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Time+Tide
Blancpain celebrates ocean photographers, and Time+Tide and Leica team up for an event on watches (and cameras, of course).The post A week of celebrating photography: Time+Tide x Leica & Blancpain x Ocean Photographer of the Year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Time and space are deeply intertwined, so it’s no surprise that images of the cosmos continue to inspire watchmakers. Since introducing its Antarctique collection of sports watches with integrated bracelets in 2020, Czapek has explored celestial themes with creations like the Antarctique Orion Nebula and the Antarctique Celestial-no longer in the brand’s current lineup. Other […]
Monochrome
It might come as a surprise to learn that Favre Leuba is the world’s second-oldest watch company. Founded in 1737 by Abraham Favre in Le Locle, the brand reached a high point in the mid-1960s with its rugged purpose-designed tool watches. Now in the hands of industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, his “revival and renaissance” strategy […]
Monochrome
TAG Heuer and Senna Brand team up to celebrate Brazilian racing driver Ayrton Senna with a limited edition chronograph and tourbillon. As the watch brand most closely associated with motorsports, TAG Heuer’s partnership with Senna began in 1988 and continued until his tragic death in 1994 at the San Marino Grand Prix. On the 30th […]
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross is expanding on their enthusiast focused BR-X5 with a boutique edition iridescent dial variant, housing their manufacture calibre BR-CAL.323. For those that aren’t already familiar with the BR-X5 launched in 2022, this is a relatively higher tier regular production watch compared to the rest of the Bell & Ross lineup – featuring a semi-skeletonized weight minimizing case that has been hollowed out on the sides, from the lugs and down through the crown guards. While the main features and aesthetic design of the watch have remained relatively untouched from the previous variants, the iridescent dial is the star of the show on this new reference, creating playful hue transitions from blue to green, with hints of purple. The color shifting is very similar to that seen on the shell of a beetle, or on mother of pearl dials, but in this instance the light effect isn’t naturally created, rather it’s a chemical creation derived from multiple thin layers of PVD coating. Not only does the dial have a one of a kind manufacturing process, but the effect has been accentuated by overlaying it with a sunray effect. The overall vibe of what used to be a more serious, tool-like watch, is now toned down a touch to bring in some casual playfulness. The BR-CAL.323 automatic movement beats at 28,800 VPH, and is holding a generous 70 hours of power reserve which makes the watch a great daily wear contender. The movement has also been designed to display a rather large pow...
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SJX Watches
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
Time+Tide
Seiko returns to the GPS-enabled Astron line with a slimmer movement and a more approachable overall design with three new models.The post Seiko’s newest Astron GPS Solar 3X62s are the most conventional-looking, easy-to-operate GPS Astrons yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Panerai has announced a quartet of watches made in partnership with the U.S. NAVY SEALS, a capsule collection meant to highlight the brand’s mission of crafting reliable, purpose driven watches. All of the models share an aesthetic link through the use of camo patterns and dial effects and are based on collector favorite references from the Submersible collection. In a catalog filled with burly, oversized watches, the Submersible line is perhaps the most outwardly sporty, reflecting a more contemporary approach to divers, chronographs, and GMTs than you might find in the brand’s more heritage focused lines. The first model to receive the Navy Seals treatment is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro NAVY SEALS PAM01518. As the name suggests, this one is based on their stainless steel 44mm Submersible. Instead of their regular lume application, this one features sand-colored SuperLuminova on the hands, markers, and lume pip on the bezel. It is equipped with the Panerai P.900 caliber in-house automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 beats per hour and boasts a substantial 3-day power reserve. “NAVY SEALS” is displayed on the dégradé black to anthracite dial at 6 o’clock. When the watch is flipped over, a beautifully engraved commemoration of the NAVY’s special forces team is revealed. It is rated for water resistance up to 300 meters. The second model is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT NAVY SEALS Carbotech PAM01513. Similar to the previous model, this one is b...
