Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: The Panel Discussion And Q&A; From The 'Keeper Of Time' Premiere
A group of familiar faces (and voices) chat about the new film, the persistence of timekeeping, and take a handful of great questions.
Results for El Primero
514 articles · 16 videos found · page 14 of 18
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Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A386 Revival Zenith
38 mm × 12.6 mm, lug 19 mm, Cal. El Primero 400
Icon · Guide
El Primero Zenith
The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
Wiki · Guide
El Primero Zenith
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Exclusive · Guide
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport: El Primero Without the Chronograph
Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Everyone Brought Out Their Best Watches For The 'Keeper Of Time' World Premiere
The red carpet was ablaze with top-shelf timpieces.
Quill & Pad
For The Sake Of Sake: A Primer With Tasting Notes - Reprise
Basically, sake comprises rice, water, and the fermenting agent called koji, resulting in an alcoholic level that usually sits between 13 and 16 percent. And you might be interested to know that the rice used is different from the standard table rice so popular with Japanese food. Ken Gargett takes a deep dive into what sake is, what types of sake are available, and whether you should drink it warm (like James Bond) or cold. Kampai!
Revolution
Introducing the Harry Winston Premier Sunflower Automatic 36mm
Harry Winston introduces two new models embellished with the House’s iconic Sunflower motif, designed to complement other pieces in the Sunflower collection
Hodinkee
Interview: Elie Bernheim, The Man Refocusing Raymond Weil
His brand is synonymous with mass-market affordability – not that there’s anything wrong with that. But Bernheim anticipates a day when RW can also speak to serious enthusiasts.
SJX Watches
Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker
Fine finishing in high-end watchmaking automatically brings to mind polished bevels, black-polished steel, Cotes de Geneve, blueing, and even perlage. But less thought is given to frosting, even though it is prominent in the grandest of timepieces made by leading independent watchmakers. Put simply, frosting is the treatment of a metal to create an uneven, pitted surface. A beautifully rough finish, frosting dulls the appearance of the component it is applied to. Many brands rely on the technique for decoration, but often in strikingly different forms. Akrivia, Greubel Forsey, Masahiro Kikuno, and Roger W. Smith are all known for their frosted finishes, but each differs from the other in technique and aesthetic effect. The frosted bridges on the front of the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Heroes and sidekicks When it comes to finishing methods in horology, I like to separate them into two categories: heroes and sidekicks. The sidekicks – such as perlage, graining, and of course frosting – are the methods that help the heroes stand out. Do not think any less of the sidekicks because without them, the heroes would not get the attention they deserve. The heroes are the methods that make you wonder: “This is beautiful – how did they do that?” Black polishing, blueing and engraving are just a few of them. As in the comic books, heroes and sidekicks work together to make each other look good. But as is frequently the case in fiction, sidekicks are often forgotten. Take fo...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 109: Watch Vlogger Jenni Elle
One of YouTube's biggest watch personalities talks to us about the "Rolex Game," embracing controversy, and why she loves weird watches.
Quill & Pad
Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking - Reprise
Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.
Quill & Pad
Detailed Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things
Recently Joshua Muchow has become somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he's learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.
Revolution
World Premiere: Introducing the MB&F; HM7 ‘Aquapod’
Two revelations and one realization about the Horological Machine No. 7 ‘Aquapod’, MB&F;’s first foray into a water themed kinetic sculpture.
