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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Jul 23, 2024

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’

Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Manufacture Jul 19, 2024

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture

The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities.  A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...

5 Watches To Start A Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 17, 2024

5 Watches To Start A Collection

Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50.  With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term.  Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment.  Brew Metric The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and de...

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points Fratello
Audemars Piguet releases Jun 28, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points

Another Friday, another Top 5! Last week, we highlighted some of the best recent Audemars Piguet releases. This week, we do not focus on a brand but on a style of watch. It’s a style that Audemars Piguet is no stranger to, by the way. We have recently seen quite a few impressive perpetual calendar […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Perpetual Calendar Watches - A Selection At Different Price Points to read the full article.

Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 27, 2024

Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold

Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts  While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique.  The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...

First Look - A New Rose Gold Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” Monochrome
Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai Jun 26, 2024

First Look - A New Rose Gold Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge”

Abraham-Louis Breguet is often regarded as one of the founding fathers of modern watchmaking. Through numerous inventions and the so-called unmistakable signs, he firmly imprinted his mark on the industry. On this date, June 26th, 1801, A.L. Breguet patented what would become his most famous invention, the tourbillon regulator. As a tribute to the genius […]

Business News: LVMH Acquires Clockmaker L’Epée 1839 SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin  will continue after Jun 26, 2024

Business News: LVMH Acquires Clockmaker L’Epée 1839

Known for its three-dimensional clocks ranging from the Batmobile to a Chanel sculpture, L’Epee 1839 has carved out a niche for itself as the clockmaker to leading watch and luxury brands. Now it becomes part of LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, and TAG Heuer. The acquisition expands the portfolio of the LVMH Watches Division to encompass an entirely new product category that is small but lucrative and also high profile. Clocks are increasingly a must-have offering for major luxury brands. One of L’Epee’s most recent creations was the Louis Vuitton Montgolfière Aéro clock (pictured above). Another of L’Epee’s creations, the Tiffany Taxi. Image – Tiffany & Co. Business as usual LVMH has acquired the parent of L’Epee, Swiza, which also makes clocks under the Swiza and Matthew Norman brands. Arnaud Nicolas, who has been chief executive and creative director of L’Epee since 2009, will continue leading the company. Despite the change in ownership, the clockmaker’s work for other brands, which have included MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin, will continue after the acquisition. However, L’Epee will certainly work with more brands in the LVMH stable, having already created clocks for Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and Hublot. “L’Epée has initiated a number of watchmaking partnerships that we will maintain and develop with Arnaud Nicolas [chief executive and creative director of L’Epee],” says Frédéric Arnault, the chairman of LV...

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber Worn & Wound
Yema Jun 24, 2024

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1526 Jun 19, 2024

In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation

When it comes to perpetual calendars – perhaps the most objectively useful complication – the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual, or LM QP for short, sits neatly between classical architecture and iconoclastic construction. Now almost a decade old having been launched in 2015, the LM QP is a mechanical marvel coming from the mind of Stephen McDonnell. The LM QP’s beauty lies in Mr McDonnell’s rethinking of the perpetual calendar complication while integrating historical concepts. Rethinking the QP A perpetual calendar, or quantième perpétuel (hence “QP”), is a complex and layered mechanism, which makes it a challenging complication to implement in watches. Naturally, not all perpetual calendars are created equal, some being more innovative and others more classical in their construction. The first-ever serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Patek Philippe ref. 1526 that debuted in 1940; the basics of the perpetual calendar mechanism would remain largely unchanged for decades after The issue with classical calendar constructions is their vulnerability to wear and tear, shock, or careless operation by the user. Ironically, the most forward-thinking of perpetual calendar mechanisms try to solve these problems, but sometimes suffer from reliability issues rooted in the radical concepts employed. Mr McDonnell’s construction of the LM QP smartly manages to eliminate traditional weaknesses while avoiding new problems. The result is a reliable and innovati...

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Jun 15, 2024

New: Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph ‘La Gara’ dial

The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph "La Gara Dial" is a classic design and an elegant addition to the Mille Miglia collection. For those who appreciate the romance of the open road and the tick of a classic motorsports chronograph, the "La Gara Dial" is a fitting tribute to the legacy of the Mille Miglia race. Perhaps a nice memorabilia particularly for participants of the race. But for regular watch fans, the watch may appear less competitive in its price category, primarily dragged down by its choice of movement.

