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Balance Wheel

The oscillating wheel at the heart of every mechanical watch.

Pre-Basel 2015: Nomos Metro 38 Datum Revolution
Nomos Metro 38 Datum Nomos Feb 23, 2015

Pre-Basel 2015: Nomos Metro 38 Datum

Nomos is changing the rules by offering Glashütte-made watches with manufacture movements, complete with the brand’s in-house “Swing System” balance, balance spring, escape wheel and  lever, at prices that are beyond reasonable. At Baselworld, Nomos will unveil its latest bespoke creation, the Metro 38 Datum. The new model follows last year’s original Metro, which has […]

The A. Lange & Söhne Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon “Handwerkskunst” Revolution
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 15, 2013

The A. Lange & Söhne Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon “Handwerkskunst”

This is the second watch by A. Lange & Söhne to receive the “handwerkskunst” designation –the first was the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst, which featured an eleborate tremblage engraved dial. The Perpetual Tourbillon version uses the tremblage engraving as a background for additional engraving in the foliate motif Lange enthusiasts will recognize as characteristic of Lange balance […]

Automatic Attraction: Corum Debuts New Golden Bridge Automatic At BaselWorld 2013 Revolution
Corum Debuts New Golden Bridge May 13, 2013

Automatic Attraction: Corum Debuts New Golden Bridge Automatic At BaselWorld 2013

Something old, something new –that’s the theme that runs through much of watchmaking.  Lest we forget, the basic technology of watchmaking consists of a mainspring barrel, gears, a lever escapement, and a temperature compensated balance controlled by a balance spring.  All of those elements –every one –were in place by 1750, boys and girls, when […]

Introducing: TAG Heuer Updates The Aquaracer Solargraph Professional And Debuts New 28mm Models Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Updates May 26, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer Updates The Aquaracer Solargraph Professional And Debuts New 28mm Models

What We Know The Aquaracer, first introduced in 2004, is the tough tool watch in the Tag Heuer lineup, and the Solargraph is one of the most recent extensions of the Aquaracer range, bringing quartz timekeeping and fuss-free solar power to the brand's generalist dive watch. Just in time for Summer (in this hemisphere), Tag Heuer has launched an extension of the Solargraph, offering new colorways and the option of a new, smaller case size.  In 2022, Tag Heuer began using La Joux-Perret's new solar-powered movements in some models that it labeled 'Solargraph' as part of an exclusive deal with the Swiss movement maker that saw the brand's owner, LVMH, later take a minority stake in LJP. Today, Tag Heuer is updating the Aquaracer line with four new 40mm models (spanning steel or titanium), as well as four 28mm-diameter steel-case versions for the first time. All the new models are powered by the Solargraph movement, underscoring the brand's commitment to new solar tech, which is also used in its relaunched Formula 1 watches. The new 40mm Aquaracer comes in both steel and titanium models and features an updated bezel with 'rider' tabs and grain-textured elements, as well as a sharper, finely brushed case construction with added fluted elements at 9 o'clock to better balance the crown guards at 6 o'clock. TAG says the handset has also been updated, and the bracelets are now easily interchangeable, with quick-release spring bar tabs, allowing for easy swapping to rubber or othe...

Introducing – Akhor Launches Poinçon de Genève-Certified Watches and the “A Two Beats Choice” Collection Monochrome
May 25, 2026

Introducing – Akhor Launches Poinçon de Genève-Certified Watches and the “A Two Beats Choice” Collection

Akhor is an independent watchmaking brand that made its debut less than a year ago at Geneva Watch Days 2025. The brand introduced itself with a particularly intriguing collection and concept built around the idea of “time in balance”, rooted in a highly original vision of time itself. At its core lies a proprietary movement. […]

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complications May 25, 2026

Highlights: Patek Philippe Complications at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season goes east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As usual, Phillips has put together a very strong lineup, and, as is often the case at watch auctions, Patek Philippe watches — both vintage and modern — have an outsized share of the catalogue. Lot 940 – Patek Philippe Bailey Banks & Biddle Triple Complication Patek Philippe produced this watch for Philadelphian jeweler Bailey Banks & Biddle around 1895, and it bears only the retailer’s name on the dial, which was not unusual. While the company came to a rather undignified end in the 21st century, it was once a manufacturing jeweller, medalist, and major Patek Philippe retailer. The dial is in rather rough condition by the standards of enamel dials, and while the dial may the most important thing to many wristwatch collectors, here the triple-complication movement is what matters. It features a minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar — which is presumably instantaneous. Note the lack of a minutes counter for the chronograph. While taken for granted on modern chronographs, most Patek Philippe triple complications did without it. In fact, the most common upgrade path for triple complications was a rattrapante, not minutes counter. The counterweighted pallet fork is also worth mention — this refinement disappeared as the Swiss lever matured and watchmakers realised a lighter pallet fork was better than a balanced one. The movement is fully functional, ...

