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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Mar 20, 2023

Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch

A recurring theme that we’re seeing in the watch enthusiast space this year is a heightened interest in interesting quartz watches. It comes up all the time on our podcast, on Instagram, and certainly in the YouTube comments for our recent coverage of a quartz release from TAG Heuer. Clearly, there’s an appetite for this stuff, but it seems like the big Swiss brands are still a step behind their Japanese counterparts in terms of delivering watches that are high on value while pushing the envelope in terms of quartz tech. Exhibit A: Citizen, and their new Eco-Drive 365 line, which gives us a fairly substantial movement upgrade in a package that doesn’t look quite like anything else on the market.  The big news here is the introduction of the all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement. As the name implies, these light powered movements have a running time of an entire year on a full charge. That’s an impressive accomplishment, just about doubling the running time of a standard Eco-Drive movement, which already made for the ideal watch to completely forget about in a sock drawer for months at a time. The new caliber is able to maximize power consumption for an even longer running time than previous movements while keeping the same 27mm diameter as its predecessor. The new E365 calibers are accurate to within 15 seconds per month.    For the first batch of E365 releases (which unfortunately won’t be available until fall of this year) Citizen is looking back to the e...

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Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2023

Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2

Editor’s note: As soon as Invicta is mentioned in the presence of watch enthusiasts, jests and jeers are inevitable. The brand has long strayed from its centuries-old heritage and has since evolved into a mall and QVC/TV-peddled watch brand largely known for affordable homage-driven designs. But Kieran, a recent addition to the Time+Tide team, has done something … ContinuedThe post Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Reprise While Mar 18, 2023

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise

While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!

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Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 17, 2023

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall

Jay-Z and his watches.  Historically, he's been an AP man.  He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man.  Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT"  and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.

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Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Mar 17, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow

Last month, Zach Kazan brought us 5 Instagrams accounts with endlessly awesome watch content to scroll through. If you ask us, the key to a good Instagram feed is diversity, so we’re here with 5 more recommendations that we think will add some real value to your well earned scrolling time. We’ve got a little of everything here, including a few bonus picks outside of the realm of watches to keep your sanity in check.  Without further ado, here are 5 (and a bit more) selections from our Managing Editor, Blake Buettner. As always, if you have any of your own recommendations for us, feel free to leave them in the comments below! Header image credit: @talkingabouttime @talkingabouttime   View this profile on Instagram   Stephen (@talkingabouttime) • Instagram photos and videos Stephen, aka talkingabouttime is a photographer with some serious skills in catching the details of watches from some of our favorite brands. Stephen also has a knack for sharing watches from new brands you may not yet be familiar with, and thanks to the beautiful photography, make them quite enticing along the way. I love the sheer diversity of watches that appear on this feed, and have stumbled across more than a few hidden gems while scrolling. @10thwatch   View this profile on Instagram   X (@10thwatch) • Instagram photos and videos This account belongs to a collector perpetually looking for the perfect 10 watch collection, with the 10th being the best, obviously. This collector has eclec...

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How Swiss is Swiss enough? Time+Tide
Mar 17, 2023

How Swiss is Swiss enough?

According to the BBC, the Swiss chocolate bar, Toblerone, is being forced to remove the image of the iconic Swiss Matterhorn mountain peak on its pyramid-shaped packaging, due to some of its production moving from Switzerland to Slovakia. The reason? Not Swiss enough. Clearly, having “Swiss made” on the label is valuable, especially for products … ContinuedThe post How Swiss is Swiss enough? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pocket Watches: From Historical Icons to Modern Collectibles Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 17, 2023

