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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause Time+Tide
Zenith Nov 1, 2022

Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause

The prices of luxury watches make collecting an expensive hobby. But the cost of these objects also have potential to help charitable causes as a result. Whenever I talk to high-end collectors – men like Kevin O’Leary from Shark Tank, for example – what they really want are things that are one of a kind. … ContinuedThe post Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Recently Oct 31, 2022

Interview: Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin

Recently in Singapore for The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition dedicated to Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking over the decades, Christian Selmoni has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the brand. Now the brand’s Style & Heritage Director, Mr Selmoni joined Vacheron Constantin (VC) in January 1992. His tenure of almost 31 years has given him an innate sense of the brand and its philosophy as well as a wide-ranging perspective on its timepieces over the years. We had a chat with Mr Selmoni to hear more about the brand’s most interesting creations, ranging from the 22”’ observatory-certified tourbillon movements of the 1920s to the modern-day Celestia grand complication. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: The Singapore exhibition has a good selection of the complicated, historical, and artisanal. What’s your favourite out of all that? Christian Selmoni (CS): It’s a tricky question, but one that immediately comes to my mind – the 22”’ tourbillon because I love this this calibre. VC made the movement in the 1920s; around 20 movements were sent for observatory contests. Once the contests were over, the movements were put in a tray somewhere. Then at the beginning of the 1990s, we made six or seven pocket watches with 22”’ tourbillon movements that had been totally refurbished and decorated. They were made for John Asprey in London. All of the [Asprey pocket watches] were unique, either in material or decoration, and some were set with ge...

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 30, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Becomes More Accessible

In a long anticipated move, the organisers of Watches & Wonders – now the world’s most important luxury-watch fair – have just revealed the 2023 exhibition will be open to the public on its final two days. The event takes place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023, so the public days will be on the first two days of April. Simultaneously, the organisers also debuted the Watches & Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF). According to the announcement, the decision to create the foundation was taken by Rolex, Richemont, and Patek Philippe. Both the public days and WWGF are evidence that the Geneva giants, Rolex and Patek Philippe, now have a lead role in the city’s major watch fair. Historically that position was occupied by Richemont, the luxury group that owns a stable of brands ranging from Cartier to IWC. New titles for Messrs Dufour and Perrin The WWGF will “organise… watch and jewellery exhibitions, in Geneva and beyond… and define the major strategic areas of this ambitious project.” Most notable is the fact the the WWGF will be chaired by Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, while its deputy chairman is Emmanuel Perrin, head of Richemont’s watch division. Though unstated, it is implied that the WWGF succeed the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), which was long the organiser of SIHH and also of this year’s W&W;. Though technically independent, the FHH was regarded by the industry as being dominated by Richemont. Anyone can now walk the ha...

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation Time+Tide
Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec Oct 30, 2022

Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation

What is a field watch? What is a diver? Those two questions can be answered in so many ways, depending on who you ask. Yet, there are instances when the answers to such questions are highly defined and set in stone. Such is the case when dealing with Mil-Spec watches. Mil- Spec, short for military … ContinuedThe post Attention! Bausele goes US Army Mil-Spec with their latest creation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 Deployant
Oct 29, 2022

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67

The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross s unique BR 01 Oct 29, 2022

Fly-By Death: 5 Skull-Themed BR 01 Timepieces By Bell & Ross – Reprise

Bell & Ross’s unique BR 01 Instrument stole the spotlight at its launch in 2005 thanks to its unusual circle-in-a-square case, becoming an instant hit. The BR 01 was then used as a jumping-off point for a variety of designs, beginning in 2009 with the then-trendy skull motif – which in Elizabeth Doerr's eyes was a perfect addition. How has the skull motif evolved at Bell & Ross? Find out here!

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2022

Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022

This past week, New York City became the centre of the watch world as it hosted two major watch events. One of those, Windup Watch Fair, was hosted by our friends over at Worn & Wound. Spread across 14,000 square feet, dozens of brands displayed their creations, offering guest first looks and a direct buying … ContinuedThe post Five of Ricardo’s favourites from Windup Watch Fair NYC 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fiona Krüger Vanitas: A Skull Clock That Yawns To Indicate Becoming Tired And Needing More Energy – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 29, 2022

Fiona Krüger Vanitas: A Skull Clock That Yawns To Indicate Becoming Tired And Needing More Energy – Reprise

The skull is one of art history’s most referenced objects thanks to its powerful ability to instantly remind us that we are only flesh and bone. Fiona Krüger, specializing in skulls, partnered with L’Epée 1839 to produce Vanitas, a skull-shaped clock based on her Skull Collection with an unexpected function: it yawns as its movement tires.

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 28, 2022

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday Time+Tide
Accutron s 62nd birthday Watch Oct 28, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday

Watch collectors from far and wide gathered in New York City this week for an itinerary packed with watch-related events. You had the RedBar Global Meetup, WatchTime NY, and Worn & Wound Windup fairs all jam-packed into the space of seven days – giving watch lovers in the area lots to do. It may have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 27, 2022

Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition

When an anniversary comes along for a brand, it is almost obligatory for them to release a special-edition watch – which is great news for us. The Speake-Marin Ripples watch made waves upon its debut as the brand’s first entry into the steel-sports category. In celebration of their 20th anniversary, we now have 50 pieces … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin celebrates their 20th anniversary with a gold dial Ripples Anniversary Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 Time+Tide
Oct 27, 2022

Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022

There is a lot of ground to cover, so I will try to be brief. Last week I attended WatchTime NY 2022, a horological candy shop for those who love all things watches. The participating brands brought some of their latest and greatest watches to get hands-on with, and there were too many I loved … ContinuedThe post Five of Zach’s favourites from WatchTime NY 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Oct 27, 2022

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore

An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker. The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen. The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial Dive watches in bronze from Zelos A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos. The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition. The Vario Popeye jumping hour The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is fre...

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Oct 26, 2022

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…)

Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.