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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Arken Alterum Returns to the Internet in Sage Grey Worn & Wound
May 22, 2026

The Arken Alterum Returns to the Internet in Sage Grey

Arken, the UK based microbrand founded by Kenneth Lam, is back with a new version of their Alterum model in a Sage Grey colorway. The Alterum has been a tough watch to catch since its introduction in 2023. The first batch of 200 sold out quickly, as did a subsequent run. For the last year or so, Lam has been focused on getting out to watch events and showing people the Alterum in person, offering secret “Speakeasy” versions of the watch made just for those events (no photographs, please). So, a new version of the Alterum that you can actually order on a website is a bit of a novelty in and of itself, and for folks that haven’t been able to make to a show where Arken has been in attendance, or just would prefer this particular dial execution, now is the time to mark those calendars.  We covered the Alterum here, but a quick refresher is likely in order for anyone not familiar with the watch’s unique mechanical footprint. It’s a two timezone watch, with a module built on a Miyota movement of Lam’s own design. That module allows for the tracking of day and night in two time zones and the independent setting of the local time by “locking” the GMT hand when rotating the crown counterclockwise.  I’ll be honest here: setting the Alterum is kind of complicated. I’m an owner of an Alterum, and I still don’t quite get it myself. I have the local time set to my own time zone on the east coast of the United States, and the GMT hand permanently set to “Ken tim...

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon May 22, 2026

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton

The Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. made quite an unconventional splash this year at Watches & Wonders, with its completely out-of-left-field collaboration with Reebok for the Streamliner "Pump," a watch-and-sneaker release that only this brand could somehow manage to pull off. But there was a release that kind of slipped under the radar earlier in the year that I think offers a really excellent combination of Moser's strengths in one watch, which warrants a closer look. I'm talking about the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton launched at the end of January, and it's been a watch I've wanted to see in person since the announcement went live. On paper, it seems like a simple enough concept: take the skeletonized flying tourbillon movement Caliber HMC-814 introduced back in 2024 for the integrated bracelet Streamliner collection, and pair it with one of Moser's more classic and conservative Endeavour silhouettes. For me, that skeletonized flying tourbillon caliber has remained one of my favorite architectures that the brand has ever come out with, and I think the extra bit of elegance gained with the Endeavour case makes it stand out on its own. That 40mm Endeavour case, in 5N red gold, should feel very familiar to those who like Moser's designs. It is a twist on a dressier silhouette that looks simple from the top down, but at any other angle, the Endeavour has many interesting little design touches, from the concave bezel to the distinctive sculpting of the case flanks. They...

Introducing - The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions Monochrome
MB&F; May 22, 2026

Introducing - The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions

Teaming up with independent watchmaker wizard Stephen McDonnell in 2015 catapulted MB&F; into the rarefied domain of haute horlogerie. McDonnell’s extraordinary, award-winning LM Perpetual marked a before-and-after in the genre. A fully integrated 581-component calibre, the complication is shown dial-side beneath the suspended balance wheel of the Legacy Machine family. A mesmerising display of mechanical […]

Chromatic and Dramatic: MB&F; Debuts Coloured Gems for the LM Perpetual SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre debuted May 22, 2026

Chromatic and Dramatic: MB&F; Debuts Coloured Gems for the LM Perpetual

Having launched the first Legacy Machine (LM) Perpetual with a gem-set bezel last year — to mark the 75th anniversary of the brand’s UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi — MB&F; returns with three new LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions set with coloured stones. Initial thoughts Last year’s Seddiqi edition featured a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. The choice of stone was appropriately dignified for the moment, but coloured stones seem to be something of a trend within a trend. Jaeger-LeCoultre debuted a trio of Reversos set with coloured gems only yesterday, and Patek Philippe has gone so far as to add its formerly off-catalogue seven-figure sapphire, ruby, and emerald-set Nautilus collection to its website for all to see. MB&F;’s move to embellish its highly technical watches in this way reflects the premiumisation of the broader industry, as collectors seek out the rarest and most exclusive ‘trophy’ variants of sought-after watches. This trio of LM Perpetuals is notable in another way — the black lacquer dials are unusual, similar to those used for the Longhorn and sporty EVO editions. Illustrating the brand’s continued independence — despite Chanel’s 25% stake — the dials are made by Hermès. Gems of many colours At launch, three colours of stones are available — red, blue, and purple — and each watch is limited to just eight pieces. The rubies are sourced from Mozambique, the purple sapphires are sourced from Madagascar, and the blue stones co...

