Hodinkee
Introducing: The Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series
The last of the Biver Carillon Tourbillons get a vintage-inspired facelift.
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Hodinkee
The last of the Biver Carillon Tourbillons get a vintage-inspired facelift.
Worn & Wound
Typsim, the Seattle based brand run by Matt Zinski, has been on my radar since the spring of 2023, when I met Matt at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco. Typsim was not exhibiting at this show, but that’s frankly sometimes my favorite way to meet a brand owner. The young, hungry brands that show up just to be there, and maybe don’t have a fully baked idea quite yet, are sometimes the most interesting ones to track. To be fair, I think Typsim was pretty well baked by the time I found out about them – my lack of knowledge before 2023 can be chalked up to my own blind spots and the simple fact that nobody can keep up with everything. Matt’s background is in architecture, and the stated goal of his brand is to create watches with a clarity of design and thoughtfulness that you’d associate with a well conceived building. The first watch he showed me that day in San Francisco was the diver, called simply the 200M, which honestly felt like a fairly generic (though very well made) vintage inspired dive watch, except for one thing: it makes use of an exclusive lume compound that promises to patina with time. That little detail has been stuck in my head ever since, and I think it unlocks something about the appeal of the brand. Matt is both a genuine watch nerd and a true tinkerer, someone willing to experiment and shoot for details that, realistically, only matter to a very small handful of super nerds, like me, and like Matt, and, I’m sure, like his customers. ...
Time+Tide
Some of the most refreshing white dials to look at on the market today. The post The 14 best white dial watches for a crisp, clean look at every price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
I have known Jérôme Lambert for longer than I want to admit. The man started his watchmaking career right there, at La Grande Maison, or the Watchmaker of Watchmakers. Lambert has already been CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre from 2002 to 2013, and he left his mark on the brand. Strong collections, focus on complications and high-end […]
Fratello
This watch might not be for field-watch purists. But for those who are more open-minded and don’t mind chill frivolities, this icy-cool Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm might be just the watch they’re looking for. It will involve a bit of traveling, though, because this frosty-dial watch is only available in Zermatt. You will have […] Visit Introducing: The Icy-Cool Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Zermatt Exclusive Edition With A Matterhorn Engraving to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1882, Hanhart gained fame as a producer of stopwatches in the early 1920s, followed by Flieger chronographs for pilots in the late 1930s. Today, it is one of the go-to brands for retro pilot watches updated with contemporary materials and movements. The newest release captures the design of a 1960s chronograph that was […]
Time+Tide
For those looking to ball out, here are the watches that give you the best bling for your buck.The post 13 of the best jewellery watches from $400 to $400,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Straight off the bat, I want to be upfront and let you know that these watches have sold out since they were first announced last year. So why do a review? It’s quite simple. The two Vero Open Water 38 models are the perfect opportunity to get a feel for the watches from the young […] Visit Hands-On With The Summery Vero Open Water 38 In Off-White And Emergency Yellow to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Translating as “Stopovers Around the World”, Escale Autour du Monde is Louis Vuitton’s collection of unique and lavish minute repeating pocket watches. The collection now counts two watches: Escale en Amazonie that depicts the heart of the rainforest, while the just-launched Escale Au Pont-Neuf is set just outside Louis Vuttion’s headquarters in Paris. Each timepiece is unique and powered by a new, purpose-built repeating movement with automata, also known as jacquemart, tourbillon, and an eight-day power reserve. Aside from watchmaking complications, the pocket watches also boast elaborate decoration, namely enamel and hand engraving, encapsulating the many crafts and skills possessed by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Louis Vuitton manufacture in Geneva. The LFT AU14.03 Notably, the Escale Autour du Monde is actually Louis Vuitton’s second haute horlogerie pocket watch offering. The collection follows last year’s Asnières-themed pocket watch that was actually powered by a wristwatch repeater movement. The pocket watches of Escale Autour du Monde retain the same 50 mm diameter as the Asnières but with the LFT AU14.03 calibre within was developed from the ground up as a pocket watch movement. Escale en Amazonie (left), and Escale Au Pont-Neuf Initial thoughts Usually, modern pocket watches either rely on wristwatch movements (like the Escale à Asnières from last year) or near-century-old ebauches completed in the modern day. Louis Vuitton didn’t take th...
