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The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito Hodinkee
Formex CEO Sep 30, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. Born in the early 2000s, it featured a proprietary case suspension system and designs that reflected the origin of its name, 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). However, the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt the brand a near-fatal blow, and it entered a period of relative dormancy. Then, in 2016, a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps, and cases, as well as dials through its subsidiary Cadranor, took over Formex.  Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the takeover and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since, and a decade later, Formex is leveraging Dexel's manufacturing savoir-faire and R&D; to produce innovative, approachable-priced Swiss-made watches. The brand's evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated-bracelet titanium sport watch with an ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches.  Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself by offe...

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin s 30th Anniversary Overseas Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's 30th Anniversary Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Limited Edition

What We Know The hottest Vacheron Constantin collection is celebrating its thirtieth anniversary this year, and the brand is paying tribute with a new version of one of my personal favorite watches from the brand. Sure, earlier this year we got the return of the 2500V, which is celebration enough, but the new limited-edition azure blue Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a limited edition that honors the first generation of the collection. Below is a picture of the current third generation and the 1996 first generation, itself a successor of sorts to the 222 in 1977 and the 1975 Chronomètre Royal before it. Yes, Vacheron has done a blue version of this watch before—and has released a few other colors recently, including a bold red—but now the same 41.5mm by 8.1mm white gold case gets a more muted, less saturated azure blue soleil and lacquer treatment, with white and light blue printed text and applied indices with Super-LumiNova. The movement is the same Caliber 1120 QP/1 automatic movement that is only 4.05 mm thick. Yes, other brands are slowly introducing perpetual calendars with a crown-adjustment system, but while this still uses caseband pushers, the benefit is a watch that measures 1.5mm thinner than the similarly wide Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The watch runs at a slightly slower 2.75 Hz and has only 40 hours of power reserve, but again, at the thin profile you get, the wearability should more than make up for any small downsides. Another huge benefit i...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel Hodinkee
Czapek & Cie CEO Sep 23, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Czapek & Cie. CEO And Co-Founder Xavier de Roquemaurel

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with the business leader who has headed the reborn Czapek & Cie. brand for more than a decade now. Xavier de Roquemaurel didn't come from the watch industry when he co-founded Czapek with fellow entrepreneur Harry Guhl, with help from watchmaker Sébastien Follonier, in 2015.  He's had to learn the industry on the job, and while Czapek burst on the scene by winning the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Public Prize in its debut year in 2016, the company and de Roquemaurel have faced plenty of challenges along the way. From the novel financing and shareholder model they created to fund the startup, to reckoning with a massive surge of back orders for their popular Antarctique integrated bracelet sports watch model during the boom times of the post-pandemic era, as well as serious health and medical ordeals. Reconsidering all the tests he and the company have faced, de Roquemaurel says he now believes that "adversity gets the best out of you." Today, Czapek has just opened a new boutique on the historic Quai des Bergues in Geneva on the same banks of the Rhône River where François Czapek himself had his first atelier in the 1800s. In a wide-ranging interview, the Czapek CEO traces both the path of the reborn brand and how it has found inspiration in the legacy of the watchmaker who opened what is believed to be the first watch boutique on Place de Vendôme in Paris while producing timepieces for Napoleon III and t...

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi "Chan3ad" (Kingfish) Limited Edition Hodinkee
Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi Chan3ad Sep 17, 2026

Introducing: The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi "Chan3ad" (Kingfish) Limited Edition

What We Know Two years after Studio Underd0g released its Series03 chronograph—an upgraded monopusher with a Sellita movement—they've teamed up with the Dubai-based powerhouse Ahmed Seddiqi for a new version with a twist. The new Chan3ad (Arabic for "Kingfish") comes on the heels of Studio Underd0g's first appearance at Dubai Watch Week last year. The dial features two contrasting layers, inspired by the UAE's most prized gamefish, the kingfish. The fish has a blue-grey color with distinctive scales, represented by the top dial, which is also very textured. The lower layer is a sunburst brushed pink, representing the meat underneath, while the tip of the chronograph hand and 30-minute counter hand are yellow, like the lemon you'd squeeze over the top after you cook it. A fish-themed watch is in keeping with the existing Series03 "Salmon" but the tones are slightly different. All the numerals are in Eastern Arabic script. Cased in stainless steel, the watch measures 38.5mm by 13.6mm (almost 2mm of which is the domed sapphire crystal), with a 20mm lug width and 44.5mm lug-to-lug. As noted on the dial (a curious quirk of Studio Underd0g), the watch uses the manually wound Sellita SW510 M movement, a "Custom Special" version running at 4Hz and regulated to +/- 5 seconds per day. The movement has a 63-hour power reserve and a hacking system. The Studio Underd0g x Ahmed Seddiqi Chan3ad is delivered with two straps: one is a 20-to-16mm tapered stainless steel Milanese mesh, a...

