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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Jan 27, 2022

Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick

Sometimes I wonder if I will ever watch a movie or any piece of film without my eyes searching the screen for a watch. On multiple occasions, I’ve stopped a movie mid-way just to find out what’s on an actor’s wrist. And today, it feels like I’ve hit a new low. Not even an action-movie … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham wears a green dial Panerai Radiomir in Guy Ritchie’s latest flick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On! Quill & Pad
Jan 25, 2022

Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On!

On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Bulgari 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Bulgari 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Bulgari 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Bulgari 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Zenith 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Zenith 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Zenith 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Zenith 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: TAG Heuer 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview Time+Tide
Hublot 2022 novelties overview Editor’s Jan 24, 2022

LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview

Editor’s Note: We get that this LVMH Watch Week there is a ton of ground to cover, with four brands all releasing a range of novelties to kick off the year. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. … ContinuedThe post LVMH WATCH WEEK: Hublot 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Kering Sells Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux to Management SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Jan 24, 2022

Business News: Kering Sells Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux to Management

After several years of trying to grow its sub-scale watch division, Kering has sold both of its watch brands in a management buyout led by chief executive Patrick Pruniaux. A former Apple executive who started his watch career at TAG Heuer, Mr Pruniaux first took charge of Ulysse Nardin in 2017 before also taking the top job at Girard-Perregaux a year later. He proceeded to merge both brands into a single factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a move that was subsequently followed by layoffs the next year. The slimmed-down brands will have the flexibility to do more, while also facing the challenge of being relatively small players facing off against stronger brands. The French luxury group never managed to replicate the earlier success of its watch brands, both of which were run by iconoclastic entrepreneurs – Rolf Schnyder at Ulysse Nardin and Luigi “Gino” Macaluso at Girard-Perregaux. Both their deaths led to their heirs selling the respective companies to Kering, the Macaluso family in 2011 and the Schnyder family in 2014. Patrick Pruniaux With brands like Gucci and Saint Laurent in its stable, Kering had 2020 revenues of over €13 billion, leaving its two-brand watch division diminutive in comparison. The group never found the right formula for its watch division, resulting in the gradual erosion of sales. At the time of their respective acquisitions, Girard-Perregaux has annual sales of about CHF180 million and Ulysse Nardin about €190 million according to recent es...

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Having Jan 23, 2022

Up Close: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor

Having enjoyed modest success with its affordable(ish) Tonda GT sports watch launched two years ago, Parmigiani tweaked the concept and debuted a more refined – and pricier – sports watch last year, the Tonda PF. The line up includes the base-model Micro-Rotor in steel reviewed here, along with a chronograph and annual calendar. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor in steel Taking generous inspiration from the brand’s more classical timepieces, the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelet. While the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor doesn’t deviate much from the familiar formula for a luxury-sports watch, it does excel in a few ways, helping it stand out from the competition, most notably with its minimalist dial and ultra-thin automatic movement that are both executed to a high level. And its bigger brother, the Tonda PF Chronograph in pink gold Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is surprisingly thin, making it seem slightly wider than its 40 mm diameter. But it sits flat and elegant, with the lines of the case flowing into the bracelet, giving it a sleek look on the wrist. Despite its delicate looks, the Micro-Rotor (along with the rest of the Tonda PF range) is water resistant to a respectable 100 m. Unlike many of Parmigiani’s recent models (including its more affordable sports watch, the Tonda GT), the Tonda PF is minimalist in terms of styling. And the Micro-Rotor, being the simplest watch in the collection, is the most pared back. Its di...

Joshua’s Top 10 Watches Of 2021: 5 Mechanical Marvels + 5 Daily Wearers Quill & Pad
Jan 23, 2022

Joshua’s Top 10 Watches Of 2021: 5 Mechanical Marvels + 5 Daily Wearers

Joshua Munchow has separated his top 10 watches of 2021 into two groups, the first being his top five mechanical marvels: watches showcasing some incredible mechanics that get his creative juices flowing. The second group constitutes his top five daily-wear watches: pieces that are so beautiful that he would have a hard time wanting to wear something else. Let’s dive in!

