Hodinkee
Hands-On: The H. Moser Heritage Tourbillon Funky Blue
A rare double balance spring tourbillon, in very eye-catching livery.
Results for Free-Sprung Balance
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Rado’s off-centre DiaMaster proves that life isn’t always balanced
If you’re looking for a watch that’s a little left-of-centre style-wise, look no further. Rado’s idiosyncratic DiaMaster takes many of the conventions of fine watchmaking and turns them, if not on their heads, at least a little bit sideways. And the resulting watch is, it must be said, quite charming. Of course, there are still … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Rado’s off-centre DiaMaster proves that life isn’t always balanced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
How a Tourbillon Works
With a little help from Jaeger-LeCoultre, we uncover the workings of the tourbillon. The purpose of Breguet’s inspired creation was to combat the poise errors found in the balance, balance spring and escapement in vertical positions by rotating these timekeeping elements. (For more on the tourbillon and its history, read “A Brief History of […]
SJX Watches
Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59
Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition doesn’t just chime the current time, it chimes the best time (12:59) to show off its Westminster Carillon of four hammers chiming on four gongs. The watch combines the clever chiming complication with a clever chronometric innovation: a pair of sprung balances connected by an elastic “resonance clutch spring”, one of the brand’s signature invention. And all of that somehow squeezed into a water-resistant, 42 mm case that is slimmer than most chronographs. Initial thoughts Armin Strom’s repeater probably deserves an award for the brand’s most improved product. Its predecessor was 47.7 mm in diameter and 16.1 mm tall, while this is a wearable 42 mm and only 11.7 mm thick. That makes it slimmer than a Rolex Daytona — though most of the height is borne by the mid-case, making the watch look thicker than it is. It’s also somehow more water resistant, up to 50 m from an already solid 30 m, yet it costs just 2% more at the current retail price. That is before mentioning the Westminster Carillon, demonstration-chiming mode, and the more attractive design. The “demonstration mode”, which allows the watch to chime 12:59 on demand regardless of the current time, is well executed and suits the job of the repeater in the 21st century, which goes beyond simply telling time in the dark. Furthermore, the sound is good — pleasant and audible — but wristwatch minute repeaters have improved dramatically in ...
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - A Comprehensive Guide to Chronometer Certifications and In-House Quality Seals
Watchmakers have chased precision since the dawn of portable timekeeping in the 16th century, but it wasn’t until the late 17th century that watches became accurate enough to support minute hands. A single hour hand was the norm for over a century, as accuracy was off by hours per day, but thanks to the balance […]
Video
The Movement inside this $1K Chronograph Changes Everything
The new Nezumi Voiture has a very interesting movement I've never heard of. So we asked for a pre-production unit to look at closer.
SJX Watches
Hands On: MB&F; LM1 EVO
The MB&F; LM1 EVO brings back the original Legacy Machine (LM) in a smaller, sportier case, with improved shock protection, water resistance and a revised movement. Fifteen years after the LM1 established the LM collection, the EVO preserves its distinctive dual-time layout and suspended balance while making it more suited to the demands of daily wear. Initial thoughts I still remember seeing the LM1 for the first time when it launched in 2011. Up to that point, MB&F; had spent six years developing its identity around the futuristic Horological Machine (HM) collection, and the brand’s original take on traditional watchmaking came as a surprise. The LM1 established what is now the Legacy Machine collection, which began as a thought experiment about what kind of watch founder Max Büsser might have designed had he been born a century earlier. The original LM becomes the fifth MB&F; platform to get the EVO treatment, after the LM Split Escapement, LM 101, LM Perpetual, and LM Sequential (in both regular and flyback configurations). It follows the same script as its predecessors, with a polished titanium (or 18k rose gold) case, proprietary rubber strap, and the brand’s patented FlexRing shock absorber, which helps take the edge off severe impacts. The EVO case is also water resistant to 80 m thanks in part to twin screw-down crowns. Of course, it’s a manually wound movement, which means the threads will se a lot of action assuming the watch is worn regularly. Fortunately, ...