First Look - The New Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton Collection Monochrome
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton May 21, 2024

First Look - The New Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton Collection

While its primary focus has been the highly successful PRX collection for a couple of years, last year, Tissot decided to go back to basics by discreetly reinterpreting one of its classics, the Chemin des Tourelles collection. Subtly redesigned, upgraded mechanically with a Powermatic 80 movement and offering new and elegant dial designs, the revamped […]

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph Worn & Wound
Tudor Celebrates May 4, 2024

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph

Tudor has released a new watch in their growing Pelagos FXD collection with the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition.” The new watch borrows a formula from last year’s FXD releases tied to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but this time the focus is on Tudor’s own cycling team, which makes their debut in the Giro d’Italia this weekend. The Giro d’Italia is one of the most important cycling races on the competitive calendar, and this new chronograph has a handful of little touches that might make it particularly appealing to fans of the sport. It strikes many of the same chords, though, as last year’s Alinghi releases, and could point to a new and developing strategy within Tudor in how they work with athletic partners.  At a high level, this is essentially the same watch as the Alinghi FXD chronograph. They share the same 43mm black carbon composite case and run on the same MT5813 chronometer certified movement. The differences, of course, come in the details. The new Cycling Edition watch features a black dial with plenty of red accents, a nod to the colors of the Tudor cycling team. And rather than a rotating dive bezel like the one on last year’s chrono, here we get a fixed 60 minute bezel.  The most interesting change, and I think the one that will have hardcore cyclists most excited, is a tachymeter scale that has been designed with cycling specific intervals in mind. Virtually every other tachymeter scale on modern sports watches is designed to measure th...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Datejust Models - The Hidden Gems Among Gold Rolexes Fratello
Rolex Datejust Models - May 3, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Datejust Models - The Hidden Gems Among Gold Rolexes

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we continue our trip through the universe of pre-owned gold Rolex watches. After last week’s list that highlighted some amazing gold Rolex sports watches, it’s time to focus on the Datejust. If you ask most watch fans about their favorite Datejusts, their answers will be either a stainless […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Datejust Models - The Hidden Gems Among Gold Rolexes to read the full article.

Last Minute Mother’s Day Gift Ideas Worn & Wound
May 1, 2024

Last Minute Mother’s Day Gift Ideas

Mother’s Day (May 12th, 2024) may be less than two weeks away, but it’s not too late to find the perfect meaningful gift for Mom. If you haven’t already, check out our Mother’s Day Gift Guide 2024. Or if you simply want more ideas, you’re in the right place. Here are four more picks we think would make great gifts to show your appreciation for all that our mothers do for us every day. Being a mom often means wearing many hats, and the variety of watches here are designed to handle anything life throws at them. The Windup Watch Shop Team wishes you and yours a very happy Mother’s Day! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available to answer any questions you have. You can schedule a consultation here. Mother’s Day (May 12th, 2024) may be less than two weeks away, but it’s not too late to find the perfect meaningful gift for Mom. If you haven’t already, check out our Mother’s Day Gift Guide 2024. Or if you simply want more ideas, you’re in the right place. Here are four more picks we think would make great gifts to show your appreciation for all that our mothers do for us every day. Being a mom often means wearing many hats, and the variety of watches here are designed to handle anything life throws at them. The Windup Watch Shop Team wishes you and yours a very happy Mother’s Day! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available to answer any questions you have. You can schedule a consultation here. The post Last Minute Mother’s Day Gift Idea...

Kith and TAG Heuer Debut a Collection of Ten New Formula 1 Limited Editions Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Debut May 1, 2024

Kith and TAG Heuer Debut a Collection of Ten New Formula 1 Limited Editions

For a certain generation (OK, it might be a micro-generation) of watch collector, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 looms impossibly large. The colorful quartz watches, made from a combination of steel and fiberglass, debuted in 1986 at a time of great upheaval in the Swiss watch industry. This the first watch produced under the TAG Heuer banner, and a meeting of Heuer’s racing heritage and their new partner’s focus on emerging technologies in watchmaking. The watches were a sensation, and an affordable entrypoint for many into a rabbit hole that, as we all know, goes very deep indeed. Original F1 watches have become incredibly collectible over the years, and a new collaboration brings back the spirit of those watches in a way that should be incredibly satisfying to enthusiasts who grew up on the F1.  Launching today, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith brings back the iconic Formula 1 design language in a series of limited edition releases. Ronnie Fieg, Kith’s founder, is a noted fan of the Formula 1 and a longtime collector, and the bold color and strong design codes of the original F1 overlap with much of what Kith is working to accomplish throughout their apparel and sneaker collections.  As with any update of a much loved watch from the past, it’s interesting to note what has been changed, and what has been kept the same. For the 2024 edition of the Formula 1, materials have been upgraded throughout (the new watches get a sapphire crystal rather than plastic, and the strap...