New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes Deployant
Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games Jan 22, 2022

New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes

The new Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games is a limited edition of 2022 pieces and retails at S$2860. It is a colorful variant to an otherwise common dive watch design, and benefits from a rather robust 3-day automatic movement. Fit on a bracelet and water resistant to 300m, the watch is versatile and sporty, and rather ideal as a daily beater.

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...

WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials Time+Tide
Jan 21, 2022

WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials

It’s been nearly a decade since this bug of collecting watches bit me. In that time, I wish I could tell you that was the only hobby slowly assaulting my wallet. However, photography also became another passion of mine (had to kick Lego off the bus to make room). Interestingly, carrying multiple hobbies and interests … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out Time+Tide
Patek Philippe clears theirs out We’re Jan 21, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out

We’re a few weeks into the new year, and while a lot has already happened the watch industry is not showing any signs of slowing down. Game-changing novelties and decisions are already happening, and with LVMH Watch Week starting next week and Watches & Wonders Geneva inching closer and closer you already know the pipeline … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 “pink Jan 21, 2022

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia

Continuing the steady pace of personnel changes since French telecoms tycoon Patrick Drahi acquired Sotheby’s in 2019, the auction house has just announced an overhaul of its watches and jewellery departments in Asia. The chairman of Jewellery and Watches for the region is Wenhao Yu, formerly of Beijing-based Poly Auction. The jewellery department will be led by Regine Ngan, while the watch department promoted from within with Joey Luk being elevated to the top job. The trio will report to Josh Pullan, who was appointed  Head of Global Luxury Division just last year after almost a decade as a manager in Sotheby’s digital and e-commerce departments, which no doubt explains Sotheby’s volume of online-only auctions. Left to right: Regine Ngan, Wenhao Yu, and Joey Luk A veteran of watch auctions despite her relative youth, Ms Luk was most recently Head of Sale, having been recruited to Sotheby’s from Phillips in 2018. Ms Luk succeeds Sam Hines who will “take on an advisory role for Sotheby’s worldwide Watches sales efforts”. Mr Hines led Sotheby’s to a record year in 2021, where watch auctions totalled over US$150 million. Sotheby’s also claimed the title of most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in 2021 with the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” once belonging to an Egyptian prince that sold for US$9.57 million (pictured at top). He will be leaving Sotheby’s with a bang – his closing act will be a single-owner sale of 41 Patek Philippe wr...

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork Time+Tide
Rado Jan 20, 2022

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork

If you’re an ambitious tennis player, you could do a whole lot worse than start wearing a Rado. Consider the evidence. Former ambassador, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012 and the next year he became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936. Adding further credence to Rado’s lucky-charm powers, Ash Barty … ContinuedThe post Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2) Time+Tide
Jan 20, 2022

VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2)

To finish off the list of our favourite 2021 releases by budget, we’re going beyond the notion of affordability, and even beyond attainability. Whether or not you have half a million dollars to drop on a watch, doesn’t necessarily guarantee that you will be able to get one, and that just makes the prospect all … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 2) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris Quill & Pad
Jan 19, 2022

Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris

Some wine books are absolute must-haves for any serious, wine-obsessed drinker/collector. Jasper Morris’ 'Inside Burgundy,' released just over a decade ago, is right at up the top of that list. Put simply, it was as thorough and thoroughly competent an examination of a region and its wines as exists anywhere. And Morris has just released an updated second edition, which Ken Gargett reviews here.

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… Time+Tide
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements Jan 19, 2022

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time…

Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches Time+Tide
Tudor FXD Jan 19, 2022

RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches

Watches with real military heritage carry a special allure to them – something that has been recognised both by enthusiasts and collectors. There’s a reassuring authenticity about a tool watch designed for a specific purpose (look at the Marine Nationale’s input into the design of the Tudor FXD, for example), or a watch built to … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: British Navy sailor jailed for stealing Special Forces dive watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.