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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 54 Just May 30, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 54

Just launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, the Black Bay 54 is the latest step in the evolution of Tudor’s mainstay line of dive watches. Inspired by the brand’s first dive watch of 1954, the Black Bay 54 is clearly vintage-inspired. But more notably, it is the most compact dive watch in the Tudor catalogue at just 37 mm in diameter, making it one of the brand’s most wearable offerings. Though scaled down in terms of size, the Black Bay 54 still possesses all of the characteristics that define Tudor watches, namely a high-spec in-house movement (with a 70-hour power reserve no less) and affordable price tag. Initial thoughts As I mentioned in the article introducing the watch, the BB54 is perfect for anyone wanting a wearable dive watch that pairs vintage style with corresponding vintage proportions. The minimalist approach is evident not just in the size, but also details like the bezel insert, which has been simplified to feature just five-minute markers.  Despite the familiar vintage aesthetics and clean line that define the Black Bay, the Black Bay 54 (BB54) is compelling. For one, it catches the eye for being noticeably smaller on the wrist than its Black Bay siblings. While it is certainly compact, maybe even small by contemporary standards, the BB54 doesn’t look diminutive on the wrist. Perhaps because of the stark, functional design and “gilt” dial, the BB54 has more presence than its 37 mm would imply. I like the watch very much as it is, but if there w...

Micro-Brand Digest: Windup Watch Fair Edition Worn & Wound
May 30, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Windup Watch Fair Edition

This edition of Micro-Brand Digest will be focusing on some of the brands that exhibit at our Windup Watch Fair. Every year upon walking into the fair during setup, the editorial team often gets their first look at many of the exhibiting brands, as we are a separate entity to the event and commerce components of Worn & Wound, so each fair we discover some of the brands right alongside you.  In addition to discovering these new brands, we get the added benefit of meeting the people behind them, which adds a depth to the brand that otherwise may not be immediately apparent. This is the beauty of a show like Windup, connecting with the passionate people making these watches, and hearing their stories first hand. So in this edition of Micro-Brand Digest, we’re putting a spotlight on some of these people and the watches they’re creating. Vieren Vieren is a fashion watch brand, but maybe not in the way you’d expect. The watches are indeed chic, and present a fashion forward design language that embraces clean lines, stark whites and blacks, and textures you’d often see on the runway. That’s because the creative head of the brand, Sunny Fong, is a fashion designer for the womenswear label, VAWK, and even won Project Runway Canada. Sonny brings this sensibility to Vieren watches, eschewing typical watch industry trends in the process. Vieren’s founder, Jess Chow, brings a passionate energy to the brand, and is one of our favorite people to see at Windup. Jess has brou...

Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses May 30, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023

The Watches & Wonders stand of Jaeger-LeCoultre is always one of the most attractive exhibitions, as the watchmaker of watchmakers know exactly how to best use their horological status. This year, the Stellar Odyssey collection has made way for a focus on harmony and beauty, with Jaeger-LeCoultre returning to the Reverso Tribute as their basis … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aquastar Returns to Their Origins with New Model 60 Worn & Wound
Rolex who’s experimental Deep Sea May 30, 2023

Aquastar Returns to Their Origins with New Model 60

In 1960, Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh made their record dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench within the Trieste bathyscaphe, a feat not equaled until 2012 by James Cameron in the Deepsea Challenger. The story of the Trieste is the stuff of legends, the watch brand we generally associate with the trek is of course, Rolex, who’s experimental Deep Sea Special survived the crushing 10,916 meters of depth strapped to the exterior of the vessel (something they did again with the Deepsea Challenger). Enthusiasts are likely also aware of the Lognines stopwatches aboard the Trieste (as well as Piccard’s own 13ZN Chronograph), but there is another watch tied to this story, and this is the JeanRichard Aquastar 60 worn by Don Walsh. A watch that’s being honored in the release of a new Model 60 by Aquastar this week.  The Aquastar 60 was designed by the brand’s founder, Frédéric Robert in 1958, and represents the earliest design DNA of the storied brand. The new Model 60 captures the spirit of the original in many of the right ways, while carving a new path all its own in the process. The watch falls very much into throwback territory which, these days, has a very blurry boundary between modernity, it seems. Whatever the case, the Model 60 is a simple, sharp diver that embodies many of the base design codes of the genre in the best ways possible. The newest Model 60 gets a lovely skin-diver-esque 37mm steel case with square lug design that places all emphasis on the bus...

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 30, 2023

Hammer Time: Expert Advice for Selling your Watch at Auction – Reprise

Many of us have seen and heard the auctioneer’s hammer crash down on the final bid of a famous well-fought-over item. What interests Chris Malburg – apart from the artifact itself – is the seller. Why the sale? Is this is a one-off event or does he or she have more to offer? What brought them to this hammer time? This article explores motives for and provides expert advice on selling a watch at auction.

