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Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Feb 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really?  Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points.  My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...

Hands-On: the TUUL Filthy 13 Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Bulova A-11 Feb 10, 2025

Hands-On: the TUUL Filthy 13

It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon.  The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche.  I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...

Introducing – The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary Monochrome
Citizen as incontestable powerhouses However Feb 4, 2025

Introducing – The Orient Bambino Flaunts New Dial Colours and Limited Editions for its 75th Anniversary

If you ask about affordable Japanese mechanical watches, most people will cite Seiko and Citizen as incontestable powerhouses. However, Orient, another Japanese watch brand owned by the Seiko Epson Corporation, is a force to contend with when it comes to value for money. Founded in 1950, Orient is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year with […]

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches Fratello
Alpina Watches Alpina has been Feb 4, 2025

Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches

Alpina has been on a roll lately. The Swiss watchmaker has been busy updating its collection with some great new models. While most of you will probably know the brand’s sports pieces, we have also seen some great watches inspired by its past, which goes back more than a century. Indeed, Alpina is a brand […] Visit Putting The Spotlight On The Best Modern Alpina Watches to read the full article.

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Monochrome
Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase Feb 4, 2025

First Look – The new Piaget Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase

Piaget’s luxury sports watch, the Polo, is inspired by the brand’s iconic solid gold 1979 Polo quartz model with horizontal gadroons running across the dial and the integrated bracelet. Revamped from head to toe in 2016 in steel with mechanical movements, the Polo family is represented by complications small and large, from time and date […]

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan Launched Jan 31, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Blue Dial IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Monochrome
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Let’s Jan 29, 2025

Video Review – A Closer Look at the Blue Dial IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

Let’s get up close and personal… We have already explored the revamped IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in detail when it was launched in 2023, the same year that the Schaffhausen-based brand decided to give this long-lasting collection its 1976 Genta-inspired design back. More recently, what is now a strong contender in the luxury sports watch […]

Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Jan 27, 2025

Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel

It predates the Nautilus, Ingenieur, and Overseas and debuted three years after the Royal Oak. So why is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a very relevant 1970s timepiece, not on the same appreciation level as the other luxurious sports watches with an integrated bracelet? It’s not just the Genta name missing because the 222, the predecessor of […] Visit Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 Worn & Wound
Jan 24, 2025

Hands-On: the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2

Earlier this month when Kat Shoulders and I were discussing the concept of the “gateway watch” on the Worn & Wound podcast, the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 was sitting just out of reach on my desk. I didn’t mention the newest iteration of the Sea Ranger concept in our discussion, but I very easily could have. This is a rock solid sports watch made by a micro-brand that has proven to be foundational in the space over the years, with just a little bit more than meets the eye when it comes to the finer details. Those details are the kinds of things that make a watch buyer a watch enthusiast, and there’s no doubt about it, Astor+Banks is an enthusiast focused brand. Still, the Sea Ranger M2 strikes me as the type of watch that, if it existed ten years ago, would be an easy recommendation for someone just starting out.  The Sea Ranger M2 is positioned as a do-it-all adventure and tool watch, with a litany of impressive specs: 300 meters of water resistance, soft iron plates shielding the movement from magnetism, a pair of screw down crowns, a quick-adjust clasp (more on that later) and a La Joux-Perret movement with a 68 hour power reserve. These, for the most part, are calling cards of the modern tool watch, a baseline for what a brand has to do in order to claim their watch is a true go-anywhere-do-anything kind of timepiece. The micro-brand space is saturated (perhaps oversaturated) with watches in this genre, so it takes some work to stand out from the crowd. I don...

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Expands Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video)

The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial SJX Watches
TAG Heuer s Stand-Out Carrera Gains Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer’s Stand-Out Carrera Gains a Speedometer-Style Dial

Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds. Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock. Initial thoughts The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement. Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships - they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz - this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season. Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%. While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “...

