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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions Monochrome
Montblanc Jul 29, 2026

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions

Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39: Did Tudor Just Fix the Chronograph’s Biggest Flaw? WatchRider
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 28, 2026

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39: Did Tudor Just Fix the Chronograph’s Biggest Flaw?

For years, the watch-collecting corners of the internet have echoed with the same tragic lament: “The Tudor Black Bay Chrono is too big! It’s too thick! The sides are too flat!” Honestly, the complaining always cracks me up. I wear the 41mm Black Bay Chrono regularly, and as a woman who supposedly falls into the “needs a smaller watch” demographic, I’ve never once felt like I was lugging around a grandfather clock on my wrist. I think the 41mm wears beautifully. But apparently, enough guys shed tears in the comments sections over those few extra millimeters that Tudor finally decided to pass out the tissues and downsize.  Let’s talk about the yellow elephant in the room. Enter the Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 (M79310N-0001). If you’re going to shrink a watch, you might as well make it loud enough that people still notice it. Tudor absolutely nailed the visual impact here. The watch has quickly earned the “Bumblebee” nickname thanks to its vibrant matte yellow dial heavily contrasted by two black snailed sub-counters. Complete with Tudor’s signature lumed Snowflake hands, a domed sapphire crystal, and a black anodized aluminum tachymeter bezel, it walks a perfect line between vintage motorsport heritage and modern swagger. While I will defend the bold, chunky stance of the 41mm all day long, I have to give credit where credit is due, the engineering on the 39mm case is undeniably impressive. Tudor didn’t just shave 2mm off the width; they completely ...

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Hodinkee
Longines Hydroconquest 39mm Although Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm

Although the most current form of the Longines Hydroconquest has only been around since March of this year, it comes up in a lot of conversations. Since its release, it has found considerable relevance with the value-focused audience, managing to strike a balance that is becoming increasingly rare – strong enthusiast value from a major brand at a competitive sub-luxury price point. In a space that used to be dominated by Omega (and more recently, Tudor), Longines has stepped up with an offering that checks a lot of boxes, including the fact that this new and nicely proportioned diver rocks a price tag that feels more 2016 than 2026. Launched in 2007 as a dive-themed spin on the brand's longstanding Conquest line, the Hydroconquest has had a handful of generations that progressively refined what started as a quirky diver with oversized numerals, chiseled crown guards, and a characterful hour hand with a diamond-shaped lume plot. Until recently, with the launch of the latest generation, that was the known format of the Hydroconquest. With modern positioning, it was just unconventional enough to stand out among its peers, and the brand's alignment with Swatch allowed for reliable movements, attractive price points, and the chance of local retail availability. An example of a 2018 Hydroconquest in 41mm offered as a US market LE.  Then, earlier this year, Longines launched this latest iteration in 42mm and, yes, 39mm. The watch you see here is the 39mm example, and its steel...

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: The Enlightened Empress - Maria Theresa and the Mechanics of Wonder Worn & Wound
Tudor England Jul 28, 2026

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: The Enlightened Empress - Maria Theresa and the Mechanics of Wonder

From the imposing astronomical clocks of Tudor England to the exquisite pendant watches of Victorian Britain, timekeeping has long been a symbol of power, prestige, and technological marvel within Europe’s royal courts. This new series explores the fascinating evolution of clocks and watches crafted specifically for royalty, tracing how these intricate masterpieces reflected the tastes, ambitions, and innovations of monarchs. Through the lens of craftsmanship, artistry, and historical significance, we reveal how these royal timepieces marked the passage of dynasties and empires. Maria Theresa was the ruler of the Habsburg monarchy from 1740 until her death in 1780, and the only woman to hold the position in her own right. Though crowned as Archduchess of Austria and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia, her true authority came from willpower, reform, and image-making. Maria Theresa ruled not as a king in disguise, but as a monarch in her own right, one who embraced both tradition and the flux of the Enlightenment. Horology, like art and music, became part of her sovereign language and a way to express her modernising ambitions and cultivated authority. Maria Theresa was born in Vienna on the 13th of May 1717, the eldest daughter of Emperor Charles VI and Empress Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel. As a child of the Habsburg dynasty, she grew up in the Hofburg Palace (below) surrounded by the rituals and splendour of imperial court life. Although her father’s hopes ...

Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead

If you clicked on this article, it probably means that Swatch didn’t select you as one of the 1,969 lucky people who can buy the MoonSwatch Mission To The Moon 1969 with its Moonshine Gold dial, hands, and pushers. If it is of any comfort to you, none of us at Fratello got one either. […] Visit Didn’t Get Picked For The MoonSwatch 1969? Here Are Five Watches You Can Buy Instead to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki

Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...

Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches Fratello
Jul 28, 2026

Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, Mike is in Florida, and Balazs is in Hungary. But we’re here for you! In today’s discussion, we tackle a listener suggestion. We’re talking about entry-level watches and how brands approach this. Hint: it’s very different today, with greater expectations from the buyer. This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: Rethinking The Definition Of Entry-Level Watches to read the full article.

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck Jul 28, 2026

Introducing - The Fascinating Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck is back in Rose Gold

Astronomical watches are part of Ulysse Nardin‘s identity, and Dr Ludwig Oechslin, like no other, shaped this chapter of the manufacture’s history. Shortly after entrepreneur Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he challenged the Swiss astronomer, mathematician and watchmaker to create a wristwatch capable of displaying the movements of celestial bodies. The result was […]

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet

The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series Monochrome
Ming Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series

There’s a new indie watch brand on the scene. It seems that we’re telling this story every week. Sometimes, or should I say rather often, these new ventures are coming with pretty fascinating inaugural watches. So is the case of Atelier Pieters, a company founded by couple Maarten and Jessica Pieters. Two watchmakers, one workshop, […]

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch

In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Just Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch

Just last week, we published a Reference Points video on the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch. The complication itself—a.k.a. the rattrapante—is incredibly important in the brand's history, forming the backbone for some of its greatest and most coveted watches of all time. However, you can't talk about the history of the split without understanding Patek's pocket watches. It's a story that eventually led to one of the brand's most meaningful relationships with a supplier that helped it grow into a powerhouse, a relationship that would last over a century. Instead of going deep in the weeds on pocket watches in our main Reference Points, we're spinning it off into this secondary article—an addendum of sorts—for those who want a bit more background. The story won't be exhaustive; Patek continued to make split-second pocket watches long after they began making the same complication in wristwatch form, and some such watches deserve (and have had) their own standalone stories. There are also many different versions because Patek, at the time, didn't make things in batches the way they would starting in the 1930s. You could probably write 20,000 words on these pocket watches, but rather than go that deep, here's an overview of Patek's split-seconds pocket watches, with a focus on Victorin Piguet's movements. Understanding Patek's History of Split-Seconds Pocket Watches (1878 to 1970s) and the Importance of Victorin Piguet If you read the first part of our story, y...

Introducing - Platinum Editions of the Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Minute Rattrapante and Chronographe Mystérieux Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier marks Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - Platinum Editions of the Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Minute Rattrapante and Chronographe Mystérieux

Parmigiani Fleurier marks its thirty years of independent watchmaking with a platinum trilogy of mechanically sophisticated models that offer on-demand complications. Reflecting the collection’s spirit of understated elegance, the complications appear almost magically when required and then disappear to restore the dial’s visual purity. Crafted from head to toe in luxurious 950 platinum, the trilogy […]

Traveling All Corners Of The Globe With The IFL Watches × Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas Fratello
Jul 27, 2026

Traveling All Corners Of The Globe With The IFL Watches × Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas

It’s summer, and many of us are getting away for a well-deserved break from work. If you are looking for a special timepiece to accompany you during your travels, IFL Watches and Perrelet present the Weekend GMT Atlas. This special collaborative effort transforms Perrelet’s Weekend GMT into a colorful travel watch that will be produced […] Visit Traveling All Corners Of The Globe With The IFL Watches × Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas to read the full article.