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! Time+Tide
Nomos has Apr 28, 2024

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer!

Nomos Glahshütte has let loose with the colour wheel for its latest pieces, celebrating 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte with 31 colourful versions of the Tangente 38. Each colourway is limited to 175 pieces and focuses on one of Nomos Glashütte’s best-selling models. This time, the Tangente 38 is fitted with a hand-wound DUW4101 … ContinuedThe post You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artem Updates And Improves Its Classic Sailcloth Watch Strap With Pin Buckle Fratello
Apr 21, 2024

Artem Updates And Improves Its Classic Sailcloth Watch Strap With Pin Buckle

I appreciate a manufacturer that listens and responds to customer feedback to evolve its products. It seems obvious to most that this should be the case. But you may be surprised how many companies mindlessly ignore criticism to focus on churning out the same stock. Thankfully, Artem continually seeks improvement to maintain its customer base […] Visit Artem Updates And Improves Its Classic Sailcloth Watch Strap With Pin Buckle to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Every Cybertruck Recalled, Matty Matheson’s New Brand, and a New Camera Strap from Peak Design Worn & Wound
Apr 20, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Every Cybertruck Recalled, Matty Matheson’s New Brand, and a New Camera Strap from Peak Design

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Matty Matheson’s Pantry Staples If you’re a fan of the FX series “The Bear,” Matty Matheson needs no introduction. He plays Fak, the heavily tattooed handyman on the series, but his most significant contribution to the series might actually be behind the scenes. Matheson is a chef, and serves as a consultant on the show in addition to his acting duties, ensuring that the kitchen scenes and culinary creations depicted feel authentic. Now he’s launched his own brand, the Matheson Food Company, which will produce all kinds of simple pantry staples (sauces, salad dressings, boxed mac & cheese) with branding that draws heavily on our collective nostalgia for classic brands that were part of his childhood. This piece in Creative Review digs into the new brand and what makes it distinct in the food scene.  The First Trailer for M. Night Shyamalan’s Trap It’s possible that the trailer for Trap, the new film from M. Night Shyamalan coming this summer, gives too much away. In the event you want to be completely surprised, I won’t describe it here. But it’s also possible that th...

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option To Black Bay Lineup Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option Apr 9, 2024

Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option To Black Bay Lineup

At this point, I've gotta say that I'm still glad the 41mm Tudor Black Bay lineup is still kicking around. Last year we got versions with updates to the bracelet and METAS certification. This is still an important collection for Tudor and it shows. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024 Tudor has announced the addition of a new monochrome colorway. If you're the kind of person that simply can't stand faux vintage gilt and color tones, this might be the one for you-if you also like the larger size. The best part is that we still get the Master Chronometer movement, which is starting to look like more of a gold standard across several Tudor models.

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph Fratello
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Apr 9, 2024

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph

You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Gerard’s Picks From Yema, Ligure, And… Fratello
Yema Apr 8, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Gerard’s Picks From Yema, Ligure, And…

I’m glad to realize that choosing these three watches was difficult for me. For less than €1,000, there’s a boatload of options. Even though I’m the last one to contribute to this sub-€1K series - there were seven colleagues and their lists before me - I didn’t pick any of the watches that had already […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Gerard’s Picks From Yema, Ligure, And… to read the full article.

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Apr 3, 2024

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for

Since it hit the market less than a decade ago, the Rado Captain Cook has rapidly built an avid following among watch enthusiasts while also casting a brighter spotlight on its parent brand, which had previously been known more for avant-garde, fashion-oriented timepieces than vintage-look, sport-focused ones. Eyeing one of these retro-stylish and accessibly priced divers as your next watch purchase? Here is what you need to know about the Rado Captain Cook collection. The Brand Behind the Captain: Rado History Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements but eventually found success as a watch producer in 1957 with the launch of the Rado brand (the name means “wheel” in Esperanto) and its first timepiece, the Rado Golden Horse, one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. The company followed it up in 1962 with the futuristic DiaStar model (below) - touted as “the world’s first scratch-proof watch” and recognized as the first commercially available “ceramic watch” - which was groundbreaking in its use of hardmetal and sapphire glass for increased scratch-resistance.  The DiaStar ushered in Rado’s modern credo of exploring the most avant-garde, high-tech materials for ideal comfort and durability in its wat...