First Look – The Marco Tedeschi MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours, The Evolution of a Watch once Made by Kross Studio Monochrome
May 22, 2026

First Look – The Marco Tedeschi MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours, The Evolution of a Watch once Made by Kross Studio

Kross Studio has never been about conventional watchmaking, whether through its openworked designs or collaborations tied to everything from Star Wars to Batman. Last year, the Geneva-based brand introduced the MT1 Tourbillon, a manually wound tourbillon with a smooth lug-less case, crown-free construction, and fully openworked movement design. It was also a watch that carried […]

Introducing – The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions Monochrome
MB&F; May 22, 2026

Introducing – The Gem-Set Trilogy of MB&F; LM Perpetual Chromatic Editions

Teaming up with independent watchmaker wizard Stephen McDonnell in 2015 catapulted MB&F; into the rarefied domain of haute horlogerie. McDonnell’s extraordinary, award-winning LM Perpetual marked a before-and-after in the genre. A fully integrated 581-component calibre, the complication is shown dial-side beneath the suspended balance wheel of the Legacy Machine family. A mesmerising display of mechanical […]

First Look – A Fusion of History and Modernity, the Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph Monochrome
Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph Louis May 8, 2026

First Look – A Fusion of History and Modernity, the Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph

Louis Moinet (1768-1853) wanted an accurate instrument to track celestial motions and built the Compteur de Tierces in 1815-1816. Endowed with a start, stop and reset function and a balance wheel beating at an impressive high frequency of 30Hz, his novel stopwatch could time events to the 60th of a second. Considered one of the precursors […]

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva SJX Watches
May 4, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Highlights from Geneva

During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like AHCI and Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town. Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a 1 Hz balance, and Franc Vila, who seems to be entering a new era of creativity. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours Apr 29, 2026

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature

As Watches & Wonders drew to a close, Patek Philippe opened its annual exhibition of Rare Handcrafts at its salon on Rue du Rhône. It was a peaceful escape from the hustle of the Palexpo, and the perfect setting to view several dozen pieces from the new collection, ranging from Dome Clocks to wristwatches and pocket watches. The exhibition is open to the public until May 9th. Attendance is free, but visitors must register in advance online. Dome Clocks Among the prevailing themes of this year’s collection, the power of nature featured prominently. The Dome Clock ref. 20202N-001 “Magma” is the perfect example. The organic composition is almost shocking in its simplicity and minimal palette of just five colours of transparent enamel — and just seven more used for miniature painting. The volcanic depiction is undeniably violent in a way that creates a pleasing tension with the controlled techniques employed to create it, including silver leaf paillonné and a needle technique for creating the lifelike look of the volcanic rock, outlined with more than 23 g of gold wire. Of course, fired enamel has a lot in common with magma. In short, this choice of molten medium contributes to the authenticity of the work. The glowing lava is mirrored on the dial with 12 large baguette-cut sapphire hour markers totaling about 3 cts. Like the other Dome Clocks featured, the Magma is powered by an electrically wound 17’’’ pocket watch movement that offers a look into the firm...

First Look – Czapek Revisits its Antarctique Sector, Revelation and Tourbillon in Titanium and Cosmic Blue Monochrome
Czapek Revisits Apr 10, 2026

First Look – Czapek Revisits its Antarctique Sector, Revelation and Tourbillon in Titanium and Cosmic Blue

Czapek launched the Antarctique collection in 2020 as its first luxury sports watch built around the in-house calibre SXH5, marking a major step in the brand’s modern revival. Striking a refined balance between luxury and everyday wearability, Czapek unveils titanium interpretations of three emblematic references: Dark Sector,  Révélation and the Tourbillon. Lighter, stronger and more […]

Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream Fratello
Mar 10, 2026

Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! We’re back (sort of) after more travels, and this week, we discuss the fallout that happens once a formerly unloved brand becomes popular. Call it sour grapes or wanting to keep something to oneself, but feel free to listen to our thoughts on the subject. Enjoy […] Visit Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream to read the full article.

Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore” Fratello
Rolex Sorry Sir We Don’t Mar 4, 2026

Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore”

“Sorry, sir, we don’t serve Pepsi here anymore.” I have heard this before. Last time, I was presented with a disgusting hipster alternative, locally sourced and seemingly made of organic wastewater from small-batch sewage systems housing free-range rats. That’s what it tasted like to me, anyway. “Come on, no Pepsi or Coke?” We need at […] Visit Rolex: “Sorry, Sir, We Don’t Serve Pepsi Here Anymore” to read the full article.