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Max Bill

Bauhaus-trained Swiss designer behind the canonical 1962 Junghans Max Bill wristwatch.

My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months Time+Tide
Feb 22, 2022

My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months

Editor’s note: Sometimes you want an informed opinion. You have a problem with your knee – you speak to a doctor. You urgently need to get bail after some unfortunate “misunderstanding” lands you in jail – you put a call into your trusty lawyer. But if you want to get a subjective overview of the … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Feb 20, 2022

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

Offset showers Cardi B with six Chanel bags and “$375K” Audemars Piguet for Valentine’s Day Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Feb 19, 2022

Offset showers Cardi B with six Chanel bags and “$375K” Audemars Piguet for Valentine’s Day

When you think Valentine’s Day gifts, normally you’d think of flowers, chocolates or jewellery. But American rapper Offset, member of the Migos, does not hold back when it comes to gift-giving – luxury is his love language. For example, back in July we reported one of our youngest and most extravagant watchspots ever on the … ContinuedThe post Offset showers Cardi B with six Chanel bags and “$375K” Audemars Piguet for Valentine’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2022

Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names?

Sometimes I encounter a watch that makes me think of Kim Jong-il. Let me explain. With more than 1,200 official titles, the North Korean dictator boasted more aliases than the average member of the Wu-Tang Clan. These included “Guardian Deity Of The Planet”, “Ever-Victorious General”, “Lodestar of the 21st Century”, “Eternal Bosom of Hot Love” … ContinuedThe post Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 across Feb 13, 2022

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne

I know that 5711 Nautilus talk is getting a bit old. Run ending green dials, Tiffany blue dial madness, $6.5m dollar bids at auction etc. But now it really is gone. Done. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, across all metals, have been removed from the catalogue. While this discontinuation has skyrocketed the secondary premiums … ContinuedThe post With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

Three highlights to keep an eye on in Zurich auction of rose-gold only watches Time+Tide
Feb 8, 2022

Three highlights to keep an eye on in Zurich auction of rose-gold only watches

In the eyes of the larger watch marketplace, steel is the king. As a more entry-priced metal, with qualities highly suited for daily wear, it makes sense that the majority of watch buyers are drawn to these pieces. But today, with steel being all the rage, a bit of an ironic dilemma has arisen. While … ContinuedThe post Three highlights to keep an eye on in Zurich auction of rose-gold only watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Anniversary Wine Suggestions For 2022: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important Than The Price Quill & Pad
Jan 31, 2022

Anniversary Wine Suggestions For 2022: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important Than The Price

It never fails: pull out a bottle of wine from a friend or family member’s birth year and the entire event becomes just that little bit more special. Of course, the older we get the harder that becomes, but it is far from impossible. And, of course, if you were so fortunate as to have arrived on earth during a great “vintage,” so much the better. Here, Ken Gargett makes some wine recommendations for celebrating a big anniversary or birthday in 2022.

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century SJX Watches
Bulgari Debuts Jan 31, 2022

Bulgari Debuts the Smallest Movement of 21st Century

Bulgari is starting the year big with something impressively tiny – the hand-wind BVL 100 Piccolissimo that’s the smallest mechanical movement of the 21st century at just 12.3 mm wide and 2.5 mm tall. The minuscule movement makes it debut in the latest version of Bulgari’s iconic snake-bangle wristwatch – it is one o the most iconic jewellery watches of all time in fact – the Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery Secret Watch. While many versions of the Serpenti bracelet have been equipped with quartz movements in recent years, the BVL 100 means the watch within the snake’s head is once again mechanical, just like the originals of the 1950s. The tiny barrel bridge of the BVL 100 Initial thoughts While the Serpenti Misteriosi is a high-jewellery watch that has little practical appeal for most watch collectors, it’s difficult to easy to appreciate watch for its combination of design, craft, and of course the technical achievement of the BVL100. Amusingly enough, the Serpenti Misteriosi is, technically speaking, an integrated-bracelet watch with a reversible dial – two features highly coveted in the watch world – though the lavish jewels and lacquer disguises most of its horological qualities, which also illustrates the power of the iconic design. The forked tongue is a trigger to open the snake’s head, revealing the time below But over-the-top style is only useful for a specific audience – and specific occasions – so for the rest of us, there’s the ...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 26, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202

