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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Opinion: Why I Don’t Have a Grail Watch Worn & Wound
Longines or Oris Experiencing many Jan 8, 2024

Opinion: Why I Don’t Have a Grail Watch

I’ve always assumed that my affinity toward affordable watches was somewhat forced by circumstances. With limited funds in the watch bank at the start of my collecting journey, purchasing attainably priced timepieces was the only way I was going to fill more than one slot in my watch box. But years later, even as I find myself with a bit more disposable income, I can’t seem to escape the pull of a $500 watch. For me, nothing hits quite like a microbrand that is able to develop their own design DNA despite their access to the same 316L steel and 3rd party movements as everyone else. Offering those unique designs at accessible prices will never cease to impress me. A conventional journey for a collector might go something like this: Buy a Seiko 5, maybe an SNK809, to test the waters without breaking the bank. Then, when it’s financially responsible to do so, a collector might move onto an “entry level” luxury timepiece such as a Longines or Oris. Experiencing many watches and brands allows the opportunity to identify which watches evoke emotion. Often, as collectors continue to refine their taste, watches that kindle these feelings come with escalating prices. While each enthusiast has their own price range where they feel comfortable purchasing the watches they are drawn to, there is one category where we can (nearly) all find common ground: grail watches. I’ve seen a few definitions of this term over the years, ranging from dream watches we would never sell, to...

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Worn & Wound
Tudor Seiko Jan 7, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More!

Welcome to episode 71 of A Week in Watches. To make it a tradition this is a special episode, or rather, part of one of a special two-parter cleverly titled “A Year in Watches.” Yes, we’re going to take a look back at big moments and releases from 2023. As you’d expect, there’s a lot to cover, so we’re doing the “big brands” in this episode – think Omega, Rolex, and Tudor – and micros and indies in the next. Naturally, there still was too much to cover, so we focused on big launches from Watches & Wonders, what Rolex was up to (they did some weird stuff in 2023, especially for them), and then Seiko, who had a particular focus this year. If you enjoy the episode, please do like and subscribe. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Watch Goes Up Must Come Down: An Industry Insider’s Top Secret Report . . . Or Is It? Warning: You May Laugh Out Loud – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 7, 2024

Watch Goes Up Must Come Down: An Industry Insider’s Top Secret Report . . . Or Is It? Warning: You May Laugh Out Loud – Reprise

London, one day in the not-too-distant future, the final board meeting of the Lux Timepieces III Fund had been a stormy one. Principal investor Igor Abramovich had flounced out after throwing his Roger W Smith Series 1 on the boardroom table, where it shattered into dozens of meticulously handmade pieces . . . hang on to your hats because this is a wild and laugh-out-loud ride!

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A 13 Year Old Beats Tetris, “Succession” Props Head to Auction, and a Watch Saves a Life in New Zealand Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer would become Jan 6, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A 13 Year Old Beats Tetris, “Succession” Props Head to Auction, and a Watch Saves a Life in New Zealand

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The LVMH Shakeup Yesterday saw one of the most significant executive level shakeups in the watch industry in several years, with the announcement that Frédéric Arnault, previously the CEO of TAG Heuer, would become the new CEO of LVMH Watches. Arnault, part of the family that has controlled LVMH for years, will oversee operations at TAG, Hublot, and Zenith, and report to Stephane Bianchi, CEO of LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division. As part of the change in leadership in the watch division, Julien Tornare, the CEO at Zenith since 2017, will move into Arnault’s old spot at TAG Heuer. The new Zenith CEO is Benoit de Clerck, formerly the Chief Commercial Officer at Panerai, and a Richemont veteran.  Anytime there’s a shift like this in leadership across big Swiss brands, there’s a certain amount of tea leaf reading, prognosticating, and wish-casting that is bound to happen. Arnault heading the watch division at LVMH seems like a logical move given his quick rise in the company his family owns. The more interesting question, perhaps, is what Tornare’s leadership at TAG will look like....

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jan 5, 2024

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Business News: New Faces at LVMH Watches, with Frédéric Arnault Taking Charge

LVMH has just made official the long expected management reshuffle at its watch and jewellery division, with Frédéric Arnault named chief executive of LVMH Watches. Taking over from Mr Arnault as chief executive of TAG Heuer is Julien Tornare, who previously had the same role at Zenith. And replacing Mr Tornare is Benoit de Clerck, who was formerly the chief commercial officer at Panerai. Effective from the start of 2024, the management reshuffle at LVMH will likely be the first of several such moves across the industry over the next 18 months resulting from long-serving bosses retiring and a slowing market. New faces and new directions? Mr Arnault takes on a newly-created role that marks the beginning of the LVMH Watch Division – watches and jewellery were previously grouped together – which might mean more activity from the luxury giant’s trio of watch brands. He will report to Stephane Bianchi, the head of the LVMH Watches & Jewelry Division that also includes Bulgari. Mr Bianchi was reputedly recruited by LVMH owner Bernard Arnault to mentor the junior Arnault, and the pair have risen through the ranks of LVMH in tandem. Though the watch division is one of the smallest in the LVMH stable, Frédéric Arnault brings clout to the job, by virtue of both his name and experience. With a technical and quantitive background – he has a degree in applied mathematics – Mr Arnault raised the level of technical and industrial capabilities at TAG Heuer. Amongst other thi...

Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer Monochrome
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer

For some months now, we’ve heard and seen evidence that things were about to change at LVMH, a reshuffling strategy that industry insiders love to call the musical chairs of management. Things are now official as Julien Tornare, ex-CEO of Zenith, becomes CEO of TAG Heuer. He’s replaced in this role by Benoit de Clerck, […]

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs Worn & Wound
Jan 4, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs

The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition  include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000.  The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Top 5 GADA Watches Worn & Wound
Casio ns Over Jan 3, 2024

Top 5 GADA Watches

The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last century. While few of us can imagine ourselves as true one-watch aficionados, it’s satisfying to own a timepiece that just always works no matter the occasion. The appeal of these watches is easy to understand: they’re usually durable yet stylish and offer great value by fulfilling multiple roles. Here are five options from the Windup Watch Shop that we would consider GADA favorites; rest assured they’ll be with you wherever your adventures take you. The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last ce...