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New: Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie
Louis Erard releases their new Excellence Marqueterie, featuring the works of indepedent artisan Bastien Chevalier's wood marquetry work.
Results for The Longitude Problem
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Time+Tide
Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!?
Rolex is notoriously secretive about their releases, keeping their novelties completely under lock and key until the moment the embargo lifts. Sure, people constantly put together prediction videos or claim to have leaks in social media posts. But these often turn out to be figments of the imagination rather than reality. It is quite ironic … ContinuedThe post Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Gold Cases, Textured Dials, and Calculators
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...
Worn & Wound
Bremont Broadsword Gets Armed Forces LE Treatment
Henley, Oxfordshire. Pimm’s and Regattas. The splendid River and Rowing Museum. Particularly vindictive traffic wardens. And ‘The Wing’, Bremont’s HQ. There are plenty of reasons to try to wangle an invitation to look around. Nick’s dog Pedro, for a start – he’s lovely. The coffee’s good. The building itself is remarkable. Where else do you find a regularly changing selection of classic cars in a reception area? Last time I was there it was a restored Land Rover half-ton Lightweight. And, if you’re into your military watches, there’s an entire wall of them with an example of every unit, squadron or crew model the firm has made. Some you’ll have heard of, others are, quite deliberately, not exactly household names. It’s not surprising. Bremont tend to build their watches (‘build’ seems like a better word than ‘make’ in this context) to take a knock or two. I’ve had one of their MBIIs since 2011 and, despite almost G-Shock levels of abuse, it’s never missed a beat. So even though you’re more likely to see a G or an F-91W on exercise (losing a $15 Casio in the mud is easier to stomach than a nearly $4k Bremont), there’s little doubt they’d hack the pace. Now there’s a new watch for the Armed Forces Collection – the Broadsword Recon. Bremont’s Broadsword range has been around since 2019, the year the firm signed the Armed Forces Covenant to support those who serve or have served. Practically, in the case of the Broadsword, ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction
Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...
Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Adds a Trio of Sector Dial Three-Handers to their Permanent Collection
You might recall that when Blake Buettner brought us news of Furlan Marri’s very first fully mechanical watch (after the success of their popular meca-quartz chronograph that we still can’t believe ever sold for under $500 during the crowdfunding campaign) he mentioned that the limited production black dialed three hander he had in for review would be followed up by a trio of models in the brand’s permanent collection. That was in June of 2022, and at long last, those watches are here. These three new references use the same platform as the previously issued “Black Sector” 2116-A, but in an array of colors that give the watch a new impact. The new dials, Salmon Sector, Grey Sector, and White Sector, have been given reference numbers 2154-A, 2161-A, and 2145-A, respectively. While the Grey Sector has what Furlan Marri refers to as a double printed dial, the white and salmon versions both have applied baton hour markers, and all references have a fine texture applied to the dial. The Breguet style numerals at the cardinal positions have become a hallmark of sorts for Furlan Marri, and those remain on all three variants. Dial text is minimal (just the Furlan Marri wordmark and the reference number discreetly out of the way between 4 and 5), the sector layout identical to the black version from last year. Fans of aggressive symmetry will be quite pleased, I think. An area where Furlan Marri has excelled since the launch of that first chronograph back in 2021 is i...
Worn & Wound
Doxa’s New Sub 200 C-Graph II is Smaller, Slimmer & Ready for Your Next Cave Dive (Or Not)
When I hear the words “Doxa Sub,” it’s hard for me to not start conjuring images in the ol’ noggin of that wide cushion, pebble-like steel case, the orange accented no-deco table splitting bezel duty with an elapsed time display, and the ever-so whimsical dial. The Sub 300 is a damn near perfect watch, in my humble opinion. But lately (over the course of two years), Doxa has given their flagship dive watch some company within their catalog by way of a couple releases that, at glance, might not resemble the Doxa you and I are used to. The brand with a storied history in the sport of diving and oceanic exploration has been doing some exploring of their own, but into different case design waters. I’m referring to their contemporary divers that use more of a conventional round case shape like the Sub 200 and the Sub 200 C-Graph. Recently, Doxa released the second coming of their Sub 200 chronograph with the Sub 200 C-Graph II. There are notable differences with the newcomer that include several models within the collection now sporting a steel bezel (as a traditional Doxa should have), a new dial finish, and smaller case proportions that amount to a more wearable, everyday diver. When the Doxa Sub 200 C-Graph was introduced in 2020, it reintroduced a chronograph into their expansive regular production diver collection. It was (and still is) a three-register chronograph that attempted to keep some of the vintage charm with its faux-patina markers. In terms of its case...