When the wedding invitations start rolling in and the summer air warms with celebration, there’s a timeless question every groom and wedding party must answer: What gifts can truly mark this moment? For the groom and his closest friends, a Hampden watch does more than tell time-it tells stories, turning a single day’s memory into a lifetime keepsake. A Heritage of Craft and Personal Touch Hampden has earned the distinction of America’s oldest family watch brand, now in its fourth-generation of continuous family ownership. Founded in 1922 and rooted in Chicago’s rich horological past, its relaunch this year to mark a century in business balances classic American watchmaking sensibilities with contemporary Swiss precision. While their dials and movements are built to endure decades of wear, it’s Hampden’s mastery of custom caseback engraving that makes each watch singularly meaningful. From precise monograms to heartfelt messages and even sketches or handwritten notes, Hampden’s engraving technology is among the best in the industry-a nod to its historical reputation for innovation and personalization. The post A Keepsake in Time: The Wedding Watch Gift Guide with Hampden appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
When Tudor released the Pelagos FXD in late 2021 an important element of the brand's heritage was brought to light with it. A rich history of working with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale, was now being tied to a modern creation from Tudor in a new partnership. While the history brings an unusual depth to this watch (no pun intended), it’s the manner in which the Tudor Pelagos FXD has been executed that has made it truly interesting to a modern audience. This wasn’t a throwback design commemorating the past. Rather, this was a function-forward, modern design, built to spec for a niche group of divers in the French Navy. The FXD is a natural evolution of the Pelagos ethos, and its slightly unconventional approach has cemented its place in the hearts of many enthusiasts. Tudor took a slightly different route with the FXD when compared to the existing Pelagos references. The watch was designed with input from the Marine Nationale’s Commando Hubert unit in order to better suit its combat divers' needs for a specific maneuver they employed while traversing underwater. This maneuver would have them swimming segments in a set direction for a set period of time, before adjusting time and direction to tackle subsequent sections. To better assist in this exercise, the fully indexed bezel is bidirectional, and counts down rather than tracks elapsed time. This allows for fast, precise movement (this is a 120-click bezel), and no ambiguity when measuring a pre-set lengt...
Monochrome
Synonymous with luxury fountain pens, Montblanc expanded its portfolio to include watches in 1997, with aesthetics inspired by its famous Meisterstück pens. Intent on demonstrating its watchmaking credentials, Montblanc acquired the legendary Minerva manufacture and released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2007. An unusual chronograph with revolving registers and a fascinating history, the Nicolas Rieussec […]
Worn & Wound
Last week, Hanhart invited 60 guests to their workshop in Gütenbach, located in the Black Forest region of Germany. The schedule for the day was packed, beginning with a factory tour, an 8 kilometers long Black Forest hike, a Hanhart Museum tour, and finally the unveiling of two new 415 ES chronographs. Felix Wallner and Simon Hall, co-managing directors of Hanhart, guided us through the factory and museum tour. The Gütenbach workshop opened in 1934 as the second production facility for Hanhart. It is now their only manufacturing location. It is impressive that this workshop has been in continuous production since 1934. There is a sense of authenticity, and you can almost taste the oil accumulated over eight decades. Simon took us to the first floor where the raw parts are made. Hanhart is in a unique position as a watch company since they manufacture mechanical and quartz stopwatches along with wrist watches. The machines are from the 1960s, but according to Simon, they outperform the modern machines in terms of repairs and total cost of ownership. These machines are used for making pinions, wheels, mainplates, and more. Hanhart manufactures 90% of the parts for their mechanical stop watches in this workshop. Hanhart in the past manufactured more stopwatches than wrist watches. In 2007, they made 20,000 stop watches, but this number decreased significantly as the demand cooled. Simon says that demand is again picking up with annual production of approximately 5,00...