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

Introducing – Girard-Perragaux Has Discreetly Released a Stunning Ice Blue Laureato Chronograph Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato one Jan 16, 2025

Introducing – Girard-Perragaux Has Discreetly Released a Stunning Ice Blue Laureato Chronograph

As we explained in this article about the upcoming anniversaries that the watch industry will celebrate this year, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, one of the first watches in the luxury sports watch category, was launched in 1975 and will celebrate 50 years of existence. Since its return in 2016-17, the Laureato has become a complete collection […]

Introducing – New Editions of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm and 42mm Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm Jan 15, 2025

Introducing – New Editions of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm and 42mm

Maurice Lacroix has long been known for its take on accessible luxury, offering nice horological content at decent prices. Back in 2018, ML presented the Aikon Automatic collection, a wide range of models that answered the growing demand for elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets – by using the 1990s Calypso design and remodelling it, […]

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 15, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials:  the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is Finally here in Stainless Steel (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 is Finally here in Stainless Steel (Incl. Video)

First presented for the 222nd anniversary of the venerable watchmaker Vacheron Constantin, the 222 was the brand’s answer to the then-growing demand for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. The third member of the iconic Holy Trinity of luxury sports watches, next to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, all three sharing the same base […]

IWC Releases a Titanium Mark XX in Petronas Colors Worn & Wound
IWC Releases Jan 8, 2025

IWC Releases a Titanium Mark XX in Petronas Colors

IWC holds a special place in my heart. One of my first “ultra-performance” sports watches was an IWC Aquatimer GST on a matching titanium bracelet. This was a 2000-meter water-resistant dive watch that featured a push-down locking unidirectional bezel and a mix of Luminova and tritium luminescence. This was in the late 1990s, and shortly after, I was tasked with reviewing their new IWC TZC UTC Pilot Watch, reference 3251. This model featured a sublime 5-piece bracelet with a push-button easy link removal system still in use today. It also had a display opening on the dial indicating a second time zone. Over the past twenty years, I have had the opportunity to get to know many IWC watches. Last year, one of their releases particularly caught my attention. While their pilot series has generally been quite conservative, they have recently experimented with different dial colors, but nothing like this release. As a Mercedes F1 team sponsor, IWC released a Petronas-AMG-themed Pilot Chronograph featuring bright Petronas green dial accents. This was a 41mm version of their standard day-date chronograph featuring their in-house caliber 69385 automatic movement in a grade 5 titanium case. For 2025, IWC has released the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, essentially a time-and-date version of their previously issued chronograph. This one also features a grade 5 titanium case, but this time with a solid case back. Dimensions are 40mm across the case, with a slender height of only 10....

A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment Fratello
Jan 7, 2025

A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment

We kick off the first Tuesday of 2025 with a reader’s story on his Speedmaster. This week’s contribution comes from Ricardo Rio, who resides in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Ricardo has been part of the Speedy Tuesday community for a long time. He has a professional background in sports and joined BMX Freestyle cyclist José Torres […] Visit A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment to read the full article.

Maen Rounds out the Manhattan Collection with a New Larger Case Option Worn & Wound
Maen Dec 31, 2024

Maen Rounds out the Manhattan Collection with a New Larger Case Option

Maen Watches, based in Stockholm, Sweden, has been crafting unique timepieces since 2017. With over eight different collections, they have developed a cohesive design language that is instantly recognizable as a Maen watch. Maen entered the integrated bracelet sports watch market about two years ago, although perhaps a tad late. Conversely, they appeared to embrace the resurgence of square(ish) watches early, offering a design that I personally prefer over a more recent controversial cubical release. Although I don’t have any hands-on experience with their watches yet, I have closely followed their development from the beginning and am pretty impressed with their attention to detail and the use of polished facets. This is particularly noteworthy considering their price point. Following the success of their Manhattan 37 Automatic and the Manhattan 39 Ultra-Thin Manual Wind, Maen will launch a new line, the Manhattan 40, with a larger case and automatic caliber.  Two standard models will be available: one in midnight blue and another in copper/salmon. Both will feature vertically elongated Côtes de Genève dials. Additionally, a special-edition model will feature a dial made of green jade stone. Jade is a valued gemstone with a craft history of about 7,000 years, renowned for its toughness and beauty. In China, it rivaled gold and diamonds. The Mayans, Aztecs, and Māori also cherished jade. Ancient Egyptians linked it to love and balance. Today, jade symbolizes goodness...