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Fratello
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Another May 22, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch

Another Friday, another list. This week, we shift the focus from regatta timers to pilot’s watches. To be more specific, we are looking for five alternatives to the classic IWC Big Pilot’s Watch. Do you remember when IWC’s famous oversized aviation classic was all the rage? In the early 2000s, during the era of big […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — May 21, 2026

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here

Last year, we launched our first Ride to Conquer Cancer collection alongside a two-day, 200km ride for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre. The response was incredible. So, we’re doing it again. The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer is on, with Matt Smith-Johnson once again leading our “Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop” team into the saddle for two days and 200 kilometers. To back the team this year, we’ve expanded the project to three pieces — all designed to support the cause and look good doing it. The 2026 BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph For year two, we wanted to push the design further while keeping what worked the first time around. Mechanically and dimensionally, the watch is unchanged from the 2025 release — same 41mm titanium Venture case, 12.5mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lugs, same 200m of water resistance, screw-down crown, and flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Inside, the Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — quartz accuracy with the snappy mechanical feel of a real chrono pusher. What’s new is the finish. The middle of the case is now done in a saturated pink Cerakote, leaving the rest of the watch’s technical foundation untouched. The watch was once again designed by longtime W&W; collaborator and team rider Matt Smith-Johnson, who explained his thinking: “The Princess Margaret has been using the slogan ‘Carry The Fire’ for the last couple of years. To me, that’s the passion for creating change in the world. As with our t...

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey Hodinkee
Ming May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey

What We Know Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a "Sage Grey" dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand's slowly growing network of retailers. And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken's meetups will know that a few "Speakeasy" editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.  First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers' Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case. On the dial, two small ci...

A New Kind of Bond Watch: Introducing the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Worn & Wound
Omega Chronograph May 21, 2026

A New Kind of Bond Watch: Introducing the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

As I write this article in late May 2026, Bond fans want nothing more than news on the next film in the James Bond franchise. We know it’s going to be directed by Denis Villeneuve, but little else has been announced or decided upon. Namely, we don’t know who is going to play 007 as Daniel Craig has apparently given up his license to kill. So on the spectrum of “new Bond stuff” that fans might be interested in, I’m not sure how many waves the release of a 44mm Omega Chronograph with ties to a new Bond videogame is really going to make, but here we are.  The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light is being pitched as a real life version of the watch the James Bond character uses in the upcoming First Light videogame, which is to be released across multiple platforms next week. First Light is a reimagining of the James Bond origin story, and follows a young Bond through the early days of his career with MI6. The watch in the game is, according to Omega, a tool that appears across several missions, and, in the game, is capable of disturbing electronic equipment and emitting a laser from its strap.  Alas, the real thing doesn’t have complications nearly this unique. It’s modeled visually off of the watch that appears in the game, which incorporates subdials that the player accesses to, I guess, fire lasers from the strap, or something of that nature. So naturally a chronograph was the opportune choice for a watch tie in, and this represents the first ti...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes to the Reverso ‘Or Deco Cocktail’ SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes May 21, 2026

Jaeger-LeCoultre Brings Baguettes to the Reverso ‘Or Deco Cocktail’

Watch-spotting accounts on Instagram were rewarded during the Met Gala broadcast with a sneak peak at two new Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso models worn by actors Finn Wolfhard and Tyriq Withers. Unveiled officially today, the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Or Deco Cocktail brings tasteful gemsetting to the Reverso. Initial thoughts Watch spotting has emerged as a major part of social media culture — a fact that has not escaped brands’ attention. Omega was early to the game, teasing the white-dialled Speedmaster on the wrist of Daniel Craig months before launch, and the brand equipped Delroy Lindo with the new Constellation Observatory at the Academy Awards two weeks before its official unveiling. Finn Wolfhard and Tyriq Withers attend the 2026 Met Gala. Photos by Mike Coppola/Getty Images Now its JLC’s turn — today the brand is launching three gem-set Reversos first seen during the Met Gala earlier this month. Available in 18k white or pink gold, the new editions are elegant on the wrist thanks to their relatively compact footprint — just 45.6 mm tall — and supple gold Milanese bracelets. Each watch is distinguished by bands of baguette-cut stones above and below the dial — replacing the typical Art Deco-style horizontal grooves — but only on the front. Flip the watch over, and it looks like any other Reverso with a solid case back. A cynic might view this as a ploy to keep costs down — to some extent that’s true — but alternatively it gives ...

