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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Quartz Snobbery Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 9F caliber I’ve since Feb 13, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Quartz Snobbery

Snob is a loaded, and sometimes divisive word in horology. Being called a snob, or calling someone a snob, is a quick way to draw blood by attacking someone’s particular approach to enthusiasm. As an enthusiast who cherishes the community aspect of this hobby, I’ve always been proud that my foundation in this hobby was built on the absence of snobbery. Or so I thought.  I’m a frugal guy, and enthusiasm on a budget is a common theme in most of my articles. A keen eye for value shaped my early days in the hobby- an approach I haven’t managed to shake. For years, I assumed that embracing watches in all price brackets was enough to rid myself of any snobbery.  But the more I “learned” about watches, the more I noticed snobbery seeping into my opinions, and in some cases stopping me from experiencing some truly awesome watches. I’d fawn over the latest Lorier release, only to question how a Hesalite crystal would hold up to an active lifestyle. Or I’d opt not to experience a 5 ATM field watch that I truly liked, instead compromising for 10 and 20 ATM alternatives. A quartz crystal, a small part of which is bound for a Grand Seiko 9F caliber I’ve since gone through an un-learning process thanks to a handful of watches that challenged what I thought I knew and allowed me to expand my horological horizons by kicking some snobby tendencies. For the next few installments of Selling Points That Don’t Sell Me, let’s explore some selling points that DO sell me a...

So, You’re Into Watches, But You Aren’t A Wall Street Banker? - How To Thrive In A Money-Driven Hobby Fratello
Feb 13, 2024

So, You’re Into Watches, But You Aren’t A Wall Street Banker? - How To Thrive In A Money-Driven Hobby

Watches can get expensive - seriously expensive. There are no two ways about it. Luxury watch brands naturally aim their efforts at an affluent clientele. I have noticed, however, that most watch aficionados I meet have pretty regular jobs. And with pretty regular jobs come pretty regular incomes. So, if you are into watches but […] Visit So, You’re Into Watches, But You Aren’t A Wall Street Banker? - How To Thrive In A Money-Driven Hobby to read the full article.

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make? Quill & Pad
Rolex Case Study How Many Feb 13, 2024

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make?

Rolex is one of the largest, most prominent brands in the world. Unlike many other brands of this size, Rolex is a private company and so it is somewhat opaque when it comes to hard facts about what goes on behind closed doors. But some numbers can be found online, and are used to determine roughly how many watches Rolex makes a year and how much revenue is made per model.

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin 222 Feb 13, 2024

Up Close: Piaget Polo 79

In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...

Grand Seiko Unveils a New, Smaller 62GS Case in Titanium Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Unveils Feb 12, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils a New, Smaller 62GS Case in Titanium

Spring is coming early, or at least that’s what Punxsutawney Phil would have us believe. February 2 was Groundhog Day in North America. In case you don’t know (or haven’t seen the Bill Murray movie), this is the day that groundhogs around the country are coaxed from their burrows in an attempt to predict the arrival of spring weather. If the groundhog emerges to see its shadow, it will nestle back into its cozy home and winter will continue for six more weeks. Thankfully, at least for everyone pining for warmer weather, the definitive Groundhog - the aforementioned Punxsutawney Phil - predicted an early Spring. Mere days later, he has been proven right with the release of two new Spring-inspired releases by Grand Seiko. Like many Grand Seiko releases, the obvious stand-out feature of these watches are the dials. Still, before we dive into that it’s worth taking a look at the broader strokes of the SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi” and SBGH343 “Sakura-Wakaba.” These new releases come in a familiar 62GS case produced in Grand Seiko’s high-intensity titanium on a matching bracelet. Except, it’s not quite the case we’re used to seeing. When the 62GS case was relaunched by Grand Seiko back in 2019, it was upsized to 40mm. This new interpretation of the 62GS brings that back down to a wonderful 38mm. With their scaled-down dimensions and at just 12.9mm thick, these fall squarely into the goldilocks dimensions so many collectors seek out these days. Throw in the...

