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First Look – A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer Monochrome
Nov 28, 2024

First Look – A US Army Commissioned Wristwatch Gets a Remake as the Titoni Airmaster Pilot Chronometer

Titoni is an independent family-owned watch brand founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland, now in the hands of great-grandsons Marc and Olivier Schluep. With a variety of contemporary collections and even an in-house automatic powering its Line 1919 dress watch collection, the genuine interest in this brand resides in its remakes of […]

Ressence Introduces the Type 8 “Indigo” Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Nov 25, 2024

Ressence Introduces the Type 8 “Indigo”

When you think of Ressence, the first things that come to mind are likely the brand’s forward thinking, non traditional design language, and their completely unique mechanical solution for telling time via a series of rotating circles as opposed to traditional hands. You probably don’t think of traditional craft – given the hyper-modern aesthetic of the brand, most of their signature designs forego the tenets of classical watchmaking. There are exceptions to be found, of course, in the Ressence’s library of one-offs and limited editions, but classifying their approach, on the whole, as somewhat “industrial” isn’t too far off the mark. That’s what makes a watch like the Type 8 Indigo so interesting. It’s one of those exceptions, and in it we can see the many different things a Ressence watch can be.  The Type 8 Indigo is Ressence’s contribution to the The Indigo Project, led by Shellman, the brand’s Tokyo based Japanese retail partner. The design of the dial incorporates a single indigo dyed silk thread, placed in a spiral pattern by a skilled artisan. Indigo dyeing is part of a craft tradition in Japan spanning centuries, and the watch is a tribute to both Japanese tradition and an impressive design object on its own. Because of the dye and the nature of the thread itself, a range of blue tones are visible on the dial. According to Ressence, the total length of the thread is 2.5 meters, and it measures just 0.2mm in diameter, which underscores the in...

Introducing – The Beautiful Blue Silk Dial of the Ressence Type 8 Indigo Monochrome
Ressence Type 8 Indigo Founded Nov 25, 2024

Introducing – The Beautiful Blue Silk Dial of the Ressence Type 8 Indigo

Founded by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens in 2010, Ressence is renowned for its ingenious no-hands display of the time. Sleek, minimalist, futuristic watches with innovative mechanical solutions, Ressence tells the time with revolving sub-dials powered by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS). Like planets orbiting the Sun, the time indications circle the dial […]

In-Depth – The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date, Everything You Need To Know, And More… Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date Nov 22, 2024

In-Depth – The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date, Everything You Need To Know, And More…

After months of speculation and anticipation, and enviously seeing Daniel Craig flaunting one, Omega has finally brought us the Seamaster Diver 300M No Date. In my initial article, I wanted to get the news out quickly, so I kept things a touch factual. Now though, after getting my hands on the two watches that are […]

Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 Fratello
Rolex Submariner Ref 5508 You Nov 17, 2024

Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

You know what they say: “Don’t meet your heroes. It will only disappoint you. The curtain will lift on your enamored illusions, and you will come out sadder and wiser, maybe even cynical.” So when Nacho asked me if I would be interested in doing a hands-on with a 65-year-old Rolex Submariner, I was apprehensive. […] Visit Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra and Strike Two Highland Regulators Monochrome
Chronoswiss Nov 11, 2024

Introducing – The new Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra and Strike Two Highland Regulators

Chronoswiss, founded in 1983 in Munich by the late Gerd Lang, acquired renown for the celebrated watchmaker’s regulator models and distinctive design language. Now in the hands of Oliver Ebstein, with headquarters in Lucerne, the brand’s traditional regulators have been given a 21st-century visual punch and reinterpreted with vivid colours and textures. Pushing the envelope, […]

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Pink Gold And Blue Makes My Head Spin Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Nov 8, 2024

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Pink Gold And Blue Makes My Head Spin

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds defines watch charisma. The proportions, material, and colors work wonders - and not just for me. Everyone in the Fratello office wanted to get their hands on this particular Reverso. In the introduction article, I expressed how I couldn’t wait to try on this watch. It didn’t […] Visit The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Pink Gold And Blue Makes My Head Spin to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Nov 4, 2024

Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi

In 2019, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak X, an entry-level to the innovative and convention-breaking Freak series, maintaining the brand’s “no-dial, no-hands” design, showcasing its signature flying carousel construction within the newly developed UN 230 movement. Though simpler than the original Freak and featuring a crown, the Freak X retained the DNA of its iconic […]

