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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
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Rado s 5280 watches who Jul 21, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 85: Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024

On episode 85 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host from Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was a fantastic fair. Zach and Zach chose two brands each to talk to, one just debuting and the other a staple with a new release. Zach Kazan spoke to Monta about the Noble GMT, and then Colorado’s 5280 watches, who are creating rose-engine turned, vitreous enamel dials in the US. Zach Weiss then spoke to Chicago’s own Astor + Banks about the SeaRanger M2, as well as ARTEFKT Seven, a new brand that turned a lot of heads at the fair. To stay up to date about future Windup Watch Fairs, such as the New York City fair happening in October, head to WindupWatchFair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 85: Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 54 It’s Jul 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54

It’s a summer Sunday morning, so grab your caramel Frappuccino, and get ready for a battle rooted in history. We’re kidding, of course; an early morning battle like this requires a double espresso. But we weren’t kidding about the history-injected showdown that we are presenting to you this morning. We paired the latest 38mm Divers […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

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eBay Finds: A Rare Polerouter, an Accutron Collector Set, and a Minty Vintage Hamilton Worn & Wound
Hamilton eBay Finds Jul 19, 2024

eBay Finds: A Rare Polerouter, an Accutron Collector Set, and a Minty Vintage Hamilton

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Nesr Ferrotex  First up this week we have a really cool one that I have never seen, never even heard of! This vintage Nesr Ferrotex has a fantastic look, with a classic Oyster style case with the Thunderbird style grooved bezel. This is often referred to as “engine turned,” but that never seemed very accurate to me. The white(ish) dial is clean, featuring faceted arrowhead markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 with slim stick markers elsewhere. No date, or anything else to mess up the beautiful symmetry. The steel case measures 35mm and looks sharp and unpolished. The caseback has a gold medallion (like King Seiko or Omega Constellation, etc) with an eagle on it. The seller states that Nesr means eagle in Arabic, which would make sense. Nice clean manual wind movement that runs well per the seller. Great, unique piece for any collection! View auction here Vintage Timex “UFO” Here’s an interesting one, a vintage Timex Electronic “UFO”. The wide disc-shaped case measures 42mm in diameter and is chrome plated. It shows minimal wear and definitely still looks good. The two-tone gold bullseye style dial is clean, with different textures on the inner/outer dial and the bullseye ring. Thi...

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Business News: Biver Names James Marks CEO SJX Watches
Blancpain Jul 19, 2024

Business News: Biver Names James Marks CEO

Established two years ago by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver has just named the first outsider to its management ranks with James Marks as chief executive officer. The longtime head of Phillips Perpetual, the auctioneer’s watch boutique headquartered in London, Mr Marks is now based in Zurich for his new role; he remains a consultant to Phillips. (Pictured above, from left: James Marks, Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver.) Now 74 years old, the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver is something of an industry legend for having resurrected Blancpain and Hublot, but his eponymous brand is the first venture that is his own. Or more specifically, a Biver family affair: his youngest son Pierre, who is turning 25 this year, was cofounder of the brand. Mr Marks, who is 44 years old, will both help lead the brand as well as manage the transition from one generation of Bivers to the next. The movement of the one-off Biver Catharsis Minute Repeater Carillon Mr Marks is a longtime watch enthusiast who was a fund manager before he joined the watch industry six years ago. Soon after he set up Perpetual, a then-novel concept for an auction house where watches were available for sale year-round and not only during auction season. One of his earliest hires was Pierre Biver as an intern. Both an industry insider and outsider, Mr Marks is expected to bring a new perspective to Biver. Although the brand has only sold a few dozen watches to date, it has garnered volumes of praise and criticism...

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Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up Jul 19, 2024

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo

Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s  a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...

