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Quill & Pad
While H. Upmann usurped the famous British leader’s name for this cigar, Ken Gargett has no doubt Winston Churchill would have loved the tribute. After having smoked two, Ken thinks it a truly glorious cigar (99/100) and one that should be in every serious cigar lover’s rotation.
Deployant
Corum releases the second in their LAB series with the 02, a watch with a flying gear train. A novel idea yet to be attempted by anyone else.
Quill & Pad
Watch bracelets are often as underrated as housekeeping in a good hotel: they are commonly taken for granted. Collectors usually focus on the shape of the case and look of the dial first, with the movement coming in a close second. Here Martin Green takes a closer look at four new watches of 2020 whose full-metal bracelets significantly change the look of them.
Hodinkee
This book brings the groovy, the weird, the "out there," and the obscure.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
In honor of Father’s Day 2020, Mike and Kaz run through some of their top picks for the ultimate dad watch. You’ll hear options for all stages of fatherhood across a bunch of different price ranges.
SJX Watches
Everyone in watchmaking has been affected by the pandemic, brands and consumers alike. But in between the two are the retailers. To find out how the situation in unfolding for the key intermediary between brand and consumer, we spoke with Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi. He is the Chief Commercial Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the luxury-watch pioneer established in 1950 that is now the biggest retailer in the Middle East. Beyond being a retailer, the Dubai-based company is also widely known for organising Dubai Watch Week, the biannual fair that brings watchmakers and industry personalities to the Emirate. The interview was edited for clarity and length. First, how did Seddiqi get through the lockdown? It all happened very fast and came as a shock at first. The UAE government applied very strict rules immediately to protect the population and support the economy. We underwent a strict lockdown of 40 days. For security reasons, we moved our inventory out of the malls into our headquarters. We quickly found out it was a good idea! Indeed, no matter that the whole state was in lockdown, people still reached out to us for watches. We started sending pictures to them and organising home deliveries. At the beginning to middle of March, we did one delivery a week, then it turned into a daily challenge. What is amazing is that we did not get any order cancellations during the period. On the contrary, we saw people were getting bored at home, so online shopping increased. But we...
SJX Watches
Unveiled just a day ago, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A “New Manufacture 2019” is a commemorative edition for the completion of the brand’s huge headquarters in Geneva. Though it is a just time-and-date watch, the ref. 6007A has a few interesting details that set it apart from the typical Calatrava, and all the details come together nicely for a refreshingly modern – and expensive – Calatrava. While the launch of the ref. 6007A was largely a surprise, in some other ways it wasn’t. When Patek Philippe debuted the Calatrava ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar a year ago, it was a quirky outlier amidst the formality of the Calatrava line. But insiders revealed that the Weekly Calendar was a hint about the Calatrava’s future. While endowed with such a long history that “Calatrava” is almost a synonym for a thin, classical dress watch, the Calatrava line was getting old fashioned. Featuring hand-writing inspired markings on the dial, the Weekly Calendar marked a new design direction for the line. At the same time, the Calatrava collection has been trimmed significantly, leaving just four men’s Calatrava references (the refs. 5196, 5227, 5297, and 6006), and now the ref. 6007A. The Calatrava ref. 6007A “New Manufacture 2019” The Calatrava ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar Initial thoughts I like the look of the ref. 6007A. It doesn’t look like yet another silver-dial dress watch, which makes is especially appealing for anyone who already has a silver-dial d...
Hodinkee
The 13ZN and more.
Quill & Pad
Tool watches continue their evolution among the watch industry’s most luxurious and coveted brands. Here, Chris Malburg explores where their evolution has gone and might still go.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Multifort came out in the 1930s and was Mido’s first automatic, anti-magnetic, shock-resistant, and water-resistant watch. These attributes made it the best selling Mido for many years. Today’s Multifort Collection still builds on these principles.
Deployant
Montblanc releases the new Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum available in stainless steel and rose gold. Orbis Terrarum comes from Latin, meaning “globe”, “earth”, and “world” giving the inspiration for the worldtime complication. The worldtime function is simple to set, read and use indicating all 24 time zones at a glance and shows whether the cities are in the daytime or nighttime.
Quill & Pad
Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction: XI will be led by a great selection of fine collectible timepieces hailing from powerhouses including Patek Philippe and Rolex as well as independent watchmakers such as F.P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen. And there's even a near-mythical Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter on offer here. Check out what other unusual timepieces by independent watchmakers you might find.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
It is a tribute that recognizes both the aircraft and its storied RAF pilot, whose fortitude in the face of hardship leaves me wondering why a watch with his name hadn’t been attempted sooner.
Deployant
We go hands-on and in-depth with the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 with our inghts on how th e watch looks and handles. With high res pics.
Hodinkee
Variety is the name of the game in this week's round-up.
Quill & Pad
Very, very rarely does Elizabeth Doerr see a watch book where everything fits together in the way a book should: engaging, well-written text; very obviously carefully copyedited; great paper quality; good, clear, pleasing-to-the-eye design; super photography, and an engaging subject matter. And she's happy to report it does here. 'Retro Watches' by Josh Sims and Mitch Greenblatt is a must-read for those interested in affordable, design-focused watches of a quirky bygone era.