The Best Beginner Field Watches Under $500 Worn & Wound
Nov 1, 2024

The Best Beginner Field Watches Under $500

Born in the crucible of the Great War, the modern field watch has come to be prized for its simplicity, legibility, and durability by watch enthusiasts. Its definition was codified by governments urgently needing accurate and reliable timepieces to issue to their militaries during the Second World War, with the watches becoming characterized by their well-proportioned, durable cases, legible dials, luminous hands and markers, and base-level water resistance to withstand whatever they encounter in the field. Perfect for a day out or a day in the office, their rugged versatility makes them a natural touch point for both beginner and experienced collectors alike. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten of our favorite field watches under $500. Let’s dive in.   Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post The Best Beginner Field Watches Under $500 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Timex “Yankee Dollar” Watch Returns Worn & Wound
Timex Yankee Dollar” Watch Returns Oct 31, 2024

The Timex “Yankee Dollar” Watch Returns

In the aftermath of World War II, Timex-known initially as The Waterbury Clock Company-sought to leverage the United States manufacturing experience gained during the war. The company aimed to produce affordable timing devices as an alternative to more expensive European models. In 1954, they aimed to make timekeeping accessible to everyone, resulting in the creation of the Yankee Dollar watch, which was priced at exactly one dollar. These watches found their way into the hands and pockets of everyday Americans; even Samuel Clemens paid a dollar for one. It is said that this was “the watch that made the dollar famous.” In recent years, Timex has introduced several editions of its Waterbury watches, each unique in its own way. However, nothing compares to what they have planned for November 16th. To celebrate its 170th anniversary, Timex will launch a Limited Edition Waterbury timepiece priced at just one dollar, reminiscent of the original Yankee Dollar watch. Yes, you read that correctly-it will be only one dollar! These Waterbury timepieces are typically priced at $119. A letter to Timex from Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) The Timex Waterbury 170th Anniversary Limited Edition will be built on their 40mm Waterbury platform, which is 10mm thick and has a lug width of 20mm, thus providing countless strap options. Instead of a flat white dial with a printed minute track and Roman numerals, it is replaced by an elegant 3D lacquered white dial with Roman numeral markers...

#TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse Fratello
Oct 31, 2024

#TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse

It’s safe to say that 1969 was a strong year on all fronts, including for the watch industry. If the Moon landing is not enough, think of the first automatic chronograph conquering wrists or quartz watches waving their hands to them with a sneer of the coming revolution. That was the general context when Swiss […] Visit #TBT André Le Marquand’s Timeless Spaceman Audacieuse to read the full article.

Recapping the Tudor x Worn & Wound Windup Watch Fair NYC Kick-off Event Worn & Wound
Tudor x Worn & Wound Oct 25, 2024

Recapping the Tudor x Worn & Wound Windup Watch Fair NYC Kick-off Event

Just dip into the Worn & Wound YouTube channel search for Tudor. Whether it’s ongoing interest in our hands-on videos with their watches or the popularity of our Thunderdome series, it’s clear that Tudor is an extremely important brand to our enthusiast audience. So when they offered their Tudor Boutique within the Tourneau space in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan as a venue for the kick off event of the Windup Watch Fair NYC weekend, we were both honored and excited. The Thursday before any Windup weekend is filled with anticipation that you can genuinely feel. Fairgoers seem to be gearing up for either battle, a concert by their favorite band, or a little of both. The Tudor Boutique was a perfect place to both harness that energy and build on it for the rest of the long weekend. Their boutique is designed to be a part showroom and part gathering space for the Tudor-curious. Last Thursday night, it was filled to capacity with fans of both the Worn & Wound and Tudor brands. This was most evident in the sheer amount of interesting and unique Tudor watches on the wrists of multiple attendees! Attendees were greeted with a signature cocktail called the “METAS Manhattan,” referring of course to the Master Chronometer certification. A comprehensive standard that covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including: precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Watches like Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic, the Black Bay, and the...

