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Revolution
A stunning split-seconds chronograph based on an historic military model, the new 1858 Split-Second Chronograph is a limited edition of 18 pieces crafted out of a new alloy called Lime Gold.
SJX Watches
Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...
SJX Watches
An architect turned watch designer, Alain Silberstein was a star of the 1990s, being perhaps the most avant-garde watch brand of the decade. The Frenchman’s quirky and geometrical designs were the diametrical opposite of the classical style that was then the industry norm. Though his eponymous brand shut down a few years ago, Mr Silberstein is still active as a designer, most recently collaborating with Louis Erard on an affordable, regulator-style watch. Now he is making a comeback in a big way – literally. With the help from French clockmaker Utinam, Mr Silberstein has taken the cover off the Kontwaz Bauhaus 2, KB2 for short. A monumental skeleton clock, the KB2 is available in two versions: a 2 m high standing timekeeper, or in a compact, wall-mounted form. The KB2 wall clock Alain Silberstein Initial thoughts The KB2 is not Mr Silberstein’s first foray into clocks. He designed several other versions of the Kontwaz Bauhaus in the 1990s, which were produced by a French clockmaker and occasionally pop up on the secondary market today. That makes the new KB2 is a pleasant surprise that harks back to his earlier career. As with most Silberstein creations, the appeal of the KB2 lies in the design, which is complex and distinctive, yet composed of simple shapes. The geometrical forms and colours are lightly arranged in harmonious whole – an impressive feat, for a lesser designer would have just created a mishmash of elements. The standing KB2 The key for winding ...
Quill & Pad
If you’re like GaryG, you’ve been spending some time during the current pandemic-driven lockdown monitoring online watch publications, including Quill & Pad, and you’ve likely seen at least a few comments in response to posts that go something like this, “How in the world can you possibly be focused on something like watches at such a terrible time?” Well, Gary is here to tell you.
Quill & Pad
Perhaps not surprisingly, Martin Green always had a profound preference for the color green: a touch of this color is a sure way to attract his attention and interest! Here he shares four of his favorite recent watches with green dials and explains why he thinks they stand out from the crowd.
SJX Watches
The subscription model – where customers pay for access, but not necessarily ownership – is familiar, and increasingly prevalent. Spotify and Netflix are amongst the best known examples, but subscriptions are now found in fashion – a new wardrobe weekly – and even automobiles, with Porsche Drive that offers a new car every month. And now also in watches: Breitling becomes the first major watch brand to offer a subscription with BreitlingSelect. More accurately, BreitlingSelect is a combination of a subscription and instalment payment plan. It starts with the wearer rotating amongst a handful of trial watches over a year, while paying a monthly fee. But at the end of the year, the total fee paid can be put towards buying one of the watches worn during the trial. Initial thoughts Watch subscription isn’t novel. New York-based ElevenJames launched with much fanfare in 2013, before shutting down quietly five years later. There have been plenty more similar services offered in several of the world’s major watch markets, but few have been sustainable. Consumers quickly realise it makes more sense to save for a watch, rather than paying subscription fees, which are by nature hefty since the timepieces being subscribed to are luxury watches. Breitling clearly believes that its subscription service can buck that trend. The crucial difference between BreitlingSelect and everything that has come before is the brand – BreitlingSelect is being offered by the watch manufa...
SJX Watches
Having taken charge in A. Lange & Söhne at the end of 2010 – while the brand was still suffering from the effects of the 2007-2008 Financial Crisis – Wilhelm Schmid has now been the German watchmaker’s chief executive for a bit over a decade. He did not join Lange from within watchmaking, instead he was recruited from a German luxury brand of another sort, the carmaker BMW. But in the decade since Mr Schmid has carefully and steadily developed the brand, and in the process become one of the longest-tenured – and highly regarded – leaders in the watch industry. From its modern-day foundation in 1994, Lange made watches of first-class quality. That, along with the ethos of the brand, has been preserved, but at the same time, Mr Schmid has deftly evolved the brand’s image, in both product and communication – the Odysseus being an obvious example – bringing its peerless quality recognition amongst a broader audience. The brand’s success in recent years has translated into robust demand for its products – a good problem to have but one that Mr Schmid apologises for, as you’ll find out below. I spoke with Mr Schmid over Zoom last month, and enjoyed a wide ranging conversation that looked back on the last 10 years, as well as forward, where he notes e-commerce is now a certainty for Lange, but online exclusives are not. Zooming with the Odysseus The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: How has Lange been coping with the disruptions of 2020? Wil...
