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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Daan’s Picks From MB&F;, Parmigiani Fleurier, Tissot, And More Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tissot Dec 16, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Daan’s Picks From MB&F;, Parmigiani Fleurier, Tissot, And More

Finally, it’s my turn to tell you about my picks for the best watches of 2025. Several of my colleagues have already published theirs. Some chose watches that I’d also scribbled down for my list. Luckily, though, there were many great releases this year, so I’m happy to report that I can still highlight five […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Daan’s Picks From MB&F;, Parmigiani Fleurier, Tissot, And More to read the full article.

MB&F; LM101 and M.A.D.1S Giveaway for 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Casio n Ten pieces Sep 30, 2025

MB&F; LM101 and M.A.D.1S Giveaway for 20th Anniversary

It might seem like every brand is celebrating some sort of anniversary in 2025. Indeed, several of the year’s best releases have been tied to a major anniversary of some kind. Marking its own 20th anniversary, MB&F; has already released a several new models but has seen fit to do something else suitably outrageous, and is set to give away ten pieces each of the LM101 Longhorn 20th Anniversary (pictured above) and M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary, new models developed especially for the occasion. Ten pieces of each watch will be given away following a raffle in October. Registered members of the Tribe, an MB&F; owners club, will be entered for a chance to win the LM101, while those who have previously put their name in for a M.A.D. Edition will have a chance to win the M.A.D.1S. The M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary Initial thoughts The concept of deciding allocations of low-volume watches via a lottery system is one that gained acceptance during the heady days of the pandemic; MB&F; has been something of a pioneer in this regard. But ordinarily the raffle offers a chance to buy a watch, rather than a complimentary giveaway. In normal circumstances it would be difficult to rationalise a free giveaway like this, since to some extent the luxury industry is held up by the notion of exclusivity born of high prices. But MB&F; is not a typical luxury brand, and has approached the raffle in a sensible way. The limited production of both watches, just 10 pieces of each, will create a different kind...

MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO Worn & Wound
Hublot who basically invented Sep 9, 2025

MB&F; Debuts the LM101 EVO

There’s a style of watch that I’ve grown particularly fond of over the last few years, and I sometimes find it hard to articulate why. The high end, exotic independent on a rubber strap calls to me like the Sirens. There’s something about the mix of high and low that appeals to me, I think, as it does with everything else I like, from Monty Python to the films of Bong Joon-ho. I also just find a good rubber strap to be one of the most comfortable ways to wear a watch, particularly (but not exclusively) in the warm weather months. And so I’ve nursed a years-long appreciation for Hublot (who basically invented this idea) and have a watch box disproportionately tilted to watches that give me the same feeling (a pair of Arcanauts, and a Bel Canto that lives on rubber year round spring to mind). It should not be surprising, then, that MB&F;’s EVO line has become a personal favorite. The EVO series of watches take Legacy Machine pieces (conceived as MB&F;’s collection inspired by classical watchmaking) and give them a sporty treatment, replacing leather straps with rubber, and adding water resistance and screw down crowns. It makes a ton of sense to create “everyday wear” versions of these watches (if you’re spending into the six figures on these pieces, I imagine you’d want to wear them more frequently, right?) and making them more casual and sporty in appearance is such a natural idea it’s almost hard to believe these haven’t existed from the beginning. N...

MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Elements Aug 27, 2025

MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’

The accessibly priced, MB&F;-adjacent wristwatch returns as the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’, a collaboration with Yinka Ilori, a British designer known for applying bright colors to furniture, architecture, and interiors. With three kaleidoscopic colourways – Sun, Nature, and Water – the new M.A.D.1S leans into the maximalist trends of the day, which suits the M.A.D.Editions sub-brand, and MB&F; in general, like a glove. Initial Thoughts I’m reminded of the H. Moser & Cie. Elements of Time we covered just last week. Like with those, the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ is a series of thematic, limited edition collaborations sold via online raffle. And of the flavours on offer here, my favourite is again the Water variant. Collaborations like this can often feel like a one-way street, but that doesn’t feel like the case here. It’s good to know Yinka Ilori was an active participant in the watch’s design, personally designing the stylised numerals on the hour cylinder. I’ll also point out Mr Ilori is the model in all of these wrist shots. As for my thoughts on his work, I own some tableware he designed a few years back – which sits in my cupboard, seldom used but often admired. “Water” The M.A.D.1 series in general are dubious as a value proposition; though they are very affordable for an MB&F;-ish watch, they are pricey for the segment. But that misses the point – few are cross shopping these with similarly priced offerings from Tudor or Longines, or ev...

Hands On: MB&F; SP One SJX Watches
Bulgari May 20, 2025

Hands On: MB&F; SP One

With its fifth new model in as many months, MB&F; has been on quite the run to kick off its third decade. Fresh off the launch of the fun and affordable M.A.D.2, which followed closely on the heels of a collaboration with Bulgari and the introduction of the the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions, the brand has returned with the SP One, a contemporary take on the open-worked dress watch. Sleeker than the typical Horological Machine yet more avant garde than a Legacy Machine, the pebble-like SP One is the first model in a new “Special Projects” collection that packages the brand’s signature contemporary aesthetic in a smaller more wearable 38 mm footprint. The SP One joins the collection as a regular production model in either platinum or 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Picking up the SP One for the first time, one is struck by the light and airy nature of the watch. On the wrist, the minimalist case almost disappears, making the the SP One something of a wrist-worn display case for the Y-shaped movement. This effect is accentuated with a brushed internal flange dubbed ‘the amphitheater’ that focuses attention on the spectacularly three-dimensional mechanical architecture. The smooth pebble-like case measures 38 mm and is just 12 mm thick, making it the most compact MB&F; watch to-date. The front and rear sapphire crystals are cambered to blend seamlessly with the case, giving the SP One the feel of a polished stone. Visually, the smoothness is emphasised by lugs that ...

Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine Fratello
Bvlgari Feb 15, 2025

Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine

Of course, we can’t buy all the watches in the world, and not all watches are within our budgets. So, especially as someone who professionally writes about watches, I’ve learned to appreciate ones that are not in my financial scope or simply not my style. In some cases, that’s harder to do than in others. […] Visit Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine to read the full article.

Bulgari and MB&F; Collaborate on a Completely New Take on the Serpenti Worn & Wound
Bulgari Feb 10, 2025

Bulgari and MB&F; Collaborate on a Completely New Take on the Serpenti

Whenever Bulgari introduces a new Serpenti, we see a familiar chorus of articles and reactions, often but not always from male members of the watch media, opining on the possibility of a “Serpenti for men”. We don’t like to gender watches around here and firmly believe that anyone can wear anything they’d like, but there’s also no point in denying that the Serpenti, for its entire history, has been aimed squarely at the ladies market, and that the watch itself, insofar as it resembles a piece of fine jewelry, possesses a certain inherent femininity. So the thought experiment of what a Serpenti that is truly gender neutral or even designed for a male wrist has persisted (even though it’s perfectly fine for some watches to just be what they are). Today, through a collaboration with MB&F;, we get an answer, kind of.  The Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti is an audacious reimagining of the core Serpenti idea, which is to interpret the body of a snake as a time telling device. MB&F;, of course, is the perfect collaborator for an endeavor like this. They’re no strangers to taking the essence of a living thing and turning it into a horological work of art. After frogs and bulldogs, the snake seems like a comfortable next step in populating  the MB&F; zoo.  The new creation, unlike a Serpenti Tubogas that is meant to wrap around a wrist, is worn like a traditional watch, at least in the sense that it consists of a case with a strap mounted to either end of it. That case though...

MB&F; and Bulgari Reimagine the Serpenti SJX Watches
Bulgari Reimagine Feb 10, 2025

MB&F; and Bulgari Reimagine the Serpenti

MB&F; turns 20 this year, and is celebrating in style with a number of new releases planned. The first was the launch of the Legacy Machine Longhorn editions just under a month ago, and today the brand has partnered with Bulgari to unveil the Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti, a new take on the Italian jeweller’s iconic Bulgari creation. Available in three separate limited editions of 33 pieces each in titanium, rose gold, and steel (pictured above, left to right), the Serpenti takes on the provocative form of a serpent’s head, with the time read via rotating domes inside the creature’s “eyes”. Initial thoughts I’ve always appreciated the Bulgari Serpenti, arguably the only successful watch model to break with conventional bracelet design. So I was intrigued to see the brand’s collaboration with MB&F; dispense with the iconic spiral-shaped bracelet and focus instead on the serpent’s head. The intrigue of this Serpenti is centered on its case, which is understandably complex to create, given its flowing, organic shape and the need for enough precision to seal all five oddly shaped sapphire crystals well enough to earn a 30 m water resistance rating. With hinged lugs front and rear, the Serpenti will likely wear well on most wrists, despite its 18 mm thickness and 53 mm case length. The Serpenti is brought to life by a bespoke movement born from the HM10 Bulldog. Like its predecessor, the time is read via the “eyes” which are comprised of paper-thin aluminium domes; ...

Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More Fratello
Cartier Oct 15, 2024

Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More

Even if I do favor the cool expressions of indie brands, the majority of my watches are traditional. But my €2K Otsuka Lotec got the strongest reaction I’ve ever seen at Geneva Watch Days this year. As usual, I was trying to wear an inoffensive but interesting watch. I didn’t want it to clash with […] Visit Multiple Displays: Are They The Coolest Thing Since Tourbillons? - Examples From MB&F;, Vianney Halter, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

Industry News: Chanel Invests in MB&F; Worn & Wound
Chanel Invests Aug 22, 2024

Industry News: Chanel Invests in MB&F;

News broke this morning that Chanel has invested a 25% stake in MB&F;, one of our favorite independent brands. The investment comes on the eve of MB&F;’s 20th anniversary year, and is being framed by the brand as future-proofing the company. “It was our responsibility,” according to a statement from founder Max Büsser, “in today’s very favourable context and with our management team in its prime, to take this major step to ensure our long-term future.” MB&F; founder Max Büsser Büsser retains a majority stake in the company (60%) while his partner and Head of R&D; & Production Serge Kriknoff owns 15%. According to the statement released by MB&F;, the brand will continue to be run independently by the current leadership team, which also includes Charris Yadigaroglou (Head of Marketing Communications) and Thibault Verdonckt (Head of Sales). Brands taking on investment is of course nothing new, and the decision of a niche independent that has displayed over multiple decades that it’s capable of not only sustaining itself but growing feels like a smart business decision. It plays directly into a topic that comes up a lot in the world of independent watchmaking: What happens when a founder moves on? While there is no indication that Büsser is stepping aside anytime soon, longevity is something always on the mind of watch collectors. This is an industry, after all, where some brands can trace their roots to the 18th century. We covered this very topic in a Q&A; podcas...

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F; SJX Watches
F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...