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Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern tried, but didn't quite manage, to come up with a more diplomatic way of saying this, so he just came out with it: up to this point, he had not generally been a fan of Bovet 1822. So he was surprised by just how much he was impressed with the Ottantasei by Pininfarina and would be very happy to wear one daily. But there is one niggle that he just can't shake off . . .
Hodinkee
All that, and more, in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
“In the past year, despite a global pandemic, social unrest, and economic catastrophe, [Ramachandran] successfully found homes for thousands of neglected watches.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Included in the lot are three pairs at fifty percent off retail for a BuyItNow price of $528 + $75 shipping-a bargain to any enthusiast who’s been coveting a watch strap bearing the website’s stamp. Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre's brand-new Memovox models launched in 2020 are delectable new renditions of the 70-year-old alarm timepiece that have more to offer than "just" looks. Aside from the Master Control Memovox Timer's variety of tone-in-tone blue hues and textures and the Master Control Memovox's purist style, there are big changes to the movement that alone make these new models worth looking at.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
"I showed her the quality of the logo on the box." Blaine Parker, the YouTube watch reviewer, explained as he raised a box for us to see the embossed lettered. "See? That's pressed into the box - not printed. Quality!" Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Having come across a flattering photo of Ryan Reynolds in a Google search for “celebrity watch brands,” Melvin Greenberg, 41, was convinced, “This is the one. This is the one that will finally get me laid.” Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).
WatchAdvice
Oris has been coming out with some fantastic watches in 2020, including Momotaro and Hölstein Edition. Now they have unveiled another stunner, the Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition. Oris has partnered up with the Roberto Clemente Foundation, which is a humanitarian organisation named in honour of the great Puerto Rican professional baseball right fielder; Roberto Enrique Clemente Walker. This special piece was created to honour the late Roberto Clemente and is released to the public on September 9th 2020, which is Roberto Clemente day. Roberto Clemente Oris designed the Roberto Clemente Limited Edition using the Big Crown Pointer date as the base model. Oris has been making the pointer date model since 1938, with the Big Crown Pointer Date model having deep roots in the Swiss brands history as well. The Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition is released in a 3000 limited run, to honour Roberto Clemente’s career hits in his Baseball career. So why did Oris create this timepiece? Roberto Clemente was more than just a Baseball player. Born in 1934, Roberto faced many battles, including discrimination because of the colour of his skin. However, this would only make him more motivated and determined to prove everyone wrong. Roberto conducting a baseball clinic for local children in his native Puerto Rico Roberto would go onto become one of the greatest Baseball players the game has seen, which saw him become a Baseball Hall of Famer. Roberto Clemente has won two Wor...
SJX Watches
Announced shortly before COVID-19 made the news, the US$16 billion deal to take over Tiffany & Co. has been scrapped by LVMH. The French luxury conglomerate, which counts Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Hublot amongst its brands, cited the looming tariffs on French goods announced by the United States. That led to instructions from the French government to delay the deal until January 2021, according to LVMH. Another reason cited by the French group was Tiffany’s request for extension of the closing date for the deal, from November to December. In response, Tiffany filed a lawsuit in the United States, seeking to force LVMH to complete the deal. Regardless of the motives behind the withdrawal, it appears to be a shrewd move by LVMH, which is controlled by Bernard Arnault, the richest man in France and widely regarded to be a hard-nosed dealmaker. In the 10 months since the deal has been announced, the world has changed drastically. The state of the the industry makes it likely that LVMH will be able to find cheaper avenues to cement its position as the world’s biggest luxury group. Tiffany shares fell almost 10% in pre-market trading on the news, while LVMH declined about 0.9% during the trading day in Paris.
Time+Tide
There is an endless succession of fads, curiosities and sensations on social media. @horomariobro is not one of them. And if you need to stop now and follow him, we’ll forgive you. His extraordinary macro photography and videography, coupled with insightful commentary on what his lens has captured, has hit Instagram with the force of a revelation. When it comes … ContinuedThe post Instagram macro photography sensation @Horomariobro joins us to explain his most popular posts, starting with Lang & Heyne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
"I don't understand. I told Mr. Baker that it was time to surface," Ramon, their tour guide explained "But he just kept looking at his watch and saying something about ISO standards and asking me if my Apple Watch was ISO COSC.”... Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably)
Deployant
Grand Seiko introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph GMT in pink gold and a magnificent deep blue dial.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green reports on five green-themed watches he saw during the loose Geneva Watch Days fair, timepieces that made such impressions that they have stuck with him this past week.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Kaz and Baird (TBWS Contributor extraordinaire) sit down to talk shop on two major releases that recently dropped from Rolex and Grand Seiko. Spoiler: they're polar freaking opposite releases.
