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Monochrome
It’s usually frowned upon to expose yourself in an indecent way, but when it comes to watches, it’s a different story. We genuinely get excited about seeing the intricate mechanics of a proper Haute Horlogerie timepiece dial-side, not just from the backside of a watch. Personally, I always love it when there’s more to see […]
Time+Tide
Is a gold Sub a tool watch? Or how about a Cartier Tank? D.C. certainly seems to think so.The post Every watch is a tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The brand's first in-house movement offers fine finishing and customized details born in the collector community.
Time+Tide
You can fly over to Geneva or Dubai for a watch fair, but the best selection of watches can always be found at an auction house. On December 7, 2023, Sotheby’s will be holding their latest Important Watches auction with 159 exceptional lots to go under the hammer. Ahead of the battle of the paddles, … ContinuedThe post Zach goes hands-on with five awesome lots from Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Wow… Nobody expected much in terms of watch releases this week, but some of the biggest brands in the industry unexpectedly decided to present very special pieces. In particular, Vacheron Constantin, for the first time ever, allowed the media direct access to the releases of Les Cabinotiers, the brand’s crème de la crème, usually only … ContinuedThe post New releases from Vacheron Constantin, Fears, Audemars Piguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
One of the reasons that GaryG bought a C By Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition Two is that it fits his shifting lifestyle and watch-wearing habits; as more and more of his time is spent in casual clothing and running various errands, it’s great to have a piece that has a true sporting character yet still packs the punch of a top indie creation.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Ollech & Wajs Navichron Regatta Starting off this week strong with a killer vintage Ollech & Wajs Navichron Regatta chronograph. The watch itself looks to be original and vintage, but the box and ‘papers’ that are with it are not, and neither is the bracelet. That said, the watch is really nice. The large steel skin diver case looks unpolished and the black dial looks to be in good shape. The black acrylic 12 hour bezel insert looks to be in good shape too, which is not always the case. Seller states the watch is powered by the classic workhorse Valjoux 7733 and that it’s running well and keeping time. The bracelet may not be original, but it’s the same beads of rice style as the original. Not sure what’s up with the modern/made up box/papers, but the watch head looks legit to me. View auction here Vintage Tissot Visodate Seastar Here is a neat vintage Tissot Visodate Seastar that has a unique look. The square steel case is sharp and unpolished, and has a personal engraving dated 2/19/66. The silver dial is clean, with a vertical brushed finish and has applied steel hour markers and slim steel dauphine hands. There is a date window at 6 o’clock, preserving the symmetr...
Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri came on to the scene in 2021 with a series of highly regarded chronographs using meca-quartz movements. If you weren’t around for the legitimate hysteria around these watches, well, you missed one of the key viral moments within our community from the last few years. These chronographs were a sensation, and if you had a chance to handle or own one, it’s easy to see why. They nailed all the right vintage cues, and somehow achieved an immaculate level of finishing in a watch that retailed for just $330 (though at the peak of their hype, they traded for much more on the secondary market). Still, at the time, many in the community openly wondered about the possibility of a mechanical version of these watches at some point down the line. Only a few years later, Furlan Marri has followed up that initial meca-quartz release with a trio of time-only mechanical references, as well as a truly bonkers perpetual calendar for Only Watch. Now, at long last (but not that long – again, the brand is only a few years old) Furlan Marri has unveiled their first mechanical chronographs, a series of watches that always seemed inevitable. This collection is actually a collaboration of sorts between Furlan Marri and our friends at Revolution, as well as noted collector Auro Montanari, known to many in the community by his pen name, John Goldberger. Montanari was an early supporter of Furlan Marri, and it’s not unreasonable to say that his approval of these affordable but ve...
Hodinkee
The brand that got on the map with their Mechaquartz movements releases their first mechanical chronograph with a collecting legend.
Deployant
Ressence injects a colourful touch in the new Type 1° M, bringing a sense of playful and refreshing look to their entry level watch.