Time+Tide
We want to start this post with a shoutout to some YouTube commenters by the name of Nicolas, Hani and Lee. This trio recently commented on the Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green video and each echoed the same sentiments, which to paraphrase, are: “We are in doubt between this Longines and an Oris Aquis.” … ContinuedThe post Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Patek Philippe created a new Calatrava in stainless steel to celebrate the opening of their manufacture. Presenting the new Ref. 6007A-001. LE1000 pieces.
SJX Watches
After an epic career, industry legend Walter von Känel has just retired as chief executive of Longines, a post he held since 1988. Now 79 years old, Mr von Känel joined Longines in 1969, just as the watch industry was on the cusp of the Quartz Crisis, and stayed for 51 years. Under his leadership Longines has become the world’s fourth largest watchmaker by revenue, with 2019 sales of about 1.65 billion Swiss francs – from an output of about 2.1 million watches – according to Morgan Stanley estimates. Despite Longines’ vast size, Mr von Känel retained an almost unbelievable grasp of the brand’s history and products, something he demonstrated during a 2016 interview where he could describe the calibre inside the Lindbergh remake of 1987. For all his success, Mr von Känel remained steadfastly dedicated to the brand, keeping a relatively low profile despite being in a business filled with large personalities. When I asked in the 2016 interview if Longines would be doing anything to mark his 50 years at the company, he response was simple: “I am against the cult of personality. We sell Longines watches, we don’t sell von Kanel watches.” On his retirement, Mr von Känel was named Honorary Chairman of Longines, while keeping his appointment as Chairman of the Longines Foundation. The new chief executive of Longines is Matthias Breschan, who was most recently chief executive of Rado. Mr Breschan, in turn, will be succeeded at Rado by Adrian Bosshard, who wa...
WatchAdvice
The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is simply a watch that explains Oris’s true personality. The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 goes back to the roots of what mechanical watches are all about. In today’s world, so many of us know what the things around us can do, but rarely actually know how they work. The same logic applies to mechanical watches too. We see brilliant timepieces made and know what they can do, yet rarely see or understand the inner workings behind them. This is the idea behind the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, to show as much as possible how the true inner workings of a mechanical watch operate. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 There is almost a natural connection between a mechanical watch and its owner. If we don’t wind it, or even yet move, we won’t drive enough power to turn the mainspring which ultimately powers the movement. This is what Oris is trying to show with the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Oris’s Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 was inspired by nature, in particular, a Valley named Waldenburg, which surrounds the village of Hölstein. This particular village is significant to Oris, as it is there where the brand originally began. Oris was founded in 1904, and since then the brand has been based in Hölstein. It’s no wonder then that they would go back there to find sources of inspiration for arguably the “most Oris watch” they have ever made. Oris Big Crown ProPi...
Time+Tide
Watch modification, or “modding”, is a remarkably popular subset of the watch collecting community, where enthusiasts will tinker with their watches to build totally customised pieces to wear. Without a doubt the most popular brand in the modding space is Seiko, where the combination of affordability and relatively widespread access to quality parts makes for … ContinuedThe post 7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In-depth, hands on review of the new Peren Hintz. An interesting and intriguing amalgamation of Swiss precision and Transylvanian mystery.
Revolution
Bulgari announces a new partnership with the University of Oxford to fund its Jenner Institute in their Covid-19 vaccine research.
SJX Watches
Smart and original in design, the Octo Finissimo is extremely slim, well priced, and a strong seller for Bulgari, which has rolled out many iterations, including one in matte-black ceramic last year. Now Bulgari has added the shiny version to the line up with the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic. Initial thoughts The new Octo in all its glossy glory is ideal for anyone who found the original ceramic Octo flat and dull. But I prefer the matte version – the muted look very much suits the style of the watch. At the same time, polished ceramic, especially for a thin and lightweight watch, is too reminiscent of plastic. That aside, the technical appeal of the ceramic case and bracelet is the same as with the matte model. Both are constructed identically – simple and complex at the same time – differing only in the finish and colour. Though visually identical to the metal-alloy models, the ceramic Octo has an entirely different construction, which was a necessity due to the material. That’s an appealing factor in itself, because the watch was designed from the ground up as an all-ceramic watch; even the dial is ceramic. The new Octo Finissimo is light and smooth on the wrist. In fact, it is difficult to distinguish the tangible feel of the two ceramic versions from each other, and even from the titanium version. And like all other versions of the Octo, the new version wears well, with one caveat: wrists below a certain circumference don’t really sui...
Quill & Pad
What happens when form dominates function nearly completely and the watch itself becomes a canvas for art? What if artistic freedom can be enjoyed without time being the primary purpose? Martin Green highlights three great examples here.
Deployant
The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton is now extended with a charming blue tinted sapphire dial allowing a peek-a-boo of the skeletonized movement.
Hodinkee
Looking beyond the top lots to find outstanding value deeper in the catalog.
Deployant
The new extension to the prodigious BR 05 line is now available with a more contemporary look - in a two tone Black Steel and Gold.
Quill & Pad
The release of the thrilling 2012 Cristal heralds the culmination of Louis Roederer’s efforts in biodynamics. The vineyard has released champagnes in the recent past that have been biodynamic, or part thereof, but this is the first time the flagship, the legendary Cristal, is 100 percent biodynamic. And what a vintage for it!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This week we're returning to our most beloved segment here at TBWS. That's right - it's the one that started it all: Affordable Vintage Watches. This episode we're breaking down our picks for Affordable Vintage Pilot Watches.
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