Deployant
New: Glashütte Original PanoInverse 2023 Limited Edition
Glashütte Original extends their PanoInverse collection with a new 2023 limited edition model in platinum with hand engraving on the dial and back.
Quill & Pad
Masseto Super Tuscan Wine From Italy: If Not Better Than Petrus, It’s Close
At a blind wine tasting many years ago that included a superb Petrus, for many of the tasters, including Ken Gargett, the superstar on the night, was something called Masseto, an Italian Merlot from the 1993 vintage. At the time, none of them had even heard of Masseto, let alone had any idea that an Italian Merlot might top one of the most famous wines on the planet. It was an obscure Italian Merlot back then, but all that would soon change.
Worn & Wound
Urwerk Returns To Their Roots With New 102 Reloaded
Late last year, Urwerk teamed up with artist Cooper Jacoby to create a special one-off version of their original 102 watch from 1997. We brought you live coverage of that watch prior to its auctioning, and wondered if we might see this form return in a fully fledged redesign of the 102, given the full redesign of the case. Today, we receive an answer to that question in the form of this UR102 Reloaded set of watches. The latest 102 gets the same case we saw featured in the one-off that fetched over $400,000 at auction, but misses out on that trick color-changing element that made that one so special. A fair trade off in my book, as I’m just happy to see this case make it into a production reference. The original 102 is an important part of Urwerk history, serving as their first platform and an ultimate proof of concept that’s since evolved in a variety of ways. There are no hands at work here, heck there’s barely even a dial, just a long wandering hour aperture tracing the time across a display arc at the top of the case. It’s simple, elegant, and looks just as fresh today as it did 25 years ago (though the inspiration for this design is much, much older). Indeed, the 102 represents many firsts for the brand, and these are represented within the rotating element of the dial itself, written above the broader celestial themed components. It provides a personal touch to the theme of the watch, without compromising the core themes at work. The disc elements themselves ...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit
We here at Worn & Wound are extremely excited to be attending, once again, Watches & Wonders in Geneva. It’s perhaps the biggest watch event of the year and a first for Kat Shoulders, our media production manager. Flying internationally can be a challenging and stressful time, but Kat has a pretty darn good kit to get her through a long day of flying. From the perfect bag, a useful watch, and a few interesting gadgets, she takes us through what she’ll be carrying on her flight! This episode is made possible by our friends at Camera West. They have graciously lent Kat the new Panasonic LUMIX S5II to take with her on the trip. Camera West carries many different camera options from Leica, Fujifilm, Sony, and more, but they actually recommended the S5 II for her Watches And Wonders adventure over the other options on the market with the biggest feature being the L-mount alliance making it compatible with Sigma, Leica, and other Panasonic lenses. Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! Learn more about Camera West and the Panasonic LUMIX S5II. The post Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph
The Longines Spirit collection welcomes a new member today with the release of a new Flyback Chronograph, bringing a (perhaps surprising) element of Longines heritage into the mix along the way. Longines may not be the first name that comes to mind when hearing the word ‘flyback’ but it probably should be, and this latest Spirit watch will serve as a reminder to the brand’s extensive history with the complication, which dates back to the 1920’s. Visually, the new Spirit Flyback Chronograph presents a cleaner execution than the existing chronograph, placing emphasis on the uniqueness of this complication, however the visual identity of the Spirit collection is clear and present here. Let’s take a quick step back, and get a better understanding of Longines’ place in history when it comes to the flyback complication. Longines had a lovely chronograph movement called the 13.33Z first introduced in 1913, which, later in life, likely served as a testbed for the flyback mechanism that would flourish in the more well-known 13Z. As far as we know, Longines placed the first flyback mechanism within the 13.33Z in 1929, and it wouldn’t be until June 12th of 1935 that the brand filed for Swiss patent on the mechanism, which would go on to be granted in March of 1936 (Brevet 183262). There’s much more to read on the topic, which has been covered beautifully by SJX and collector Dr. Christian Müller right here. Not that Longines needed an excuse to release their own fl...