Monochrome
IWC goes to town with its Big Pilot’s Watch, fitted with a tourbillon and dedicated to the protagonist of Le Petit Prince, the charming prince from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novella. Flaunting the Petit Prince sub-collection’s hallmark blue dial, the latest Big Pilot’s Watch belongs to the downsized, more manageable 43mm version introduced in 2021. Since […]
Worn & Wound
We’re nearing the end of the year, and being the type of person who is already keenly interested in list making as a form of assessment, I’ve naturally started to think about the watches, brands, and new releases that have left the biggest mark in 2023. For me personally, there probably isn’t a more important release or addition to my own collection than the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite, a watch I’ve made no secret of my admiration for many times over. Arcanaut looms large for me as an independent brand that is accessible, contemporary in their aesthetic, and willing to experiment, all things I put a high value on when it comes to new watches. Their latest releases are something of an extension of the D’Arc Matter Colors Collection we told you about a few months ago, and lean heavily into the brand’s commitment to experimenting with materials in new and interesting ways. First up is the Havender, which takes the Arc II platform and gives it a dial in a gorgeous shade of light purple. But this isn’t simply a coat of paint on a base dial – according to Arcanaut, the Havender represents the brand’s most ambitious composite dial to date. The source of the dial and its unique color comes from a surprising place: Scandinavian mussel shells. Part of the ethos of the Arcanaut brand is to source components locally whenever possible, and brand co-owner James Thompson saw an interesting opportunity via a mussel farm located close to Aracanaut’s headquarters. Once a...
Monochrome
Horage is a truly unique company within the Swiss watch industry. And this is something you immediately feel when visiting the independent watchmaking brand’s facilities in Biel. If the setting is obviously that of a watchmaking company, it also feels like a start-up when you walk across the corridors, workbenches or machines… The reason why […]
Quill & Pad
Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has just released a watch that helps you keep track of time no matter how light or dark it is outside: the Midnight Sun.
Revolution
During Dubai Watch Week, Wei and Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin, traveled to the desert to unveil six new creations under the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers program. Vacheron Constantin is renowned for its long-standing tradition of crafting bespoke timepieces and releasing an annual collection of truly exceptional and one-of-a-kind creations. This year, Vacheron […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Women make up (at least potentially) half the market for luxury watches, so why are so many women's watches little more than miniaturized, often jewel-encrusted versions of the most popular men's models? As we assembled our list of the Best Women's Watches in 2024, we aimed to focus on timepieces whose designs and aesthetic details speak most clearly and directly to the avid and growing audience of female watch enthusiasts, and strove to find offerings suitable for just about every budget. Scroll down to read the list, compiled in ascending order of price. Citizen x Disney Jasmine for Aladdin 30th Anniversary Price: $350, Reference: GA1072-07D, Case Size: 30mm, Lug Width: 10mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: Splash-Resistant, Movement: Eco-Drive Caliber J015 Citizen began a high-profile partnership with Disney in 2018 and ever since has launched special-edition timepieces designed with Disney properties and characters in mind. This model was inspired by Princess Jasmine from the blockbuster 1992 Disney animated film Aladdin, which marked its 30th anniversary in 2022. The watch has filigree detailing on its gold-tone steel case and an arabesque scroll pattern on its mother-of-pearl dial, which also features an on-theme genie’s lamp icon at 6 o’clock. An Eco-Drive movement, ensconced behind a caseback inscribed with the motto, “Life’s a Magic Carpet Ride,” ensures that the wearer need never change the battery. The watch is delivered on a teal leather strap an...