Pocket Watches: From Historical Icons to Modern Collectibles

Before wristwatches, there were pocket watches, and while pocket watches have long been eclipsed in the market, and in the hearts of many collectors, by their wrist-worn brethren, they never went away entirely. In the 21st century, a pocket watch is a rarity that can represent many things: for a watch aficionado, it can be a proudly retrograde style statement to complement a boldly chosen ensemble, or a Holy Grail piece to proudly display at the center of a collection of wristwatches. For a watchmaker, the pocket watch’s larger dimensions can provide a playground for the most ambitious high-horological inventions and decorative artistry. As I explore in more detail in this article, the historical figure most often credited as the inventor of the pocket watch is German clockmaker and locksmith Peter Henlein (1485-1542), who cobbled together the first so-called “clock-watches,” i.e., compact timekeepers designed to be worn on a person’s body, in his shop in Nuremberg in 1510. Essentially drum-shaped, ornamental brass boxes, with primitive, single-handed movements made of iron or steel inside, and suspended on chains draped around one’s neck, these devices were more regarded as ornamental jewelry than reliable timepieces. The drum-shaped cases eventually gave way to more smoothly rounded oval shaped ones, aka the so-called “Nuremberg eggs,” which were also worn as pendants. King Charles II of England ushered in the next major step in the evolution of watches wit...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe Mar 17, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes

TGIF! But before we all get some must needed R&R; this weekend, especially with Watches & Wonders kicking off next week, there have been some interesting watch releases this week ahead of the biggest watch fair in the world – and from three independents no less! Let’s jump right into it. H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Debuts Mar 16, 2023

Christopher Ward Debuts a Pair of C63 Sealanders with their SH21 Movement

Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander, the brand’s value oriented, all purpose sports watch that debuted in April 2021, is getting an upgrade this week, and for a good cause. With all of the press concerning Christopher Ward’s Bel Canto at the end of last year, it would be easy to forget that they have another, perhaps even more significant, horological achievement in the Calibre SH21 movement. This five day, chronometer certified movement is the brand’s flagship, and the first industrialized mechanical caliber from a British watch brand in fifty years. It’s genuinely historic, so when they put it in a watch for the first time, it’s a special occasion by default. These new Sealanders live up to the occasion not just in terms of design and aesthetics, but by being the face of a worthy charitable endeavor as well.  The C63 SH21 Blue Marine is the latest watch that Christopher Ward has made in partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, a marine conservation organization that the brand has worked with several times. For this release, 5% of the sale price of Blue Marine watch will go back to the organization to benefit their efforts around cleaning the ocean of rising levels of plastics. Similarly, the C63 SH21 Snow Leopard is being launched with the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, another longtime Christopher Ward charitable partner. The DSWF is a wildlife charity that funds conservation projects throughout Africa and Asia, and for this release 5% of the sale of ...

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H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé Worn & Wound
H. Moser Finally Introduces Mar 16, 2023

H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé

You know what’s satisfying? When a watch brand does the thing that just about everyone wants them to do, after a period of time where it seemed like they definitely were not going to do that very thing. Listening to customers and delivering what they want is a hallmark of the microbrand scene, and, at least to some extent, independent watchmaking as a whole. But it needs to be balanced – you can’t just turn out every request that comes in, lest a brand lose their identity in the process. So what H. Moser has done here with a pair of new watches in the Pioneer collection feels quite special, like they’ve heard the voice of the community and reacted in a particularly Moser way.  When I reviewed the Moser Pioneer “Mega Cool” I commented that the immediate impression of the case, in terms of its size, was not a positive one. The 43mm Pioneer case in stainless steel is heavy and kind of clunky, with proportions that seem designed to make it recognizable from across a room rather than contour to the wrist. In principle, I don’t have a problem with that approach – there’s nothing wrong with a watch being brash and bold just for the sake of it. But even as I gradually got used to the size of the Pioneer during my time with it, the case’s oversized aesthetic was just never to my taste. Kind of a shame, because I absolutely love the dial, and the idea of an elevated, luxury sports watch in this style holds a lot of appeal for me.  This week, Moser has gone a lo...

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Five Modern Retro-Styled Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, Blancpain, And Seiko – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Panerai Breitling Blancpain Mar 16, 2023

Five Modern Retro-Styled Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, Blancpain, And Seiko – Reprise

The "good ol’ days” aren’t over yet – at least in the world of mechanical watches, where the appreciation of traditions and the creation of lasting values are as essential as the balance wheel and the escapement. Here, Sabine Zwettler takes a look at five of her favorite modern retro-styled watches from Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, and Seiko.