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s vintage curation for 2021’s Les Collectionneurs particularly showcases their exemplary watch designs from the mid-20th century
Quill & Pad
De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.
Revolution
The return of the iconic Blancpain “No Radiations” dial.
Time+Tide
While Panerai was founded way back in 1860, its rise to prominence came on the back of a very specific type of celebrity: the action hero. It was thanks to the likes of Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger that brand awareness soared following wrist-bound cameos in films like Daylight, Eraser, Rambo IV and The Expendables … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g have a refreshingly playful approach to watchmaking. As the British microbrand explain on their website. “When the biggest news in the watch-world for 2020 is that a certain brand (that shall not be named) had increased their case size by an unfathomable 1mm it got us thinking… Why… so… serious…? Don’t worry, we … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You don’t always have to look to the usual suspects or pay a hefty price to get a quality watch. There is a wide spectrum of manufacturers in this industry and, with so many releases each year, it can be a bit of a challenge to follow every reference introduced. While the below list of … ContinuedThe post Hiding in plain sight – 6 sleeper hit watches you might have missed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“Shrink and pink” is a relatively recent term to describe how watch brands sometimes use a men’s watch as a base for making a timepiece more oriented toward the female consumer. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares five watches whose makers employed the “shrink and pink” tactic so successfully that she would wear them in a heartbeat. And spoiler: none of them are pink.
Deployant
Chillout TGIFridays return with a hands-on review of the new Leica SL2-S after a week as our daily camera for our work here.
Time+Tide
When we talk about what attracts people to watches, you may typically expect the response to be the movement. But when it comes to the larger marketplace, arguably the most important element, aside from case diameter, is the dial. The dial is what catches your eye first. As much as some people jest they would … ContinuedThe post Dammit, I wasn’t supposed to buy this Sinn U1 DS, but I just did… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Paw prints, Celtic bands, bows on thighs, pretty much anything inked on the face… There’s no shortage of tattoo choices that are questionable at best and watch tattoos represent yet another baffling sub-category. After all, if you want to visibly declare your passion for a particular brand or model, there’s a straight-forward way to do … ContinuedThe post Watch tattoos have become a bizarre new trend. What is wrong with people? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
“By this time next year, we’ll expand even further into the junk food franchises… get ready for the Pink Starburst Seawolf. The Astropop. The Count Chocula GMT… Ecto Cooler… The Hamburglar… Cool Ranch Doritos… iconic names for iconic color sets.
Quill & Pad
Versatility was at the top of Patek Philippe’s thoughts when the firm designed the Twenty~4. The goal was to achieve “a beautiful expression of today's contemporary woman” by creating a watch that can accompany women all day long. Hence the “24” in its name. Martin Green takes us through 20+ years of this now-iconic pillar collection.
SJX Watches
A leader retailer of independent watchmaking, Singapore-based The Hour Glass has just inaugurated The Persistence of Memory, a virtual exhibition dedicated to the craft. Covering the period starting from 1970 till today, the exhibition encompasses most of the key figures in independent watchmaking during those five decades. And it is about people, rather than brands, since these timepieces are often, quite literally, the creation of a watchmaker’s mind and hands. I wrote most of the content, and it was written as a brisk journey through the careers of each watchmaker, along with their most important timepieces. The Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain Hosted on a dedicated site, the exhibition is arranged into sections and largely chronological, tracing the evolution of the craft from its start with individuals like George Daniels, to the stars of today, most notably Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. Other boldface names in the exhibition include Francois-Paul Journe, Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, and Denis Flageollet. A trio of Resonance by F.P. Journe Dual Dufour Duality Much of the content is illustrated by uncommon and special watches – over 150 in fact – drawn from collections around the world. The line up of timepieces include the two landmark pocket watches by George Daniels, the Space Traveller I and Grand Complication, as well as the most important examples of Philippe Dufour’s work. Visit the exhibition on Thehourglass.com.
