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Max Bill

Bauhaus-trained Swiss designer behind the canonical 1962 Junghans Max Bill wristwatch.

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus Time+Tide
Omega Apr 20, 2022

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus

Colour is no longer a novelty in the watch space, with many brands releasing rainbow-inspired dials in their everyday wear pieces. We’ve extensively covered the contributions from Rolex and Omega to name but a couple. Nomos is also no stranger to colour, previously applying a bright touch to the Ahoi. With the new Club Campus “blue … ContinuedThe post Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 17, 2022

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking

Just as the biggest watch fair of the year opened its doors in Switzerland earlier in April, an industrial-scale watchmaking enterprise was born in France. Conceived as a vertically-integrated watchmaking group that makes movements for its own brands Aiôn Group, wants to establish “Made in France” as a key segment in a luxury-watch arena that’s dominated by Swiss, German, and Japanese players. Backed by government funding, Aiôn has the ambitious goal of producing 400,000 movements per year by 2025 in its new manufacture on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. Although Aiôn has kept mum about the origins of its industrial capability, it is well known within the Swiss watch industry that the French group took over Swiss movement maker Felsa-Leschot, which was then moved lock, stock, and barrel to France. [Update April 20, 2022: Respected Swiss newspaper Le Temps published an article expressing scepticism about Aiôn, especially about the movement “factory” that Aiôn acquired. The article references the factory owner’s chequered history and involvement in multiple lawsuits. We believe the doubts expressed by the writer at Le Temps are well founded and would encourage everyone to read the article of March 16.] A Swiss foundation One of Aiôn’s founders is Anthony Simao, a French watchmaker who started his career in Swiss watchmaking, having worked at Breitling, Audemars Piguet, and Chronode. He then founded French watch brand Lornet, which has been merge...

VIDEO: Unpacking the new TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds to serious divers Time+Tide
TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds Apr 13, 2022

VIDEO: Unpacking the new TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds to serious divers

Amongst all the gargantuan and intricate displays at Watches & Wonders, the TAG Heuer area was buzzing. After bumping into Kristian Haagen from DailyWatch, Andrew headed in to break down the list of TAG Heuer new releases, and unpack what makes them so exciting. Lots of attention has been justifiably given to the TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Unpacking the new TAG Heuer releases from lab-grown diamonds to serious divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Goes Big Apr 11, 2022

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds

TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S

Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Revives Apr 1, 2022

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks

One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

A hidden gem amongst Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches, the Overseas Tourbillon is thin, understated, and good value as such things go. Now it receives a thorough makeover. Gone is the dial and excess metal from the bridges, creating the new Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. Available in two metals, the titanium variant is particularly intriguing as it’s a metal that is rarely used by the haute horlogerie watchmaker. Titanium with blue accents Initial thoughts Though polar opposites aesthetically, the Skeleton is every bit as handsome as the standard Overseas Tourbillon. In terms of finishing, aesthetics and watchmaking, the Tourbillon Skeleton is top of its class not only in the luxury-sports category but even among the brand’s other offerings. A reason for this is the well proportioned case that measures 42.5 mm wide and only 10.39 mm tall. This results in elegant, flat-and-wide proportions that defines the most desirable luxury sports watches. These proportions gives the watch a sporty aesthetic that is further enhanced by the blackened, skeletonised movement. In comparison, the base Overseas model is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker.   It’s also thinner than a open-worked Royal Oak and Laureato tourbillon The movement within is notable for balancing simplicity and complexity, which tends to be a challenge for skeletonised movements. In comparison, I find the latest Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon too nuanced and the GP Laureato Openworked Tourbillon t...

Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Mar 20, 2022

Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

Flicking through the Guinness Book of Records, some achievements leave you furrow-browed with a mix of bewilderment and awe. Whether it’s the “most T-shirts removed while heading a football” (21) or “the world’s tallest hat” (4.8 metres), there’s no denying these are remarkable accomplishments. But while the dedication of such record breakers is beyond reasonable … ContinuedThe post Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray Deployant
Longines Legend Diver Mar 19, 2022

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray

Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.

The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57 Time+Tide
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Mar 18, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57

For months now, I’ve been looking for a mechanical chronograph to add to my small collection. It’s a complication I’ve always loved. And after weeks of research, and multiple list comparing watches, I set my sights on the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 in blue. I even recently visited the Breitling boutique in NYC to try … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Mar 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green

Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mar 2, 2022

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby

Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names

Last week we launched our first ever Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword, and based on your feedback you guys were really happy with it – which makes us all here at Time+Tide very happy. As promised, this is not a one and done. Each week, we will post a new crossword for you all to solve … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #2 Notable Names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik platinum grey Feb 24, 2022

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months Time+Tide
Feb 22, 2022

My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months

Editor’s note: Sometimes you want an informed opinion. You have a problem with your knee – you speak to a doctor. You urgently need to get bail after some unfortunate “misunderstanding” lands you in jail – you put a call into your trusty lawyer. But if you want to get a subjective overview of the … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Feb 20, 2022

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?