Revolution
Cyril Kongo - From Street to Silk and Beyond
In November of 2019, we were privileged to sit down with Parisian painter and graffiti artist, Cyril Kongo while he was in Singapore for a month long residency at The Mill.
Results for The Daytona 6263 / 6265 Era
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...
SJX Watches
Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith
In mid 2017, Julien Tornare, became chief executive at Zenith, maker of the famed El Primero chronograph. This came after a 17-year stint at Vacheron Constantin, where his last job was running the brand’s operations in Asia, its most important market by a large margin. At Zenith, Mr Tornare was called upon to revitalise a brand that had been drifting for some time. Zenith was clinging on too tightly to the past – namely the landmark El Primero – to the exclusion of everything else the brand had achieved. The diversification beyond the El Primero is exemplified by the Defy, a product crucial to the brand’s resurgence. The collection swiftly became a bestseller since its debut two years ago, but also boasts a milestone for the industry at large with the radical silicon oscillator in the Defy Inventor. The Defy Inventor During the El Primero 50th anniversary event that took place late last year in Singapore, I sat down with Mr Tornare to discuss his vision for Zenith, and how his start-up approach to running the brand has helped propel it into the new decade. The interview was edited for length and clarity. It has been two years since you took over at Zenith. Do you think you’re past the toughest part of the job? The toughest was probably at the beginning; getting the team on board with my vision was the most challenging. You can only develop a brand when you have everybody with you, and when you come from an entirely different brand, that takes some time. The firs...
Quill & Pad
Worldtimer vs. GMT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire
Do you need to know the time in various time zones? What is the real difference between a worldtimer and a GMT watch? How complicated are these watches to use? Chris Malburg answers these questions and more after spending some quality time with two enchanting multi-time zone watches.
Time+Tide
Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season
Today is a first in our home state of Victoria. It is the first day ever that a state of disaster has been declared by our Premier, Daniel Andrews, ahead of an “unprecedented” fire threat over the coming days. I mentioned this in my Editor’s Letter. Since then, it’s gotten worse. In our state alone … ContinuedThe post Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one?
The idea of a grail watch – the would-be jewel in the crown of our collection for which we all strive – is well established. Not only does it make for some really interesting discussions over coffee, but it also helps shape your collection’s direction and deepens your understanding of the watch industry and what … ContinuedThe post What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Musings on watch novelties presentations for 2020
We muse over the state of affairs with Baselworld and SIHH, and how this year's novelties presentations will play out for 2020.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary
At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...
Time+Tide
Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019
The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
4 Watches Perfect For A Horological Detox From Nomos, Hermès, Chopard, and Zenith
A horological detox means going back to simplicity. Just the basics: time-only, preferably in a stainless steel case and fitted with a strap, not overly thick or large, and dial functional in design. These are not attention-grabbing watches, but the perfect choice to start the new year with.
Quill & Pad
Sparkling Wine From Tasmania: Not Yet Champagne Level, But Very Close
Champagne is undoubtedly the pinnacle when it comes to great sparkling wine, but for Ken Gargett an impressive second place goes to Tasmania. He shares a few of his favorites here.
Time+Tide
Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know?
It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to “pull back the curtain” on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop … ContinuedThe post Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Year in review: Top 10 posts of 2019
As 2019 draws to a close, we are thankful for your support and readership this year. We also take a moment to reflect on the Top 10 posts for the year.
Quill & Pad
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115: Going Full Monty
The mechanical diva on the stage of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 movement is the big kahuna itself: the extremely large mainspring visible at 12 o’clock, which provides more than 10 days of power reserve. And quite a bit more according to Anders Modig.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #156: 2020 Watch Collecting Goals
This week, the guys wrap up another year of TBWS shenanigans and chat through their 2020 watch collecting goals. Plus, they share some ideas about community building and organizing TBWS events in 2020.
Time+Tide
LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019
It pains me so to admit this, but oftentimes a story is only as good as the photos that accompany it - especially when you’re writing about something as intricate and nuanced as watches. A good snap of a timepiece is not only the glorious icing on a particularly wordy cake, it actually assists us … ContinuedThe post LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
2019 Revolution Awards: Lifetime Achievement Award
Revolution editors and writers pick the most outstanding timepieces of 2019; but let’s not forget the people and companies behind these stellar creations.
