Deployant
New: Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport Rainbow and Defy Skyline Skeleton Chronograph
Zenith releases two new models at the LVMH watch week. The Chronomaster Sport Rainbow and the Defy Skyline Skeleton Chronograph.
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Deployant
Zenith releases two new models at the LVMH watch week. The Chronomaster Sport Rainbow and the Defy Skyline Skeleton Chronograph.
Time+Tide
A common phrase watch collectors throw around is "strap monster". We decided to take a moment to break down what it actually means.The post What is a strap monster, and why do you need one? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The watches and stories of a life spent behind the wheel and on the podium of the world's most prestigious automotive races.
Quill & Pad
Breguet needs your love. Despite excellent products, a rich history, significant investment, and financial stability, the company bearing this most illustrious name often ranks among the most anonymous in the space. Tim Mosso thinks that needs to change.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the vast world of pre-owned Rolex. More specifically, we try to find some of the best affordable (relatively speaking, of course) Rolex Datejust models. As a result of the price drops on the pre-owned market over the last 12–18 months, many of the overly expensive Rolex […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...
Hodinkee
From brand growth to candid conversations about commercial positioning, we break down the things worth paying attention to besides the watches.
Worn & Wound
When I was in middle school, my Saturday afternoons were my own. My younger brother played travel soccer, my dad was his coach, and my mom rarely missed a game, so just about every weekend in the Fall and Spring, I had the house to myself for a few hours. One of my favorite things to do during these reprieves from my family was to go up to my dad’s attic office, open up his watch box - a brown leather box that held five watches - and marvel at what I found inside. Something about that brown leather box communicated with perfect clarity that anything found inside it was to be treasured. That experience is probably no small part of why I love watches today, and a part of me is always looking to recapture the wonder I felt sneaking into my dad’s office and opening up his watch box. These days, it’s a harder experience to find, and I generally think a lot less about watch boxes - most of my watches either sit out on a felt pad on my desk or live in a set of retrofitted metal drawers from IKEA. Still, every so often, someone goes the extra mile and makes a watch box that’s hard to ignore. With their new acrylic Watch Box, L’Epée 1839 has done just that. If you know of L’Epée 1839, it’s probably from their clocks. And they’ve made some incredible clocks over the years; from very traditional carriage clocks to their collaborative pieces made with MB&F; (the Destination Moon is a personal favorite), L’Epée 1839 has consistently been a leader in Swiss cloc...
Monochrome
Gerald Charles, the watch brand founded by the late watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000 and now in the hands of Federico Zivani, celebrates its 25th anniversary with two special editions of its flagship Maestro watch. As a brand that relies on one case design alone, it is surprising how much variety it has introduced […]
Time+Tide
Farer has upgraded its GMT Bezel line with two sizes, four dial options and heaps of personality as always. The post Farer brings us a new GMT in two sizes and four colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
In December 2024, we published a review of the IWC RAAF pilot’s watch. This is a special timepiece that is only available to members of the Royal Australian Air Force (hence, RAAF). The overwhelming feedback I got through private messages as well as some of the comments on the article revealed a genuine frustration among […] Visit Historically Accurate Alternatives To IWC’s Modern Mark Series to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
While I haven’t been doing “this” as long as some who have been in the watch media trenches since a time when you could reliably get a discount on a brand new Rolex at an authorized dealer, I’ve been doing it long enough to get a sense of the rhythms of a new release season. We are, as of yesterday, in the thick of it. LVMH Watch Week is the unofficial (but also kind of official) kick off of a new year in novelties from big luxury group brands, and within the confines of the LVMH experience there’s one tradition that stands out to me that’s become something I look forward to and get genuinely excited about: seeing what kind of crazy sapphire or SAXEM cased watch Hublot has come up with. Pretty reliably, on a year to year basis, Hublot shows us a wild and colorful and extremely expensive watch in an exotic, glass-adjacent material. This year, like clockwork, they’re back with the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, a watch whose name is nearly doing my job for me. I’ve made no secret over the years of how much I enjoy these oversized, translucent watches. If I had to pick a favorite, it would probably be the purple sapphire Big Bang Tourbillon from 2022, but I’ll thank you in advance for not actually making me choose, because frankly these watches all do their thing equally well, and choosing the one you like best is like picking your favorite Coen Brothers movie. Some days it’s Fargo and on others it’s No Country for Old Men but maybe on Sunday...