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant May 21, 2026

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

The 2026 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was easily our largest event in California yet! It was punctuated by amazing brands, cool watches, and numerous activities. However, it was the panels that helped maintain that classic Windup vibe and we had four great ones over the course of the event. Precision Meets Passion: Frederique Constant and the Padel Phenomenon Padel is no longer just a trend—it’s a global commercial powerhouse on track to become a $6 billion industry by 2028. Join Kaitlin Derkach (Marketing Director, Frederique Constant) and Diane Gotua (CCO, Pro Padel League) as they discuss the “lifestyle-first” strategy driving padel’s explosive 50% year-over-year growth in the U.S. and why Frederique Constant is betting on this high-energy, enthusiast-friendly sport. EDC Expo Panel: Building a Quiver vs. Collection Many collectors don’t think in rigid frameworks—they follow curiosity and passion wherever it leads. Others work within self-imposed rules around style, function, or brand. This panel brings together Jim Wirth (Founder/CEO at GiantMouse Knives), Christian Freissler (Co-Founder at Evolve Agency and Creative Director at Shinzo Tamura), and Harrison McCrindle (Head of Government Operations at Marathon Watch Company) for a candid conversation about the art, science, and emotion of collecting across knives, sunglasses, watches, and everyday carry. Together, they’ll explore different philosophies of gear collecting, from logical progressions t...

First Look - From Video Game to Reality, the New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph May 21, 2026

First Look - From Video Game to Reality, the New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

The connection between Omega and movie franchise James Bond 007 is one of the strongest imaginable, dating back to Goldeneye in 1995. Since then, at least one Omega watch has been worn on screen by the world’s most famous secret agent, in every movie released since. And while we don’t yet know who will incarnate […]

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Fratello
Omega Introduces May 21, 2026

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

Omega continues its long-running partnership with James Bond with the new Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light. This time, however, the inspiration does not come from the silver screen. Instead, the watch debuts alongside the upcoming 007 First Light video game from IO Interactive and Amazon MGM Studios. The watch appears in the game […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Hodinkee
Omega s next Bond Seamaster May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

What We Know Today marks the introduction of Omega's next Bond Seamaster. Don't worry, you haven't missed an announcement of Daniel Craig's successor—this new Seamaster Chronograph is an homage to… a video game. Yes, that's right. The commercial success of Omega's involvement in the James Bond franchise has been well documented, so it seems that a line of watches rooted in its connection to a history of fantasy and fiction through film would naturally extend to adjacent properties. This is the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, a remix of the brand's large diving chronograph that appears in the upcoming 007 First Light video game. Interestingly, this is the first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph in the James Bond universe—chronographs have made appearances on Bond in the movies, but this is the first from the Bond-tied line-up since the partnership kicked off in 1995 with GoldenEye. Given that it's largely identical to the current Seamaster 300M Chronographs out there, it should feel quite familiar, despite this version's inspiration tracking back to 3D-rendered models. Coming in at a very large 44mm diameter, 17.2mm height, and 52.8mm lug-to-lug, the 300 meter diver comes in steel with plenty of contrasting black zirconium-oxide ceramic, thanks to the white enamel-filled bezel insert, the chronograph pushers, and the trademark glossy ceramic wave-engraved dial of the modern Seamaster 300M. One of Omega's interesting quirks that I've always loved...

In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop May 21, 2026

In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches

Fashion is a fickle and unpredictable muse, isn’t she? While some predict the demise of the analog watch under pressure from smartwatches, something as unexpected as the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop could imaginably swing the pendulum the other way. Could it trigger a resurgence of ye olde pocket watch? And if so, are […] Visit In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches to read the full article.