Time+Tide
New releases from FP Journe, Jacob & Co, Delma and more
This week brings some wildcards to the selection. In the dust that settled after Geneva Watch Days, François-Paul Journe announced a unique piece created with Prince Albert II of Monaco, to be auctioned for charity; Jacob & Co. gives new meaning to “gem-set” with a diamond-encrusted balance wheel; and Delma steps away from its usual … Continued
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...
WatchRider
Timex Celestial Opulence Automatic TW2T86300 Review: Beautiful Design, but Mind the Scratches
When shopping for a women’s automatic watch, finding something that steps outside of traditional designs without becoming overly complicated can be a challenge. The Timex Celestial Opulence Automatic (TW2T86300) is a watch that attempts to strike that balance. It draws inspiration from the night sky and pairs it with a traditional mechanical movement. However, as many owners quickly discover, its eye-catching design comes with a practical drawback that you should be aware of before making it your daily timepiece. The Appeal of the Celestial Opulence Design Let’s talk about the best part of the Timex TW2T86300: the way it looks. I am really drawn to the design of this watch, specifically the combination of black and gold. The watch features a gold-tone stainless steel case paired with a deep black dial. It’s a classic color combination that works with almost everything in my wardrobe. Whether I’m just wearing jeans and a t-shirt or dressing up a little bit for an evening out, the black and gold colorway manages to fit right in. It looks rich and warm, but the black keeps it grounded so it doesn’t look cheap or overly bright. The dial is where the “Celestial” name comes into play. It has a night sky theme, featuring small stars and Swarovski crystals acting as the hour markers. I usually don’t like crystals on watches because they can look tacky, but here they are small enough that they just look like distant stars catching the light. Another cool detail ...
Fratello
An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art
There is no shame in admitting you’ve never heard of something. You know the tourbillon is a little mechanical anti-gravity device, so to speak. The cônillon, however, is very rare. It is a tourbillon regulator with a tilted balance that follows a conical path rather than a conventional flat plane. The concept traces back to […] Visit An Ultra-Rare Complication Featuring Delicate Hand-Made Decorations: The ArtyA Genève Complexity Métiers d’Art to read the full article.
Video
Why The Rolex 5512 Is Always A Classic Watch
If Eric Wind had to choose one watch, his Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 would be a serious contender. His example is a four-line, meters-first watch with the rare dial variation collectors call 'Neat Fonts.' It is t...
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC.2-1
Following the resurrection of the name Ferdinand Berthoud by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 2015, with the introduction of the Chronomètre FB1, a superb tourbillon watch with fusée-and-chain device, followed by the no less spectacular Chronomètre FB2, the brand presented another award-winning watch, a superb wrist chronometer with cylindrical balance-spring named the Chronomètre FB 3SPC – […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Greubel Forsey Re-Launches Its Icon Iith The New 'Balancier QM'
What We Know Less than a year ago, Greubel Forsey discontinued the most emblematic pillar of its particularly well-finished watchmaking, the Balancier Contemporain. The Balancier is dead. Long live the Balancier. The new Balancier QM, that is. Very much grown out of the lessons, successes, and even the architecture of the Balancier Contemporain, the Balancier QM is the first to carry the brand's new Qualité Musée standard. While it looks somewhat different, with a floating balance cock and rearranged location of the power reserve, the Balancier QM is a familiar watch to anyone who has seen a GF before. That's because the movement borrows much of its architecture from the old Balancier Contemporain, as well as its identical sizing (39.6mm by 12.25mm for both models), now in white gold. What the Balancier QM is instead is more of a codification of a new Qualité Musée (QM) certification for this and future GF watches. Like the Patek seal, Qualité Fleurier, Breguet Hallmark, and other in-house standards (all three of which have also just added chronometric certification not found here), this guarantees a certain—particularly extreme—level of hand-finishing quality. Finishing has been one of the key raisons d'être for GF since its founding. There's been an "if you know, you know" quality to the brand that signaled that, included in their extreme pricing, you get extreme finishing from the brand. That was a novelty in the past, but now it's a "must" for any high-en...
