Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Elton John Shows Us That Vintage Chopard Is Worth A Revisit
After attending the "Goodbye Peachtree Road" auction preview, I fell down a very eclectic Chopard rabbit hole.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Zenith’s New Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar References
Earlier this month, Zenith introduced their first new watches of the year at LVMH Watch Week. The new releases fill out their core Chronomaster Sport and Chronomaster Original lines with new colorways and, for the Original, a classic complication reintroduced for the first time in a modern context. Kat Shoulders and Zach Kazan got to spend some time with the new watches recently, and their thoughts, and Kat’s photos, are below. Stay tuned for a more detailed look at the new titanium version of the Chronomaster Sport coming soon. Kat Shoulders When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport came out a few years ago, it caused quite the stir in the watch community. I always felt the watch was under-appreciated with its constant comparisons to the Daytona. What Zenith has done with the technology of the El Primero movement, renowned for its accuracy and high frequency, is amazing and it’s a shame this chronograph gets so often overlooked. It was no surprise that when this year’s new Zenith releases came out, I was immediately drawn to the Chronomaster Sport series. While there aren’t any technical changes (not that they were needed), the new case materials were pleasant updates that have swayed me to consider picking one up. The titanium version is absolutely stellar and as many of you know, I’m not the biggest fan of the material, so that should go to tell you how cool this watch really is. The matte finishing is honestly the perfect choice for this sporty chronograph and I...
Worn & Wound
Farer Updates their World Timer Collection
Introduced in 2019, Farer’s World Timer series has continued to garner attention for the brand and has become one of their most popular collections to date. Between a nearly pitch-perfect design for the dial and the impressive central rotating 24-hour disc and a bidirectional internal bezel, the wearer has the ability to read 24 time zones simultaneously. Now, the Britain-based company has released a new iteration of the World Time collection, each with notable enhancements, reintroducing favorites like the Roché and Markham alongside the introduction of the all-new Foxe model in a striking green hue. Those familiar with the collection’s previous design will notice updated hour and minute hands, adopting a sleeker alpha shape to complement the watches’ aesthetics. Moreover, adjustments to the rotating bezel showcase city replacements: Chicago has replaced Mexico City, Beijing has replaced Hong Kong, and lastly, Paris has been replaced by Bienne to mark where the World Timers are produced. Less conspicuous is the update to the World Time’s movement. The collection now houses a customized version of the Sellita SW330-1 movement, specifically tailored to accommodate a rotating 24-hour disc instead of a traditional GMT hand. This modification, along with an upgraded mainspring, extends the power reserve to an impressive 50 hours. As mentioned, three color options are available for this update. One can choose between Roche, Markham, and Foxe. The Roché model com...
Monochrome
News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases
Partnering with auctioneer Sotheby’s, Omega has recently offered for sale 11 unprecedented MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold suitcases. Surfing on these vibe of the Moonshine gold watches wasn’t the idea, however. There was a good cause behind these sales, as all of the auction proceeds are to be given to Omega’s long-term partner, Orbis International. And with […]
Fratello
Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector
In this installment of Back To Basics, I’ll go into typical mistakes that beginner watch collectors often make. These are the common pitfalls that newcomers might find themselves running into. After reading this, you, as a new watch enthusiast, will hopefully be able to steer clear of them! And that might just save you some […] Visit Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick
The ever expanding Hanhart 417 ES collection has just added yet another return of an icon from more than 60 years. The Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick.
Revolution
Backgammon And Watch Strategy With Benjamin Comar, CEO Of Piaget
In 2021, Benjamin Comar assumed the role of CEO at Piaget amidst the challenging backdrop of the COVID-19 pandemic reaching its peak. However, Comar’s ascent to this position was not without merit. With an impressive 25-year tenure within the Richemont Group, his career trajectory speaks volumes. He embarked on his journey in 1992 at Cartier, […]
SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again)
To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Musée Soulages, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) is launching a second edition inspired by Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The Hampton Polyptyque Edition “Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary” features a dial modelled on Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I. Inspired by the style of the French abstractionist, the dial reproduces the dense impasto of texture and shapes of the artwork. As with the first edition, it has an all-black case and an overall composition devoid of colour, except for the branding and hands. Initial thoughts While watchmakers often partner with museums, Baume & Mercier’s tie-up with the Musée Soulages’ that started in 2022 yielded the brand’s most compelling watch to date – which is saying a lot for this anaemic brand. The second edition is essentially identical to the first, but with a different artwork on the dial. Though simple, the latest Soulages watch still manages to capture the essence of his work on a tiny canvas. However, as is always the case with limited editions, the number of editions is inversely proportional to desirability and appeal. While the first edition was special – it reputedly sold out swiftly – the second edition is intrinsically less unique. If there are much more on the horizon then the concept will lose much of its interest. The Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” edition from 2022 Priced at US$6,900, the new Soulages edition costs US$1,050 more than the first edition...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Louis Erard X Alain Silberstein Chrono Monopoussoir
When the 2023 set of Louis Erard X Silberstein watches came out, GaryG wasn’t entirely certain they were for him. Happily, he had the opportunity to see the Monopoussoir at his favorite local dealer, and within minutes had decided to take it home.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Seven Appealing Watches, Each With a Different Winding System
When it comes to mechanical watchmaking, it’s common practice to split it down to the middle and group together manual winding watches on one end, and automatic ones on the other. But, as we will showcase in this Buying Guide, there’s a whole range of systems developed to provide energy to a watch. Sure, manual […]
Time+Tide
My DIY restoration of a solid gold Universal Genève that cost $7
Buffy gives their Universal Genève some much-needed TLC. But is a $5 crystal a step too far in this ultra-budget journey?The post My DIY restoration of a solid gold Universal Genève that cost $7 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57
Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! With the smell of fresh coffee filling the room, it’s time for a battle of chronographs - the Breitling Chronomat versus the Omega Speedmaster. More specifically, for this week’s battle, Jorg chose the Breitling Chronomat B01 42, and Thomas chose the Omega Speedmaster ’57. The first is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Can I use an ultrasonic cleaner on my watch?
