Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Tour Of Grand Seiko, Part 2
From the mechanical watchmaking center of Studio Shizukuishi to the Seiko Museum back in Ginza, Tokyo, we finish our tour of Grand Seiko in Japan.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look – The New Krayon Anywhere Arborea, with a Dial Inspired by Henri Rousseau’s Masterpiece
Krayon, a watch design and engineering studio led by Remi Maillat and based in Neuchatel, caught the world’s attention in 2017 with the release of Everywhere, the first super-complicated wristwatch capable of calculating and displaying sunrise and sunset times anywhere on the globe. In 2020, the company followed up with the Anywhere – a seemingly […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition
Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...
Worn & Wound
Ikepod and Ace Jewelers Introduce a New Four-Way Megapod Collaboration
Not since the Beatles have four individuals teamed up to create something greater than the sum of its parts. While this might be just a tad hyperbolic, the new This Is Our Time Megapod watch in a cross-collaboration between Amstersdam’s Ace Jewelers, Ikepod, Laser 3.14 (an Amsterdam based street artist), and ABC (the multi-disciplinary design studio) is something to pay attention to. It’s not often that so many chefs find themselves in one kitchen – usually, broad collaborations only end in a Frankenstein product of sorts with each brand vying for a spotlight – but that doesn’t seem to be the case here with this particular reference. In fact, the four individual voices in this watch’s design all appear in conversation with one another instead of a shouting match to see who can be noticed first, with Marc Newson’s Ikepod design language tying everything together. Because of this, the This Is Our Time Megapod is a watch that is not only a fun release, but a great success story for other multi-party collabs to look at as inspiration. Okay, enough mixing metaphors here – let’s talk about the watch itself. For those familiar with Ikepod, you’ll already know the Megapod design. Coming in at a whopping 46mm, this is a big boy, but benefits from a lugless design making it a relatively easy wear despite its size. Additionally, the pared-down use of color makes it a subtle, albeit noticeable, design choice. The black dial and red lettering only enhance the re...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Enthusiast Spotlight: Hitting the High Notes with Brooklyn’s Own Ajii and the G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel
Worn & Wound has been a Brooklyn-based operation ever since its first post. We’ve got a lot of love for our location, our neighbors, and the culture that regularly pours out of this borough. So when we heard that one of Brooklyn’s own made this year’s top 20 of American Idol and that he’s a G-SHOCK super-fan, we had to have Ajii join us in our studio. Born and raised not far from us, Ajii is a first generation Brooklynite whose parents immigrated from Pakistan just prior to his birth. His colorful style, steel nerves, and serious pipes became the perfect backdrop for us to explore the all-new G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel. Hey Ajii! Thanks for being the next subject in our ongoing series of Enthusiast Spotlights with G-SHOCK. Give us the quick bio on yourself and what you’re up to these days! I’m so happy to do this, man. My name is Ajii. I am 28 years old and I’m born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. I am a musician. I was on the most recent season of American Idol and now I’m chasing a dream and trying to make my parents proud. I think that’s what I’m about. And hopefully, with consistency and everything I’m doing, it pans out the way I want. So I’m just a poor man living in a rich man’s world, trying to do big things. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Hitting the High Notes with Brooklyn’s Own Ajii and the G-SHOCK GM2110D G-Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Video
State Of The Collection 2019! - SOTC - Rolex, Seiko, Tudor, Omega
Monochrome
Introducing – Porsche Design presents The Chronograph 1 – 50 Years 911 Turbo Edition
Knowing the close connection between Porsche, the car manufacturer, and Porsche Design, the studio founded by F. A. Porsche, we’ve become used to seeing watches paying tribute to the carmaker’s most emblematic releases. Now, in 2024, Porsche is celebrating the 50th anniversary of a true icon on wheels, the fastest street sports car of its […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee Brings Back 1972 Memories, with a Twist
1972 was the year of the final Apollo mission, the dramatic Summer Olympics in Munich and the Watergate scandal. For what concerns us here at MONOCHROME, it was the year when a certain Ferdinand Alexander “Butzi” Porsche became independent and founded the Porsche Design Studio. His first product was a watch, the first black-coated watch […]
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin “From Geometry to Artistry” in Singapore
Vacheron Constantin will soon stage From Geometry to Artistry in Singapore, an exhibition to showcase the brand’s latest timepieces launched Watches & Wonders 2024, as well as an interactive kinetic artwork by design studio Lanzavecchia + Wai. According to Vacheron Constantin, the new timepieces for 2024, ranging from the Traditionnelle to the Overseas, demonstrate artistry inspired by geometric shapes, hence the exhibition’s title, From Geometry to Artistry. The exhibition will take place in 48 Bukit Pasoh from July 22-28, 2024. It’s open to the public, but registration online is required. This year’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with a green dial. La Bonsaï, the kinetic artwork by Lanzavecchia + Wai, was created in response reaction to exhibition’s theme. La Bonsaï is a mechanical bonsai-planétaire that goes into motion when guests touch the jewel-like plant. Each branch of the artwork is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s signature finishes, components, and movements, including a large blue disc on the trunk of the bonsai references the sunburst, satin-finish dial of the Patrimony, as well as a sphere on the base of the plate that orbits the trunk, a nod to the moon phase display. La Bonsaï, 2024 by Lanzavecchia + Wai. From Geometry to Artistry Open daily to the public July 22-July 28, 2024 2:00 pm-9:00 pm 48 Bukit Pasoh Road Singapore 089859 For registration, visit vacheron-constantin.com.