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite May 28, 2023

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani”

A prominent figure thanks to his Instagram account documenting his impressive collection of independent watchmaking, Mike “Shani” Shanlikian is an American collector who watches that are widely regarded as the most important in the genre, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain. Mr Shanlikian was recently interviewed by George Mayer, the head of sales at pre-owned watch retailer Watchbox. Himself a watch aficionado (and sporting an F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle with matching bracelet), Mr Mayer quizzed Mr Shanlikian on his collection and delved into his motivations for collecting independent watchmaking in the 23-minute video interview. An F.P. Journe tourbillon duo. Image – Mike Shanlikian The Akrivia AK-06 and RRCC I. Image – Mike Shanlikian A few watches from the collection. Image – Mike Shanlikian Watchmaking is a fusion of science and art, according to Mr Shanlikian, who notes in the increasing interest in independent watchmaking was driven by F.P. Journe and comparable brands that rely on traditional methods to create watches. He showcases some favourites from his collection in the video, including the “1 in 30” Chronometer by American watchmaker Keaton Myrick. But the most significant watches are documented in the video are the George Daniels Millennium and Dufour Simplicity, matched by their contemporary counterparts, the Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia AK-06 and Gre...

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch May 28, 2023

WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1?

Welcome to another episode of WHAT IF…, where we ruminate on the alternate reality of a watch industry in a parallel universe. For this installment, we take a look at TAG Heuer’s Formula 1, a legendary part of horological history, famed not for its elevated status, but for its fun-loving appeal to even non-watch people. … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… TAG Heuer created their own MoonSwatch moment with a retro Formula 1? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Commissioning A Bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire: A Collector’s Personal Experience (Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grönefeld May 28, 2023

Commissioning A Bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire: A Collector’s Personal Experience (Video) – Reprise

Dr. William Julien, an experienced watch collector, sent us a link to a video that he and his son, William Alexander Julien, made about the journey of his commissioning of a bespoke Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire. The nine-minute video is very moving and beautifully filmed and edited. I highly recommend that you pour yourself a glass of your favorite tipple and hit play: it will not disappoint.

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties Deployant
Cartier Top 3 favorites from May 27, 2023

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties

Discover the exquisite world of Cartier luxury watches, including iconic collections like the Cartier Tank and Cartier Santos. Explore the artistry, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance of these Swiss timepieces, crafted by one of the most prestigious heritage brands in the industry. Delve into the historical significance and innovative designs that have made Cartier a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

Watch Scrolling: Kat Shoulders Picks Five Instagram Accounts that are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Louis Errard Messena Lab May 26, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Kat Shoulders Picks Five Instagram Accounts that are Worth a Follow

We hope that heading into Memorial Day weekend you’ve got plans to do things other than constantly scroll through Instagram, but let’s be real: for watch enthusiasts, a long weekend is just a few extra hours to climb down the collecting rabbit hole. To that end, Watch Scrolling is back, this time with a selection of Instagram accounts curated by Kat Shoulders, Worn & Wound’s Media Production Manager. If you need even more IG recommendations, be sure to check out previous installments of Watch Scrolling from Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan. As always, we want to hear from you, so feel free to drop your favorite watch related IG accounts in the comments below – we’d love to see them. @secondeseconde   View this profile on Instagram   seconde/seconde/ (@secondeseconde) • Instagram photos and videos I’ve always been fascinated with people who make art from already existing objects and that’s exactly what @secondeseconde has done with watches. A little funny, a little tongue in cheek, they are always sure to make you kind of smirk as you see his artwork scroll across your feed. There’s a certain physicalness he brings to Instagram that I really love, even when it’s simply a photo within a photo of a watch. Call it vandalism or call it art, you gotta give mad props to him for collaborating with some big brands like Moser, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen, Louis Errard, Messena Lab, and more. I can’t wait to see what he does next! @pockettrinkets   View this profi...

TAG Heuer Releases a Trio of New Monacos with Skeleton Dials Ahead of a Big Race Weekend Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Releases May 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Releases a Trio of New Monacos with Skeleton Dials Ahead of a Big Race Weekend

The Monaco Grand Prix is this weekend (be sure to check out Time on Track next week for a full recap) and to celebrate what many consider the marquee race on the F1 circuit, TAG Heuer is releasing a trio of new Monacos with skeleton dials. What? You thought they’d release new Monzas? While a run of new Monacos released to coincide with the race that the watch is named after is perhaps predictable on the part of TAG Heuer, fans of the funky square cased chronograph still have reason to be excited. These Monacos make a very different impression than the more traditional, vintage inspired references that are TAG’s bread and butter, and might even pull new enthusiasts into the world of a watch that has long had an intense cult following.  Somewhat surprisingly, these new Monacos represent the first time this watch has been released with a skeleton dial. According to TAG, the goal here was for a avant garde interpretation of the Monaco, which is fitting as the original watch, when it was released in 1969, was also a representation of the avant garde of its day. A square cased chronograph was well outside the norm, particularly in the racing world, and that first Monaco would have felt like an unusual choice to potential owners in the late 60s and early 70s. Obviously, it caught on, and has developed a following made up of racing enthusiasts, chronograph collectors, and fans of unique and iconic designs. Most notably, of course, the watch was worn by Steve McQueen in the ra...