T+T's crash course on how to clean those grimy vintage pieces. The post Can I use an ultrasonic cleaner on my watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New releases from Cartier, Hamilton, H. Moser & Cie and more
Hamilton's Dune watches stole the show this week, but there was plenty of heat elsewhere too.The post New releases from Cartier, Hamilton, H. Moser & Cie and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DBD Re-Edition Evergreen Reviewed by Tim Mosso
At Dubai Watch Week 2023, the DBD Evergreen arrived as De Bethune’s final flourish of the year. Unarguably more mainstream than the black-and-pink Season 2, the Evergreen channels the dial color of our moment in tandem with a rugged and wieldy grade 5 titanium case.
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Creates Unique Élégante Titalyt “Pink” for Charity
F.P. Journe has just unveiled a unique version of its bestselling quartz sports watch that will be sold to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), an American non-profit that raises funds for medical research. The Élégante Titalyt “Pink” is based on the large 48 mm model with an oxide-coated titanium case. Making it unique is the hour numeral “1” in pink, a detail that is matched by a pink rubber strap. Introduced a decade ago, the Élégante is F.P. Journe’s take on a fuss-free sports watch. Although the Tortue case is historically inspired – and also identical to the case of the Vagabondage models – the Élégante is equipped with the brand’s only quartz movement. Developed in-house, the cal. 1210 features a motion detector that activates “sleep” mode. If the watch is stationary for 35 minutes, the movement goes into hibernation and the hands freeze but the movement continues to keep time. Once the watch is picked up, the hands will travel to show the correct time. In normal time-telling mode the Élégante will run for eight to ten years on a fresh battery, and in “sleep” mode a battery lasts up to 18 years. The quartz movement of the Élégante has red gold tracks on the circuit board, a reference to the red gold bridges and plates in the brand’s mechanical movements All of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will go to the BCRF. Conducted by Phillips, the auction will take place at a private event on Miami on March 2, h...
SJX Watches
A Grand Seiko “First” 3180 Remake in Titanium and Powder Blue
Having just opened its first boutique in Singapore, Grand Seiko has now announced a limited edition especially for the store. The Elegance Collection Singapore Boutique Exclusive SBGW315 is essentially a new take on the “First” cal. 3180 remake. Instead of traditional colours and materials, the SBGW315 renders the familiar design in titanium with a patterned, powder blue dial. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko releases a lot of limited editions – a Spring Drive pair was just announced two weeks ago – but the SBGW315 unexpectedly manages to be different. For one, the base model of the edition is infrequently iterated. The last variant of the “First” remake I can think of was from early 2023 when Grand Seiko unveiled a version with a maki-e lacquer dial. Additionally, past “First” limited editions were more traditional in colour, with plain dials in either silver, cream, or dark colours like black or blue. The SBGW315, on the other hand, combines the aesthetics of the “First” with a decidedly contemporary powder blue dial finished with a radial feathered pattern. While the colour and pattern are hardly novel, they give this watch a distinctive look. Even amongst the numerous Grand Seiko limited editions, the SBGW315 stands out. And it will continue to be uncommon as long as Grand Seiko doesn’t roll out more version of the model in additional colours – which is an overly optimistic assumption given the brand’s inclination towards such watches. A new(ish)...
Time+Tide
What is a cocktail watch?
The Collins Dictionary defines a cocktail watch as "a women's designer watch intended to be worn with formal evening dress as a piece of jewellery.” So that’s the end of the article, right? Not quite.The post What is a cocktail watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide
When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport won the Chronograph Prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève, the watch world’s most prestigious awards, it was emphatically something new and different: the first chronograph watch able to measure 1/10-second chronograph readings on its bezel scale. However, despite the fact that the Chronomaster Sport collection can still be considered “new” in a practical sense, its origins, both aesthetic and technical, can be traced back much further, all the way to some of the earliest horological milestones of Zenith, one of the Swiss watch world’s most honored and accomplished watchmakers and the inventor of the groundbreaking movement that animates all the Chronomaster models, including the Sport. I spoke with Zenith’s Head of Heritage, Laurence Bodenmann, to help trace the evolution of the Chronomaster Sport and its strong ties to several noteworthy models of the past. Zenith traces its impactful watchmaking history all the way back to 1865, and an ambitious 22-year-old watchmaker named George Favre-Jacot. A contemporary of the influential Swiss artist and designer Le Corbusier, a pioneer of avant-garde architecture, Favre-Jacot adopted a similarly modernist approach to watchmaking when he founded his atelier in Le Locle in the Swiss Jura. Taking cues from American watch firms like Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal trade, Georges Favre-Jacot & Co.,...
