Hodinkee
Historical Perspectives: The New Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar In Platinum And A Brief History Of Platinum At Lange
Black dial. Platinum case. Pure Lange.
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
In-Depth: What A New LM Split Escapement EVO Might Mean For Future MB&F; Releases
Sure, it might just be a new dial color for a year-old watch, but I'm taking the chance to dive into the history of it and where we think the brand could go next.
Worn & Wound
Minase and Fratello are Back with a New Version of the M-3, this Time in “Nori” Green
Our friends at Fratello have announced their latest limited edition collaboration, a follow up to last year’s release with Minase. That watch, the M-3 “Very Peri,” marked the first time Minase’s cushion shaped case was available outside of Japan. This year’s version borrows the same case profile, but lands on a very different dial execution. The Fratello x Minase M-3 “Nori” has a subtle green dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, making for a toned down and perhaps more under-the-radar version of the M-3 than last year’s brightly colored purple variant. Minase, for the uninitiated, is a Japanese brand that produces about 500 pieces per year in the Akita Prefecture. They incorporate many traditional Japanese craft elements in their watchmaking, with a focus on hand-made components, but also incorporate plenty of modern manufacturing techniques. If you’ve handled any of their watches (we’ve been happy to have them at several recent Windup Watch Fairs, and they’ll be joining us once again in NYC next month), you know that they machined and finished immaculately. Zach wrote about Minase’s Divido here, which has an extremely complex case and bracelet construction, paired with a dial that’s made with a very traditional Japanese lacquering technique. The M-3 has a simpler case, but it’s machined and finished to the same high standard as Minase’s more complex designs. The cushion style case measures 39mm in diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug, and is just 10...
Worn & Wound
Shinola Debuts the Latest Version of their Canfield Speedway Chronograph
As Shinola masterfully puts it, “When it comes to excellence, there is no finish line. Only the next lap.” Now on their sixth lap, the Canfield Speedway Lap 06 chronograph is a testament to the growing sophistication of the Detroit-based brand. In this newest iteration of the Canfield model, Shinola remains inspired with racing heritage and the vintage colorways that define that era of automotive sportsmanship. The dial of the Lap 06 is an understated Pea Gravel Green with accents of blue, yellow, and orange on the surrounding tachymeter. These details are enhanced by the two subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock marks, which are reminiscent of the two-tone wheel design of some of our favorite vintage cars. The case itself is 44mm in stainless steel and complemented by a heavy coin edge and colorful anodized aluminum collars on the pushbuttons. The strap of the Lap 06 is modeled after perforated driving gloves in a bourbon-colored leather. This is an automatic chronograph that runs on a Sellita Caliber SW510.BH.A movement, offering just over 60 hours of power. The Canfield Speedway is a culmination of small details and craftsmanship that have come to represent the Detroit brand as they head into their second decade. The Canfield Speedway Lap 06 is now available with a price tag of $2,995. Images from this post: The post Shinola Debuts the Latest Version of their Canfield Speedway Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...
Deployant
New: Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept for W&W; Shanghai
Piaget adds to the Altiplano Concept family with a new Ultimate model in a cobalt allow case and dark blue dial in time for Watches & Wonders Shanghai.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Tudor Pelagos FXD In Black Pays Tribute To U.S. Navy-Issued Watches
Tudor introduces a new black dial version of their mil-spec Tudor Pelagos FXD. Check out pricing, photos, model history, and more.
Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces New Pelagos FXD in Black
Tudor expands their FXD family today with a new regular production reference that features a black dial and bezel. The watch follows the same formula as the Marine Nationale FXD that was released in late 2021, a flat 12.7mm thick, 42mm titanium case with a fixed lug design. There are a few changes here worth noting, however, and this might just be the most approachable FXD to date. While there is no official affiliation with this watch, the latest FXD was released alongside a display of the brand’s rich history in issued watches, right next to the original Sealab I at the Man In The Sea museum in Panama City Florida. The setting is a fitting reminder of the remarkable Sealab program, and an era when watches like this were used as indispensable tools, the same as a compass or knife. This the spirit of the FXD and even the broader Pelagos collection as a whole, and as such we’ll be putting the new watch through its paces on a dive in the Gulf of Mexico, keep an eye out for the full report from the experience coming soon. The black FXD welcomes the same bit of red text at the bottom of the dial that we saw in the Pelagos 39 released last year. It provides the same benefit here, serving to reduce the visual weight of the 4 lines of text at the bottom of the dial. The matte black dial is joined by a matte black bezel insert (no sunburst pattern here), and the bezel is the biggest departure from the original FXD. Rather than counting down, and bi-directional (features done...
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition 2023
Glashütte Original's annual update to their Sixties Chronograph brings a sportier vibe to the vintage-inspired watch, with an intriguingly-textured grey dégradé dial and a new fabric strap.The post Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Glow-in-the-Dark Monaco Night Driver
Following its recent run of strikingly modern iterations of the classic Monaco, like the Skeleton Dial and the one-of-a-kind Only Watch split-seconds chronograph, TAG Heuer debuts the Monaco Chronograph Night Driver Limited Edition alongside the side of the 2023 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Dressed in shades of grey during the day, the Night Driver transforms into something else altogether at night. It retains the outlines of the vintage original in terms of design, but the Night Driver gets a luminescent chapter ring and sub-dials for nighttime legibility – a nod to the Singapore Grand Prix’s status as the first-ever Formula 1 night race. Initial thoughts After the recent Monaco models that were very contemporary, the more traditional looks of the Night Driver are a positive development. And even then the Night Driver incorporates an intriguing twist, making it more than just a vintage-ish watch. The Night Driver has a dial that uses Super-Luminova as a key element of the design, bringing to mind the Monza Flyback Chronometer. But here the lume is even more generously applied than on the Monza. Moreover, the grey tones of anthracite, grey opaline, and case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC), complement the lume well, creating a vintage feel that evokes faded “ghost” dials while still being a modern watch. Like other titanium Monaco models, the Night Driver is light in hand and on the wrist, despite the relatively large case. The thickness of the case, a cons...
Deployant
New: Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar for W&W; Shanghai 2023
The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar gets a new model, released for Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2023, now in a platinum case with black dial.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth”
Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey. The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...
SJX Watches
Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium
Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 05 for a Week on the Wrist: How it Measures Up – Reprise
Bell & Ross turns its aviation watch “DNA” toward the urban man. Chris Malburg spent a week with the BR 05 with gray dial in stainless steel and has a lot to say about this everyday city-dweller’s timepiece.
Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG
Audemars Piguet has unveiled a fresh rendition of the famed Royal Oak “Jumbo” with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG ref. 16202XT. Featuring a smoked burgundy dial, this latest version is set apart by its materials – a titanium case complemented by a bulk metallic glass (BMG) bezel – that are the same as those of the unique ref. 15202XT created for Only Watch 2021. Initial thoughts While the classical steel “Jumbo” gets most of the attention, the most interesting version of the ref. 16202 in my view is the platinum model, mainly due to the smoked green dial. The platinum model has an appealing radial brushed finish on the dial that was exclusive to that variant, making it quite different from the usual tapisserie guilloche. It’s good to see the same dial finish on another model, and this time with an even more striking burgundy red dial. What sets the new “Jumbo” apart are the case materials: titanium and BMG. Though the materials are identical to the Only Watch edition, the finishing is different. The Only Watch edition was mostly sandblasted. This, on the other hand, has the conventional brushed finish of the Royal Oak. And of course the movements differ between the ref. 15202 and ref. 16202. Still, this remains a “Jumbo” is most respects – size, shape, and style. Yet, with its smoked dial and unusual case material, it becomes an interesting new watch. Whilst it will become part of the permanent collection, it will presumably be ...
