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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2481 Jan 21, 2022

Obituary: Giovanni Zavota, Vintage Watch Dealer (1952-2022)

A distinctive gentleman whose trademark outfit always called for multiple scarves looped around his neck, Giovanni Zavota was one of the old-school Italian dealers who shaped vintage watch collecting of the late 20th century, having sold some of the most important wristwatches – amongst them a steel ref. 1518 and the platinum ref. 2499. He passed away on 15 January, aged 69. I would see him each time I went to Geneva for the auctions and he was clearly an original character. He was most comfortable conversing in Italian, which I speak none of, so we only spoke briefly a few times. But one occasion that stands out in my memory is when I encountered him in Italy and he was wearing a Patek Philippe ref. 2481 with a cloisonné dial – and a matching bracelet – on one wrist, and on the other he had on a crisp and enormous Longines Lindbergh. Two watches of different style and disparate value, yet each interesting and important in its own way – a sure sign the man had good taste and understood historical significance. Giovanni Zavota. Photo – Auro Montanari A testament to his place in the world of vintage watches – specifically the pre-internet world – was the turnout at his funeral, which took place on January 18 in Collecchio, a small town just south of Parma where he had spent his summers as a boy. Almost a hundred people turned up, including family and old friends, but also a large contingent that exemplified the Italian-centric, late-20th century world of vinta...

WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials Time+Tide
Jan 21, 2022

WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials

It’s been nearly a decade since this bug of collecting watches bit me. In that time, I wish I could tell you that was the only hobby slowly assaulting my wallet. However, photography also became another passion of mine (had to kick Lego off the bus to make room). Interestingly, carrying multiple hobbies and interests … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: See what happens when music and watches collide with @vinylsanddials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out Time+Tide
Patek Philippe clears theirs out We’re Jan 21, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out

We’re a few weeks into the new year, and while a lot has already happened the watch industry is not showing any signs of slowing down. Game-changing novelties and decisions are already happening, and with LVMH Watch Week starting next week and Watches & Wonders Geneva inching closer and closer you already know the pipeline … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 “pink Jan 21, 2022

Business News: Joey Luk to Lead Sotheby’s Watches in Asia

Continuing the steady pace of personnel changes since French telecoms tycoon Patrick Drahi acquired Sotheby’s in 2019, the auction house has just announced an overhaul of its watches and jewellery departments in Asia. The chairman of Jewellery and Watches for the region is Wenhao Yu, formerly of Beijing-based Poly Auction. The jewellery department will be led by Regine Ngan, while the watch department promoted from within with Joey Luk being elevated to the top job. The trio will report to Josh Pullan, who was appointed  Head of Global Luxury Division just last year after almost a decade as a manager in Sotheby’s digital and e-commerce departments, which no doubt explains Sotheby’s volume of online-only auctions. Left to right: Regine Ngan, Wenhao Yu, and Joey Luk A veteran of watch auctions despite her relative youth, Ms Luk was most recently Head of Sale, having been recruited to Sotheby’s from Phillips in 2018. Ms Luk succeeds Sam Hines who will “take on an advisory role for Sotheby’s worldwide Watches sales efforts”. Mr Hines led Sotheby’s to a record year in 2021, where watch auctions totalled over US$150 million. Sotheby’s also claimed the title of most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in 2021 with the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “pink on pink” once belonging to an Egyptian prince that sold for US$9.57 million (pictured at top). He will be leaving Sotheby’s with a bang – his closing act will be a single-owner sale of 41 Patek Philippe wr...

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork Time+Tide
Rado Jan 20, 2022

Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork

If you’re an ambitious tennis player, you could do a whole lot worse than start wearing a Rado. Consider the evidence. Former ambassador, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012 and the next year he became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936. Adding further credence to Rado’s lucky-charm powers, Ash Barty … ContinuedThe post Tennis star Ash Barty teams up with Rado for new HyperChrome and artwork appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris Quill & Pad
Jan 19, 2022

Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris

Some wine books are absolute must-haves for any serious, wine-obsessed drinker/collector. Jasper Morris’ 'Inside Burgundy,' released just over a decade ago, is right at up the top of that list. Put simply, it was as thorough and thoroughly competent an examination of a region and its wines as exists anywhere. And Morris has just released an updated second edition, which Ken Gargett reviews here.

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… Time+Tide
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements Jan 19, 2022

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time…

Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 14, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member

Well, 2022 is certainly not wasting any time when it comes to new announcements. Already Grand Seiko, Zenith and TAG Heuer have launched fresh timepieces this week, and there is only more to come with LVMH Watch Week rapidly approaching. Grand Seiko dropped the mic, launching a second White Birch inspired watch: the Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: Turn passion into art with @sunflowerman.watch Time+Tide
Jan 14, 2022

WHO TO FOLLOW: Turn passion into art with @sunflowerman.watch

Artists have always been tasked with capturing a moment in time so those in the future can enjoy it. This mission becomes more interesting when it’s time itself that the artist is capturing. That freezing of time by the skilled hands of an artist gets communicated perfectly through a canvas. At the same time, we … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Turn passion into art with @sunflowerman.watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s new ambassador but Jan 12, 2022

Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy

Musician and producer Mark Ronson has just been revealed as Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador. The good news? This isn’t your standard take the-money-and-run celebrity endorsement. The DJ, songwriter and record producer is a genuine watch guy as this peek into his collection reveals.  Better still, ahead of this announcement, Ronson’s go-to wristwear offered stone-cold proof … ContinuedThe post Mark Ronson is Audemars Piguet’s new ambassador, but his collection shows he’s a genuine watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne Quill & Pad
Jan 11, 2022

Inside Burgundy’s History, Including A ‘Royal War’ With Champagne

When Ken Gargett first got interested in wine, he was warned about Burgundy. It was made abundantly clear that he (by which he means a bunch of friends with far more experience in wine than he had) drank Bordeaux. But times change and the greatest wines he has tasted have been Burgundies. Here he relates the region's fascinating history, including a historical war of words with Champagne.

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jan 11, 2022

In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2022

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only

Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...

Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura watches Jan 9, 2022

Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday

The Hamilton Ventura was a truly revolutionary watch upon its release. While Richard Arbib’s extremely unique case shape turned heads, it wasn’t the Ventura’s true party piece. As the world’s first electric watch powered by a battery, it became an instant worldwide sensation. However, the Ventura’s true claim to fame comes as Elvis Presley’s companion … ContinuedThe post Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.