Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Servicing An Omega Speedmaster
Inside the 1861, and how a watchmaker keeps it running.
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Hodinkee
Inside the 1861, and how a watchmaker keeps it running.
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production. Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture! Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...
Time+Tide
The gift-giving season has arrived, with Christmas and other holidays just around the corner. Odds are if you’re reading this article (or any content on Time+Tide for that matter) that you, or someone you know, have a sweet spot for watch-related goodies. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait till the last minute or spend a … ContinuedThe post Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The most expensive wristwatch ever sold when it achieved US$17.52m at Phillips, the Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona once owned by the actor was a high watermark in vintage Rolex collecting when it sold in 2017. And now Phillips has sold another vintage Daytona owned by the late actor – a ref. 6263 “Big Red” – for US$5.48m including fees. Gifted by Newman to his daughter Clea in 2008, the ref. 6263 was originally given to Newman by his wife, engraved with a dedication on the back, just like the Daytona sold in 2017. Though selling for less than the 2017 example, the ref. 6263 becomes the third most valuable Rolex sold at auction, after the first Paul Newman Daytona and the ref. 6062 “Bao Dai” once owned by the last Emperor of Vietnam. Paul Newman pictured with the ref. 6263 in the 1980s The bidding for the Daytona opened at a little under US$1.00m, but dramatically jumped to US$2.00m with a bid by Paul Boutros of Phillips’ New York office. It progressed swiftly, with numerous bidders contesting the lot. But the winner was the bidder represented by Livia Russo of Phillips in Geneva, who clinched it with a US$4.50m bid, which totals US$5.48m with fees. Intriguingly, auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented during the bidding that if Ms Russo’s client won the watch, it would disappear into a private collection like the record-setting Daytona sold in 2017 – though he did not say it was the same client that that bought both watches.
SJX Watches
An iconic auto-racing chronograph of the 1970s, the Monaco ref. 1133 was nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” after the actor wore one in the 1971 film Le Mans. And now one of the actual examples worn by McQueen in the film has just become the most expensive Heuer ever sold, achieving US$2.21m with fees at Phillips’ New York auction. There were several Monacos on hand for the production of Le Mans, with McQueen retaining two after filming wrapped. The record-setting watch in question is one of the two that McQueen gifted to Haig Alltounian, both the chief mechanic for the film as well as the actor’s personal mechanic. McQueen (left) and Haig Alltounian (far right) during the filming of Le Mans Mr Alltounian received the watch – engraved with “To Haig Le Mans 1970” on the back – just after filming for Le Mans concluded. Mr Alltounian himself consigned the watch to Phillips for its recent New York watch auction, making its provenance impeccable. The bidding opened at US$150,000, progressing steadily until the air thinned at the half-million dollar mark – which leads to the conclusion that the majority of bidders had a similar limit in mind. Then only three phone bidders were left. The three-way tussle ended with a US$1.8m hammer price – with London-based James Marks of Phillips winning the lot for his client. The result was US$2.2m inclusive of fees, an all-time record for any Heuer watch. It’s also a convenient feather in the cap for TAG Heuer, which is ...
Hodinkee
This auction hero might just be the steal of the sale.
Hodinkee
Newman's other Daytona didn't bring the fireworks of three years ago, but it still put on a show at "Racing Pulse."
Hodinkee
The watch gifted to the film's mechanic becomes the most expensive Heuer ever.
Quill & Pad
A two-and-a-half-minute trailer was recently released for the forthcoming documentary 'Keeper of Time.' The film primarily follows four independent watchmakers: Maximilian Büsser (MB&F;), François-Paul Journe (F.P. Journe), Philippe Dufour, and Roger Smith. It also features interviews by scholars in physics, physiology, and philosophy as well as primarily New York City-based watch industry observers, weaving related topics about time into its fabric.
Quill & Pad
This is the story of the final watch – or, truthfully, pair of watches – that GaryG happened upon at a Sotheby’s auction in late 2017 and felt that he just had to have: two 1970s prototype pieces made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. But why "unsalable"?
Quill & Pad
The hashtag #fliegerfriday is dedicated to the genre of flieger, or pilot’s, watches posted on social media on Fridays. Tutima, which has a long history in pilot's watches, asked Bhanu Chopra for some advice on developing a special-edition #fliegerfriday chronograph and together they came up with the Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition. Here is its compelling story.
Revolution
Grand Seiko has a reputation as the maker of perfectly finished watches, where precision and performance of the highest calibre are valued above everything. And when it comes to their dive watches, the same depth is there…
Time+Tide
We are beyond excited to introduce the Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 Limited Edition of 50 pieces which is available here and the GMT2, a Limited Production 2021 model that will only be available for 12 months. These are the first two watches ever released by Time+Tide, and they arrive to mark a year when … ContinuedThe post After 6 years of dreaming about it, we’ve finally released our first watches, and we’ve partnered with George Bamford appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In a tough year, what better way to cheer yourself up than great articles on our beloved wrist-worn wonders. Hopefully you’ve enjoyed our content, whether languishing in lockdown or in a home office that’s hopefully more spacious than my little writer’s den (I gallantly offered the larger space to the wife). These are my favourite … ContinuedThe post LIST: Thor Svaboe’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 10 – Nick English, co-founder of Bremont Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Being a superstar athlete clearly has its perks. Sure, there is glory within achievements and success found in their respective sport, but if you become such an anchoring presence to a team, such as NBA player James Harden, it also means you receive quite the hefty payday. Harden, who has reportedly amassed more than $224,000,000 … ContinuedThe post Rapper Lil Baby gets big 26th birthday present from James Harden, including a Richard Mille and a hunnit grand (with pastries) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Expect the unexpected in this week's vintage lineup.