Revolution
Agents Of SHIELD: An Antimagnetism Primer
It’s safe to say that magnetism is just one of those things - like gravity and friction - that gets taken for granted even though it fundamentally defines every aspect of our lives. The principles of magnetism are at work in the vast legions of electronic equipment that surround us. They are also present at […]
Monochrome
First Look - Elka Watch Co. Launches a Vintage-Looking Series with the “Tour des Chavannes”
Despite reviving a defunct Dutch name, the young microbrand Elka Watch Co., Hakim El Kadiri’s project, is now firmly rooted in Swiss heritage. El Kadiri went to the point of creating a surprising pair, combining a Neuchâtel-based single malt whisky and a special edition of his minimalist watch with an amber-toned dial to match. And […]
Time+Tide
The Rolex Day-Date is still the ultimate watch of ballers and shot-callers
Whether you call it the Day-Date, the President, the Presidential, or even El Presidente, this is likely the watch most non-watch people think of when they think of Rolex. While watch nerds may rattle off esoteric Swiss watchmakers and obscure reference numbers, without a doubt, Rolex is the go-to answer when you ask a normal … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date is still the ultimate watch of ballers and shot-callers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - Elka Watch Launches Loch Lat, Merging Watchmaking and Fine Whisky
Elka Watches is a relatively young brand built on a historical, defunct Dutch name, which was relaunched a couple of years ago by Hakim El Kadiri. Despite having no connection with the defunct Amsterdam brand, he wanted to pay tribute to the old Dutch brand and bring back the flair of the 1960s with modernised […]
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera
Konstantin Chaykin returns with another variation of his signature Wristmon “rolling eye” wristwatch, this time inspired by El Día de Muertos. Translating as “Day of the Dead”, the Mexican festival celebrates the departed and has served as inspiration for watchmakers as diverse as Chopard and Swatch. Modelled on the sugar skull candy known as calavera made for the festival, the latest from the Russian watchmaker is the Calavera. Like the other Wristmons, it has an exuberant face with the typical features of a Wristmon – time is indicated by the eyes while the mouth is a moon phase display. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin has created many Wristmon variants – the most recent was inspired by the titular yellow characters of Minions – which makes it seem like a great many have been produced. But in reality each edition is a small run of 20 or less watches, which means the aggregate number of watches is modest. Still, the appeal of the various Wristmon editions vary; because of their similar complications, the models tend to converge on each other. The Calavera, however, stands out. With its bright colours and curlicues, the striking face easily evokes the Mexican festival, while being distinct from other Wristmons. Familiar dimensions As is typical for a Wristmon, the dial is fairly complex. Here it’s comprised of 12 components, with the base featuring a stamped radial-wave guilloche and finished in a bright silver meant to resemble powdered sugar of ...
Time+Tide
Beheadings, vice and a massive harem: The wild inspiration behind the Cartier Pasha
The Pasha of Marrakesh enjoyed a life of barbaric splendour. During the first half of the 20th Century, Thami El Glaoui rose from a tribal warlord in the Atlas Mountains to become one of the richest men in the world. His colossal wealth stemmed from interests in Morocco’s salt and mineral mines compounded with the … ContinuedThe post Beheadings, vice and a massive harem: The wild inspiration behind the Cartier Pasha appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph
Inspired by the tale of a water resistant sports watch commissioned in 1934 by Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh – which was actually a rectangular watch – the modern Pasha was penned by Gerald Genta, the man behind many of the most iconic watches of the 1970s and 1980s, which were often considered avant-garde for their time. One year after the relaunch of the time-only model, the jeweller is debuting the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new chronograph on the wrist Initial Thoughts The Pasha Chronograph is an appealing watch. It does wear slightly large at 41 mm and but is surprisingly svelte at just under 12 mm in thickness. Add to that 100 m of water resistance and a moderate price premium of US$3,500 or so over the time-only model and you realise that the Pasha Chronograph is a compelling package. Granted, the “Vendome” lugs are not to everyone’s tastes, but the Pasha remains as classically Cartier as the jeweller’s form watches. The “Vendome” lugs and chain-secured crown cap are Pasha design hallmarks The movement is finished modestly and industrially, a sharp contrast to the dial finishing, which punches above its price point in terms of its detail. Nonetheless, its price of a bit under US$10,000 in steel makes the Pasha chronograph competitive, and also good value. Fine details The Pasha Chronograph measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.97 mm in thickness – it retains the same diameter as the time-only model and gains a...
Time+Tide
LIST: Got the car? Get the watch - 3 Hublots for 3 Ferraris
In our experience, if you’re into intricately constructed, high-performance machines, it doesn’t really matter if they’re intended for the road or your wrist. But, as our favourite young Old El Paso advocate asks, “Why don’t we have both?” So with that in mind, we’ve found three Hublots that are the perfect pairing for three of … ContinuedThe post LIST: Got the car? Get the watch – 3 Hublots for 3 Ferraris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with TAG Heuer’s Guy Semon (Video)
Why is Wei Koh speaking with Guy Semon about the Zenith El 21? Watch to find out!
