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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Continuing Aug 9, 2024

Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art

Continuing its recent run of watches dedicated to great art and ancient cultures, Vacheron Constantin (VC) now turns to the decorative symbolism of Imperial China. The Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols “Eternal Flow” and “Moonlight Slivers” are a pair of elaborately decorated watches inspired by 海水江崖纹, or “seawater, river, and cliff”, a highly symbolic motif employed during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Executed in a variety of decorative techniques, the dials of the Métiers d’Art pair are subtle reinterpretations of the traditional motif. “Eternal Flow” is rendered in vivid cloisonné enamel and the more striking of the duo. “Moonlight Slivers”, on the other hand, is set with diamonds but presents a more restrained, stylised take on the pattern. “Eternal Flow” Initial thoughts VC has a good track record at reproducing art on its watch dials. The Les Cabinotiers “Thunder God” and “Wind God” is a prime example of that. The Tribute to Traditional Symbols are similarly successful, though each of the pair is distinct from the other. “Moonlight Slivers” is almost low-key with its dark blue enamel, though the diamond setting gives it a bit of glamour. It also feels more modern. At a distance the motif appears almost geometric and abstract, particularly in this monochromatic execution. “Moonlight Slivers” In contrast, “Eternal Flow” is full Technicolour with the Imperial robe motif in all its glory. It’s almo...

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Discovering Hentschel Watches, One of German Watchmaking’s Best Kept Secrets Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2024

Discovering Hentschel Watches, One of German Watchmaking’s Best Kept Secrets

Hentschel has been on my radar for a while, and I followed the watch company casually for many years – until a mutual friend living in Berlin made the introduction. My curiosity level spiked, and I was ready for a deep dive into the background, manufacturing, watches, and everything that is Hentschel.  A Brief Overview of Hentschel Andreas Hentschel is the watchmaker and founder of Hentschel, based in Hamburg, Germany. Established in 1993, Hentschel has garnered a decent reputation for its craftsmanship and producing high quality mechanical wristwatches. A majority of the watches feature manual winding movements and sub-seconds on the dial. The design is reminiscent of classic pocket watches, but with complex case construction and colorful dials, they appear refined modern. Under the expert guidance of Andreas Hentschel, the family-owned workshop consists of a team of four skilled watchmakers that produce approximately 150 watches annually. According to Andreas, this limited production approach maintains the highest standards of craftsmanship and ensures that every Hentschel watch remains unique. In-House Movements Before I provide you my impression of two watches that I test drove for a month, I would like to address Hentschel’s in-house movements. Hentschel refers to the HUW 1130 S caliber as a “in-house manufactory movement.” Without going into the definition of in-house, Andreas is upfront about it being based on the Swiss A-Schild manually winding 1130 moveme...

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Building A One-Watch Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 8, 2024

Building A One-Watch Collection

Sometimes, our editorial meetings produce the sort of nerdy, off-topic conversations that make us pause and say, "Wait, this should be an article." Okay, more than sometimes. As our team grows, it's become clearer that we should be sharing our takes (hot, cold, or lukewarm) here on the site for your reading pleasure – or just to stir the pot a bit. Today's topic of choice is the idea of expressing what we each would consider to be a one-watch collection. It's important to note that these picks are purely subjective and derive from the minds of our editorial staff. Our hope is that this thought exercise gets you thinking about what a one-watch collection might look like for you. So with that in mind, enjoy this story and let us know what you think of our choices in the comments! Danny Milton, VP of Content Not to spoil anything, but the team really went for it with the picks in our first real editor’s roundup here at Teddy. It’s hard to argue with any of the choices because – well – they represent the tastes and opinions of each individual writer. My approach to something like a one-watch collection is complex, perhaps unnecessarily so. My instinct tells me to go Rolex, but then I start to think about scenarios in my life in which I think “maybe I am not comfortable with a Rolex here.” It does happen. So then my mind delves into the more attainable price segment where I want to identify something bulletproof, something that packs undeniable value. If you’re ...

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Watches you fly, travel, and swim with, along with EDC tools you write and cut with. We’ve got companions for you! Worn & Wound
Aug 7, 2024

Watches you fly, travel, and swim with, along with EDC tools you write and cut with. We’ve got companions for you!

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly overview of the newest and best watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We have carefully selected various items to suit everyone’s style and budget. Click the links below to find out more and make a purchase. The Windup Watch Team is available to advise you and address any queries. Furthermore, all these products qualify for free domestic shipping within the US. Watches you fly, travel, and swim with, along with EDC tools you write and cut with. We’ve got companions for you! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly overview of the newest and best watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We have carefully selected various items to suit everyone’s style and budget. Click the links below to find out more and make a purchase. The Windup Watch Team is available to advise you and address any queries. Furthermore, all these products qualify for free domestic shipping within the US. Watches you fly, travel, and swim with, along with EDC tools you write and cut with. We’ve got companions for you! The post Watches you fly, travel, and swim with, along with EDC tools you write and cut with. We’ve got companions for you! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Gets a Red Gold Bracelet SJX Watches
Blancpain s Bathyscaphe Gets Aug 7, 2024

Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe Gets a Red Gold Bracelet

Blancpain range of vintage inspired dive watches grows to include a pair of top-of-the-line models, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chronographe Flyback, both in 18k red gold with a matching red gold bracelet. Previously available only with a fabric strap, the new duo feature a gradient blue dial with a sun-ray finish and a matching blue ceramic bezel insert.  Initial thoughts First released in 1956 as a more compact version of the Fifty Fathoms, the Bathyscaphe was reissued as a sportier and smaller sibling of the modern-day Fifty Fathoms. The Bathyscaphe line encompasses complications and various materials, including the recent all-ceramic models. The new pair continue to extend the line in terms of materials; they are the only models in the entire Fifty Fathoms range with a matching gold bracelet. The all-gold look is of course not for everyone, but the new pair have an extravagant appeal, particularly the chronograph that looks and feels like an ultra-luxe sports watch. The all-gold look, however, comes at a price. Both are cost US$55,300, which is far from the accessible price point of their all-ceramic counterparts. The price is arguably justified by Blancpain’s easily discernible quality, though the brand lacks the cachet of its peers in the same price segment, which makes these high-end models a very niche offering.  The red gold models are also available with a fabric strap. Fully red gold Both the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet and Chr...

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Event: Independent Watchmaking Panel in Geneva, Aug 29 SJX Watches
Urwerk and Rexhep Rexhepi Aug 7, 2024

Event: Independent Watchmaking Panel in Geneva, Aug 29

On the evening of August 29, 2024 in Geneva we’ll have Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia on a panel moderated by our founder SJX, and hosted by Phillips at its downtown Geneva office. The two eminent watchmakers will be discussing the topic: “What is Soul in Independent Watchmaking?” The panel is taking place outside Geneva Watch Days so we can’t promise any new watch launches, but there will be interesting and engaging conversation, and a few drinks. If you’re interested in attending, drop us a line via our website contact form.  

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Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Aug 6, 2024

Holthinrichs Announces their New Haute Horlogerie Project

Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house.  Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously.  Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...

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Fratello On Air: What’s So Special About Rolex Anyhow? Fratello
Rolex Anyhow? Welcome back Aug 6, 2024

Fratello On Air: What’s So Special About Rolex Anyhow?

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we ask: What the hell is so special about Rolex, anyhow? Sure, the brand has been discussed heavily, but having had recent Submariner experiences, both hosts hash out what makes these watches so fantastic. For our faithful listeners, the watch content begins at approximately […] Visit Fratello On Air: What’s So Special About Rolex Anyhow? to read the full article.

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Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Aug 6, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind

A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways. The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”. Initial thoughts The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch. Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close. The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well. As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch. The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch w...

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Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding “Rubberclad” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Aug 5, 2024

Audemars Piguet Debuts Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding “Rubberclad”

Audemars Piguet’s oversized sports watch line-up gains a pair of entry-level models with the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 37 mm and 43 mm. While the current versions in the catalogue are the colourful (and polarising) Music Edition, the new duo are no-frills with clean designs and muted colours. The 37 mm model combines light grey with 18k pink gold, while the 43 mm model is stainless steel and blue. Both feature “rubberclad” bezels for a more robust and sporty finish that harks back to the original Offshore Rubberclad of some two decades ago. Initial thoughts While some recent Royal Oak and Offshore launches felt over the top in design, the new Selfwinding pair op to keep it simple. They preserve the key elements of the design, namely a chunkier case with crown guards, but keep the styling clean. The low-key design is attractive, especially for someone who wants an Offshore without any of the fuss. That said, the rubber-covered bezel means the signature Royal Oak finishing is absent, though the covering makes it arguably more resistant to bumps than metal. Although the Offshore has often been a testing ground for different materials, such as carbon composite, ceramic, and rubber coating, the designs usually retain a metal alloy bezel finished with the high-end polishing technique traditional for the Royal Oak that results in the trademark play of light on the contrasting finishes. Rubberclad The 18k pink gold model is compact at 37 mm in diameter and 12.1 mm thic...

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A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal! Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri goes Aug 4, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal!

In Episode 86 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at three exciting releases from the past couple of weeks. Yes, it’s summer, so things are slowing down, but there has been a surprising amount of cool stuff to keep us interested. Timex surprised us with a space-age recreation of the Enigma, a fun, stylish, and affordable timepiece. Omega plays a game of metals with their newest bronze gold (and silver) watch to celebrate the 2024 Paris Olympics. And Furlan Marri goes for a spin with a vintage case shape. Check it out below and be sure to like and subscribe. Worn & Wound invites you to an excellent event on Saturday, August 17th in Oceanside, California. We’ve teamed up with the James Brand for a summer pop-up hosted in the James Brand’s new retail location. Running from 12pm to 6pm, the pop-up will include a showcase of their signature modern, minimal everyday carry products, as well as the last 10 units of their recent automatic GMT collab with Timex. Several excellent watch brands will also attend, including Artefkt, Brew Watch Co., Belmont Watch Co., Citizen, Lōcī, and Zodiac. It’s free, open to the public, and going to be a great time. Once again thats Saturday, August 17th from 12pm to 6pm PST at the James Brand HQ – 426 S Coast Highway, Oceanside, California. We hope to see you there! The post A Week in Watches Ep. 86 – Flying Saucers and Heavy Metal! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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