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New: Blancpain Ladybird Saint-Valentin 2024
Blancpain is way ahead of the pack, and have just released their Valentine's Day special for 2024 - the Ladybird Saint-Valentin 2024.
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SJX Watches
Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking
Independent watchmaking got hot in 2021, a phenomenon that accelerated into 2022 and continued in 2023. Perhaps because of that, the number of notable, impressive, or truly interesting debuts from independent watchmakers were few. Still, some of the 2023 debuts stood out for us. We rounded up our team’s favourites of the year, which range from Louis Vuitton and Rexhepi Rexhepi to Marco Lang’s open-source construction to an accessibly-priced Habring². Richard Lee Technical Editor The Marco Lang Zweigeischt-1 is an impressively executed three-hand watch with the option of a novel shock-recording complication. However, it was released in 2020. Its inclusion in the 2023 list is because of the open-source technical plans for the entire watch, all of which were made public this year on Mr Lang’s website. Mr Lang’s generosity in sharing his know-how is uncommon and to be applauded. The importance of this initiative can’t be understated. For one, it ensures the longevity of the Zweigeischt-1, since any competent watchmaker will have access to the design and construction, making servicing and repairs easier. Additionally, the accessibility of this information serves as a guidance and inspiration for new watchmakers who are attempting to create their own timepieces. Garnering much attention this year, the Petermann Bedat Reference 2941 was lauded for being an original split-seconds chronograph design with an excellent level of movement finishing. The visible components ar...
Quill & Pad
Top 10 Articles as Read by You on Quill & Pad in 2023: Rolex is King, but there are a Few Surprises, especially No.1
These are the Top 10 most-read articles by you on Quill & Pad in 2023. And without further ado . . .
Worn & Wound
Gen-Z Has Discovered Snoopy, But Watch Collectors Got Here First
Snoopy of ‘Peanuts’ fame has flown planes in World War I, gone to space, and been a baseball star-now he’s taken on a new role as a fashion and lifestyle icon for Gen Zers. In a viral moment that has come upon us rather unexpectedly (as these things always do) members of a younger generation seem to have discovered the iconic beagle all at once. Thanks to his worldly, casual confidence and enormous puffy coat, Snoopy has reached a level of popularity he probably hasn’t seen since ‘Peanuts’ was in print. To which the watch community says: welcome aboard the Snoopy train, we’ve been here for quite some time. For all the new Snoopy fans out there, here’s a brief rundown of the history of the relationship between comics’ most famous dog and the watch industry, along with some of the best Snoopy watches you can pick up. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Ouch, Right In The Childhood (@ouchrightinthechildhood) Snoopy has graced the dials of watches since the 1950s, but his popularity among watch nerds has skyrocketed (pun intended, you’ll see in a second) since Omega featured him on the Speedmaster for the first time in 2003 in recognition of the watch brand being award NASA’s Silver Snoopy Award. The award was given in recognition of the key role the Apollo 13 astronauts’ Speedmasters played in the calculations they made to get home safely. The backstory for the watch, the difficulty in obtaining one of these limited edition pieces, a...
SJX Watches
Best of 2023: Complications
Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 70 – Seiko 5’s new GMT and More!
It’s here, the last episode of the year. A Week in Watches episode 70 – wow. Though the year is coming to a close, there still is some news – big news actually – to discuss, so it’s a pretty full episode. We kick it off with some upgrades from Grand Seiko to one of their core designs. From there, we head to the UK to check out a couple of late-in-the-year releases from Farer. Then, it’s over to Switzerland to discuss Breitling’s acquisition of Universal Genève. Finally, we’re back to Japan for some new, and very cool, GMTs from Seiko 5. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. Head over to Windupwatchshop.com and be sure to check out the recently launched Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK63 Version 2s, as well straps, EDC, clocks, and more watches. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 70 – Seiko 5’s new GMT and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Adam Levine
You asked, we delivered – at home with the Maroon 5 frontman and serious Rolex collector.
Time+Tide
New releases from Arnold & Son, Hermès, AVI-8 and more
It might be Christmas time, but this week has been dominated by Lunar New Year models.The post New releases from Arnold & Son, Hermès, AVI-8 and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Top 5 Least Useful Horological Complications: And They Are Still Awesome – Reprise
In the real world, some complications are pretty useless. And that's not saying they aren’t cool. Here Joshua Munchow runs through his top 5 most useless complications and why they are simultaneously cool.
Quill & Pad
Complete Guide to Type 20 Pilot’s Watch Chronographs – Reprise
Type 20 is a specification by the French Ministry of Defense for the standard-equipment pilot's watch chronographs. Unlike German pilot's watch specifications, those for the French Type 20 are not clearly documented but are rather based on common characteristics shared by various manufacturers. Bhanu Chopra explains what makes these watches so sought after and goes through the main models and characteristics.