Hodinkee
Introducing: Fredrique Constant Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition (Live Pics)
What We Know Last year, Frederique Constant released its classic perpetual calendar with a new movement, the FC-776, and eighteen months later, the brand is releasing a burgundy edition of its Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar, limited to 100 pieces. As Mark wrote when the previous edition was released right before last year's Watches and Wonders, the watch "has been one of if not the premiere affordable mechanical perpetual calendar on the market," and with the burgundy edition, the brand is offering a limited edition option to the collection. The polished stainless steel case measures 40mm by 12.25mm and has an anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, 50 meters of water resistance, and an engraved case back carrying the individual edition number. The sunray-finished dial shifts from deep wine tones to brighter reflections, with a Côtes de Genève pattern on the counters. The day sits at 9 o'clock, the date at 3 o'clock, and the month and leap year at 12 o'clock. The moonphase at 6 o'clock runs against a midnight-blue background with laser-engraved stars. A chemin de fer minute track, applied faceted hour markers, and polished hands, and the fluted onion crown complete the dial. The Manufacture Classic Perpetual Calendar Burgundy Limited Edition, comes on a black alligator strap with a folding buckle and includes a second strap in burgundy alligator with an easy-open deployment clasp. It is priced at $12,995, limited to 100 pieces, and is available now. What We Thin...
Monochrome
First Look - The Raymond Weil Freelancer World-Traveller, For the Brand’s 50th Anniversary
Founded in 1976 by Mr Raymond Weil at the height of the quartz crisis with a mission to produce quality watches at affordable prices, the brand remains family-owned and is now in the hands of the third generation. With CEO Elie Bernheim at the helm, Raymond Weil is enjoying a revival thanks to the successful […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons
Conventional wisdom holds that stopping a tourbillon for precise time setting — “hacking” in watchmaking parlance — is a difficult endeavor given the constant rotation of the cage. The hacking tourbillon wristwatch didn’t arrive until 2008, courtesy of the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret. In fact, hacking of any sort remained a rarity until the last few decades — ironic, since the primary function of the seconds hand has arguably evolved from a way to assess accuracy into an indicator that a watch is running. Some brands are still in the process of adding stop-seconds features to their basic calibres, and hacking remains scarcer still in wristwatch tourbillons, appearing with regularity only in the last two decades. But building for the waistcoat pocket, historical watchmakers have been stopping tourbillons for almost as long as they’ve been building them, and developed a number of solutions for this problem along the way, each stopping the tourbillon, or merely the seconds, in a different way. Breguet – stopping the seconds without stopping the watch Almost 225 years ago to the year, the French Ministry of the Interior granted Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon, a clever way to improve a watch’s marks during accuracy testing. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions, the “balance complete” — comprised of the balance, staff, roller, collet and balance spring — mu...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese
One of the splashiest Geneva Watch Days releases this year was the all new M.A.D.3, the latest entry in the ongoing series from M.A.D.Editions, the popular MB&F; spinoff. You’re probably pretty familiar with the M.A.D. project at this point, but just in case you’re stumbling onto it here for the first time, a brief primer. Coming from many of the same people behind MB&F;, M.A.D.Editions was originally conceived as a way for brand founder Max Busser to thank his many longtime collaborators with an affordable watch that kept to the same avant-garde spirit of the high end luxury watches MB&F; has been making for years. That first watch was, apparently, not intended to ever be made widely available, a story that is perhaps apocryphal given the incredible success of the project across several release cycles. M.A.D.Editions is now a full fledged microbrand, with watches made available via highly competitive raffles on a regular basis. The brand has pledged to keep their watches affordable, relatively speaking, even as the overall quality of the pieces has been leveled up since the first watches appeared (they have moved to Swiss movements, and the finishing is noticeably nicer on newer watches, including the M.A.D.2 introduced last year). The new M.A.D.3 leans deeper into an idea we saw with the M.A.D.2, which is to make these watches a genuine collaboration with a friend of the brand. That watch was designed by Eric Giroud, a longtime MB&F; collaborator and one of the more ...
Hodinkee
Here Are The Finalists for the 2026 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève
Last week, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced the finalists for the 2026 edition of watchmaking's premier awards ceremony, which will be held in Geneva on November 7. Being a finalist has the potential to be a big deal for any participating brand, but it can be a watershed moment for small first-timers (of which there are a couple this year). It's also a list I've been waiting for with some anxiety. The winners of the 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Photo courtesy GPHG. This year, I'm lucky to be on the jury with 23 other journalists, collectors, and watchmaking industry members, including the jury's first-time president, Wei Koh. Among them are many talented friends and people whom I've gotten to know over my years in the industry, including Michael Tay (Group Managing Director of The Hour Glass in Singapore), Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi (CEO of Dubai Watch Week), the talented watchmaker Rémy Cools and incredible automaton maker François Junod, my friend Justin Hast, artist Wes Lang, and a few others. Without going on too long or being too saccharine about the whole thing, it really is quite cool to be on the jury with such smart and talented members. Nothing is without flaws, and like I'll get to in a moment, there are a lot of brands not competing that I would love to see in the mix. But one of the things that I think about a lot (and which goes unmentioned far too often) is the number of people putting their heart, soul, and tremendous a...