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio Worn & Wound
Rolex Feb 12, 2024

Watches and What Else: Nathan Bobinchak of Oak & Oscar on Perfecting Home Audio

This month I had the pleasure of speaking with Nathan Bobinchak, Head of Watchmaking for the independent brand Oak & Oscar. Nathan is a former journalist and TV news writer turned watchmaker, with an obsession for finding the best way to experience sound through home audio setups.  Watches  “I had my midlife crisis at 26.” Nathan delivers a dry joke as he recounts his career shift from local TV news, to his decision to go to watchmaking school. Specifically, Nathan attended The Litiz Watch Technicum, a watchmaking school outside Lancaster, PA that was founded in 2001 by Rolex. After graduating from Litiz, Nathan worked for a shop in Connecticut, eventually moving to Chicago at the beginning of 2020 and landing the job at Oak & Oscar.  “I first got into Oak & Oscar with the Jackson. The Jackson is a very cool chronograph with the Eterna 3916 movement in it. It’s a very neat, super complicated, pretty movement. It has a column wheel and flyback chrono…just very cool.” Nathan explained to me that in modern watchmaking you do a lot of the same things, but said he was fortunately certified to work on watches like the Rolex Daytona, as he has a lot of fun servicing chronographs. “I can go on all day about the art of lubricating a chronograph. That is some nerdy stuff. It’s like paint drying.” I was interested, so I asked him to expound. “The only thing that makes watches hard to work on is the user. We knock them, move them around, a movement will run grea...

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 12, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli SJX Watches
Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired Feb 12, 2024

Seiko Brings Out Presage Inspired by Studio Ghibli

This year is the 40th anniversary of Hayao Miyazaki’s Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, a 1984 Japanese anime film portraying the titular heroine’s valiant adventures in a post-apocalyptic world. To mark the occasion, anime studio Studio Ghibli and Seiko created the Presage Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind SPB437, a limited edition with an unusual combination of finishes, namely a blue enamel dial and a brushed steel case. Initial thoughts Seiko has long incorporated Japanese pop culture into its timepieces, drawing inspiration from iconic franchises such as Gundam and the Street Fighter video game. While the new Presage isn’t the first collaboration between the watch brand and Studio Ghibli, the Nausicaä edition is arguably amongst the best due to its classical, almost minimalist design. Even though it is a cartoon-inspired watch, the Nausicaä edition has a restrained aesthetic with stylish details. Particularly notable is the blue enamel dial featuring the emblem of the Princess Nausicaä and elongated indices. The simplicity of the dial design, combined with a steel case featuring an unusual aged finish completes the aesthetic that sets it apart from the typical Presage model. Its clean styling stands out even compared to the earlier Presage Castle in the Sky from 2021. The Nausicaä edition is priced at US$1,600, a modest increase over the previous Studio Ghibli model but still affordable. As is often the case with affordable Seiko limited editions, the m...

Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’ Quill & Pad
IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’ Every Feb 11, 2024

Why I Bought It: Collector Koen Simon And His IWC Reference 504 ‘Türler’

Every day Koen Simon looks out for special watches, and a couple months ago he noticed an IWC on an online marketplace that looked rather odd because of three things: the shape of the case, the dial, and a "Türler" signature. So he investigated the history of this beautiful watch and now shares his rather personal love story with it here.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Piaget Polo 79 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Don’t look Feb 11, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Piaget Polo 79 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

Don’t look so surprised! You already knew exactly which watches would go head to head in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 was probably the watch that was most frequently mentioned after Piaget released its new Polo 79 this week. And it makes sense. They’re both based on an earlier version […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Piaget Polo 79 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 to read the full article.