SJX Watches
Mixed Materials: Girard-Perregaux’s Two-Tone Laureato Chronograph
Girard-Perregaux (GP) has expanded the Laureato Chronograph collection with an on-trend two-tone model with a brown dial. For fans of the Laureato — or 1970s-inspired sports watches in general — the new steel-and-rose gold reference strikes a balance between casual and luxurious. While not a limited edition, GP intends to start production with a small run of just 50 pieces. Initial thoughts Earth-tone dials seem to be having a moment. As more watch brands continue to explore brown dials and earth tones, GP has jumped in with its own interpretation. Brown can be a difficult colour to pull off, but the glittering hobnail texture of the Laureato’s dial lends this casual colour a degree of luxury and keeps it from looking dull. The new two-tone variant features the same dimensions as its stablemates, with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.16 mm. But at a time when watches seem to be getting smaller, the 42 mm size feels larger than ever. Of course, size has its perks — the large dial opening reveals a richly detailed dial, and the 18k rose gold bezel has plenty of personality at this scale. For those who find the size intimidating on paper, the integrated rubber strap should remove much of the perceived bulk on the wrist. Rubber hasn’t always been considered a luxury material, but today it’s an industry staple, and an appealing alternative to the weight of steel or precious metal. The everyday luxury chronograph The Laureato Chronograph is fundamentally a ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Watches To Take On Vacation: 8 Picks From Years of Reviews
Looking for the best watches to take on vacation? These travel-friendly picks balance durability, comfort, and versatility for a wide range of trips. The post Best Watches To Take On Vacation: 8 Picks From Years of Reviews appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.
SJX Watches
Anton Suhanov Returns with the Flamingo
Russian independent watchmaker and ACHI member Anton Suhanov returns with his third wristwatch, the dynamic Flamingo. Featuring Mr Suhanov’s first in-house movement, the Flamingo positions its massive balance wheel dial-side, and has a few other tricks up its sleeve as well. Initial thoughts Anton Suhanov made a name for himself for his inventive clocks, but more recently has turned his attention toward the more lucrative wristwatch market. Mr Suhanov’s first two wristwatches were modular constructions piggybacked on stock movements. Despite this common approach, his modifications were transformative, making his movements feel more personal and “in-house” than some truly in-house movements that are more traditional in concept. This evident commitment to the craft quickly gained Mr Suhanov a good reputation. After about four years of development, Mr Suhanov has unveiled a calibre he can truly call his own, the cal. Su26.1L. He built the movement from scratch, which gave him complete freedom both in terms of design and functionality. The result is a movement that possesses a number of unique and charming traits, both technical and aesthetic in nature. While the design of the Flamingo as a whole is deeply original (especially the use of non-functional ruby pallets for the hands), some elements on the dial side remind me of similar features of Greubel Forsey’s watches. For example, the two small sub-dials - a 24-hour indicator and small seconds - are rem...
Video
New Hamilton American Classic Cushion | Hands On Review
If you're looking for a watch that feels like it could be 100 years old and is priced at around US$1,000, then the new Hamilton American Classic Cushion collection, comprised of 6 new models and two sizes, is likely t...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Dominique Renaud Slows Things Down With The 1Hz 'Pulse60'
The watch features a massive balance running at an unusual 1Hz, an unusual escapement design, and a surprisingly approachable price for an independent release.
