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Results for The COMEX Submariner Story

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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future – Reprise Quill & Pad
RGM Nov 15, 2020

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future – Reprise

When brands look to the past to find the absolute best details to combine into a killer timepiece, the result can be a terrific diver, a classy chronograph, or, in the case of American watchmaking company RGM, a fantastic pocket watch-inspired, enamel-dialed wristwatch like the Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel. Joshua Munchow feels this watch stands apart as a culmination of the brand's ideology.

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Piaget  Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction XI SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mr Newson has long Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction XI

With the Geneva watch auctions having just concluded – and notching up a US$1.51 million record for a Philippe Dufour Simplicity – it’s now Hong Kong’s turn. Taking place at end November, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI includes a compact selection of independent watchmaking, most of which are notably affordable. Here’s a look at a few highlights, including the prototype of the sold-out S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin that will be sold to benefit charity. The auction happens on November 29  at the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 801 – Marc Newson Hour Glass Perhaps the quintessential timekeeper designed by Marc Newson, the Hour Glass is a timekeeper filled with nanoballs”, tiny steel spheres that are coated in gold – specifically, a little under 1.25 million of them. An industrial design known for his Lockheed Lounge and the work for brands like Qantas and Louis Vuitton, Mr Newson has long dabbled in designing watches and clocks. The Hour Glass was unveiled in 2010 by Ikepod, the watch brand cofounded by Mr Newson that later went bust. It’s a single piece of glass that’s formed by hand with a blowtorch, a rigorous process that requires skill and finesse, which explains the price despite its simplicity. This Hour Glass is the smallest version in the line up, standing 15 cm high, making it a convenient object for the desk. It’s a 10-minute timer; the medium and large versions are 3...

“I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense Time+Tide
Patek Philippe curiously not making … Nov 12, 2020

“I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense

As with any awards show, there can be a discrepancy between which watches fans think should have won and the watches that actually win. And it has to be said that the divide between popular and GPHG opinion is something of a canyon these days, with mega-brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe curiously not making … ContinuedThe post “I spat out my drink” – Zach’s honest reactions to 3 GPHG 2020 winners that make no sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review with Watchscapes: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph ... Nov 11, 2020

Review with Watchscapes: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph

We get hands-on with the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, introduced in Watches & Wonders Digital Edition in earlier this year. The watch is already in the boutiques and available for sale. Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph In this novelty, Vacheron Constantin unites two coveted technical complications under the Traditionelle banner: the monopusher chronograph,Read More

Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Iconaut “weird” Nov 11, 2020

Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it?

Editor’s note: Ask most watch enthusiasts what Tudor’s first GMT wristwatch was and they’ll tell you it’s the perpetually popular Black Bay GMT aka “The Diet Pepsi”. And that, my friends, is the wrong answer. Tudor’s first timepiece equipped with a GMT complication was actually a model called the Iconaut. A chunky, bulbous-looking thing, this … ContinuedThe post Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Deployant
Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori Nov 10, 2020

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

As the year of the 160th anniversary of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, draws to a close, Grand Seiko  proudly celebrates his life and achievements with a Spring Drive masterpiece. The watch is powered by Caliber 9R02 and features a Platinum 950 case with indexes and hour and minute hands in 14K white gold. A secondRead More

WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch Time+Tide
Nov 10, 2020

WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch

Anyone who knows anything about watches knows that watchmaking is hard. And anyone who knows anything about watchmaking knows that the bar set by George Daniels is extremely high. But despite these daunting challenges, there is a young watchmaker in Canberra, Australia, who is making a complete tourbillon pocket watch according to the George Daniels … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @reubenschoots, an Australian independent watchmaker building a George Daniels Tourbillon pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2020

Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value?

Last night saw the Phillips’ and Blackbird thematic auction Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 play out, with some truly incredible watches reaching truly incredible prices. Two that I wanted to focus on were a pair of watches that are at the same time very similar and very different. Both are handmade. Both are three-handed dress watches … ContinuedThe post Phillips auction battle of Swiss vs. Japanese handmade haute horology – which is better value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m SJX Watches
Nov 8, 2020

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m

The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph Quill & Pad
Nov 7, 2020

Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda: Relatively Affordable, Eminently Wearable, In-House Monopusher Chronograph

At only 38.5 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height, the Habring2 Chrono-Felix Panda is almost as svelte as its time-only sibling Felix, and the absence of a customary second pusher for the chronograph’s reset function makes it look much lighter than a two-pusher chronograph. Elizabeth Doerr fell in love with this test watch and was sad to send it back after the review; find out why here.