Worn & Wound
For nearly seven years, French watch brand Baltic has been producing at a luxury level that far exceeds its retail price point. We’re always excited to see them fill out their collection with new references, and today they add three new additions to the MR01, Bicompax, and HMS lines. Think of these new releases as sisters, if you will. Each reference combines black and, in a first for Baltic, gold PVD, for an elegant finish, but each has its own distinct personality. First there is the MR01. Best described as “small but mighty,” this 36mm reference sits comfortably on either a man’s or woman’s wrist with a 9mm case height, while also being tonally perfect to wear as your dress watch. A subsidiary seconds subdial is found at 7:00, while the rest of the dial is pared-down and handsome, featuring subtle details like Breguet numerals and leaf hands. The MR01 is powered by a Hangzhou CAL5000a automatic movement, wound via a micro rotor, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. Next up is the black-and-gold addition to the Bicompax line-up. Inspired by watches of the 1940’s, the Bicompax 02 case comes in at a comfortable 38mm. Given the time period of its reference point, it’s no wonder that much of this design was inspired by the Art Deco period. The design features a brushed sector housing the hour-markers, along with two subdials sporting a stylish azurage finish. The remaining dial is polished, introducing a subtle contrast to the overall look. Addi...
SJX Watches
Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...
Hodinkee
Chronograph, center-seconds, and micro-rotor; the whole family just got a bit shinier.
SJX Watches
Singapore watch retailer Sincere Fine Watches has opened its newest Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in Pavilion Mall located in Kuala Lumpur prime shopping district. As the biggest of the retailer’s many stores, the new establishment will serve as Sincere’s flagship, not only in Malaysia but throughout Southeast Asia. Covering 5,000 square feet, this boutique is dedicated to independent watchmaking, as all SHH stores are. Amongst the 17 brands on offer are Greubel Forsey and H. Moser & Cie. Alongside the watches is a private lounge with a bar, and an upscale dining area. The street-front facade with a custom LED screen An further expansion of the SHH concept Established almost two decades ago as a concept store focused on independent watchmaking, SHH is a vital part of Sincere, which was founded in 1954, making it Singapore’s oldest watch retailer. In 2020, fellow retailer Cortina Holdings acquired Sincere and revived the SHH concept, rolling it out in other markets including Taiwan and Thailand. The store is set to offer timepieces from 17 mostly independent brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier and Ferdinand Berthoud. The offer, however, is diverse, ranging from the classical to the extravagantly modern with Jacob & Co. And limited editions crafted specifically for SHH Kuala Lumpur will be released in due time, as was the case with its boutique at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands. The boutique’s interiors are embellished in gold and copper tones to e...
Hodinkee
The brand in context, examining the collectability of the Baumberger and Pratt era – plus Kari Voutilainen on what comes next.
Worn & Wound
In the year since Atelier Wen and Wristcheck collaborated on their first limited edition Perception, Atelier Wen’s stature in the burgeoning affordable independent scene has only grown. This has largely been on the strength of a series of smartly timed and well executed limited editions, all of which provide a gorgeous showcase for some excellent guilloche work, and serve as a reminder that well made, integrated bracelet sports watches need not drift into five figure retail prices, and that they can come from places other than Switzerland. Now, in a turn of events that is anything but surprising given the attention this team received a year ago, Wristcheck and Atelier Wen have partnered once again, but this time they’ve added a third collaborator: Paris-based artist Seconde/Seconde, who I feel like has been part of virtually every LE launch over the last several months (only a slight exaggeration). The new piece, officially dubbed the Wristcheck x Seconde/Seconde/ x Atelier Wen Perception “锔瓷” Special Edition, calls attention to the high level of craft in this watch in a unique way: by highlighting the inevitable mistakes that are made in its production. The concept here originates with the production of the first Atelier Wen x Wristcheck collaboration last year. During the making of that LE, 36 dials in total were rejected for various imperfections in the guilloche. Not wanting to put them to waste, those dials have now been “healed” (with Seconde/Second...