Audemars Piguet’s opening act of the year is straightforward but significant: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202. Created to mark the 50th anniversary of its quintessential octagonal watch, the new “Jumbo” is arguably the first truly new version of the original Royal Oak, as it contains a latest-generation movement. the cal. 7121 replaces the cal. 2120/2121 that’s been in service since 1972. Naturally the ref. 16202 makes it debut in the quintessential combination of a blue-grey dial and steel case. And the line up also includes three precious metal versions that are arguably more striking (and certainly more expensive). The cal. 7121 Initial thoughts With the retirement of the ref. 15202 announced last year, an all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” became inevitable. And the fact that this year is the 50th anniversary of the model makes it even more so. It happened and fortunately, the new “Jumbo” lives up to expectations. It’s still very much the same – the case dimensions remains unchanged – but revamped just enough to it a substantively new watch in technical terms. And then there are the gorgeous smoked dial finishes, which set it apart from past models and make it the “Jumbo” of the 21st century. Especially delicious in yellow gold The highlight of the ref. 16202 is the cal. 7121. Still ultra thin like its predecessor, the cal. 7121 boasts a modern construction that promises superior timekeeping over a longer period as well as better r...

VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2) Time+Tide
Jan 20, 2022

VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2)

To finish off the list of our favourite 2021 releases by budget, we’re going beyond the notion of affordability, and even beyond attainability. Whether or not you have half a million dollars to drop on a watch, doesn’t necessarily guarantee that you will be able to get one, and that just makes the prospect all … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Jan 13, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition

Naomi Osaka is undeniably one of the modern tennis greats, but where she really stands out is in the press conferences. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not a tennis fan, but her dry humour and earnest attitude makes her seem like one of the most approachable and down-to-earth athletes of this generation. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Naomi Osaka Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA009 Jan 11, 2022

What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches?

Grand Seiko is wasting no time in 2022, dropping two new icy blue US Special Editions straight out of the gate and now making waves with a second “White Birch” inspired watch: The Grand Seiko SLGA009. This release ushers in a new era for Grand Seiko watchmaking that the brand refers to as Evolution 9 … ContinuedThe post What are the differences between the Grand Seiko SLGA009 and SLGH005 “White Birch” watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” Time+Tide
Jan 11, 2022

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year”

If you want to get know what makes any given watch collector tick, then it is wise to get a sense of what is in their watch collection. But if you really want to dig deeper, then its best to ask which watch they wear the most. Right before the close of 2021, the team … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: “The Watches We Wore The Most This Year” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Of The Best Of Seddiqi’s Golden Jubilee Special Editions Celebrating 50 Years Of The UAE Quill & Pad
Jan 9, 2022

5 Of The Best Of Seddiqi’s Golden Jubilee Special Editions Celebrating 50 Years Of The UAE

Some of the top watch manufacturers in the world have released special edition watches in honor of the 50th anniversary of the UAE for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, who stages Dubai Watch Week. This collection of 35 models – which is also very likely already long sold out – makes for a very interesting chapter in the ever-evolving stories of the UAE and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Check out five of the most interesting right here!

VIDEO: How to buy your partner a watch for Christmas Time+Tide
Dec 25, 2021

VIDEO: How to buy your partner a watch for Christmas

EDITOR’S NOTE: What’s that you say? It’s already Christmas? Oh well, better late than never I suppose. Plus there’s always next year, too. This video primer will arm you with the knowledge to really jingle your partner’s bell in the horological gift department at least… If you’re thinking of pulling the trigger on a watch for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How to buy your partner a watch for Christmas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Keep your watches secure and wound in style with Wolf Watch Winders Time+Tide
Dec 21, 2021

VIDEO: Keep your watches secure and wound in style with Wolf Watch Winders

As watch collectors, we all buy quite expensive timepieces and if you’re going to invest in a quality watch then it makes sense to also invest in boxes to protect and preserve them. We all look for attention to detail in this hobby, and with almost two centuries of expertise under their belt, this is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Keep your watches secure and wound in style with Wolf Watch Winders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @tyalexanderphotography and his amazing watch shots Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2021

WHO TO FOLLOW: @tyalexanderphotography and his amazing watch shots

Crisp. Clean. Accurate colours. These are all the things that come to mind when I think of this week’s Who To Follow. This gentleman posts some of the best watch photos on Instagram. On every shot, he perfectly highlights the aspect of each watch that makes it special. His Instagram handle is @tyalexanderphotography and here … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @tyalexanderphotography and his amazing watch shots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.