Hodinkee
Fashion Watches: Chanel Watches Matter, And Here’s Why
Chanel's timepieces are a modern repackaging and repurposing of the core Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel design tenets. Our Style Editor tells us exactly why we should care.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Christie's And Mohammed Zaman Settle Lawsuit That Had Impounded Watches From Massive Single-Owner Sale
The settlement ends a dispute that had paused payment on Marlon Brando's GMT-Master, among other high-profile watches from November's 'Passion for Time' auction.
Deployant
Samuel Hoffmann tells us what makes Hautlence great
We recently caught up with Samuel Hoffmann, Brand Manager of Hautlence and we discussed what makes the brand tick.And why it is making a comeback.
Time+Tide
Rolex and Apple find themselves in hot water
The world's two biggest-selling watch brands have both found themselves in legal strife just as we head into 2024.The post Rolex and Apple find themselves in hot water appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Jean Arnault, Director Of Watches At Louis Vuitton
At the helm of LV Watches for a short time, Arnault is already making waves. Just wait until you see his collection.
Worn & Wound
Legendary Marvel Comics Illustrator Adam Kubert on his Forthcoming Citizen x Marvel Collaboration
If you’re a fan of Marvel Comics or the Marvel Cinematic Universe, then you’re in for a treat, as Adam Kubert – true comic book royalty – has established a relationship with Citizen, illustrating Marvel characters on watch dials. As watch enthusiasts, I know you won’t shy away from a history lesson. So, before I launch into my interview with Adam, it’s important to understand the impact the Kubert family has had for over 70 years in comics. The prolific Joe Kubert, Adam’s father (who we lost back in 2012), began illustrating comics in the 1940s. He became renowned for his work, especially with DC Comics characters like Sgt. Rock and Hawkman. Joe Kubert was also the founder of The Kubert School in Dover, New Jersey that is still the only accredited school dedicated entirely to cartooning. The institution is responsible for churning out many of the great illustrators we have today. Adam Kubert and his brother, Andy Kubert, went on to become staples in the comic book industry, as well as teachers at The Kubert School. Adam and Andy’s niece, Katie Kubert, was an editor for both Marvel and DC Comics, and Andy’s daughter Emma Kubert is also a comic book illustrator. In essence, not only does talent for art and storytelling run in the blood, but for decades they’ve instilled that creativity in others. Adam has been in comics for five decades, illustrating comics for 35 years, the last 30 with Marvel, and has been hands-on with all our favorite characters: W...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Neo-Vintage Rolex GMT-Master II 'Coke,' A Heritage TAG Heuer 'Glassbox' Telemeter, And A Stunning Yellow Gold Patek Gondolo
Plus the "Lake Suwa" from Grand Seiko, and a Saxonia from A. Lange & Söhne that you don't want to miss.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today. 1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...
SJX Watches
Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine
The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...
SJX Watches
Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000
While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display. Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Grande Complication 5317 Reviewed by Tim Mosso
In Tim Mosso's opinion, a tourbillon watch like the Breguet Classique Grande Complication 5317 would cause a sensation. On its own terms as a modern luxury article, the 5317 is both a wonder and a comparative value.
Revolution
Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto!
Bernhard Lederer, a highly skilled Master Watchmaker of German origin, has established himself in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Saint Blaise near Neuchâtel. His exceptional craftsmanship and innovative concepts stem from a unique perspective of “Thinking Different.” With a deep appreciation for the horological heritage and a profound respect for esteemed figures like John Harrison, […]
Deployant
New: Bremont MBIII Stealth Limited Edition
Bremont releases a new collaboration with ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker - introducing the MBIII Stealth Limited Edition.
SJX Watches
Business News: Collector Settles with Christie’s Over “Passion for Time”
One of the most talked-about sales at last month’s Geneva auction season was Passion for Time at Christie’s, the dispersal of a collection belonging to Mohammed Zaman, an Omani businessman. The auction started almost an hour late with new estimates revised upwards, and majority of the lots sold to a third-party guarantor at the new low estimates. The guarantees and new estimates were announced by the auctioneer just before the start of the sale, as they should be, though it did little to dispel the confusion in the room. The proceedings immediately set off a frenzy online, some of it alleging misdeeds on the part of Christie’s. Most of it was unschooled speculation. Perhaps swayed by this, Mr Zaman quickly filed a lawsuit against Christie’s, leading to the watches being frozen. Two weeks on, the lawsuit has been withdrawn and Mr Zaman has resolved his dispute with Christie’s – a shrewd move in my opinion because he did well out of the sale. The 113 lots belonging to Mr Zaman achieved just under CHF38 million including fees – a result worthy of a standing ovation in the current market. Proof of the sale’s success was found two weeks later at the Hong Kong sales where prices were notably weaker than the results at Passion for Time, a testimony to the current market. The top lot at Passion for Time, the Philippe Dufour Grand Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 that sold for CHF5.13 million including fees All’s well that ends well According to people familiar with the ...