Hodinkee
Dispatch: From The World's Factory To A Watchmaking Culture: What I Saw At Shenzhen Watch Week
Shenzhen Watch Week is China's premier annual event dedicated to the watch industry. More than just a trade show, it brings together established brands, independent watchmakers, suppliers, and manufacturers, offering perhaps the clearest snapshot of where Chinese watchmaking stands today. For anyone interested in understanding the industry beyond its reputation as "the world's factory," there are few better places to start. There are surprisingly few opportunities anywhere in the world to experience so many Chinese watch brands under one roof. Switzerland has Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days, while Japan hosts brand presentations, watch fairs, and events such as Tokyo Watch Week. But an exhibition devoted almost entirely to Chinese watchmaking is something quite different. In recent years, brands such as Behrens, CIGA Design, and Fam al Hut have begun attracting international attention, winning prestigious awards, and demonstrating that China is capable of far more than manufacturing for others. Yet outside China, it remains virtually impossible to see these brands together or experience their watches firsthand. That is why, when I received an invitation to attend Shenzhen Watch Week, I wanted to see for myself what is happening in Chinese watchmaking today. Watches made in China are, of course, nothing unusual. Many of the world's leading brands—including Swiss manufacturers—rely on Chinese suppliers for cases, dials, bracelets, hands, movement components, an...
Hodinkee
Business News: Breitling's House Of Brands Joins Watches And Wonders For 2027 As Dates Unveiled
One of the largest watch group holdouts is heading to Watches and Wonders in 2027 as Breitling's House of Brands will join the world's premier luxury watch fair for the first time. Scheduled to take place April 5 to 11 in Geneva at Palexpo, with supplementary programs and exhibitions including the In The City events that debuted at the most recent edition, brands including Breitling, Gallet, Universal Genève and Italy's Damiani will exhibit alongside founding partners Rolex, Patek Philippe and Richemont brands, among others, according to a statement from the non-profit Watches and Wonders Foundation. The inclusion of the House of Brands group marks a significant addition for Watches and Wonders, underscoring its position as the most important annual gathering of Swiss and international luxury watchmakers, retailers, media, and the public each spring. The announcement follows news that Basel will return to the watch fair schedule with a new watch and jewelry show called Basilia that will follow during the same month, and leaves Swatch Group as the only major Swiss watchmaking conglomerate not participating in Watches and Wonders. "The arrival of these new names represents an important milestone in the evolution of Watches and Wonders Geneva, and reflects the desire of major watchmaking Maisons to unite around a shared vision," Watches and Wonders organizers said in a prepared statement. A record 65 brands participated in the event in 2026, including, for the first time...
Monochrome
Video - Czapek, “An Unexpected Renaissance”
For once, we are not going to talk about the launch of a new watch. Instead, we are going to talk about the premiere of a film – and a rather unique one at that. Czapek, An Unexpected Renaissance is something rarely seen in the watch industry: a 50-minute documentary filmed from the inside, retracing […]
Hodinkee
Business News: The Importance Of Being Cartier
Among top-level, mainstream Swiss-made watch brands, few can match Cartier's performance over the last half-decade. The Paris-based jewelry marque has vaulted ever higher to become the second biggest watch brand by sales, according to analyst estimates from both Vontobel and Morgan Stanley. While the jewelry unit of Cartier remains its primary driver, analysts say estimated sales from the watch division grew about 10% in 2025 to exceed CHF 3 billion, up from less than CHF 2 billion in 2019. What's perhaps more notable is the performance of Cartier's watch division relative to the broader market. As most brands have surfed the undulating wave of the post-COVID boom, followed by a downturn in demand, Cartier's watch unit has outpaced the market while remaining relatively affordable and accessible, with prices averaging about CHF 6,000 per watch and implementing lower price increases than most competitors, according to analysts. That has allowed Cartier to consolidate its position as one of just a handful of high-volume, long-established, and approachable-priced brands that are top choices on mainstream watch consumers' want lists, particularly among younger buyers. Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir with oversized "XII". At the same time, Cartier has also grown in standing among watch enthusiasts and collectors, with prices for models on the secondary market gaining 8.6% in a year, according to WatchCharts.com's Cartier index. Auction results for vintage pieces have performe...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 - Live Pics)
It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record. That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...
Monochrome
First Look - The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials
Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]