Time+Tide
Last year, self-taught watchmaking artisan and creative genius Hajime Asaoka decided he wanted to launch a more accessible range of watches to satiate those who loved his creations but could not afford them. The bespoke watches made under Hajime Asaoka’s name start at around $40,000 USD and take a year or more to produce. Kurono … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In the aftermath of Geneva Watch Days, Elizabeth Doerr discovered some fun wristshots taken during the fair. As these mark a journey of sorts through the new watches – as well as models released throughout 2020 that our team hadn’t seen in real yet – she thought to share a few of them here.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin (UN) excels at excellent in-house movements, even for its most affordable, time-only watches. Its watches cases, on the other hand, are typically straightforward – they do the job, but are far from fancy. Just launched at Geneva Watch Days, the Blast Tourbillon is a step in the fancier-case direction. Fronted by a strikingly facetted – and contrast finished – upper plate, the case of the Blast is novel without being too much (though it is a bit much combined with the “X” skeleton movement). And the Blast also sits surprisingly well on the wrist despite its large size. But true to UN’s technically-oriented watchmaking, the Blast is not merely new livery for an old movement. Instead the UN-172 movement within is a new calibre featuring an extensively skeletonised construction – that retains the “X” motif the brand is overly fond of – as well as the signature full-kit silicon oscillator. Initial thoughts The Blast combines an interesting case with an elaborate movement – automatic, skeletonised, and a tourbillon featuring a silicon escapement and hairspring – for not very much money as such things go. With the base model retailing for US$44,000 for the base model, the Blast is priced well. The case is the highlight – finished well and wearable despite its size. The Blast is a big watch at 45 mm in diameter, though it feels notably slimmer than its 13 mm height, partly due to the case height-to-diameter ratio. The fit is good for a wat...
Deployant
The Portugieser Chronograph (Ref. 3716), one of IWC’s most popular models, is newly equipped in the standard version with the IWC in-house 69355 calibre and a see-through sapphire-glass back. This year's new colors include a green sunburst and red sunburst dial.
Quill & Pad
The effect of the blue sapphire crystal bridge on the De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon is astonishing. It is simultaneously light, airy, and (importantly) blue. It reflects the light back in the friendliest of ways. It is De Bethune blue, but it is also translucent to reveal the layers below it. The layering makes it feel sculptural, unique, and complicated without becoming busy. And that is just one component. Find out what makes up the rest of this incredible timepiece here.
Deployant
Rado launches the new Captain Cook Bronze - the latest addition to the wonderful Captain Cook collection. How does it stand against its brethren?
Revolution
Martin Frei, URWERK chief designer and co-founder walks us through all of the brand’s novelties in the year 2020.
Revolution
Donna-Marie Povey, aka @tudorcollector debuts top ten on the UK classical chart, with her live recorded album, First Take
WatchAdvice
INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status. In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020. Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving. Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’. FIRST IMPRESSIONS: I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...
Time+Tide
If you were to travel back in time and ask a circa 2010 horological enthusiast what some of the big players in the mainstream watchmaking game were, there’s a fair chance that Raymond Weil would get a mention. However, a lot has happened in the subsequent decade that’s followed – it could even be argued … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original has had a year that few, if anyone, could have ever predicted. They have gone from eye-catching but niche Sixties Editions in lurid colours in 2019 and 2018 to what was declared by many that watched our video earlier in the year to be the best watch released at Virtual Basel – the … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Don’t be a philistine. If you’re going to own a watch in excess of $300, it should rate something of quality to keep on the wrist. We are fortunate to live in a time where the bar’s been raised in congruence with competition.
Quill & Pad
Unfortunately, the devastation wrought by the pandemic has impacted sales of champagne more viciously than almost any other style of drink, but the quality of Ayala has never been better. Ken Gargett thinks that if you have neglected Ayala in the past, it is definitely time for a rethink. Or re-drink.
Time+Tide
During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the … ContinuedThe post 6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The concept of the watch is no longer a tool, but a medium-and in a category of its own alongside sculpture or painting (consider Moser’s high-art Swiss Cheese Venturer or Swiss Alp Repeater). If this is something you’re willing to entertain, then it’s worth acknowledging the contributions of several dismissed brands and the artists behind them.
Quill & Pad
Here are three intriguing tourbillons by Laurent Ferrier, Vacheron Constantin, and Piaget from the digital Watches & Wonders 2020 fair that particularly caught Martin Green's critical eye.
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