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[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Collabs Owner’s Edition Plus Mar 15, 2023

[VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction)

This edition of On-Wrist Reaction is a little different, with Zach and Blake both bringing personal watches to the table which the other has yet to see. We’ve got two very different, and very cool collaboration watches: one from Louis Erard and atelier oi, and the other from Nivada Grenchen and this here outfit, Worn & Wound. This isn’t just any Nivada Grenchen, this collab features the legendary Valjoux 72 caliber beating away inside. Likewise, the Louis Erard takes a hard contrast to what we’re used to seeing from them, let alone in regulator style watches writ large.  Oh, and we’ve got a bonus reaction to a new watch from Vaer called the R1 Chronograph. No, it’s not the 38mm variant. But it’s still all kinds of cool and we take a closer look fresh out of the box. You can read more about this watch right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post [VIDEO] On-Wrist Reaction: Louis Erard & Nivada Grenchen Collabs; Owner’s Edition (Plus, Bonus VAER Reaction) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Mar 15, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato

It’s a good time to be an Aston Martin fan. Review embargoes finally lifted on their next generation hypercar, the Valkyrie (spoiler alert, it’s bonkers); their Formula 1 team is showing a shocking amount of pace with the legendary Spainiard, Fernando Alonso (don’t call him old) at the wheel; and finally, as of today, that iconic Aston Martin Racing Green is now available in the new fully ceramic Laureato from Girard-Perregaux. The Laureato is low key one of the great integrated sport watches at the high end, and this is the first time it’s been offered in AMR green, as well as being fully rendered in ceramic.  The newest limited edition additions to the Laureato range will be offered in both the 38mm and 42mm sizing, mirroring what is currently offered elsewhere in the collection. More options is never a bad thing in our book, though in my brief time with the watch I found the 38mm to wear exceptionally well given the shape of the case. Unlike other integrated watches, the Laureato manages the lug transition in a way that more closely resembles the footprint of a more traditional lug placement, leading to a more ‘true to size’ experience with the watch. With that in mind, the 42mm doesn’t wear overly large, and given the weight of the watches will not present much in the way of heft, either. Both sizes are relatively scant, with the 42mm measuring 11mm in thickness, and the 38mm measuring a hair over 10mm in thickness. With a case and bracelet constructed o...

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Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Teams Up Mar 15, 2023

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement

For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions.  The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter.  The Chronograph Médical lim...

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New video collection goes backstage with Julia Roberts and Chopard Time+Tide
Chopard Celebrity endorsements Mar 15, 2023

New video collection goes backstage with Julia Roberts and Chopard

Celebrity endorsements and brand partnerships can often come off as soulless, however there are the rare occasions that you can discern a genuine fondness behind the corporate lens. The luxury jeweller and watchmaker Chopard have been using the “Chopard Loves Cinema” slogan for quite some time, and the sentiment is definitely beyond the point of … ContinuedThe post New video collection goes backstage with Julia Roberts and Chopard appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

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Micro-Brand Digest: Inventive Divers, Anti-magnetic Field Watch, & One Charming Chronograph Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Inventive Divers, Anti-magnetic Field Watch, & One Charming Chronograph

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Gyavius Watch Company NAVI The Sophomore release from a brand called Gyavius represents a serious jump forward, and dabbles in the rarely seen fixed lug bar space. The watch, which is called the NAVI, has just launched its batch 1 order window, and it represents a healthy step in an original direction when it comes to dive watches from micro-brands.  The NAVI is a 45mm dive watch with a fixed lug bar allowing a pass through strap, and allowing for a rather organic looking case shape overall that might wear a bit better than the numbers might suggest. But those numbers are there for a reason, this is a 100ATM diver, tested to 1000M of pressure. Do any of us need that much depth resistance? Absolutely not, but hey, it’s a pretty cool watch and if you’re going to go big, you may as well go all the way.  The matte dial gets a generous helping of pad printed lume with hand applied green lume overtop for a maximum visibility and a pretty cool look. Inside you...