Time+Tide
In the Metal: Marcus explores $680,000 worth of Laurent Ferrier
Marcus enlists Zach to help him navigate an astounding $680K worth of Laurent Ferrier sent to his studio for shooting.The post In the Metal: Marcus explores $680,000 worth of Laurent Ferrier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SOTC - State of The Collection - August 2019.
SJX Watches
Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches
Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...
Fratello
Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials
Geneva-based Pragma is the brainchild of Christopher Wegener and Kai-Hsuan Liu. Wegener has 21 years of experience in watchmaking; he worked for Rolex and F.P.Journe, for instance. Liu is the brand’s Creative Design Director. He has a background at Hermès and a studio of his own, and his forté is fusing natural and technological elements. […] Visit Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Morgan and Pininfarina are Ready for Leasurely Cruises with the Stellar Midsummer
Both Morgan and Pininfarina are household names when it comes to car design. The British firm is known for its hand-built retro-styled roadsters and three-wheeled playthings, while the Italian studio is arguably one of the best in the business of designing show-stopping and supremely elegant cars. Both share over 200 years of coachbuilding history and […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Absinthe Watch by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès
What started as Massena LAB’s venture to create watches in collaboration with accessible niche brands or renowned independent watchmakers has grown to another level. Now, the horological creative studio not only designs and develops watches but has gotten to the point of co-developing its own proprietary movements. First seen with the Old School watch, made […]
Worn & Wound
A New Limited Edition from Massena LAB and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo Pays Tribute to a Classic
Phillips, along with Bacs & Russo, has recently unveiled the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition. This watch was created in partnership between three industry leaders: Phillips Watches, William Massena from the horological concept studio Massena LAB, and the award-winning independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The result is a watch that encompasses each collaborators’ unique talents, while building a watch that melds past and present seamlessly. Drawing inspiration from the legendary Observatory-grade Patek Philippe Ref. 2458 wristwatch, originally crafted in platinum for collector Joe Ben “J.B.” Champion, Jr. in 1952, this watch pays homage to horological history. Notably, the original timepiece set a record in 2014 as the most valuable time-only wristwatch ever auctioned, solidifying its iconic status. Despite its vintage influences, the 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition has a distinctly modern essence. Building upon the technical foundation established by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès in 2022 with the Magraph Limited Edition, this collaboration introduces a 38.5mm × 10mm stainless steel case housing the manual-wind, proprietary caliber M690. This movement is a refinement of Massena LAB’s inaugural movement, features sub-seconds at 9 o’clock and hand-decoration (including hand finished anglage on bridges and plates) overseen by Swiss craftsmen under Pagès’ direction. Embracing a love for vintage timepieces and the narratives surrounding them, the colla...
Video
State of the Union 2019 // What is Theo & Harris?
SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold
As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Drops Another Abstract Atelier Oï Edition
In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces. Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial. The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design. The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market. Inspired by a sundial The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 77: Mission to Watches & Wonders
Episode 77 of A Week in Watches is going to be slightly different. This episode has two hosts and no script! With the big event happening so soon (the next episode will be made from Watches & Wonders), we figured getting ready with a little Q and A would be fun. That said, two very different watches with prominent moon phase complications were also worth covering. Join Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss in the studio as they discuss the new releases and then answer some fantastic questions from the W&W;+ Slack community. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which recently added the new Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Tourbillon to the catalog. It is a gorgeous piece of haute horology that showcases Mr. Silberstein’s unique style. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check them out, as well as accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 77: Mission to Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The First Overseas Stop for Grand Seiko “Alive in Time Through the Five Senses”
In its first stop outside of Japan, Alive in Time Through the Five Senses just concluded in Singapore, with other cities possibly being on the cards. Conceived to present the spirit of the brand by engaging all five senses, the exhibition was made up of five sections: sight, sound, touch, taste, and smell. The exhibition began with sight, where guests were greeted by watchmakers Satoshi Hiraga and Ikukiyo Komatsu, representing the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi and Shinshu Watch Studio respectively. The former specialises in mechanical movements, while the latter is responsible for Spring Drive, so each watchmaker demonstrated his speciality: Mr Hiraga worked on a 9S automatic calibre while Mr Komatsu on a 9R Spring Drive movement. Also on display was the third Grand Seiko movement family, the 9F Quartz. The visual transitioned to the aural in the sound section where visitors were treated to an immersive film experience depicting the 340 parts of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon. Despite the impressive mechanical complexity of the Kodo, one of the distinguishing elements of the movement is its 16-beat rhythm resulting from the overlapping ticks and tocks of both the escapement and the remontoir. The exhibition continued in the area dedicated to touch simulating a precisely prepared Zen garden. Guests could try various Grand Seiko models – and take the obligatory wrist shot against the tranquil beauty of the garden. The taste and smell area concluded the experience with...