Monochrome
Czapek orchestrated its launch through an equity crowdfunding campaign funded mainly by watch aficionados. As a brand with its ear to the ground, Czapek listens closely to its friends and shareholders and, in 2020, responded to their request for a luxury sports watch. Incarnated by the Antarctique, Czapek’s first luxury sports watch was also powered […]
Monochrome
The Gumball 3000 is no ordinary car rally. Known for its high-octane blend of luxury, adventure and extravagance, the Gumball has captivated automotive enthusiasts since 1999. This iconic road rally, featuring supercars and celebrities, is an annual celebration of breaking boundaries and living life in the fast lane over a 3,000-mile journey. To commemorate this […]
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SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit. Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph. Initial thoughts The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities. This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph). Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the re...
Deployant
Introducing the OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M America's Cup, the brand's latest to commemorate its maritime heritage. This timepiece celebrates OMEGA's role as the Official Timekeeper of the 37th America's Cup with a design that's as functional as it is aesthetic, featuring a regatta countdown bezel and the iconic America's Cup trophy silhouette on the seconds hand.
Worn & Wound
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days next week, Urwerk has unveiled what will surely be in the running for “Watch of the Year” talk when 2024 comes to a close. The EMC SR-71 is a new variation of one of the independent brand’s most discussed and honored timepieces. The original EMC, introduced ten years ago, is a former winner of the GPHG prizes in both the “Mechanical Exception” and “Innovation” categories. Even within the strange world of Urwerk, the EMC is an oddity, so it’s always exciting to see them return to this platform with a new variant. EMC stands for Electronic Mechanical Control, a term that seems to contradict itself but actually does a fantastic job of describing exactly what this watch does. What you need to know about how this watch operates is that the traditional time telling functions (hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve) all operate mechanically. But integrated into the movement is an optical sensor linked to the balance that, on demand, can record the rate at which it is oscillating. Using light and an integrated circuit, the movement will tell you the delta between the timing rate of the mechanical movement and a reference oscillator (a 16,000,000 Hz mega-quartz oscillator in this case). Pressing a button on the side of the case activates a meter at roughly 10:00, telling you how fast or slow your watch is running. What’s more, the watch is equipped with a timing adjustment screw on the caseback that can be accessed by the owner wit...
Monochrome
In the past, our friends at Hodinkee have collaborated with TAG Heuer to create exciting timepieces like the Carrera Skipper and Carrera Dato. This year, they present a fresh take on the iconic Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, which Heuer produced for the American retailer from the 1950s until the mid-1970s. We gladly present the new […]
Worn & Wound
Some people, if you were to ask them, would say that the most exhilarating moment in sports is the bottom of the ninth with two outs and the winning run at the plate. Others would say it’s penalty kicks at the World Cup, the final two minutes of a basketball game, or a last-minute Hail Mary. Ask me the same question, and you’ll get a different answer. For my money, the most exciting moment in sports comes at the end of a tennis match. Unlike soccer, football, or basketball, tennis isn’t a sport where you can run out the clock. To win, you have to earn the last point and, until that happens, a comeback is never out of the question. Despite matches sometimes lasting for hours, time isn’t explicitly a factor in tennis, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t matter, and there is no stronger evidence for that than the strong connection between some of the world’s leading watch brands and the sport of tennis. This past weekend, I got to experience that connection firsthand with a visit to the Mubadala Citi DC Open, where Rado was serving as the tournament’s official timekeeper. With Rado’s clocks tracking the passing time both on and off the court, there was no better host to welcome us to Rock Creek Park, or with whom to celebrate one of my favorite sports in one of my favorite cities. Though Rado’s relationship with tennis extends back much further (well over thirty years), this is only their second year partnering with the Mubadala Citi DC Open. But just because...