Revolution
Le Rhöne delights with a stunning Grande Phase De Lune timepiece that captures the arresting beauty of a clear night’s sky
Time+Tide
As one British alliance lies wounded from failing to remain in touch with the times, another is going from strength to strength. Indeed, unlike the Royal Family, the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers has time on its side. Late last year, while Britain was coming to terms with the double whammy of another … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: British Watchmaking’s brave new dawn appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
For Synchron's 25th anniversary year, the group decided to release a special tribute - and the very first Synchron-badged dive watch.
SJX Watches
The sixth variant of Urwerk’s entry-level model, the UR-100V T-Rex is classical Urwerk in form and complication. But the UR-100 in general is simpler and smaller than the average Urwerk, although the T-Rex is more extreme than the average Urwerk in terms of aesthetics. The heavy patina on the pronounced hobnail-milled case is primeval and lives up to its name. Urwerk lent me an example to wear for a couple of days – I was grateful especially since I got to compare it with the brand’s earlier, and heavier, models – and here’s how it went. The T-Rex of 2021 (left), next to the UR-103 of two decades ago Initial thoughts Reasonably compact, thin, and lightweight, the UR-100 is probably the most easily wearable Urwerk wristwatch to date. It’s also the closest to being a conventional watch – though it is still far from a conventional watch – which perhaps explains some of its wearability. And it is very wearable, particularly compared to precious-metal models. Not only is it light and manageable in size, the shape of the case back helps it sit better on the wrist. Being essentially the same watch, the T-Rex wears just as well as the other versions of the UR-100. Compared to most other Urwerk models, the UR-100 feels almost like an ordinary watch on the wrist. The recent UR-220 comes close because it is surprisingly lightweight, but it’s still a noticeably larger watch. And the T-Rex is equally as functional as other Urwerk watches with the satellite-disc time...
Revolution
One of Zenith’s best collaborations so far, the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone is a wearable work of kinetic art where time and light converge into a single object.
Time+Tide
Unfortunately, yet another theft has shaken the watch world. As luxury items, it’s no secret these coveted and pricey items can become targets for thieves with criminals standing to make a lot of money if they quickly offload the stolen items. The New York Post, among a host of other news outlets, reported that jewellery … ContinuedThe post Rare $500K Richard Mille RM 11-03 stolen at gunpoint in Beverly Hills, owner offering $50K reward for its return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Every woman – nay, every person – is different. Which means their needs and wants will be different. All Elizabeth Doerr can do is tell you about her own experience with watches. But perhaps the most important thing of all to know is that any watch is a woman’s watch if a woman is wearing it.
Deployant
Casio G-SHOCK releases a series of mixed media documentary in 5 parts on the iconic series of watches - "From the Begining to GMW-B5000".
SJX Watches
Popular globally but especially in Commonwealth countries, cricket is the biggest sport in India, which accounts for over 90% of the one billion cricket fans globally according to the sport’s governing body. During the 2019 Cricket World Cup, the India-Pakistan match was seen by by 545 million people in India alone. So if there was ever an appropriate sport for an Indian watchmaker, it certainly is cricket. Bangalore Watch Company (BWC) does exactly that with the Cover Drive, a wristwatch with a cricket score-counting bezel. Initial thoughts Sport-themed watches are common, but a cricket watch is definitely a first. While I’m not a fan of the game, I can see how the Cover Drive would appeal to cricket enthusiasts. For one, the watch is catered to cricket in terms of function, with a bezel that’s graduated to “track elapsed overs in a 50-overs or T20 cricket match” according to the BWC. And its aesthetics are also gently inspired by the game. The hour indices, for instance, are modelled on a stump, the wooden pole used in cricket that make up a wicket. And the triple marker at 12 o’clock resembles a wicket, which made up of three stumps and protected by the batsman. However, all of that also means the Cover Drive – itself is named after a particular shot in cricket – is very much a niche product, albeit one with a billion-strong audience. While the cricket references will only resonate with fans of the sport, the Cover Drive is designed well. It’s legi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Kaz and Baird sit down this week and talk watch servicing - specifically what your expectations should be if you've never gotten a watch serviced before. Plus the guys go over when it is and isn't worth servicing a watch, what to look for in a good watch tech, and so much more!
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