Introducing - The Ressence Type 7 Black and Type 7 Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps Monochrome
Ressence Type 7 Black May 21, 2026

Introducing - The Ressence Type 7 Black and Type 7 Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps

What is Ressence if not one of the most recognisable identities in independent watchmaking? From the crownless Type 3 (check out the recent Type 3 Marc Newson) to the oil-filled Type 5, Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens has consistently challenged the conventional relationship between display, ergonomics and mechanical watchmaking, leading to the introduction of the Type […]

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces May 20, 2026

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary

The slow drip of Seiko limited editions to celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary continues with a pair of releases in their Presage collection. The Presage line has long been one of my favorites in the Seiko catalog, and I’ve always felt these watches were a bit slept on compared to sportier watches in the Prospex line. The Presage collection is not just more “dress watch” oriented, but the watches under this banner frequently build on traditional Japanese craft techniques and offer a ton of value. It feels like we’re in a moment where these watches might be prime for a greater appreciation, as enthusiasts are more comfortable than they’ve ever been with smaller cases, exotic dials, and less sport oriented watches in general.  Of the two watches in the Presage line announced recently, the one that sticks in my mind the most is the new HCC007, with an Arita porcelain dial in cobalt blue. We’ve seen a number of Presage releases with porcelain dials over the years, often drawing on the traditional porcelain crafted in Arita for inspiration. This is a great example of the way Seiko incorporates very traditional Japanese craftsmanship into watches that are relatively affordable and don’t skimp at all on aesthetics.  The HCC007’s porcelain dial features a blue glaze in the same color as traditional Arita porcelain, and is the first time this color has been seen in the Presage collection. The dial is constructed with a radiating, sunken center section and an...

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Breguet style numerals While May 20, 2026

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics)

What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece.  Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...

Announcements: You Can Now Reserve The New Watches From Universal Genève Right Here Hodinkee
Breitling May 20, 2026

Announcements: You Can Now Reserve The New Watches From Universal Genève Right Here

If there's one brand that remains near and dear to the heart of Hodinkee, it's Universal Genève. In some ways, my own love of watches may not have flourished the way it did without the incredibly broad range of designs and concepts from Universal in that period. Simple chronographs, calendar chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, oversized Aviator watches, and even convertible watches were all part of the Universal story. It just did SO many things back then, and when it was announced that the House of Brands (the parent company of Breitling, and now Gallet and Universal) would be re-launching it in full force, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. And I think it's fair to say that many felt that way. But Mr. Kern, who led the project along with a great team of young enthusiasts, knew they needed feedback from the long-standing group of collectors to ensure what they made hit all the right notes. So they assembled a group of advisers to give feedback along the way. The group included Mr. Fred Mandelbaum, Mr. Eric Wind, myself, Mr. Alessandro Fanciulli (Mr. A), Mr. Auro Montanari, and many more die-hard Universal lovers. You can see some photos of one of our meet-ups right here, dating back more than two years ago. The advisory board would give notes, and the internal team would process them accordingly – mostly in design details. And in the end, Universal Genève was fully reborn with an astonishingly wide range of watches just last month in Geneva. It includes tw...

First Look - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine (incl. Video) Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance May 20, 2026

First Look - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine (incl. Video)

To our regular readers, Armin Strom needs no introduction. To those new to watchmaking, let’s say that over the past decade, the independent brand has established itself as one of the (very) few manufacturers to truly master resonance in a wristwatch. The Dual Time GMT Resonance has become one of Armin Strom’s signature platforms, evolving […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France Hodinkee
Christopher Ward CEO Mike France May 20, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. Photo courtesy Christopher Ward.  Now Christopher Ward, which recently overhauled its core Sealander collection, is eyeing an ambitious retail expansion plan in its biggest market, the United States. France lays out the economics and business case for the brand's unique retail approach, powered by deep community relationships built with customers over the past two decades. The ambitions aren't insignificant. From a handful of showrooms now, the company could have as many as 25 to 30 locations in the U.S. alone within half a decade, the CEO says.  He sees Christopher Ward as a brand with the potential to reach £250 million in total annual sales, up from about £50 million today. France expects to hit £100 million in annual sales within three years. He's also refreshingly candid about the threat that U.S. tariffs posed to the business and how the levies forced it to change the way its watches are shipped to and distributed in the country. Tariffs were also a significant drag on financial results in 2025, but the brand is forecasting a rebound in 2026 if import dutie...