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Glashütte Original 70s Collection Sep 16, 2026

Introducing - The new Glashütte Original 70s Collection, a Reworked Take on the Integrated Sports Watch

While Glashütte Original‘s Seventies collection has become associated with its bold, square-shaped chronographs, the German manufacture also once offered Seventies Panaroma Date models without the chronograph function. Revisiting the decade with a substantially reworked watch, the brand returns to that time-and-date simplicity and presents the new 70s collection of integrated sports watches, alongside the existing […]

The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS SJX Watches
Seiko s Crowd Favourite 62MAS Sep 8, 2026

The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS

Last year Seiko let fans vote on which of four vibrant dial colours would adorn an upcoming diver, and the people made the right choice, picking this vibrant Daytime Blue for the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fan-Selected HBC011. While a bit late to hit the beach, the latest 62MAS homage maintains all that was already good about Seiko divers, namely looks and tenacity, with key upgrades to the bracelet, for a reasonable price. Initial Thoughts Last year marked 6o years of Seiko diver’s watches, which can be traced back to the original 62MAS (refs. 6217-8000 and -8001) launched in 1965. Seiko let the many fans of its diver’s watches decide how to celebrate, giving collectors a choice of four colourways: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. The online poll was open for the entire month of July, which was long enough for me “to get around to later” but short enough that it had already closed by the time I remembered to vote. Unsurprisingly, the trendiest colour, and the one I would have voted for, Daytime Blue, won. From left to right: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. Seiko has disclosed no plans to bring the other three colourways to market at this time. The vibrant blue and stamped dial make the HBC011 stand out from the pack of 62MAS-inspired models, though it changes the character of the watch so entirely that this bubbly beach watch doesn’t feel like a 62MAS at all. Which is a good thing, as the mo...

Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité Hodinkee
Czapek s New Quai des Sep 1, 2026

Introducing: Czapek's New Quai des Bergues And Place Vendôme Complicité

What We Know Only seven years ago, Czapek, a brand over 180 years old, opened its first modern boutique in Geneva, right next to the brand's original workshop from 1839. Soon after, it opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris. Its first collection, called "Quai des Bergues," celebrated the first boutique; another collection celebrated that boutique in France. Now, the brand has reopened its Geneva boutique with a new look and is celebrating with a new watch from each collection. The newest Quai des Bergues "Midnight in Geneva" uses the brand's proprietary SXH1 hand-wound movement, cased in a mid-sized 40.5mm by 11.9mm stainless steel case with sandblasted, hollowed-out lugs. The watch is an impressive bit of watchmaking in a really elegant form. The watch has a power reserve indicator, weekday indicator, and subsidiary seconds, but the power reserve is a massive 7 days. The elegance comes in part from a beautiful dark blue aventurine dial with silver powder-coated steel Fleur-de-Lys hands, printed elongated Roman numerals, and a chemin de fer outer track. The watch, with a 50-meter water resistance, is limited to 18 pieces and retails for $28,600. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue is a new treatment for the brand's open-worked double-escapement watch created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer. While the previous watch was technically impressive but visually reserved, the Place Vendôme Complicité puts complexity at the forefront. The watch fe...

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Adventures Aug 28, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom

As part of the brand’s “One of Not Many Crafts” programme, Vacheron Constantin is experimenting with a series of concept watches decorated with unexpected artisanal crafts, Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. Some of the decorative method have never before used by Vacheron Constantin, or even watchmaking at large. The series is made up of six creative watches – each a unique creation – that run the gamut of rare crafts, some that are traditional in watchmaking, like gold embroidery, but others that are surprising, like origami. Each watch has a whimsical name stemming from the subject and method: Feathersnake, Glassoctopus, Oraygami, Tigerbroidery, Papercroc, and Woodenwings. From left: Woodenwings, Feathersnake, and Tigerbroidery Initial thoughts These are one-off concept watches, so both availability and price are moot points. But they are impressive, both in terms of technique and visuals, so I imagine Vacheron Constantin will be turning to these artisans for more watches eventually. All are striking, but a few stand out. Papercroc might well be my favourite of the lot, though Vacheron Constantin missed the opportunity to make a paper tiger. On the other hand, when the exotic technique on a tiny scale and quality of the result are taken together, Tigerbroidery is arguably one of Vacheron Constantin’s greatest achievements in the rare crafts field. Papercroc Others stand out for the technique. Part of Glassoctopus’s appeal is the rawness of the ...

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series Hodinkee
Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Aug 18, 2026

Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series

What We Know It may not always come as a surprise when Seiko releases a new collaboration, at least in the abstract. Still, it is always exciting to see just who Seiko has chosen to partner with, and what that partnership can turn into. This time, Seiko has paired itself with Tradman's Bonsai, a Japanese creative collective whose mission is to celebrate and continue exploring the traditional art of Japanese Bonsai through both the creation of Bonsai spaces and the pursuit of collaborations with brands in the street culture, fashion, and art worlds. The result here is the latest addition to Seiko's Presage line, Seiko's dressier alternative to other, more technical watch families likeProspex. It's also the line Seiko often uses to celebrate heritage Japanese aesthetics and artistry, making it a perfect canvas for Seiko to honor Bonsai, an art form that involves growing, cultivating, and shaping small-scale trees with rigorous dedication and precision. With this watch, Seiko has evoked Bonsai trees in several ways, most clearly with the introduction of a new dial color and texture. Inspired by the bark of aging pine trees, the new pattern gently spirals outward from the center of the dial and is paired with a deep green gradient treatment and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the inside. A 38mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and yellow-gold-tone finish houses the dial and the watch's 6R51 movement, a time-only automatic from Seiko with a 72-hour ...