Worn & Wound
In 2019 Roue introduced their TPS line chronographs, which are inspired by the Porsche 910 that won the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967. These watches feature both Tachymeter and Pulsometer scales surrounding the dial. Just in case you need to check your pulse, while at the same time measuring your speed. For 2023, Roue has come up with two more versions of their popular TPS line. Following in the footsteps of the previous five, we have the aptly named Six (with white dial), as well as the Seven (with a graphite/grey dial). Both feature tone on tone subdials with multi-color accents for a look that is inherently cohesive but still visually interesting. You would think two timing scales would make for a cluttered dial. In this case, you would be wrong. The tachymeter scale begins where the pulsometer ends, neither overlapping the other. It is remarkably clean and easy to read. This clarity is further enhanced by the lack of any text on the dial, apart from the brand name. Powering these chronographs is the Seiko caliber SII VK63, which is a Mecha-Quartz movement. For those that need a refresher, these movements blend quartz timing precision and mechanical chronograph technology. This allows for the tactile pleasure of that satisfying snap when activating the chronograph, along with the second-hand sweep we enthusiasts so enjoy. Aside from these 2 great characteristics, the biggest benefit of using this movement is its size and low cost. All TPS watches featur...
Teddy Baldassarre
In a world where the vast majority of wristwatches have round cases (about 80 percent, according to industry estimates), wearing a watch with a rectangular case is a great way to stand out from the crowd and perhaps to fly a flag of appreciation for the vintage designs of a bygone era - specifically the early 20th Century, the prime of the Art Deco movement. Best of all, just like their more ubiquitous round-cased counterparts, rectangular watches come in a wide variety of styles and price points, so there are options both for intrigued newbies as well as seasoned collectors looking to add a non-round timepiece to their personal rotation. Here are 12 rectangle watches worth your attention (and yes, we've left out iconic pieces like the TAG Heuer Monaco and Bell & Ross BR-01, which are squares rather than rectangles; perhaps we'll do a roundup of square watches one of these days soon). Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way Price: $575, Case Size: 29.5mm, Case Height: 9.05mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Miyota IL45 Bulova’s Frank Sinatra collection pays homage to the eponymous pop music legend, who owned many Bulova watches throughout his life and counted Bulova as a sponsor of his Frank Sinatra Show on TV in the 1950s. The watches’ designs are inspired by Sinatra’s 1950s-1960s heyday, when smaller, thinner watches were in vogue. The Art Deco-influenced “My Way” model in gold-toned steel features a w...
SJX Watches
In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold. The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...
Time+Tide
Retro-inspired racing chronographs are some of the hottest watches in the industry, so it's no wonder Seiko is expanding the Speedtimer range.The post Seiko launches two panda-flavoured Speedtimer chronographs inspired by a 1972 design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Before Ken Gargett smoked a Diplomaticos 30th Anniversary PCC Cigars, he asked for some thoughts. The responses ran the gauntlet from seriously good to stunning.
Time+Tide
The Franco-Chinese duo make the most of Atelier Wen's perfectionism with the Perception 锔瓷.The post Atelier Wen, Wristcheck, and seconde/seconde/ show that Perception is everything appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The latest and greatest SHH opens in Pavillon, Kuala Lumpur. We attended the launch event, and bring you this short report.
Worn & Wound
Last week marked the 6th edition of Dubai Watch Week, an educational forum and brand exhibition situated in the heart of Dubai’s Financial Center. This is not a commercial event (no watches are sold by the exhibiting brands) but rather an event put on for the community, featuring masterclass sessions around the craft, open forums from watchmakers, and even debates between collectors and media personalities. This year offered a selection of new release announcements and incredible talks to take in (along with some truly epic watch spotting along the way), and we also took the opportunity to take in a bit more of the surrounding region with a few dives, a trip to the world’s tallest building, and even some Formula 1 racing down the coast in Abu Dhabi for good measure. Dubai Watch Week is organized by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the region, offering everything from Rolex and AP, to Urwerk and MB&F;, many of whom are represented in the fair. The grounds of the fair are open to the public and free to attend (though registration is required), with a strong presence from the local enthusiasts communities and their families. Meeting members of the Dubai Watch Club, as well as some enthusiasts passing through the region to take in the fair (including several from our own W&W;+ Slack channel) was among the highlights of my time in Dubai. The fair itself was split into two sections, with an indoor hall surrounded by an outdoor pathway upon which some of th...
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