Wound
Tissot connect Aug 23, 2024

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen

How does a vintage Tissot connect to Felipe Pikullik and some of the watch world’s most exciting and dynamic young independent watchmakers and brands? If you said through Dutch collector Niels Pedersen, you’d be very much on the right track. Take a quick look over at Niels’s Instagram (@nielsmpe) and you’ll be greeted by a genuinely envy-inducing assortment of watches. Even more remarkable? That each and every watch feels totally at home in Niels’s feed, whether he’s posting a one-of-a-kind piece from an under-the-radar indie, or his latest pickup from Seiko. So what does a collector like Niels look for in a watch? Well, it turns out it’s a pretty simple recipe. “Basically, I’m design-driven, so it has to be aesthetically pleasing. So that’s the first… and I want something that’s simple, fixable, and reliable because I’ve been sending watches back and forth to the manufacturer so many times,” he told me. “Design-driven and something that’s reliable, I’d say.”   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Niels Pedersen (@nielsmpe) Just because it’s easy to express doesn’t mean this simple philosophy wasn’t a lesson learned over time. The path that transformed Niels into the collector he is today started at a young age, with a little help from his mother. “When I was a kid, my mom used to travel to Asia all the time for work, and every time she would come home, she would have some kind of knockoff watch, either with Porsche o...