Teddy Baldassarre
Credor Eichi II Review: High-End Minimalist Elegance from Japan
You’ve heard of Seiko. By now, you’ve heard of Grand Seiko. But Credor, for many enthusiasts outside of Japan, remains mostly a mystery, despite its connection to both. But for those who are aware of Credor, it represents a Holy Grail of high-horological craftsmanship worthy of its venerated designation as “Japan’s Patek Philippe,” and perhaps no single timepiece represents its signature balance of technical complexity and sublime simplicity of design than the Credor Eichi II. [toc-section heading="Credor History"] The legend of Credor began in 1974, when it was launched as a luxury offshoot of parent brand Seiko, initially to produce exclusively precious-metal watches. The name, which became official in the 1980s, is a Japanified version of the French phrase "Crêt D'or," which translates as “pinnacle of gold.” This lofty claim is visualized in the now-iconic triple-peaked logo capped by three stars. Throughout the ‘90s, Credor watches (like Grand Seiko watches, before that sub-brand’s emergence as a separate, independent brand in 2017), were co-branded, with both the Credor and Seiko logos on their dials. Also like Grand Seiko (the first of which was made way back in 1960), Credor products were sold only exclusively in Japan. In the early 2000s, well ahead of Grand Seiko’s more famous coming-out party, Credor became a standalone brand, hosting all of the Japanese watchmaking giant’s forays into haute horlogerie as well as some very impressive hi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Pockets of Value In Watches in 2026
When we hear the phrase 'value for money' in watches, many often reduce it to spending as little as possible. This, however, is not the way we look at it, as value can be found at several price points, and in our mind, it's more a balance between price and diminishing returns. So, what we are going to look at in this v
SJX Watches
Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings
De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Zelos Comet 39 ‘MOP’
Singaporean independent brand Zelos is known for their colorful and texture-forward dials that strike a nice balance between affordability and unique design. Each new creation seems to drive their overall image forward in eclectic ways that keep the brand from fitting too rigidly into any one box. While Zelos is often associated with their sub $1,000 tool watches, they have made spectacular forays into the space of haute complications and uncommon materials in recent years. Their release of the Mirage in 2020, a watch that featured a tourbillon at a competitive $11,000 pricepoint, and their work using tantalum as a case material, is proof that the brand is committed to stretching the imagination regarding what a microbrand is capable of. Their newest release, the Comet 39, joins the ranks of the recent trend of stone dials we’ve seen permeating the hobby in the past few years. Since the trend is fairly new, my experience with stone dials is limited, and I was looking forward to getting hands-on with this piece. I was lucky to be able to pick up this review watch in-person at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City a few weeks ago while I was visiting. Complementary sizing by David Lane Design at Windup allowed me to wear the watch around the city during my trip and get a sense for how it moved with me during high-volume days. The Mother of Pearl (MOP) edition is one in a series of three Comet watches in the brand’s new Comet 39 line, all of which are crafted with vari...
Video
YOUR Watch Collections... Here's What I REALLY Think!
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic
Somewhere, in a drawer lined with yellowed graph paper and sharpened No. 2 pencils, there’s a circular slide rule waiting to be understood. It belonged to a grandfather who spent his life chasing the elegance of equations-someone who could balance a checkbook in his head and chart a rocket’s trajectory on a napkin. For the person who inherited that drawer-and the curiosity that came with it-the new Xeric Omnigraph Automatic feels less like a watch and more like a reunion. Before computers, before calculators, before “Hey Siri, what’s 38 times 72?”-there was the circular slide rule. It wasn’t just a tool; it was a visualization of thought, an instrument for those who found beauty in precision. Xeric’s Omnigraph takes that analog intelligence and transforms it into a timepiece where mathematics itself becomes the design language. The post A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Introducing - Elka Watch Co. Celebrates Black and White with Its Latest S Series Monochrome Editions
At MONOCHROME, we have a soft spot for… well, monochrome. The balance of light and shadow on a dial, the quiet elegance of a perfect photograph… something about removing colour to reveal form, texture, and contrast that we find so immensely appealing. So when we learned that Elka Watch Co., the young Swiss brand known […]
SJX Watches
Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years
Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebration continues with the Defy Zero G, a sapphire-cased watch equipped with the brand’s latest generation, gimbal-like “Gravity Control” escapement module. Available in either clear or deep blue sapphire – both with a lapis lazuli dial – the 46 mm anniversary model is a literal showcase for the innovative cal. 8812 S, which features a gimballed escapement platform that keeps the balance wheel in a horizontal position at all times. Originally developed in 2008 and refined in 2018, the Zero G mechanism is a modern homage to Zenith’s legacy in competitive chronometry and marine navigation. Initial thoughts Today, the Zenith brand is synonymous with the El Primero chronograph movement, launched back in 1969. But outside of that, the manufacture has always been a major force in Swiss precision watchmaking. For decades the brand regularly took home the top prizes at chronometry trials from Neuchâtel and Teddington. Zenith already paid tribute to its past success in competitive chronometry with the G.F.J. cal. 135, which also features a lapis lazuli dial, but it’s reassuring to see the brand made time to bring out one of its more recent developments for its anniversary year. While the days of chronometry trials are long past, Zenith has still managed to make a name for itself when it comes to the accuracy of wrist-worn timepieces - at least theoretically. Back in 2008 the brand unveiled a curious mechanism, with the escapement fu...