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Worn & Wound’s Watches & Wonders Predictions Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Mar 14, 2023

Worn & Wound’s Watches & Wonders Predictions

Watches & Wonders is fast approaching, and that means one thing: we’re running out of time to make predictions. It seems like everyone has some ideas about what we might see later this month in Geneva from Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, and others, and that certainly includes the Worn & Wound editorial team. The key difference, as podcast listeners are well aware, is that we have a demonstrated history of being completely, 100%, wrong. Here now are our wildest thoughts on what we might see at Watches & Wonders in just a few short weeks. These might seem a little crazy, but would you really have thought Rolex might release a lefty GMT at this time last year? We didn’t think so.   Zach Weiss I’m really not good at making predictions for Watch & Wonders or other release events, and this year, half of the brands have already unveiled at least something coming up already (we keep embargos, so don’t even ask). That said, last year I did jokingly say in the office that if Tudor came out with a BlackBay 58 with a GMT and a steel bezel, I’d buy it, assuming the notion was too absurd. Sadly, that’s not in writing, so you’ll have to take my word for it, but I did follow through with the BBPro purchase. Anyway, I’m not making any such promises this year. Last year was one of big releases as it was the first true-Swiss tradeshow post-Covid lockdown. This year, I don’t think we’re going to see such exciting launches in general. So, prediction one is just a more ordi...

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In conversation with Ariana DeBose, Oscar winner and Omega ambassador Time+Tide
Omega ambassador Mar 14, 2023

In conversation with Ariana DeBose, Oscar winner and Omega ambassador

The 2023 Academy Awards was held this past weekend, but just prior to the ceremonies I flew out to California to join Omega for a pre-Oscars celebratory dinner for one of their latest ambassadors Ariana DeBose, who won the Oscar for best supporting actress last year for her portrayal of Anita in Steven Spielberg’s West … ContinuedThe post In conversation with Ariana DeBose, Oscar winner and Omega ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 SJX Watches
Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Mar 14, 2023

Up Close: Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38

For over a decade now, Montblanc has been attempting to become a serious watchmaker, an endeavour that started after its acquisition of Minerva. Despite having found only modest success there, the pen maker-turned-luxury-goods-house has produced a good number of proper haute horlogerie watches – mostly chronographs and some with surprisingly accessible prices – many of which have gone under appreciated due to the brand name. A perfect example of the Minerva mechanical excellence and sharp pricing is Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38 that was introduced in 2019. The Heritage Small Second is all about the movement, specifically a new-old-stock Minerva calibre from the early 2000s finished to an impressive, artisanal standard. Despite the exceptional movement, the watch never really gained much recognition (much like Montblanc’s other Minerva offerings), but it is certainly worth a revisit. Initial thoughts With its retro, two-tone dial in faddish “salmon”, the Heritage Small Second looks like one of the many vintage-inspired watches that has been (re)produced to excess by many brands in various price segments. But this stands out for the impressive degree of detail in the movement, which is finished to a degree comparable to that of artisanal independent watchmakers. The hand-wound MB M62.00 inside is the star. According to Montblanc, it’s an “untouched” calibre from the attic made during a period when Minerva’s then-owners were dedicated to eleva...

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Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 13, 2023

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux

Watches with compasses are a rare breed among tool watches, mainly because - unlike chronographs, dual time zone functions, and calendars - their usefulness in everyday circumstances is rather limited. Generally, in the era of GPS and Google Maps, one rarely has a pressing need to identify True North on a hand-held (or wrist-worn) device. However, like other “niche” watch functions that serve mainly as aesthetic curiosities in quiet business or domestic environments, compasses - which can be as low-tech as a movable bezel with orientation markers or as high-tech as a digital readout that takes control of the watch’s display at the push of a button - have a special appeal to active, outdoorsy enthusiasts. Avid hikers, mountain climbers, spelunkers, and others devoted to adventure in environments where one is often bereft of modern conveniences like reliable wifi, tend to gravitate toward a more rugged, utilitarian style of watch, often with built-in tools that go beyond timekeeping. This is why you’ll often find compass-equipped watches with other useful indicators for factors like temperature, atmospheric pressure, and altitude. The relative rarity of compass watches could also be traced, at least in part, to a handful of truisms. One is that as an additional indicator on a watch, it’s basically superfluous: any analog watch with an hour hand, hour markers, and reliable accuracy can be used for orientation, at least while the sun is out. Simply lay the wa...

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