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SJX Watches
A timepiece that pays tribute to the medals of the Olympic Games, the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a riff on the vintage-inspired CK 859. It retains the same dimensions and design, but manages to incorporate all three medal materials – gold, silver, and bronze. The case is a bronze-gold alloy, while the dial is sterling silver with Clous de Paris guilloche. Initial thoughts Among the countless Olympic-themed watches – Omega launched its first 2024 Olympics watch over a year ago – the Bronze Gold Edition stands out for its unique use of materials. It’s a thoughtfully designed watch that celebrates Omega’s status as the timekeeper of Paris 2024. With no Olympics branding or emblems on the front, it’s not obviously an Olympics watch, but smartly captures the Olympic ideal by utilising the three alloys in the case and dial. At the same time, the Bronze Gold Edition is more visually interesting than the CK 859 that had a simple grained dial that was arguably too plain for the relatively wide dial. Priced at US$12,000, the Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a good value proposition. Though not novel, the vintage-inspired design is appealing and made more interesting with the guilloche silver dial. And as Olympics editions go, this one is subtle in terms of design yet entirely apt in terms of concept. A special gold alloy The model gets its name from Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold, an alloy launched in 2022 with the Seamaster 300 that is actually low-cara...
Time+Tide
Breguet and Voutilainen celebrate Tourbillon Day; Zenith and Omega celebrate Paris; and Hublot and Ressence go monochromatic.The post New releases from Hublot, Voutilainen, H. Moser & Cie and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Alain Silberstein and Louis Erard are at it again! One of the brand’s most veteran collaborators, Alain Silberstein has collaborated with Louis Erard since 2019, dialling up the colour of watches with his original design language. Following the Tourbillon Regulator, Silberstein’s latest Smile Day collaboration continues in the wake of earlier three-hand with day and […]
SJX Watches
Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...
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Time+Tide
Bulgari celebrates in style, with gems upon gems upon gems, crafting some watches that are almost jewellery, and others that definitely are.The post Bulgari’s Aeterna collection celebrates 140 years of Roman and Greek heritage with a gem-setting masterclass appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Moser’s Streamliner collection, a luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet, made a resounding entry in 2020 with a Flyback Chronograph. Unlike many luxury sports watches on the market, which vie for attention with their formulaic solutions, Moser’s design was fresh, verging on sensual thanks to its sleek, aerodynamic personality. A few months later, Moser unveiled […]
Monochrome
As we approached the end of 2023, the landscape for those seeking an obtainable motorsport-inspired chronograph underwent a shift, offering a slightly broader array of options. This was spurred by the notable introduction of an extension to IWC‘s Pilot’s Watch series: the Performance Chronograph 41. Available in titanium to commemorate the brand’s enduring partnership with […]
Time+Tide
The maker of the legendary Navitimer celebrates its 140th, and CEO Georges Kern takes us through the years.The post Breitling CEO Georges Kern talks us through the brand’s 140th anniversary celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With its sponsorship of Renault’s Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. has created a limited edition for the occasion, the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition. This combines the brand’s unusual cylindrical tourbillon with its sporty Streamliner presented for the first on a strap instead of a bracelet. Initial thoughts In the wake of its deal with the Alpine Motorsports, Renault’s sports car division, Moser’s latest limited edition is hardly a surprise. The concept of an open-worked tourbillon in a modern, sporty case is not a new one, but this is technically novel thanks to the tall cylindrical hairspring inside the tourbillon carriage, made possible thanks to Moser’s sister company that produces hairsprings. Fortunately this is not a typical F1 watch dressed in team colours and sporting a logo. The entire face is devoid of branding and Alpine’s trademark blue instead forms the transparent sub-dial at 12 that contrasts with the anthracite bridges below. The removal of the bracelet, however, also removes some of the character of the Streamliner. This looks less distinctive than the typical Streamliner on a bracelet. That is not a permanent problem since a bracelet can be installed, and since the case is steel, at presumably moderate cost. The Alpine edition retails for CHF89,000, a CHF10,000 increase over the recent Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton that has a bracelet but no cylindrical hairspring. All things consider, the premium is...
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