Worn & Wound
Nomos Expands their Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Collection with Three New Limited Editions
I like to think I have a good balance in my life. While I live in a very rural part of the U.S., I’m equally able to spend time in cities around the world thanks to my work. Because of this, I appreciate the late nights in unfamiliar places all the more – at home, I’m in bed by 10:00 PM most nights with my three elderly dogs. It’s this, then, that attracts me so much to the new colorways of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtime with its Night Navigation Series: Grid, Trace, and Vector. These three references are designed to highlight the bit of thrill and adventure of entering a new city and navigating by the neon signs, storefront windows, and flashing crosswalks. While longtime readers will know we’ve featured the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, it still remains a favorite for those looking for a watch that can balance its sporty design with the elegance that Nomos Glashütte excels at. This is due, in part, to the proportionality of the watch itself. Clocking in at a not-too-big-not-too-small Goldilocks-sized 40mm, it feels all the more slighter with its 9.9mm thickness. In fact, it’s the thinnest watch of its kind, making it just another reason to highlight the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer among its competitors. As mentioned, three new references have been released with this series. Trace pairs black and turquoise; Grid in amber; and Vector in olive and ecru. While each is defined by its relation to traveling at night, it works just as well as a daily watch...
Worn & Wound
Longines Makes Some Significant Updates to the Spirit Collection with a Pair of New Releases
Longines has announced a pair of new watches in their Spirit collection today, and taken together it feels like a fairly significant shift and update for the five year old line. When the Spirit watches launched in 2020, it represented Longines making an attempt to develop watches that put more of a balance on contemporary vs. vintage inspired divide, having spent years carving out a niche as one of the most tasteful reinterpreters of their own back catalog. The Spirit watches were an entirely new invention but still leaned into the brand’s natural heritage appeal, and impressed from the start with excellent finishing and build quality. As the collection expanded over the years, it’s grown full of under the radar sleepers, but a handful of little issues are always mentioned by admittedly picky enthusiasts when new products drop. At least some of those seem to have been addressed between these new releases, updated versions of the Spirit Pilot and Spirit Pilot Flyback. We’ll look at the Spirit Pilot Flyback first, as it’s a genuinely surprising and unexpected evolution of an ambitious watch that Longines debuted just two years ago. Longines has a long history with chronographs, and flyback chronographs specifically, so the introduction of a new flyback chrono at a competitive price point (at launch it came in under $5,000 in steel) was a big deal. Unfortunately, the case was just enormous, coming in at 42mm in diameter and around 17mm tall. The case height, in part...
Video
Panerai Luminor… More IMPRESSIVE Than You Think?!
At the time of recording, the exchange rate was 1 GBP = 1.33 USD. Please note that exchange rates fluctuate, so the conversion may differ when you view this video. Always check current exchange rates for the most accu...