Deployant
Review: The New Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Chopard introduces an extra-thin variation to its sports watch collection, the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, which also comes equipped with a salmon-coloured dial.
Quill & Pad
Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New
The classic design of the Akrivia RRCC II’s dial has roots in founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s vision of high-quality nineteenth-century pocket watch dials adorned with high-fire enamel and combined with a modern twist based on “sector” dials of the 1930s and '40s. But there's much more to this brand-new watch than that as Elizabeth Doerr explains.
Time+Tide
The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon
The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 harkens back to the founder’s racing pedigree The green dial Is based on the Porsche 935 he helped to place third in Le Mans 1979 Even as a luxury watch, its 41.5mm titanium case is comfortable, and water-resistant to 120m There are a lot of brands who claim that … ContinuedThe post The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package
For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium
For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture. Initial thoughts These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE
The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact. The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...
Time+Tide
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes
The unveiling of a new minute repeater by a maker with Breguet’s pedigree should not be taken lightly. The brand has just unveiled the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, only the third repeating wristwatch in its catalogue after the Classique 5447 and the heavily jewelled Classique 7639. But with the new 7637, Breguet is focusing on minimalist elegance with a grand feu enamel dial in the most classical of styles. Initial thoughts Leaf through Breguet’s catalogue and it is clear that the Classique collection is the best testament to the heritage left behind by arguably the greatest watchmaker in history. The Classique 7637 Répétion Minutes exemplifies the masterfully executed timepieces that continue this legacy. All the main features of what makes this a Breguet are present to be appreciated by a discerning eye. The enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a “secret” signature, masterfully executed Breguet hands, a fluted case band – all reminders of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy. Notably, the movement inside is a legacy movement of sorts as well. The cal. 567.2 inside is descended from a Lemania movement conceived in the 1990s, explaining its classical architecture that suits the style of the watch. But like all Breguet movements, it has been upgraded, most interestingly with solid-gold gongs. At 42 mm, the rose gold case exceeds the classical dimensions that most makers abide by today, but the case has a 12.25 mm height that maintains elegant proportions...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris' New Environmentally-Conscious Aquis With Upcycled Fishing Nets
The new upcycled dial made with partners Bracenet comes in two sizes and each watch is unique.
Worn & Wound
Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs
A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration
Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style. The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...
Worn & Wound
Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2
Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside. The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams
Four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models have been announced, along with one unique piece that make up this latest collaboration. With a mixture of yellow gold, white gold and two-tone, all pieces are co-branded with Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM, Matthew Williams’ own brand, on the dial and rotor. Initial thoughts It’s nice to see collaborations like this taking place. When someone with the fashion and design pedigree of Matthew Williams enters the watch space, it is always worth taking note, as they are bound to bring a fresh and unique perspective. However, here it would seem he has just taken the designs he previously made with MAD Paris and asked Audemars Piguet to make them instead. The only visual difference being that the original ones had circular brushed dials, whereas these are vertically brushed. While the variety of case size and metal is appreciated, it is clear that these designs are not original with perhaps the only real difference being that the date window has been removed from the standard Royal Oak. Having the same aesthetic treatment applied across the time-only Royal Oak, chronograph Royal Oak and Offshore is nice to see, making this a cohesive collection. And the unique piece carries pleasing contrasts with the two-tone case and dark, PVD-coated dial giving a look that seems fitting for the streetwear-savvy Williams. There has been no communication on the price of these pieces, nor how many are set to be produced. All we can be sure ...
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 take to Mount Iwate skies celebrating the 9S movement
The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S mechanical movement The SBGJ275 from the Sport Collection depicts the cloudy sky above Mt. Iwate The SBGM253 from the Elegance Collection takes a sophisticated approach with a blue sunburst dial The gradual departure from navy blue to sky blue as a watch … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 take to Mount Iwate skies celebrating the 9S movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.