Teddy Baldassarre
While Tiffany & Co. sparks immediate associations with its signature robin’s egg blue boxes, Art Nouveau lamps, and perhaps a certain Audrey Hepburn film, the jeweler does have a rich horological history that can be traced back to the mid-19th century. This week, the brand (now part of French luxury group LVMH) doubles down on its commitment to high horology in this century, releasing four distinct new watches that reinterpret the American high jeweler’s lengthy legacy for the contemporary watchmaking landscape. Debuting a collection of four new pieces, Tiffany & Co. cuts through the sense of stark minimalism that so often pervades modern design in favor of unabashed, maximalist opulence. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel Watch Selfishly, it seems only fitting to begin with my personal favorite among the four new releases. Featuring a swirling-patterned enamel dial, 18k white-gold case, and hour markers set with diamonds of various shapes, the Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel infuses the brand’s well-established Eternity line of watches with the flair of one of its most sought-after lamp designs – the Wisteria Tiffany lamp. “Iconic” is often overused in the popular lexicon when referring to classic designs, and I try to use it sparingly. But in the case of Tiffany lamps — with their intricate latticework, motifs that draw upon the natural world, and the bold interplay of color, which only becomes more compelling as the light filters through their var...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has just opened the doors of the first AP House in Singapore, situated in the Bar and Billiard Room of the historic Raffles Hotel. Opened in 1887, the Raffles is one of the grand hotels of Asia, having reopened in 2019 with only suites. Part of the hotel since the 19th century, the Bar and Billiard Room was until recently a restaurant, but its 1,000 m2, or almost 11,000 ft², is now home to an AP boutique, lounge, restaurant, and cafe all rolled into one. The latest AP House brings the total number of “houses” around the world to over 20, with other locations including Hong Kong, London, Los Angeles, Milan, New York, Shanghai, and Tokyo. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s home in Le Brassus and its surrounding natural beauty, the space also incorporates the distinctive flair of Singapore, including large panels made from trunks of the rain tree, a familiar sight around Singapore. Notably, AP House Singapore is home to the first-ever AP Café, which serves a menu that is Swiss but “reimagined through a Singaporean lens”, including Chicken Rice Club Sandwich and Gula Melaka Pain Suisse. “Designed to feel like a refined home, [AP House Singapore is] a haven where watch enthusiasts, newcomers, travellers, and anyone seeking a distinctive experience can gather, says Stefanie Ng, chief executive of Audemars Piguet South-East Asia, “Our doors are always open.” The AP Cafe Panels of rain tree wood decorate the walls AP House Singapore is also a sh...
Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern did not like the Ming 37.09 Uni dive watch on first sight. Or second. The ‘industrial’ – to my eyes – rather than elegant ‘chunky’ white minute ring, while practical i.e., highly visible, which is good for a dive watch, just didn’t work for him. But after a couple of days he looked at the dial again and decided that he liked it.
SJX Watches
Having acquired Tiffany & Co. in 2020, LVMH set about remaking the storied American jeweller. That extended to Tiffany’s watch division, which now debuts the first flagship creation under new ownership, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon. Led since 2021 by Nicolas Beau, the former chief of Chanel watches, Tiffany’s watch division turned to independent watchmaker Artime for the movement of the new tourbillon. Set with some 4 carats of diamonds, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon features an off-centre dial layout with a flying tourbillon at seven o’clock, along with a turquoise marquetry dial bearing a pair of diamond-set birds in flight. Initial thoughts One of Tiffany’s best-known jewellery designs, the Bird on the Rock has been a fixture in the brand’s catalogue for decades. A horological twist on the concept, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon is clearly part of an effort to position the design as a versatile icon that is Tiffany’s equivalent of the Serpenti. It’s a little bigger and thicker than the traditional ladies’ watch, though reminiscent of the MB&F; LM Flying T. The reason for the size is the AFT24T01 movement inside, which is more interesting than usual as it was developed for Tiffany & Co. by Artime, a recently established independent brand. The AFT24T01 has a high quality execution with appealing details, but it’s related to Artime’s own calibre for a men’s skeleton tourbillon, explaining its large size. As an opening effort, the Bird on a Flying...
Deployant
Just released for the LVMH Watch week is the new Tambour Convergence with a digital display and a very discreet dial layout.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...
SJX Watches
Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...
Quill & Pad
The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 embodies the ultimate pursuit of hand watchmaking. Every component, whether visible or hidden, is created, finished, and assembled by hand with unprecedented rigor.
Deployant
Greubel Forsey pushes their hand made philosophy once again with the release of the second in the series. The Hand Made 2.
SJX Watches
In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...
Time+Tide
Stainless steel and sapphire may be modern miracles for their inherent properties, but are they really luxury materials?The post Luxury watch materials that are more common than you think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
One of the best elements of wearing watches is forging memories with them. Sometimes, though, those memories can be a bit traumatic and leave true battle scars on the watch! Today, I’ll share how my Tudor Heritage Ranger survived a serious motorcycle accident and came away with some scars. When we think of watches showing […] Visit Scarring Up Our Watches: Hitting A Kangaroo On A Motorbike With My Tudor Heritage Ranger to read the full article.
Monochrome
A brand with a rich legacy and a strong focus on solid quality for accessible prices, Delma is renowned for its super-powerful dive watches, such as the 5,000m-rated Blue Shark IV. But, of course, there’s more to the brand than its diving instruments. We can list chronographs, field watches or even a reasonably accessible tourbillon […]
Worn & Wound
I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...
Deployant
Gerald Charles begins their 25th Anniversary with two releases: the Maestro Tourbillon collection, and the other in the Maestro Ultra-Thin collection.
Fratello
I bought the Tudor Black Bay 58 in blue as a present to myself for my 30th birthday. It’s a significant watch for me and one that I have worn a great deal. So it felt like a natural choice to take it on a trip to Australia’s Red Centre in the Northern Territory. This […] Visit My 2025 New Year’s Resolutions And Visiting Australia’s Red Centre With My Tudor Black Bay 58 to read the full article.
A Week in Watches is back and off to the races with ep 97, which covers a handful of cool new releases. Despite the beginning of the year slump, there’s still plenty to keep us excited, from a light and fast Longines to a precious metal Fears, to a new steel luxury hype-machine by Vacheron, and finally, another new Speedmaster. This episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. New to the shop is the G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A origin, a revamp of the very first G-SHOCK, some cool Casio x Pac-Man pieces, including a nerdtastic calculator watch in yellow, the futuristic Prevail field watches, and more – head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out for yourself. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 97: Longines, Fears, Omega, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Buying a pre-owned watch can be daunting at first, especially if you are new to the game. You read horror stories of fake watches or watches with incorrect parts. And you would not be the first to end up with a watch that is not functioning properly. For many, this is reason enough to buy […] Visit Back To Basics: Tips On How To Buy A Pre-Owned Watch to read the full article.
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