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Citizen Celebrating 35 Years Jul 18, 2024

Recapping Windup in a Lake 2024 Presented by Citizen Celebrating 35 Years of Promaster

In 1971, banker-turned-explorer Peter Gimbel set out on a 5-month voyage aboard the Terrier VIII to be the first person in the world to capture a Great White shark on film. He cobbled together an eclectic team for this adventure, including everyone from conservationists and shark experts to filmmakers and writers. This expedition resulted in the documentary film Blue Water, White Death, which has since become a cult classic within the diving community, and features a slew of very unique, very 70s dive watches to boot. Among the crew of early underwater luminaries (Stan Waterman, Ron and Valerie Taylor, anyone?), Gimbel also saw fit to hire budding singer/songwriter Tom Chapin along as a guitar-slinging jack of all trades, whereupon he became the natural soundtrack for the film. Tom’s role in this expedition is considered to be the inspiration for filmmaker Wes Anderson’s inclusion of Brazilian folk singer Seu Jorge in his sea-set feature The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Both films result in support of an eternal truth, that the best boat rides are the ones with folk singers aboard. For the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago has brought enthusiasts from as far south as Texas and from as far north as Canada to gather and geek out on watches from around the world. Beginning with the first year of Windup Chicago, a dedicated team of watch enthusiast divers started an adjacent activity, affectionately dubbed “Windup in a Lake.” Each year, this intrepi...

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An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond Worn & Wound
Jul 18, 2024

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond

If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out.  I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...

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Industry News: LVMH Makes Moves With Leadership Shuffle At Hublot And TAG Heuer Fratello
TAG Heuer LVMH has been busy Jul 18, 2024

Industry News: LVMH Makes Moves With Leadership Shuffle At Hublot And TAG Heuer

LVMH has been busy with leadership changes recently. Today, we received news that more key positions within the group have been addressed. Ricardo Guadalupe steps down as Hublot CEO, taking on the role of honorary president. Recently appointed TAG Heuer CEO Julien Tornare takes his place, opening up the TAG role for Antoine Pin. Tornare […] Visit Industry News: LVMH Makes Moves With Leadership Shuffle At Hublot And TAG Heuer to read the full article.

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#TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities Fratello
Casio ns Jul 18, 2024

#TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities

Morning watch selection is a ritual that is special and specific for every collector. Many variables get involved, starting with the number of watches in someone’s collection. One’s current mood, the weather, planned activities throughout the day, and matching with certain clothes may also come into play. Today, I will focus on random, usual, memorable, […] Visit #TBT My Four Vintage Watches Tied To Specific Occasions And Activities to read the full article.

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Industry News – Management Reshuffle at LVMH Watches, New CEO for Hublot and TAG Heuer Monochrome
TAG Heuer It wasn’t so long Jul 18, 2024

Industry News – Management Reshuffle at LVMH Watches, New CEO for Hublot and TAG Heuer

It wasn’t so long ago when LVMH, the French luxury powerhouse, announced shifts in top management positions. In January 2024, the group announced the creation of a new entity, LVMH Watches, as well as its CEO, Frédéric Arnault, the son of the Group’s owner Bernard Arnault and ex-CEO of TAG Heuer. As a consequence, Julien […]

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Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Expected but not quite Jul 18, 2024

Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer

Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch. Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024. From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected. Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chie...

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5 Watches To Start A Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 17, 2024

5 Watches To Start A Collection

Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50.  With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term.  Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment.  Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...

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Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches? Worn & Wound
Rolex Pepsi” GMT Jul 17, 2024

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches?

Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37?  Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...

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Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T Worn & Wound
Doxa Releases their Second Clive Jul 17, 2024

Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T

Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...

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Five Louis Erard’s You Shouldn’t Miss Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s You Shouldn’t Miss Jul 17, 2024

Five Louis Erard’s You Shouldn’t Miss

Best known for its regulator-style watches, the Louis Erard brand has been in continuous production since 1931, despite a change in ownership and relocation in 1992. Still proudly made in Switzerland, it creates original and authentic watches with strong horological content while embodying today’s essential call for affordability. Best known for its regulator-style watches, the Louis Erard brand has been in continuous production since 1931, despite a change in ownership and relocation in 1992. Still proudly made in Switzerland, it creates original and authentic watches with strong horological content while embodying today’s essential call for affordability. The post Five Louis Erard’s You Shouldn’t Miss appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

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