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Nov 7, 2020

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Azzurro Power Control

This spring, Chopard will proudly reprise its role as main sponsor and official timekeeper of Italy’s world famous Mille Miglia classic car rally, a position it has held continuously since 1988. Each year, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has demonstrated his passion for automobiles by competing in the gruelling, 1,000-mile contest that runs from Brescia to Rome and back – and each year the Maison produces a new Mille Miglia watch collection to celebrate what is regularly described as 'the most beautiful race in the world'.

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tudor Nov 7, 2020

Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more

I’m not alone in considering the Rolex Explorer one of the best examples of clean, sharp, monochromatic watches out there. But it’s fair to ask – for any of a host of very fair reasons – what are the best Rolex Explorer alternatives if you can’t get a direct path to the Crown? It’s not … ContinuedThe post Cut costs, not quality: 5 superb Rolex Explorer alternatives, including Grand Seiko, Tudor and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Richemont Six-Month Watch Sales Plunge 38% SJX Watches
Cartier Nov 7, 2020

Business News: Richemont Six-Month Watch Sales Plunge 38%

Richemont just reported its sales for the first half of the financial year – the six months to end September 2020 – and most of the numbers are in the red. The Swiss luxury group that owns Cartier and IWC saw sales fall 26% year on year, though the quarterly numbers show a gradual recovery. Sales were down by 47% in the first quarter but recovered enough to dip just 6% in the second quarter, owing to a gradual reopening of the economy. This no doubt inspired optimism amongst investors, who sent the group’s share price up almost 9% by the close of trading. Optimism notwithstanding, the declines extended to all performance metrics. Operating margin fell sharply to just 8.3%, almost half that for the same period in 2019. The falls in sales and margins collectively led to stark, 82% fall in operating profit. Net profit cratered, going from €869m in the first half of 2019 to just €159m. Beyond the negative numbers, the report was also notable for what it did not include. With rumours swirling about changes to Richemont management at the very top level – particularly about the tenure of chief executive Jerome Lambert – it was widely speculated the results announcement would include personnel changes, but nothing was forthcoming. Woe for watches and everywhere but Asia The global pandemic meant a global fall in sales, but with drops varying from region to region. As expected, Asia Pacific performed the best, with sales falling just 4%. Negative growth in the fir...

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Nov 6, 2020

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Taking place over two days – Friday, November 6 and Saturday, November 7 – The Geneva Watch Auction: XII at Phillips is the first sale of the fall auction season. A compact sale of under 180 lots, the auction comprises a diverse line up, ranging from the obviously notable – like a Cartier Crash in platinum and a unique Patek Philippe ref. 5020P – to the obscure but extremely interesting, like the postwar A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch made after the company had been nationalised by the Soviets, as well as a vintage Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar with a paradoxical brand-new but factory-original case. Here’s a look at handful of standouts from the sale. You’ll find the full catalogue, as well as online bidding, right here. Lot 31 – Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator ref. 5235G Unlike many of the other watches in the auction, the ref. 5235G is neither rare nor complicated, or even especially valuable. But it is an under-appreciated gem in Patek Philippe’s line up. Lightly designed and full of unusual details – ranging from the brushed dial finish to the engraved logo at three – the ref. 5235 also boasts a distinctively-designed movement unique to this reference and found in no other model. This example of the ref. 5235 is in white gold, which was discontinued last year and replaced by the same in rose gold with a black dial. While the new version is far more striking, the almost monochromatic white gold version is deeply appealing in its simplici...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5970. And Nov 5, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’

Taking place this weekend as a live auction with only cameras, telephones, and online bidding, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is a thematic sale that happens the day after Phillips’ Geneva watch auction. The second sale curated with Blackbird, both the publisher of a watch magazine as well as the agent for Ferrari in Hong Kong, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is self explanatory: contemporary wristwatches produced in the past 20 years. The 95 lots that make up the sale are a selection of the important, interesting, and intriguing from the last two decades, including obvious candidates like the Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe ref. 5970. And the sale also includes notable watches that usually go under the radar, like the Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots (which is possibly the most accurate Swiss-made mechanical watch of the 21st century). The Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 (lot 258) Importantly, the line up also encompasses a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, reflecting the rise of these niche watchmakers. Here’s a roundup of highlights from independent watchmakers, which include the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary and the ultra-rare Opus Eleven. The selection includes the worthy Seiko Credor Eichi II and Lange 1 25th Anniversary. Neither comes from an independent watchmaker, but both are as close as it gets for establishment brands. Lot 206 – Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary No. 00/20 Philippe Dufour...