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers Worn & Wound
Halios May 26, 2023

Halios is Back with a New Limited Edition Made in Collaboration with Topper Jewelers

Halios, Jason Lim’s microbrand that has developed a rabid following over the years, only increasing as new releases have slowed, is releasing a new watch today in a collaboration with Topper Jewelers out of Burlingame, CA. It’s a new Universa, but it incorporates dial elements typically found in the Seaforth, the watch that is in many ways the brand’s calling card. In that sense, it’s a bit of a hybrid, combining several elements of Jason’s design language that have endured over the years.  The Universa has a 38mm stainless steel case that is mostly brushed, but has a classic polished chamfer along the lugs. It has a sculpted, almost architectural feel to it, with wide facets and gentle curves. The bezel-less design gives the watch an old-school, no nonsense sports watch vibe, and it certainly wouldn’t be crazy to note that the watch takes plenty of inspiration from classic tool watches.  It’s the dial, though, that makes this Universa special. It’s a crisp white with hands and hour markers that have been accented in black for maximum contrast. The layout is taken directly from the Seaforth, and includes the same thick, applied hour markers that give the dial an increased sense of depth. Hash marks on the minute scale alternate between blue, yellow, and green, representing natural elements found near Topper’s headquarters in Burlingame (the ocean, northern California sunshine, and giant redwood trees).   Speaking to the intensity of Halios’ followin...

Rolex Milgauss Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 26, 2023

Rolex Milgauss Guide

Rolex, as always, made news at Watches & Wonders Geneva back in April with many of the new watches it will be releasing this year (we covered many of them here), but the Swiss luxury brand generated nearly as much buzz with an announcement about a watch that it won’t be making anymore. Back in March, Rolex announced that the Milgauss, a model it had been making continuously since 2007, with roots that go back even further, would cease production this year. The news was not necessarily a shock to everyone - the Milgauss was not on a par with Rolex’s most popular models, waiting-list mainstays like the Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master - but it was a disappointing splash of reality to the subgroup of Rolexistas who love the cult-classic antimagnetic watch, while also serving as a call to attention for watch-market speculators who rarely find a Rolex shortage that they aren’t eager to monetize. What makes the Milgauss such a niche favorite in the Rolex portfolio? Read on. Rolex founder Hans Wisdorf (above) could be described as many things: a visionary entrepreneur, a brilliant marketer, a founding father of the modern watch industry. But at his true core, Wilsdorf was essentially a problem solver. Just about every contribution that he and his company made to horological history sprang from a dedication to fixing or eliminating some issue that plagued watch wearers. Too tedious to wind your watch every day? Here’s the Perpetual movement (below). Your watch isn...

Bulgari’s high jewellery watches take inspiration from Mediterranean flora and fauna Time+Tide
Bulgari s high jewellery watches May 26, 2023

Bulgari’s high jewellery watches take inspiration from Mediterranean flora and fauna

With the rise of their watches popularity on the back of some pretty stellar releases – the Octo Finissimo, recent Octo Roma, and the ever-evolving Serpenti come to mind – us watch-o-philes could be forgiven for overlooking Bulgari’s accomplishments in high jewellery. Last week, at the Palazzo Ducale in Venice, Bulgari unveiled the Mediterranea High … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s high jewellery watches take inspiration from Mediterranean flora and fauna appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: AP has a MARVELous week with a new watch, new CEO and US$6.2M auction result Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 26, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: AP has a MARVELous week with a new watch, new CEO and US$6.2M auction result

Often watch brands release their new products at the same time so they’re all fighting for the spotlight. But Audemars Piguet is very good at picking their moments to dominate the conversation the week something drops (like introducing a slew of new novelties during their AP Social Club at the beginning of each year). Well, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: AP has a MARVELous week with a new watch, new CEO and US$6.2M auction result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI May 25, 2023