Fratello
The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models
The Lapinist Watch Studio is a well-known source for case restorations of vintage Grand and King Seiko watches. Aside from his work, Kamil Rybarczyk, the Lapinist himself, also handcrafts display backs for these watches. Today, we’re pleased to report that his newest project is ready, and it should be sweet music to the ears of […] Visit The Lapinist Launches Sapphire Crystals For Vintage Grand Seiko And King Seiko Models to read the full article.
Video
2019 State of the Collection Review - Rolex, Omega and Tudor
Time+Tide
Time+Tide 10 brought together friends, family, and founders
There are few better ways to celebrate a milestone than with the people that helped you get to that point. With more than 100 people crowding into our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio, Andrew and Marcus took us through the years of Time+Tide. From the very first video the duo filmed together, to the chocolate-dipped Panerai … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide 10 brought together friends, family, and founders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom
In a year already busy with watch company/movie studio collaborations, IWC Schaffhausen has provided a late entry to the genre just in time for Christmas-well, for those with $57,600 in their gift budget for loved ones. The watch: The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The movie: Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom In the film, Aquaman (Jason Momoa) faces off against Black Manta (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II). What Black Manta lacks in virtue, he makes up with cutting edge tech, from his Atlantean armored suit and black IWC Aquatimer with fittingly villainous red lume highlights. Black Manta is joined by the Atlantis-obsessed Dr. Stephen Shin (Randall Park), who gets his own Aquatimer, identical except for the blue lume found on his model. In an interview with Worn & Wound, IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop recalled director James Wan asking for the IWC creative team’s ideas on prop watches. “So I said, ‘yeah, James, we have some concept studies, secret design concepts and probably nobody will ever see them, but we are happy to share them,’” Knoop said. Working with the film’s creative team, Knoop landed on the design they ultimately used and that both teams loved. “We usually take a couple of years to develop a watch and then James and team got super excited and said, ‘okay, can you send over the watches in 10 days,’” said Knoop. The versions used in the film weren’t functional, assembled to meet the quick deadline necessary for the movie, but K...
Revolution
Rexhep Rexhepi, The Remarkable Journey of the Horological Prodigy
Rexhep Rexhepi, renowned as a formidable watchmaker and horological prodigy, solidified his reputation through a remarkable journey. His exceptional career took a significant turn when he joined one of contemporary watchmaking giants, Francois-Paul Journe. In 2012, at the young age of 25, Rexhepi embarked on his horological odyssey by establishing Akrivia, a watchmaking studio bearing […]
SJX Watches
anOrdain Combine Woodwork and Enamel in the Model 3 Method
The latest release from Scottish microbrand anOrdain continues its run of interesting enamel dials. The Model 3 Method combines a stamped silver dial covered with translucent enamel to create a deep, textured finish similar to that of flinqué enamel. Created in collaboration with Method Studio, a Scottish woodworking studio, the pattern resembles a wooden block that has been artistically chiselled away. Initial thoughts This is not the first time anOrdain has used a textured silver dial base covered in translucent enamel. We have seen it before in the Model 1 Fumé, which boasted a hand hammered finish. In the new Model 3 the indentations are far more pronounced, giving a more dramatic look. I have been a fan of the Glasgow-based brand for a while now, and its willingness to try new things arguably shows a mindset that is lacking in the wider industry. While nothing technically new has been done here, the combination of a woodworking texture and technique, with the miniature canvas of a watch dial has given us this brilliant look that sits perfectly within the anOrdain aesthetic. While the dial is fantastic, there is one area that I could conceivably suggest an improvement from studying the imagery that we’ve been provided. And that is instead of pad printing the markers onto the dial surface, instead printing them onto the underside of the crystal which would have left the dial texture completely untouched. But that is really the only room for aesthetic improvement...
Time+Tide
The story of Thomas Gaunt, premier Melbourne clockmaker
After the opening of Time+Tide’s Watch Discovery Studio in our hometown of Melbourne, I started thinking about the city’s relationships with clocks and timekeeping. I can’t begin to count the amount of times I’ve arranged to meet people ‘under the clocks’ at Flinders Street Station, ‘under the clock’ at Melbourne Central shopping centre, or ‘in … ContinuedThe post The story of Thomas Gaunt, premier Melbourne clockmaker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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