Tudor Surprises with a Pink Black Bay Chrono Worn & Wound
Tudor Surprises Mar 28, 2024

Tudor Surprises with a Pink Black Bay Chrono

A surprise release from Tudor this morning, less than two weeks ahead of Watches & Wonders. The Black Bay Chrono “Pink” is a very limited and very pink iteration of the brand’s Black Bay Chronograph, and coincides with the recent announcement of Tudor’s partnership with Inter Miami CF, the Major League Soccer Club owned in part by David Beckham (who is, of course, a longtime Tudor ambassador). Pink is the color most associated with the club, hence the pink dial for this release.  On the surface, what we have here is quite simple: it’s a pink version of the Black Bay Chronograph that we’ve become familiar with over the last few years. Like the other watches in the collection, it’s a panda style dial, with black subdials complementing the pink main dial, framed by a black tachymeter bezel. The specs of this chronograph are exactly the same as other Black Bay Chronos, with a steel case measuring 41mm and water resistance to 200 meters.  Tudor fans (and watch enthusiasts with great memories) will immediately link this watch to another, somewhat lesser known watch in Tudor’s collection, the Black Bay Chrono Dark. This watch was also made for a professional sports team (the New Zealand All Blacks, a rugby team) and has been made in very limited quantities since its unveiling (which was also a surprise) in 2019. The point here is that Tudor just does this sometimes, dropping a surprise chronograph outside the bounds of a big trade show, in association with one o...

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Having announced Mar 25, 2024

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin

Having announced a partnership with The Metropolitan Museum of Art last year, Vacheron Constantin has just launched Masterpiece on Your Wrist, a programme that offers the opportunity to commission timepieces featuring enamel dials that replicate select artworks from the Met’s collection in a wristwatch created by Les Cabinotiers, the watchmaker’s workshop for custom and bespoke watches. A client could commission Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses as a minute repeater for instance. Naturally, clients who commission such a timepiece will receive more than a watch. The process includes a private tour of the Met and a visit to Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva manufacture. Wheat Field with Cypresses Initial thoughts Geneva’s important watchmakers, namely Vacheron Constantin and its crosstown rival, have long reproduced important works of art on wrist (or pocket) watch dials. In the late 20th century, Suzanne Rohr famously replicated various classical European artworks in miniature enamel. And more recently, Anita Porchet recreated Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring on the monumental Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie commissioned by a noted Asian collector. Masterpiece on Your Wrist is a continuation and formalisation of that historical practice that also allows privileged access to one of the world’s most noted museums. For an art lover, this is quite the opportunity. Bridge over a Pond of Water Lilies by Claude Monet Granted, most of the artworks in th...

Marathon Introduces a New Steel Navigator with an Automatic Movement Worn & Wound
Baltic Mar 5, 2024

Marathon Introduces a New Steel Navigator with an Automatic Movement

If you want immediate Watch Nerd cred with something coming in at around the $1,000 price point or less, there are a handful of options for any budding (or experienced) watch enthusiast. Seiko, of course. G-SHOCK, too. And you can have your pick from many great microbrands, including Lorier, Baltic, and Brew, and too many others to name. If your tastes veer toward the tactical, however, and you happen to be a lume connoisseur, Marathon is (somehow) still under the radar, makes a high quality, well designed watch that just about anyone who has been around the horological block will appreciate. Their newest release, an automatic version of their 41mm Steel Navigator, takes a classic Marathon silhouette and gives it an automatic movement.  Marathon has been manufacturing timing instruments of all kinds for various militatires since the 1940s, and the Navigator case, with its familiar asymmetrical shape, will scream “issued military watch” to many collectors. The original Steel Navigator traces its roots to the 1980s, when it was developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base for use by pilots. Everything about the design is function first – this is a pure tool watch if there ever was one. It’s got a 12 hour bezel for foolproof tracking of a second time zone, a two-tiered hour track with a 12 and interior 24 hour scale, a 41mm case crafted from stainless steel without a polished surface in sight, and, maybe most notably, an array of tritium tubes on the dial and h...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 2 - Featuring IWC, Patek Philippe, Omega, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Omega Mar 1, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 2 - Featuring IWC, Patek Philippe, Omega, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This time, we will continue where we left off last week and present even more great pre-owned options. In this mini-series, we want to highlight some less obvious picks from different brands. Some of these are watches you may never have heard of, while others might be good reminders of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 2 - Featuring IWC, Patek Philippe, Omega, And More to read the full article.

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...