Breitling Introduces New Classic AVI “Co-Pilot” With 42mm Case

Breitling revealed their modern Super AVI collection in 2021 at an airstrip in Dallas, with actual war planes and pilots on hand. We brought you live coverage right here, and as nice as we found some of the designs, the cases themselves, which clocked in at 46×15.9mm, were a tougher pill to swallow. In an attempt to address this, Breitling has introduced a new Classic AVI family into the collection, which features a more wrist-friendly 42×14.7mm case at the expense of the GMT complication found in the Super AVI family. Further still, within this release is a 41mm ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition that stays true to old school form both inside and out.  The new Classic AVI watches bring the same design language we saw in the Super AVI, which itself is a reference to the Breitling reference 765 from the early ‘50s, a watch that earned the nickname “Co-Pilot” for its usefulness to pilots of the time. The Super AVI watches featured designs that drew inspiration from iconic WWII planes, and the Classic AVI collection makes use of the same schemes to great effect. This includes the P-51 Mustang, Vought F4U Corsair, Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and Mosquito planes, which are each represented in the 4 different colorways. The newest AVI watches use the Breitling Caliber 23, which is their modified Valjoux 7753. This means the pricing is also considerably more attractive than the Super AVI collection, with prices starting at $5,800 for leather strap equipped watches, and $6,200 if you pre...

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm

New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” marks second Marvel collaboration after “Black Panther” Continues tradition of a limited edition of 250 pieces, with a piece unique “Black-suit Spider-Man” to be auctioned for charity The solid white-gold, hand-painted and engraved Spider-Man figure requires no less than 50 hours of work When Audemars Piguet debuted … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9 Time+Tide
Rolex Daytonas owned May 25, 2023

Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9

Some people think you need to wait for Watches & Wonders to see new watches, but this June in New York, there are dozens of pieces seeing the light of day for the first time in decades. Over at Sotheby’s New York, two auctions are bringing out some heavy-hitting heroes. In the Important Watches Sale … ContinuedThe post Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Photo Report: Porsche and Watch Spotting at Rally Point East’s Third Annual Porscheast Worn & Wound
May 24, 2023

Photo Report: Porsche and Watch Spotting at Rally Point East’s Third Annual Porscheast

The beauty of collecting is that it can totally be specific to you. There isn’t a right or wrong way of doing it. Just pick your lane, whether that be enjoying your collective interests from a thirty thousand foot view above or really getting into the niche weeds, and stick with it. Or not! Again, that’s the beauty of it all – you can zig and zag. Porsche enthusiasts know this all too well. One Porsche enthusiast can enjoy the brand for what it is; a powerful piece of German engineering known for its precise-handling, longevity and entertaining driving experience. You can also meet another Porsche enthusiast that can be hyper focused into one little definitive area of the brand whose interest can oftentimes spark a spirited debate with another fellow Porsche compatriot with a conflicting keenness. Vintage versus Modern. Air-Cooled versus Water-Cooled. 959 versus 964 (insert any other Porsche model debate here). Stock versus Mod. So on and so forth. However despite the differences, it’s the deep enthusiasm that binds everyone together. Top. Down. A couple of weekends ago, Rally Point East hosted their third annual Porscheast event, bringing together all sorts of enthusiasts and radical Porsches alike. Situated in Westhampton Beach, Rally Point East is an automotive club that provides a space for like-minded individuals to gather and talk about all things cars and other adjacent interests. The club offers a suite of perks to its members not limited to vehicle storage...

Bulgari is Ready for Summer with Beach Ready “Capri” Updates to their Aluminum Collection Worn & Wound
Bulgari May 24, 2023

Bulgari is Ready for Summer with Beach Ready “Capri” Updates to their Aluminum Collection

At the time of this writing, we are less than a week out from Memorial Day weekend, the unofficial start of summer. So you’ll forgive us if we’ve got summer watches on the brain. Looking ahead to the warmer months, vacations, travel, and relaxing purely for the sake of it is a good opportunity to consider watches that fit the bill. There’s something about the ultra formal that doesn’t exactly have us thinking about the beach, and cocktails with little umbrellas in them. Luckily for all of us, watch brands understand this, and we’ve seen an influx of cheerful and seasonally appropriate watches hit the landscape just in the last few weeks. One release from the Bulgari, a multi-watch update to their Aluminum collection, feels particularly ready for a tropical disposition.  The Aluminum is a throwback to a Bulgari style that was at its peak in the 90s. Longtime podcast listeners will remember that I have a particular fascination with the Diagono line that these watches are clearly meant to evoke. Being made from aluminum, they are ultra lightweight, and have unique integrated rubber bracelets that are not really exactly like anything else out there. But the feature that truly divides people with these watches is the bezel, made from rubber that matches that bracelet and stamped twice with the Bulgari wordmark, just in case you forget what brand you’re wearing, or have an inclination to see what the brand name looks like upside down. It’s a strange design choice,...

Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back… Time+Tide
Rolex May 24, 2023

Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back…

In March this year, Premier League footballer Rico Henry was in a London hotel when he somehow managed to lose his Rolex. The watch had apparently fallen out of his pocket. When Henry discovered that his Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHMR was missing, the Brentford left-back was understandably distraught. But when he checked with the … ContinuedThe post Had a watch stolen? Use this Premier League footballer’s tactic to get it back… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.