Worn & Wound
Everybody Writes: a Beginner’s Guide to Pens
When you sit and think about it, there’s quite a few similarities between a pen and a watch. Both are utility objects, initially designed for practical purposes, and have since evolved into industries driven by both passion and interest. And likewise for both pens and watches, there exists a tiered level of prestige, with options at every budget, from the simple and utilitarian to the highest of luxury. But maybe the most obvious similarity is that each can be broken down into varying modes which affect the way either a pen or watch is used and enjoyed. For watches, we have the option for quartz and mechanical movements, as well as a number of hybrid and exotic options. And for pens, there are three broad categories which encompass the majority of writing utensils on the market: rollerball, ballpoint, and fountain pen. While I’m sure you’re at least familiar with these terms, a lot of people might not fully understand the differences in application, writing capabilities, and general feel when it comes to picking up one versus the other. So if you’re curious to know about each type of pen – and maybe fall into a rabbit hole of pen collecting – keep reading for a brief explanation of the differences between the three. Rollerball: A Grown-Up Gel Pen Rollerball pens are often celebrated for their precision, operating on a deceptively simple yet highly effective mechanism. At the pen’s tip,a small tungsten carbide ball is held into a socket, which, as the pen gl...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Nomos Ahoi Ref. 552 – It’s Both Relatively Affordable and Very Versatile
Sometimes the right watch has a way of finding you instead of the other way around. And that happened to Marin Green with a Nomos Ahoi Ref. 552.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we kick off a series of Top 5 lists with some great pre-owned options. With ever-increasing list prices of new watches, finding a nice pre-owned one could be a great way to go. In the upcoming articles, we want to highlight some remarkable options. Some are familiar, some […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 1 - Featuring Rolex, Zenith, Omega, And More to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Tissot PR 516 Chrono Mechanical
Tissot reissues their PR 516 from a popular watch of the same name from 1965. Four new models -a hand wound mechanical with three additions in quartz.
Time+Tide
How much did Elton John’s Cartier Crash just hammer for?
The auction results for The Rocket Man's watches are out of this world.The post How much did Elton John’s Cartier Crash just hammer for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Exploring Evergreens: Rolex Datejust 36mm Ref. 1601
In this edition of Exploring Evergreens, I am covering the Rolex Datejust ref. 1601. This is a watch that is very dear to me as it represents one of my professional milestones. But even without that sentimental value, it is one of the greatest watch designs of all time to me. The Cyclops, the fluted […] Visit Exploring Evergreens: Rolex Datejust 36mm Ref. 1601 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Vulcain x Seconde/Seconde/ x Revolution Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute”: Live Long And Prosper!
Long name aside, the Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” is an awesomely vintage reissue of a Vulcain Cricket with a quirky twist.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes
Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier debut a new Soulages sequel with another stunning painting-inspired dial
Baume & Mercier once again painstakingly bring the work of Pierre Soulages to a watch dial in this limited edition sequel.The post Baume & Mercier debut a new Soulages sequel with another stunning painting-inspired dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
25 Best All-Black Watches From Entry-Level to Luxury
While blue-dial and green-dial watches have emerged as perennial favorites for aficionados in recent years, "all-black" watches - that is, timepieces with ebony-colored cases, dials, and often even straps - have remained an intriguing niche for those seeking a stealthier style or to add a hint of dark edginess in their timepiece ensemble. Here are 21 all-black watches in a range of price categories for those looking to embrace the dark side. G-Shock DW5600BB-1CR Price: $99, Case: 42.8mm, Thickness 13.9mm, Lug-To-Lug: 48.9mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz The DW5600BB model of Casio’s iconic and mega-popular G-Shock sports the original rectangular-cased, digital-display design that has been a mainstay since 1983, as well as a watch-world forerunner of the all-black look. The classic gray field of the LCD dial frames the watch's compact readout of time, date, and running seconds. Like most all watches in G-Shock’s extensive DW5600 family, its durable resin case boasts a 200-meter water resistance and its digital functions include a 1/100-second stopwatch, countdown timer, multi-function alarm, a full calendar accurate to 2099, and an electro-luminescent backlight with afterglow. Citizen Nighthawk Black PVD Price: $391, Case: 42mm, Lug Width: 26mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water-Resistance: 200m, Movement: Quartz Eco-Drive, Water-Resistance: 200m The Citizen Promaster Nighthawk Black PVD sports a highly technical dial that takes its cues from ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Farer World Timer Collection Returns With Updates And A New Model
The new Farer World Timer models are now available for 2024. Check out the latest updates to the collection and a new green-dial model.