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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
Best of 2022: Value Propositions SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Value Propositions

We’ve gone through the year’s best watches from independent watchmakers and establishment brands, as well as the most notable complications. Nearly all of the watches on those lists, however, are pricey. So now we round up the best affordable watches of the year, namely those under US$5,000. Put another way, these are the best value proposition of 2022, both in nominal and relative terms. As has become the norm, Tudor is shoo-in when it comes to value propositions. A streamlined version of its deep-sea dive watch, the Pelagos 39 is compact, lightweight, and minimalist. The case is 39 mm and all titanium, while the dial does away with the date but includes a line of red text in a nod to vintaged dive watches.  While much about the watch has been simplified, the details of the Pelagos 39 are fancier than usual. Both the dial and bezel insert are radially brushed – a matte metallic finish for the dial and brushed ceramic for the bezel – giving the Pelagos 39 a more reflective finish than its peers. When it comes to dress watches, the Longines Master Collection “190th Anniversary” is amongst the best, particularly at its US$2,000-ish price. It features a dial that appears to be highly elaborate with Breguet hour numerals that appear to be hand engraved. Naturally the dial is made by machine, but it is done convincingly enough that has a strikingly appealing aesthetic. Thanks to the dial, the watch certainly punches above its price segment. And like many Longin...

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Best of 2022: Compelling Complications SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications

Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...

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F.P. Journe Vagabondage I Gold: Farewell To A Path Rarely Traveled Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Vagabondage I Gold Farewell Dec 25, 2022

F.P. Journe Vagabondage I Gold: Farewell To A Path Rarely Traveled

When your F.P Journe isn’t a typical F.P. Journe, but it is a 100 percent real F.P. Journe through and through, it must be a Vagabondage. The Vagabondage I Gold of 2022 is Journe's final foray into the alternate reality of the Vagabondage lifestyle and Joshua Munchow takes a look back at how and why we arrived at this final Vagabondage edition in 2022.

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Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part one (#1-14) Time+Tide
Dec 24, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part one (#1-14)

One Sunday morning, I was sitting on the couch having a New York Times mini-crossword race with my brother. It was a pretty close battle, luck of the prompts really, where he got caught up on one of the clues allowing me to come from behind and complete it before him. But in the silent … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part one (#1-14) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Are Bulova Watches Good Buys? Here are 10 Watches that will Convince Y Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Dec 23, 2022

Are Bulova Watches Good Buys? Here are 10 Watches that will Convince Y

Founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova in 1875, originally with both its corporate headquarters and its manufacturing based in New York City, Bulova Watch Company is one of the most important historical watch brands in the United States. Many an American watch enthusiast has a story about the Bulova watch they inherited from a parent or grandparent, or about how their first watch was a Bulova before building up the financial wherewithal to delve into pricier Swiss luxury brands. Many of these enthusiasts may well be unaware of the many milestones that Bulova has contributed throughout its history - not just to American watchmaking to watchmaking in general - and how those milestones live on today in some of the brand’s most notable timepieces. Here we spotlight 10 important Bulova watches available now and the stories behind them; most are available in our online shop, many below MSRP. A Watch That Helped Win Wars: Bulova Hack Watch During World War II, Bulova took its patriotic duties as one of the few American-based watch companies quite seriously: many of its male employees joined the armed forces while female employees took over much of the watchmaking work at the factory. Bulova also devoted 25 percent of its advertising to the promotion of war bonds and stamps, a service for which it was awarded a distinguished service certificate by the U.S. government. Most notably, in the early 1940s, the company contracted with the United States government to produce i...

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Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref Dec 23, 2022

Best of 2022: Establishment Favourites

Having covered the year’s best from independent watchmaking, we now turn to the big names (but leaving out the value buys below US$5,000 that we cover in a subsequent story). The notable launches from establishment marques were predominantly evolutionary, either new-and-improved versions of existing models or vintage remakes. Nothing was a landmark achievement – except for the monumental Rolex Deepsea Challenge that is less of a watch than a statement of technical prowess. While not strikingly novel, many of the year’s best watches are executed very, very well. One of the best is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Practically unchanged from the 1972 original in terms of design, it doesn’t do anything new in terms of design. The the new “Jumbo” nonetheless is a superior watch, mainly thanks to a brand-new movement as well as subtle improvements to the case. As we detailed in our in-depth review, the “Jumbo” retains the look of the original, right down to the colour of the dial, which is reproduced with PVD treatment. But it is the new cal. 7121 that’s the star. Amongst the things, it boasts an efficient, bi-directional winding system, as well as a higher beat rate for the balance wheel, resulting in more stable timekeeping. But perhaps most important is the addition of a quick-set date. While getting this watch at the retail price is a Sisyphean task, it is one of the year’s top watches simply because it makes a classic much better....

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Best of 2022: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 22, 2022

Best of 2022: Independent Watchmaking

Twenty twenty-two will undoubtedly be the best year on record for the luxury-watch industry. Swiss watch exports recorded their highest ever monthly value in November 2022 and the total for the year will top CHF24 billion, another all-time record. Despite the stellar year – or perhaps because of it – the “novelties” for 2022 are fairly muted. Lots of nice watches made their debut during the year, but the truly outstanding and significant launches were sparse. That could be for a few reasons, including supply chain disruptions due to the pandemic or that brands simply didn’t need to try too hard since sales were easy. During Watches & Wonders, a chief executive of a high-end independent brand conceded that it was better to conserve ammunition for the inevitable slowdown. Watches & Wonders 2022, where sales were easy to come by. Image – Watches & Wonders Even if the genuinely notable were few, the volume of new releases was consistently high throughout the year. And it wasn’t just new models from existing brands, but also new faces, especially in the independent watchmaking space. There was plenty to keep watch aficionados occupied throughout the year.  Still, the year’s top watches are pretty obvious. The very best will be remembered a decade from now as a significant or important watch. Other picks simply have soul and authenticity. With that in mind, our team compiled the year’s best in each of the major categories, ranging from establishment favourit...

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Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31 Time+Tide
Nivada Grenchen Dec 21, 2022

Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31

Coming up on three years ago, Australia had one of the most lethal summers for wildfires – we call them bushfires down here – on record. It was, quite literally, a nightmare. During the days, the skies would darken to a point where cars would use headlights at midday. But it wasn’t thunderstorm, or night-time … ContinuedThe post Buy our ‘Koallaboration’ with Nivada Grenchen and seconde/seconde/ and save koalas until December 31 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 17, 2022

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics Or Functionality? And How To Decide – Reprise

Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.

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Vintage video game watches offer real wrist game Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2022

Vintage video game watches offer real wrist game

Members of Generation X can truly say they were there for some seismic cultural shifts. Although some relics should definitely remain encased in the nostalgic amber of the past, not everything that burst forth from the New Wave Age was as disgusting as New Coke, or as cringe-inducing as parachute pants. Despite what boomers might … ContinuedThe post Vintage video game watches offer real wrist game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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