Time+Tide
Rolex fined $100M by France’s anti-trust agency for ‘illegal’ ban on distributors selling online
Could this hold the key for improved availability, or is it just an unimportant obstacle for the Rolex machine?The post Rolex fined $100M by France’s anti-trust agency for ‘illegal’ ban on distributors selling online appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option
Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has introduced a nearly nonstop stream of variants in their popular “SBGW” line of 37mm, manually wound dress watches. We’ve covered these watches at length, because we’re honestly pretty big fans. There’s a lot to like: they are based on the original Grand Seiko design language dating back to the founding of the brand, they are relatively affordable when compared to other watches in the Grand Seiko catalog, and they possess an elegant simplicity that is easy to dress up or down with a simple strap change. And of course, as time passes, there’s seemingly no end to the colors and textures that might pop up. But one thing has eluded collectors, at least many in the United States, and that’s a bracelet option. The Japanese market has long had the ability to pair this case with an elegant stainless steel bracelet, but the American collector has to jump through some hoops. That changed last week in an update to the collection could serve to reset the “SBGW” experience. The new SBGW305 sees the dress watch fashioned with a simple silver dial, and a case mounted to a five-row steel bracelet that appears to be virtually identical to the bracelet that was paired with the JDM model SBGW235. For a better look, you can check out our recent video on our team’s mutual love for Grand Seiko, where you’ll see Worn & Wound cofounder Zach Weiss guiding us through his own personal collection of Grand Seikos, which includes the SBGW2...
Teddy Baldassarre
Value My Watch: These Online Sources Will Tell You What Your Timepiece
We all love our watches, but in many collectors' lives there comes a time to part with a once-beloved timepiece - often in the service of acquiring an even more beloved one to replace it. And in that circumstance, even the most sentimental of us will turn our focus to the realities and practicalities of the marketplace. “How much is my watch worth?” becomes the burning question of every would-be seller, whether they’re eyeing an auction house like Sotheby’s or Phillips, an online marketplace like eBay, or a secondary-market resale giant like Chrono24 or WatchBox. Fortunately, in today’s well-served watch-enthusiast universe, there are many resources available to value your watch before selling it - most of which you can access without ever leaving the comfort of your sofa. Of course, much like selling a car for its maximum return, it’s essential for the owner to do his or her homework. Hopefully, you still have all the watch’s original documentation, including the manual, the bill of sale, and the box that it came in, all of which will be helpful in determining the most important elements that factor into your watch’s resale value - i.e., its brand, model, age, and condition. Even if you don’t have all these original documents, however, you can still use the watch’s serial number or reference number, which is usually engraved somewhere on the case, as a starting point to track down more of these details. Once a seller is armed with as much knowl...
Monochrome
Introducing – IWC Teams Up with Warner Bros for Two Aquaman-Themed Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital
Today, IWC Schaffhausen announced partnering with Warner Bros. Picture’s upcoming feature film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom to launch two new models, inspired by the red and blue glowing prop watches that the brand supplied for the production of the highly-anticipated feature film sequel. Ultra-bold, clearly on the large side, equipped with multiple complications and […]
Worn & Wound
Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release
While recovering from COVID, I recently watched a documentary I had heard about while listening to The Grey NATO Podcast. 14 Peaks: Nothing is impossible is the story of Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, who summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in only seven months. The previous record was 7 years! Nims’ goal was to highlight the Nepalese climbing community. To this day, climbing these peaks cannot be done without the incredible endurance, courage, strength, and sheer determination of the Sherpas. It is these Sherpas that inspired Enicar in the 1950s to create dive watches that could not only withstand the depths at sea but get even more water-resistant the deeper you dove. Thus, the super-compressor was born. Sadly, Enicar did not survive the 1970s quartz crisis. Thankfully, all was not lost, as in 2019 Martin Klocke of Germany revived the Sherpa and created a brand around this model. Just like its namesake, these are proper super-compressors. Featuring many of the original features combined with modern technology and know-how across two models, the Ultradive and OPS. Now, a new version of the latter is available thanks to a collaboration with a popular watch podcast. Sherpa has teamed up with The Real Time Show podcast, hosted by industry insiders Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nubbs, to create a sandblasted stainless-steel version of the OPS model (it was available only in polished steel or a black DLC finish previously). The result is a beautiful satin fin...
Deployant
New: Corum x Cortina Admiral 42 Automatic Black and Gold
Corum and Cortina releases a special Admiral 42 Automatic Black and Gold, only available on the shop.cortinawatch.com online store.