Worn & Wound
Sir David Lionel Salomons (1851–1925), the nephew of the original Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), was a renowned collector of Breguet watches and a significant figure in the world of horology. His passion for precision engineering, combined with his wealth and scholarly interest, made him one of the most prominent collectors of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s masterpieces. The Salomons were a highly respected family in 18th century London society. The family had arrived and settled in Bury St in the City of London from the Netherlands in the early 18th century, attracted by the financial opportunities in the developing British economy. They chose this part of the city because it was both a centre of the finance industry and had an established Jewish community. David Lionel’s Uncle was elected as the Lord Mayor of London in 1855 (below). He was the first Jewish Lord Mayor of London, and known for fighting the Jewish cause in Parliament, but he was also a pioneer of joint stock banking and held prominent positions in other fields. Sir David Salomons (1797–1873), Lord Mayor of London (1855). Solomon Alexander Hart (1806–1881). Guildhall Art Gallery. Image courtesy of City of London Corporation Early Life David Lionel Salomons, was born in Brighton. He was educated for a short period at University College, London, and afterwards at Caius College, Cambridge, where he graduated with natural science honours in 1874. He was a member of the Institution of Electrical Engi...
Monochrome
Batavi is a burgeoning microbrand in the Netherlands and no stranger to fresh designs with models like the Atelier and Architect, the latter being a slick integrated sports watch. Style and accessible pricing really define the brand, and the latest Marina Chronograaf collection is no exception. Four bi-compax chronographs with fun nautical colours are perfect […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Known for their cutting-edge use of lightweight materials and extravagant prices, Richard Mille is arguably the most exclusive watchmaker in the world. Before getting into the most expensive Richard Mille watches, it's good to get a little context on both the brand and the man. While not a watchmaker by trade, Mille and his brand co-founder Dominique Guenat understood the importance of having a vision and making it a reality. An obsession with lightweight materials and design that push the boundaries of what’s possible in a package as small as a wristwatch, along with some excellent marketing (not to mention good luck), have resulted in a brand that is at the pinnacle of the very highest end of the market. Image by Sotheby's Yes, the six- and seven-figure price tags of Richard Mille watches continue to baffle people (we covered why here). Exclusivity is key, especially in a world where the number of billionaires jumped 500% between 2000 and 2024, and the number of ultra-high-net-worth-individuals (UHNWI) with at least $30 million in net investible assets has grown to 626,619 globally. Of course, Richard Mille watches do not fetch record-breaking prices simply due to exclusivity but because of the exhaustive R&D; process that is unlike any other in watchmaking. Here, we will take a look at some of the most expensive Richard Mille watches ever. By the nature of how these things work, just about all of these sales are coming from the auction market, where the already mind-bo...
Monochrome
The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater Tourbillon marks the evolution in the ongoing collaboration between the Swiss indie brand and master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. Building on the success of the previous “Time Eater” regulator models, part of Chaykin’s expressive Wristmons universe, the new model introduces a tourbillon with regulator display to the series […]
Monochrome
How many times have you looked at a new watch and thought you’d do it differently? That’s something all of us, watch enthusiasts, do – yes, even at the office, we have our own ideas about some new releases. How many times have we read in the comment section, “the brand should ask its fanbase”, […]
Fratello
If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware that I adore the Credor Locomotive. Gérald Genta’s remarkable creation is one of those standout watches that most either love or hate. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to the watch’s extravagant looks. I was fortunate enough to spend […] Visit Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Between 1885 and 1920, Elliot Cabot Lee (1854-1920) quietly built one of the world’s largest collections of very complicated watches, but unlike the famous rivals Henry Graves Jr. or James Ward Packard, both of whom favoured Swiss watches (and primarily Patek Philippe), Lee was a devotee of English watchmaking during its heyday. Many remarkable watches that were commissioned by Lee, or passed through his collection, have surfaced over the last few years, such as the J.W. Benson Supercomplication, the Dent Astronomical watch, or even J.P. Morgan’s pocket-planetarium, but with their provenance unknown. Most of Lee’s collection of pocket watches. Image – The National Jeweler 1922 A patrician collector Elliot Cabot Lee was born on April 16th, 1854 in Brookline, Massachusetts. Both of Lee’s parents hailed from Boston Brahmin families and were third cousins. His father, Henry Lee Jr., was a partner at investment bank Lee, Higginson & Company, where Lee also worked, though only briefly. His mother, Elizabeth Perkins Cabot, was the granddaughter of the extremely wealthy Thomas Handasyd Perkins – a slaver turned philanthropist. Lee graduated from Harvard with a law degree and passed the bar, though he seems to have practiced law little if at all. He was well-travelled and well-read, accumulating a notable book collection, according to the Brookline Historical society. Besides his watch collection, Lee also took an interest in the nascent automobile. He built a garage, o...