Casio G-Shock History & Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Feb 9, 2024

Casio G-Shock History & Buyer's Guide

Since its landmark release in 1983, the Casio G-Shock has represented perhaps the watch world’s purest expression of high technology blended with trendsetting style. With more than 40 years on the market, the original “world’s toughest watch” today can claim its own hardcore cadre of fans and collectors; its diverse collection spans digital, analog, and ana-digi models, boasts levels of cutting-edge technology that few watch brands can equal, and still offers timepieces at prices accessible to just about everyone. Here is the story of how the G-Shock began, how it rose from humble beginnings to become a pop cultural institution, and why it's now a model that many serious watch collectors have begun to embrace. Foundations of Casio Like many successful businesses, the Casio Computer Company, based in Shibuya, Japan, traces its origins to a resourceful innovator and a niche product that met a heretofore unfilled consumer demand. Originally founded as Kashio Seisakujo in 1946, by a technical engineer named Tadao Kashio (pictured above with his younger brothers, and fellow founders, Toshio, Kazuo, and Yukio), the company’s breakthrough product was the yubiwa pipe, a finger-mounted, ring-shaped cigarette holder that allowed a smoker (of which there were many in Japan) to smoke the cigarette down to its nib without burning one’s fingers. In postwar Japan, cigarettes were a valuable commodity not to be wasted, or to be disposed of before consuming their entirety, ...

Our Valentine’s Day Sale: Gear They’ll Love Worn & Wound
Feb 9, 2024

Our Valentine’s Day Sale: Gear They’ll Love

Love is in the air. But there’s another pleasant aroma, a sweet fragrance of fiscal responsibility and savings. That’s right, friends, the Windup Watch Shop is proud to present this year’s Valentine’s Day Sale, which begins February 9th and runs through February 15th (11:59 PM ET) for all you procrastinators. Save up to 15% on select items and take a look all throughout the shop as deals abound in every corner. To help you get started, here are just a few of the many deals waiting to be found and loved. Take advantage of this special sale and score some brownie points with your Valentine this year. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. Love is in the air. But there’s another pleasant aroma, a sweet fragrance of fiscal responsibility and savings. That’s right, friends, the Windup Watch Shop is proud to present this year’s Valentine’s Day Sale, which begins February 9th and runs through February 15th (11:59 PM ET) for all you procrastinators. Save up to 15% on select items and take a look all throughout the shop as deals abound in every corner. To help you get started, here are just a few of the many deals waiting to be found and loved. Take advantage of this special sale and score some brownie points with your Valentine this year. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The post Our Valentine’s Day Sale: Gear They’ll Love appeared f...

We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Fratello
Tudor Feb 9, 2024

We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

After test-driving two carbon fiber Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions” in October, we painted a picture in which Tudor was a sponsor of a Formula 1 team. You said we were nuts. Rolex was already too heavily involved, and Tudor would stick to surfers, sailors, and cyclists. But what do you know? In […] Visit We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Chinese New Year Watches - Featuring Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, And More Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Breguet Blancpain Feb 9, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Chinese New Year Watches - Featuring Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’ll focus on watches that celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year. Tomorrow is the start of the Year of the Dragon, which prompted many watch brands to release amazing limited-edition pieces depicting the animal that symbolizes luck, prosperity, and wisdom. The dragon is also an imperial icon that […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chinese New Year Watches - Featuring Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, And More to read the full article.

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French In Lucent Steel™ Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Feb 9, 2024

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French In Lucent Steel™

The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French Limited Edition In Lucent Steel™ is a tribute to the legendary race that inspired the collection. This watch combines elegance, performance and passion in a design that evokes the French tricolor. Press release with commentary in italics. New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph French In Lucent Steel™ TheRead More

Introducing – Jacob & Co. Stages a Fireworks Display of Art with its Mystery Tourbillon Twin Dragons Monochrome
Jacob & Co. Feb 9, 2024

Introducing – Jacob & Co. Stages a Fireworks Display of Art with its Mystery Tourbillon Twin Dragons

At the stroke of midnight, Chinese New Year kicks off with a magnificent display of fireworks and firecrackers to scare away evil spirits and welcome the Year of the Dragon. In true Jacob & Co. style, the brand releases a spectacular dragon-themed model on the eve of China’s most important festivity bristling with horological fireworks. […]