Deployant
New: MB&F; LM Perpetual now in Stainless Steel with salmon dial plate
MB&F; extends their LM Perpetual collection with a new model for the first time in Stainless Steel and a salmon coloured dial plate.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders
Last month, Breitling held a very special event for a handful of watch enthusiasts, and Watch Advice was there to get a great hands on experience with the new Top Time line up, and see how this collection with the new B01 movements and new Thunderbird model felt in person, and most importantly, how they sat on the wrist! With less than a week to go until the watch world descends on Geneva, Breitling have dropped a revised line up of their Top Time collection, with new beefed up specs and adding a new model to the muscle car line up – the Ford Thunderbird, to sit alongside the Mustang, Cobra and Corvette. Watch Advice, along with with a handful of passionate collectors had the pleasure of getting under the hood of the new models (yes there will be many car references in this article, so brace yourself!), and testing them out in person. The Breitling Top Time Collection – Left to Right: Ford Thunderbird, Chevrolet Corvette, Ford Mustang & Shelby Cobra “The Top Time represented a break from traditional watch design for a generation that was breaking with convention in every way… We are going after that sense of freedom and fun with the 1960s-inspired Top Time Classic Cars collection”Georges Kern – Breitling ceo The Top Time collection was released in 2021 with three models – the Mustang, Corvette and Cobra. This year, Breitling have introduced the Ford Thunderbird to the collection, and alongside this, dropped a new engine into them with the new in house calibre...
Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking – Reprise
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum continues the clever Spin Time Air concept while bringing two noticeable things to the table that weren’t there before: a slightly more toned-down Tambour case and micro-electronically lit luminous cubes. It shines in a very clever way as Elizabeth Doerr reports.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2023 Exhibition in Geneva
As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W;) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel. Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow. “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays. Patek Philippe Salons Rue du Rhône 41 1204 Genève Switzerland Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.
Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm is now available in three new variants The ML143 Sellita-based movement ticks inside Great everyday piece Watch enthusiasts, including myself, often search for watches with specific expectations. For example, I often find myself looking at dive watches with unnecessary amounts of water resistance. And there is nothing wrong … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm presents subtle improvements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors
Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...
Worn & Wound
Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique
One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breitling's Top Time Classic Cars Collection Goes In-House And Adds A Thunderbird
B01s under the hood and a new model inspired by a classic Ford.
Time+Tide
Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed
I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Tudor New Launches Available on First Day of W&W; in Geneva
In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva. Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques. While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online. While W&W; remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W; or its future equivalent. Pop-up details Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month. Place de Longemalle 15 120...
Hodinkee
How I'd Spend $100K: First, I’d Buy That Patrimony I’m Obsessed With – Then A Serpenti, A Zenith, And A Controversial Hublot
Our deputy editor contemplates the fine watches (and hamburgers) that would make her dreams come true.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin's New Overseas Panda Chronograph
Get to know the great-wearing watch that inspired me to look up a panda fact or two.
Worn & Wound
Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch
A recurring theme that we’re seeing in the watch enthusiast space this year is a heightened interest in interesting quartz watches. It comes up all the time on our podcast, on Instagram, and certainly in the YouTube comments for our recent coverage of a quartz release from TAG Heuer. Clearly, there’s an appetite for this stuff, but it seems like the big Swiss brands are still a step behind their Japanese counterparts in terms of delivering watches that are high on value while pushing the envelope in terms of quartz tech. Exhibit A: Citizen, and their new Eco-Drive 365 line, which gives us a fairly substantial movement upgrade in a package that doesn’t look quite like anything else on the market. The big news here is the introduction of the all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement. As the name implies, these light powered movements have a running time of an entire year on a full charge. That’s an impressive accomplishment, just about doubling the running time of a standard Eco-Drive movement, which already made for the ideal watch to completely forget about in a sock drawer for months at a time. The new caliber is able to maximize power consumption for an even longer running time than previous movements while keeping the same 27mm diameter as its predecessor. The new E365 calibers are accurate to within 15 seconds per month. For the first batch of E365 releases (which unfortunately won’t be available until fall of this year) Citizen is looking back to the e...
Time+Tide
Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2
Editor’s note: As soon as Invicta is mentioned in the presence of watch enthusiasts, jests and jeers are inevitable. The brand has long strayed from its centuries-old heritage and has since evolved into a mall and QVC/TV-peddled watch brand largely known for affordable homage-driven designs. But Kieran, a recent addition to the Time+Tide team, has done something … ContinuedThe post Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Warning, Watchporn Inside: Video Of X-Rated Timepieces By Blancpain – Reprise
Classic on the front, party in the back: that about sums up the traditional erotic timepiece. And one of the modern masters of the erotic watch is Blancpain. In this excellent video by The Watches TV, you’ll discover what “hot horologerie” is all about!
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: A Rare, Complicated Patek Calatrava You Might Not Have Known About Is Coming Up For Auction
Phillips just announced it's auctioning 'The Last Emperor's' 1-of-8 Calatrava. Here's what we know about early, complicated Calatravas.
Deployant
New and reviewed: Horizon Watches Pilgrim
We spent a few weeks with the new Pilgrim, from Horizon Watches. Here are our thoughts and review on the latest addition from this microbrand.
Quill & Pad
Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise
While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!