Fratello
Well, well, well… It appears that Certina isn’t standing still and allowing microbrands to have all the fun with color. The new DS-X GMT collection consists of five new models. One visited us at Fratello HQ, and it marks a real departure for Certina and the Swatch Group in general. Gear up for fun, affordable, […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful New Certina DS-X GMT to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Plus, he discusses how his new role with the brand will mesh with his own namesake creations.
For this latest edition of Tool/Kit we’re recounting the experience of explorer and photographer, Niklas Marc Heinecke, as he traversed the glacier at Vatnajökull, Iceland. With him is a small troop of scientists and the Fortis Marinemaster M-40, together making the trek… “for the sake of knowledge.” We’re honored to share his story. Vatnajökull, Iceland. At 5:00 a.m., somewhere in the heart of Europe’s largest glacier, I peel my hand from the warmth of a down sleeping bag to check my tool watch. The Fortis Marinemaster M-40 ticks relentlessly, a constant in a landscape defined by change. Outside, the silence of fresh snow blankets a frozen world still recovering from the night’s storm. The post Tool/Kit: Niklas Marc Heinecke Takes the Fortis Marinemaster M-40 Across Europe’s Largest Glacier appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
If you’re a returning reader of MONOCHROME or have been watching our video reviews on YouTube, you probably know that we tend to remain fairly neutral. Why? Because we believe you are wise enough to make your own judgement… But today, I’ll be a little biased, to say the least. After all, all the team members are […]
Fratello
Fabian “Spartacus” Cancellara is a Swiss cycling legend who not only won multiple world and Olympic championships but also wore the Tour de France’s yellow leader’s jersey for 29 days and won eight stages. The last time Cancellara raced in France was in 2016, and this year, he returns to the biggest bike race in […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Yellow” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having collaborated on several iterations of the affordable “Time Eater” regulator, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin now close the chapter on the model with something more complicated. The Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin tells the time regulator style – retaining the trademark “eyeball” hours from the Russian independent’s Wristmon series – but inside the “mouth” is a one-minute tourbillon. At CHF19,900, the Time Eater Tourbillon is pricier than the earlier time-only models, but still relatively accessible as such things go, thanks to a no-frills, but Swiss, tourbillon movement inside. Initial thoughts I liked the original Time Eater regulator because the design captures the Konstantin Chaykin style but makes it affordable at about a fifth of the price of a Wristmon. The Time Eater Tourbillon is less affordable, but still priced a little less than a Wristmon, so it is still a value proposition. More broadly, it’s a good thing that Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are ending the Time Eater series. After three time-only regulator launches and this tourbillon, the concept has probably reached an optimal point of just enough and not overexploited. Rolling eye whimsy The Time Eater Tourbillon will be available in two variants: a green-accented model as pictured here that’s limited to 78 pieces, and one in blue that’s limited to 28. The former will be available from Louis Erard and its retailers, while the latter will only be so...
Time+Tide
An idiosyncratic shape and a retro-tastic dial (complete with pinion cap!) make this indie offering a love letter to the 1970s.The post Vintage vibes abound with the Ferro Time Master 70 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Yellow details honour the Tudor Cycling Team's leader Fabian Cancellara's time in the yellow jersey. The post Tudor gears up for the Tour de France with a new limited edition Pelagos FXD Chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
As most of you might know as of now, Tudor is now deeply involved in cycling, not only as one of the sponsors of a team, but actually the brand is the sole sponsor of a racing crew, partnering with cycling legend Fabian Cancellara to create the Tudor Pro Cycling Team. Tudor unveiled a special […]
Monochrome
Without a doubt one of the best value propositions on the market, the Khaki Field Mechanical collection has grown drastically in recent years. Inspired by vintage field watches made by the company – the Hamilton “Hacked” watch – it combines cool military looks with a fair price and undeniable flair. In addition to the base […]
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