Brew Launches the New Metric Star Worn & Wound
Brew Launches Oct 10, 2024

Brew Launches the New Metric Star

Brew has had quite a run with their Metric chronograph. When the watch first appeared in the summer of 2021, it was clear that the brand had a hit on their hands, but it’s grown into what I think could fairly be called full fledged phenomenon status. Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer has found nearly endless ways to change up the look of the watch with different dial colors and coatings to the case and bracelet, and an automatic version was released last year that could prove to be a jumping off point for a slew of new more complicated Metrics. Through all of these releases, the Metric has become something of a calling card in indie and microbrand watch circles. It’s kind of the ultimate approachable insider’s watch – wearing one immediately makes it clear that you are part of the enthusiast world, and not just wearing a watch to tell the time (or time an espresso shot).  The latest Metric, released just in time for Windup New York City, is the Metric Star, which is meant to evoke a more refined aesthetic, according to the brand. The new Metric Star has a gold tone dial with a brushed, sunray finish, and accents in red and blue. The outer scale for chronograph seconds is particularly clever, with a blue section highlighted against the remainder of the scale in red in the proper place for that perfect espresso shot. It’s another very nicely executed dial from Brew. This one in particular, I think, gives off a classic 70s sports watch energy. It’s the gold dial, clea...

Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived Sep 23, 2024

Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde

Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...

The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements

When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. The post The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements appeared first on Worn & Wound.

[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better? Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Sep 13, 2024

[Video] Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition vs. Pink: Which is Better?

Tudor has been on a roll this year with new additions to the Black Bay Chronograph collection. Just a few weeks ago, they dropped a new addition to its Black Bay Chronograph lineup: the Blue Boutique Edition. Since I recently picked up the pink dial variant, naturally I wanted to get my hands on the blue and see how it stacks up against my current favorite. Both models bring something unique to the table, but should you go out of your way to pick up either? Let me see if I can encourage some of ya’ll to come to the dark side with me! Starting with the classic (and widely available) Black Bay Chronograph, I had a chance to wear the white panda version a few months ago, and while I appreciated its solid build and good looks, something about it wasn’t quite right. I’ll be the first to admit that I am attracted to the Black Bay Chrono because of its similarities to its “big sister” chronograph, the Rolex Daytona. Since I’m not willing to pay gray market prices and getting one at retail is a grail move in itself, I’ve always considered the BB Chrono a solid alternative.  I was super excited Tudor lent me the white panda as I had never gone hands on with one for more than 5 minutes. Upon putting it on my wrist I was totally down with the look of the thicker chronograph but something just wasn’t sitting right (literally). The oyster bracelet just felt too heavy for my taste and bulky in nature. I also found the lack of on-the-fly adjustability frustrating in the ...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Sep 12, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

The very first wristwatch François-Paul Journe created was the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité – three prototypes were made in 1993 and he retained the very first example. Arguably the most famous F.P. Journe wristwatch alongside the Résonance, the tourbillon has since evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, which is likely the final version of the watchmaker’s take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Conceived for chronometric utility as a wristwatch, the Tourbillon Vertical, or “TV” for short, is the latest iteration of Mr Journe’s interpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s invention. It was launched in 2019 for the 20th anniversary of the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. The vertical tourbillon sits in a countersink with mirror-polished sides The Tourbillon Vertical retains the signature double feature of the original F.P. Journe tourbillon, namely a tourbillon regulator and a remontoir d’egalite, or constant force device. But while the prototype and all subsequent iterations of the F.P. Journe tourbillon had a flat tourbillon on the same plane as the movement, the Tourbillon Vertical is self-descriptive. Its tourbillon sits perpendicular to the movement, with both the carriage and balance wheel standing at a 90° angle to the plane of the dial. In sophistication, finish, materials, and even size, the Tourbillon Vertical is far removed from the 1993 prototypes. Yet it is quintessential F.P. Journe in its elegant, concise technical approach while al...

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Sep 11, 2024

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur

Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 10, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold

First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...

Introducing – Longines Launches 15 New References in the Master Collection With Engraved Dials Monochrome
Longines Launches 15 New References Sep 9, 2024

Introducing – Longines Launches 15 New References in the Master Collection With Engraved Dials

Possibly the most classic and timeless range of Longines, the Master Collection has long been slightly overlooked since its inception in 2005, maybe due to a rather shy design. Yet, in 2022 to mark the brand’s 190th anniversary, Longines gave this collection a highly appealing twist, with grained dials and engraved Breguet-like numerals, elevating this […]

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue SJX Watches
Breitling s B01 but upgraded Aug 30, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...

Introducing – The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Monochrome
Breitling derived automatic movement including Aug 28, 2024

Introducing – The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue

First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]