Time+Tide
LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019
I asked Jason, Time+Tide’s resident photographer, if he could tell me his favourite watch photos from 2019 that he had captured, without quite realising the sheer scope of the work that he had done this year. I soon found out. “Hey Jason, how many photos have you taken this year?” “How many have I edited, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
19 Watches And Events That Defined 2019
This past year has been a big one, and Joshua Munchow thought it might be good to go back over it and see some of the launches that defined 2019. Here are the watches, an indicative trend, and the biggest highlights that demonstrated what 2019 was all about.
Time+Tide
3 of our favourite pilot’s watches that took flight in 2019
2019 has seen the rise of many, many trends in watchmaking - steel sports watches with integrated bracelets, bronze cases, limited editions … you get the drift. Another incredibly vogue tendency has been watch manufacturers introducing homage models or watches that aesthetically borrow heavily from vintage timepieces. And, unquestionably, the genre of watches that has most … ContinuedThe post 3 of our favourite pilot’s watches that took flight in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Definitive Watches of 2019, from Our Archives
In this week's column of Throwback Sundays, we take a look at six definitive watches of 2019 that had shaped the horological scene this year.
Time+Tide
Drone pilots? Snooker players? Four watch ambassadors straight out of left field
Some boardroom discussions would be fascinating to observe. The brand decisions presumably make sense at the time, but can appear a little odd to the rest of us. Every so often, however, a brand makes a bold play to distinguish itself from its price-point competitors and it kind of works. Sometimes because the brand chose … ContinuedThe post Drone pilots? Snooker players? Four watch ambassadors straight out of left field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Exceptional Movements In History: Zenith El Primero – Reprise
Loved the world over by collectors and watch brands alike, the Zenith El Primero has been keeping the world on time since 1969. And Rolex choosing to use the movement was high praise for Zenith indeed. The El Primero is still considered an exceptional chronograph to this day, and watchmaker Aston Tracy explains why.
Quill & Pad
My 5 Favorite Diamond-Set Watches Of 2019 – And Why You Should Care
One of the things that fascinates Martin Green about-diamond set watches is the craftsmanship needed to create them. This is a process that cannot be automated and a skill that requires a lot of time to develop. Here he highlights five of his favorites introduced in 2019.
Time+Tide
James’ top 5 favourite wristwatches of 2019
Many people who I respect in this industry have opined that 2019 hasn’t been a particularly exciting or fruitful year for watch releases … and I couldn’t disagree more. This, the final year of the decade, has given birth to an absolute plethora of new and innovative timepieces that have captured the imagination of many … ContinuedThe post James’ top 5 favourite wristwatches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Tutima M2 Coastline 6150
The Tutima M2 Coastline is a great looking timepiece with a relatively slim profile despite its 43mm size. Cased in full titanium, the watch weighs significantly less than a steel counterpart of the same size. This means additional comfort and stronger corrosion resistance as well.
Quill & Pad
Ikepod: Just Another Mystical Phoenix-Burns-In-Fire-Then-Reborn-Better-Than-Ever Story. Except That This One Is True – Reprise
Ikepod was born 24 years ago and has since died not once, but twice (well, three times, sort of). It is now back for an overdue third coming. Joshua Munchow thinks that the third time's a charm for this iconic brand from the 1990s, too.
Quill & Pad
2019 Gaïa Awards: Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Enameler Suzanne Rohr, And Historian Laurent Tissot Honored
If the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awards the horological Oscars, then the more cerebral Gaïa might be considered the horological Nobel Prize. And the three prize winners for 2019 are . . .
Revolution
It Makes You Wonder
Revolution UK’s Ken Kessler surveys the millennial winds blowing through the watch industry.
Quill & Pad
Gerontohorologyphobia: A Young Man’s Fear Of Being Seen Wearing An Old Man’s Watch
Colin was wearing a steel watch with blue dial when the receptionist at the trading company he was working for, a chirpy lass straight out of the BBC’s 'Eastenders' soap opera, looked down disdainfully and said, “I hate watches with blue dials. They remind me of old men in pubs.” What happened after that can only be described as a case of gerontohorologyphobia: fear of inadvertently wearing an old man's watch.