SJX Watches
Just announced as an exclusive for Seiko’s longtime distributor in several Asian countries, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT “Champagne Diamond” SBGE267G is a variation on Grand Seiko’s longstanding Spring Drive GMT sports watch with its characteristic sapphire-covered bezel and sloping case flanks. Dressed in richer colours than the black or blue of the typical Grand Seiko sports watch, the SBGE267G has a dial rendered in metallic brown that’s matched with yellow gold-plated hands and indices. Executed in steel, the SBGE267G is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement that has a second time zone function. And it’s an edition of 140 pieces meant for five countries, making it a fairly small run relative to other recent Grand Seiko limited editions. Initial thoughts Over the last couple of years, Grand Seiko has rolled out a variety of limited editions in a diversity of dial colours, but the SBGE267G still manages to be be different. Its look is distinctly more luxe than the standard Spring Drive GMT – the chestnut brown employed for the dial is unusual for Grand Seiko and striking, particularly combined with the gilt hands and markers. The brushed metallic dial surface catches the light nicely In the usual Grand Seiko fashion, the quality of the watch is excellent, with the dial and hands being especially outstanding for a watch of this price. Fabricated with a diamond-tipped tool, the hour markers and hands all have razor-sharp edges and near-mirrored su...
Time+Tide
The year is coming to a close (thank heavens) and there is a brighter horizon to look forward to in the coming months. However, there is value in reflecting on this past year, with the Time+Tide team coming in strong with amazing content throughout the doom and gloom – some of which you may have … ContinuedThe post LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Buying a pre-owned watch can be full of dangers. The watch might be fake, or not have all of the original parts, and it can be very hard to know all that - unless you have the original documentation of the watch. But even if these original papers have remained with the watch all these … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot has perfect 2020 vision in their new e-warranty system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Here Ken Gargett takes a look at a couple of the very best rosés made anywhere on the planet. Both are from Provence, more specifically Ott is from Côtes de Provence and Pibarnon from Bandol. Did you know that rosé makes for more than half of Provence’s wine production?
Time+Tide
How many watches have you seen in the metal this year? My personal tally would surely be an all-time low. The COVID pandemic cancelled watch fairs while product viewings turned into digital affairs where white-gloved reps waved their timepieces at you over live video streams. There’s no real substitute for any of this, of course. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross is no stranger to chronographs and the brand's emblematic timers have significantly contributed to its popularity. With the new BR V3-94 Black Steel, Bell & Ross adds a new chronograph to its Vintage collection, which means that it is more classically inclined than its siblings in other collections. Martin Green takes a closer, honest look.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 8 – David Gandy, male supermodel and secret watch nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
To round up the year, Lange traditionally announces novelty on Dec 7.For this year, 2 new Saxonia Outsize Date and 1 Saxonia Thin.
Time+Tide
I love this time of year. Not only because the weather is nicer and the Christmas break is on the horizon, but because it offers a chance to reflect on the year that has been, and think about the work that Time+Tide has done in 2020. In short, it’s been an extremely challenging year. Of … ContinuedThe post LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 6 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Astronomic Souveraine with minute repeater at its core is an astronomical grand complication, and like most F.P. Journe pieces it is incredibly well suited to any wrist and supremely easy to use because all the functions are set and adjusted by the crown. But is that the only reason Joshua Munchow loves it?
SJX Watches
Tudor has just opened its latest boutique in Singapore, marking the occasion with an exhibition of vintage Tudor watches that chart the evolution of the brand’s dive watches since the 1950s – Six Decades of Tudor Divers’ Watches. Taking place from December 1-13 at the boutique in ION Orchard mall, the exhibition showcases pivotal historical models, with five watches from the Tudor’s museum on show, including the first-ever Tudor dive watch, the ref. 7922 as well as the “snowflake” issued to the divers of the French navy. Here’s a look at some of the highlights on show. The display of diver’s watches, and in the background a 1986 photo of Marine Nationale divers wearing the Tudor Submariner ref. 9401. Photo – Tudor The Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to French navy divers The early days Established by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf with the intention providing more affordable watches that nonetheless had the same dependability as Rolex timepieces, Tudor has a rich history in water-resistant watches catered to professionals since the 1940s. Naturally, its most iconic sports watches have been dive watches, a lineage that started in 1954 with the self-winding Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922. The ref. 7922 The brand’s first dive watch, the ref. 7922 was launched a year after Rolex unveiled its first Submariner. As with all Tudor watches of the 20th century, much of the ref. 7922, save for the movement, was manufactured by Rolex, resulting in a watch ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 6 – James Yates, model and mental health advocate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a close look at the rare Roger Dubuis Symphatie Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Bi-retrograde in rose gold with a magnificent black dial.
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