The Ultimate Affordable Rolex Alternative: Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 (NK0022-50A & NK0030-51X) WatchRider
Citizen Tsuyosa 60 NK0022-50A & Jul 26, 2026

The Ultimate Affordable Rolex Alternative: Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 (NK0022-50A & NK0030-51X)

We all love the timeless elegance of a luxury watch, but not everyone has thousands of dollars to drop on a Rolex. Fortunately, you don’t have to drain your savings to get that premium, high-end “Rolex energy” on your wrist. Citizen has just expanded its legendary Tsuyosa line with two stunning mechanical models: the NK0022-50A and the NK0030-51X. Featuring exquisite guilloché textured dials, upgraded automatic movements, and sleek integrated bracelets, these models offer major luxury watch vibes for just a fraction of the price. A Tale of Two Sizes Citizen recognized that watch enthusiasts have different wrist sizes and style preferences, so they released these two models with distinct personalities. The Bold and Classic: Citizen NK0022-50A If you love the unmistakable presence of a gold Rolex Datejust, the NK0022-50A is designed to catch your eye. To clarify, the comparison is with the Datejust, not the Day-Date, because the Tsuyosa has a date display but no day of the week display. Pairs a modern, 40mm gold-tone ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet with a textured, silver-white guilloché dial. It’s loud, it’s proud, and it looks like a million bucks on the wrist (even if it costs less than a decent weekend getaway). The Refined and Compact: Citizen NK0030-51X Sized at a sweet-spot 37mm, this stainless steel beauty features a mesmerizing teal guilloché dial.  For those who prefer a more understated look or have smaller wrists, the...

The Value Proposition: Caravelle Sea Hunter By Bulova Fratello
Bulova There Jul 26, 2026

The Value Proposition: Caravelle Sea Hunter By Bulova

There is a particular kind of relish in finding a watch that makes it feel as if the Quartz Crisis never happened. That was exactly the case with the new Caravelle Sea Hunter. At €270 delivered to me in Sydney, Australia, this is not a particularly expensive mechanical dive watch, nor is it one that […] Visit The Value Proposition: Caravelle Sea Hunter By Bulova to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Jimothy, the Future of the Cinerama Dome, and a New Marvel Trailer Worn & Wound
Jul 25, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Jimothy, the Future of the Cinerama Dome, and a New Marvel Trailer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Avengers: Doomsday Trailer This week, the trailer for Avengers: Doomsday was released and has already created a lot of buzz – and, of course, some backlash. While not much of the plot has been given away, we can glean a few things from the trailer, including the arrival of Victor von Doom, a confrontation with Thor, the return of Steve Rogers, and a cast that pulls from the Avengers, Fantastic Four, and X-Men corners of the franchise. Considering I’ve only seen bits and pieces of the MCU over the years, I’ve done the math and with the release date set to December 18, I can watch one Marvel film every four days and be caught up in time for its premier. Jimothy Honored by City You know, you really got to take the sweet with the sour sometimes. Sure, the world is burning, we’re in another forever war, lettuce will give you a gastrointestinal disease, and the cost of living is too high – but in return for all this suffering, we’ve been blessed with Jimothy.  For those unaware (and I’m so happy to be the one to tell you about this little creature), Jimothy is a wild raccoon in the Seattle area who has short spine syndrome, giving his body a slightly compresse...

Vacheron Constantin restoration - Les Collectionneurs | Inside the Archives Ep. 4 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin restoration – Les Collectionneurs Jul 25, 2026

Vacheron Constantin restoration - Les Collectionneurs | Inside the Archives Ep. 4

What happens when a watch brand decides vintage isn’t the enemy — but a responsibility? In this fourth and final episode of  season 1 of Vacheron Constantin: Inside the Archives, Andrew McUtchen, Justin Hast, and Vacheron Constantin Heritage Director Christian Selmoni go deep inside the world of restoration and Les Collectionneurs — Vacheron Constantin’s extraordinary … Continued

Orient Expands The Bambino Range, Including No-Date 38mm Options Fratello
Orient Jul 25, 2026

Orient Expands The Bambino Range, Including No-Date 38mm Options

Orient is giving fans more of what they want by expanding its Bambino lineup. The new Bambino 38 adds six references, including five stainless steel models and a no-date dial for the first time in the mechanical collection. Joining them is a webstore-exclusive purple dial paired with a gold-plated case. The familiar Roman-numeral layout retains […] Visit Orient Expands The Bambino Range, Including No-Date 38mm Options to read the full article.